lcd display on 6d

[Marsu42]

I am not sure I understand the advantage of displaying on the LCD, a RAW file unprocessed. What would you see?

You would see the real clipping, the blinking areas on the current cameras are only for jpeg and don't show how much highlights can be recovered from raw. Magic Lantern's raw zebras/histogram & auto-ettr is very helpful here, but even with that you cannot see the clipping *after* shooing because ml isn't able to re-read the raw from the card.

 

[Wildfire]

i would still rather like the official output settings that the lcd image is made up of! its much more than just picture style.

it must be out there somewhere?

It is the picture style and nothing more. The picture style, however, has complex jpeg compression algorithms that may or may not be available publicly outside of Canon.

The best way to get the RAW file to replicate the JPEG displayed on the LCD screen during playback is to process your RAWs with Canon Digital Photo Professional software, which came free with your camera.

 

[CarlTN]

I am not sure I understand the advantage of displaying on the LCD, a RAW file unprocessed. What would you see?

You would see the real clipping, the blinking areas on the current cameras are only for jpeg and don't show how much highlights can be recovered from raw. Magic Lantern's raw zebras/histogram & auto-ettr is very helpful here, but even with that you cannot see the clipping *after* shooing because ml isn't able to re-read the raw from the card.

Interesting, excellent point...

 

[Loswr]

I am not sure I understand the advantage of displaying on the LCD, a RAW file unprocessed. What would you see?

You would see the real clipping, the blinking areas on the current cameras are only for jpeg and don't show how much highlights can be recovered from raw. Magic Lantern's raw zebras/histogram & auto-ettr is very helpful here, but even with that you cannot see the clipping *after* shooing because ml isn't able to re-read the raw from the card.

There are tricks (neutral or custom picture style and custom/shifted WB) that you can use to get the histogram and highlight clip warning 'blinkies' to more closely approximate what you can pull from the RAW file. The actual JPG preview image won't look very good, though...so don't go showing it to people.

 

[Marsu42]

There are tricks (neutral or custom picture style and custom/shifted WB) that you can use to get the histogram and highlight clip warning 'blinkies' to more closely approximate what you can pull from the RAW file.

Interesting, never heard of this - any details available on how to achieve it exactly? I shoot raw anyway and it would be handy for flipping through the shots and look for real overexposure.

 

[Loswr]

There are tricks (neutral or custom picture style and custom/shifted WB) that you can use to get the histogram and highlight clip warning 'blinkies' to more closely approximate what you can pull from the RAW file.

Interesting, never heard of this - any details available on how to achieve it exactly? I shoot raw anyway and it would be handy for flipping through the shots and look for real overexposure.

Here's a start, and a Google search for "canon uniwb" will pull up plenty of reading material.

 

[Marsu42]

Here's a start, and a Google search for "canon uniwb" will pull up plenty of reading material.

Thanks! Strictly speaking the Magic Lantern raw histogram/zebras/peaking in the picture review are better, but they also draw a lot of battery power, so I'll have a look at this.

 

[J.R.]

There are tricks (neutral or custom picture style and custom/shifted WB) that you can use to get the histogram and highlight clip warning 'blinkies' to more closely approximate what you can pull from the RAW file.

Interesting, never heard of this - any details available on how to achieve it exactly? I shoot raw anyway and it would be handy for flipping through the shots and look for real overexposure.

Here's a start, and a Google search for "canon uniwb" will pull up plenty of reading material.

Thanks for the link. Looks promising.

 

[BozillaNZ]

Yes it is UniWB. It basically give the camera WB adjust coefficients of 1.0, 1.0, 1.0, which means WB is NOT applied at all.

Then you use flattest tonal curve by choosing Neutral picture style, then dial down the contrast to lowest, sharpness to lowest (to remove sharpening halo)

Then the histogram will be a lot better resembling what the RAW records.

Of course the output JPG will be garbage, all green and stuff. But if you enable highlight blink, you gets RAW blinks too!

There will still be a bit of discrepancies between UniWB histogram/blinkies and the real RAW data but at least it's a lot closer.

Oh, while you are at it, don't forget to shoot a white card in the scene to restore WB in post.