How to fix zoom creep on EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens?

[cr316892]

I just bought a used EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens.

I got a really good deal because I was able to bid down the price as there was dust in the front barrel and because the lens exhibited noticeable zoom creep. Other than that, the lens is in perfect optical and cosmetic condition.

Basically, I intend to clean the dust out by following this video:

Canon 17-55

and I figure that if I am already going to be opening up the lens, I can try to fix the zoom creep as well.

I tried finding information about this particular lens, but I was not able to find much that was helpful.

Does anyone know how to fix the zoom creep on this lens, or can you point me to a resource somewhere? I am comfortable ordering parts if I need to.

P.S. I know there are lensband/rubberband solutions, but at this moment, I'm not interested in those.

 

[Fleetie]

I use black electrical insulating tape on the barrel of my 24-105L. It's still working fine; I'm pleased with the fix.

 

[Don Haines]

Use the rubber band from a head of broccoli, place it over the edge of the zoom ring, problem solved.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

Other than home brew methods, you will need Canon to replace some parts. I've not heard of zoom creep on this lens, something is not right.

 

[cr316892]

I really do appreciate these suggestions, but I'm trying to figure out how to repair the lens itself.

Basically, the first step is figuring out where the friction is actually created. I figure it's one of three ways:

1. I slipped the zoom ring off, and I see these three screws with brass collars around them. Are these collars what provide the friction?

2. Is it something like a strip of felt tape like for this Nikon lens:

http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00I/00I1XU-32348784.pdf

3. Or is it something else like an adjustable tension screw or internal tension spring?

I'd like to find out for sure so I can decide how much I want to disassemble this lens.

Thanks

 

[cr316892]

Other than home brew methods, you will need Canon to replace some parts. I've not heard of zoom creep on this lens, something is not right.

Yikes, I hope not. Everything else seems to be fine, no signs of abuse.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

The nylon collars on the screws guide the zoom unit. They sometimes crack and the piece falls in the focus mechanism which can cause focus issues or even jamb the mechanism. Usually, it just makes for a rough zoom or for one side being oof.

The lenses I've worked on had a friction liner which wears out after years of hard use. I've never has to open my 17-55.

You would likely need to replace the part with the liner on it. I've tried replacing the friction band, but adding a carefully wrapped layer of black pvc tape worked for me.

That fix means you cannot leave it in the sun, or adhesive may run into other parts of the lens. I only did it on a old lens that was not worth a proper fix.

 

[paul13walnut5]

I just bought a used EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM lens.

I got a really good deal because I was able to bid down the price as there was dust in the front barrel and because the lens exhibited noticeable zoom creep.

Too late now, but generally when it comes to used, if something ain't right and it's a private sale (i.e. no warranty) then walk away. You might think you got a bargain, then vendor might think they got some decent bucks back for a paper-weight.

Unless you've repaired lenses before and have the ability to recalibrate you risk making a smallish problem into a biggish problem..

Use some of the buck you saved to let a professional look at it... or you could be chucking what you've already spent away.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I watched the video just now, and have a couple of comments.

1. While the person marked the position of the body to the table, he did not mark the position of the lens carrier. The lens MUST be inserted in exactly the same position as it was before, or the image will be decentered. Mark the lens carrier to body!!

2. The person did not mention that you need a proper screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw heads, they look like Phillips, but they are JIS and a JIS screwdriver with magnetic tip can keep you from damaging things.

3. Use a plastic or wood tool to remove the ring on the front of the lens. Its just asking for trouble to use a metal screwdriver. A toothpick should work.

 

[cr316892]

The nylon collars on the screws guide the zoom unit. They sometimes crack and the piece falls in the focus mechanism which can cause focus issues or even jamb the mechanism. Usually, it just makes for a rough zoom or for one side being oof.

The collars are actually made of brass, so they are not worn down or anything.

I wasn't sure if these three collars are designed to be the points where friction is created. I have read various things online.

If they are, then it would probably be easy to come up with a fix.

For example, there seems to be a little bit of slack between the brass collars and the rotating plastic slots. If I stick a piece of paper to fill the slack space, the amount of friction created seems almost perfect. It would be trivial to come up with a permanent solution to create friction along this slot.

The lenses I've worked on had a friction liner which wears out after years of hard use. I've never has to open my 17-55.

You would likely need to replace the part with the liner on it. I've tried replacing the friction band, but adding a carefully wrapped layer of black pvc tape worked for me.

That fix means you cannot leave it in the sun, or adhesive may run into other parts of the lens. I only did it on a old lens that was not worth a proper fix.

So there is definitely a friction band inside? I have cut a strip of paper and stuck it down between the main barrel and focus ring and tried to feel around for a friction band, and I haven't been able to feel anything. If there is one, then it is completely worn down.

 

[cr316892]

I watched the video just now, and have a couple of comments.

1. While the person marked the position of the body to the table, he did not mark the position of the lens carrier. The lens MUST be inserted in exactly the same position as it was before, or the image will be decentered. Mark the lens carrier to body!!

2. The person did not mention that you need a proper screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw heads, they look like Phillips, but they are JIS and a JIS screwdriver with magnetic tip can keep you from damaging things.

3. Use a plastic or wood tool to remove the ring on the front of the lens. Its just asking for trouble to use a metal screwdriver. A toothpick should work.

I appreciate all of your help and suggestions.

These were more or less the same instructions from the LensRentals blog earlier this year:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/05/a-few-easy-lens-dustings

I just did the dust clean out, and it literally took me less than five minutes.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I watched the video just now, and have a couple of comments.

1. While the person marked the position of the body to the table, he did not mark the position of the lens carrier. The lens MUST be inserted in exactly the same position as it was before, or the image will be decentered. Mark the lens carrier to body!!

2. The person did not mention that you need a proper screwdriver to avoid damaging the screw heads, they look like Phillips, but they are JIS and a JIS screwdriver with magnetic tip can keep you from damaging things.

3. Use a plastic or wood tool to remove the ring on the front of the lens. Its just asking for trouble to use a metal screwdriver. A toothpick should work.

I appreciate all of your help and suggestions.

These were more or less the same instructions from the LensRentals blog earlier this year:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/05/a-few-easy-lens-dustings

I just did the dust clean out, and it literally took me less than five minutes.

Yup, its easy when things go right. The biggest issue is using Phillips screwdrivers on a tough to remove screw. If the head is damaged, its big trouble. People do use Phillips, and it usually works, but a proper screwdriver is cheap, so if you plan on doing it regularly, get the right tools.