POLL: Do you need 1/8000s shutter speed?

The 1/8ks shutter relates to my personal shooting style:


  • Total voters
    161
  • Poll closed .
Some say a body with "just" 1/4ks is unusable and not a real man's camera. That made me set up this poll because I wonder how the general CR crowd feels about this.

My personal experience is that the missing 1/8ks hurts most for bracketing w/o a nd filter. Otherwise the stopping power isn't as significantly different unless shooting rockets in flight and it cannot be "fast enough". When in doubt I'd rather opt for one stop lower iso, esp. on crop.

What's your take? Exercise your right to vote now or forever hold your peace!

Rocket_Launcher_squirrel_by_cjdeck1.jpg
 
Probably the most common time I have missed having 1/8000th is when shooting with the fast primes out in daylight. Moving from the 5D3 to the 6D, I have definitely missed it. Yes, there are filter work arounds, but I would much rather just have something that doesn't require an extra step in order for me to work around.

Also, since the middle of December when Fuji released the firmware update for the x-t1, I have been using the electronic shutter which goes all the way up to 1/32000th and can say wholeheartedly that I love being able to shoot that fast. I have been using the 56/1.2 wide open all throughout the middle of the day and have taken a lot of shots that are between 1/13000th and 1/32000th during said time period.
 
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Marsu42 said:
Some say a body with "just" 1/4ks is unusable and not a real man's camera. That made me set up this poll because I wonder how the general CR crowd feels about this.

My personal experience is that the missing 1/8ks hurts most for bracketing w/o a nd filter. Otherwise the stopping power isn't as significantly different unless shooting rockets in flight and it cannot be "fast enough". When in doubt I'd rather opt for one stop lower iso, esp. on crop.

What's your take? Exercise your right to vote now or forever hold your peace!

Rocket_Launcher_squirrel_by_cjdeck1.jpg

Yes, Sir, Dear Friend Marsu42.
Yes, I need SS = 1/8,000 Sec. one time in every 12 months to keep my Canon 1DS running, Before Her Die. to shoot the drop of water.
Plus I use 1/8,000 Sec. SS. to shoot my EF 85 MM , F/ 1.2 L MK II at F= 1.2 in the bright sun shine with out use ND 8 Filter for get the total Blur of background for Super Portrait Photo, Such as My Son Practice Taekwando, by Jumping in to the AIR and KICK 15 times per Second. Yes, Just One Photo, before he grown up.
Nice to talk to you, Sir.
Surapon
 

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Do I use 1/8000? Yes, probably a few dozen times a year in varied situations. It's just one of those tools you have in the bag that you may not use that often, but nice to have for those odd occasions. It doesn't weigh anything and doesn't take up any space. What's not to like?

Most often I'll use 1/8000 when using HSS in bright sunlight and needing a wide aperture. It's very rarely used to stop action in my work, though others will value it for this.

I regard the existence of 1/8000 as giving the freedom to use wide apertures in bright sunlight.

-pw
 
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1/8000s is quite useful to me in order to shoot with fast primes on sunny days. I would even be happy to get a faster shutter speed sometimes.

According to a quick lightroom EXIF search it corresponds to 2.5% of my shoots. That's more than once every 12 months on my side.
 
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Sports in bright light with a 2.8 lens, actually looking through the catalog any bright light narrow dof situation, I have hundreds of 1/8000, actually I have many at 1/10,000, 1/12,800 and 1/16,000 because the 1D APS-H sensor went to 1/16,000, but it did bottom out iso at 200.

The last time I shot the tennis at Wimbledon, in 2005, I think the vast majority were at 1/8,000 and above. But I have travel shots, birding, surfing, yacht racing, dog trials and airshows, as well as HSS strobist playing all at and above 1/8,000.
 
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More than 95% I stay below the 1/2000s. But sometime it's nice to have it for a bit fun. I tried to 'freeze' the rotating blade of a jet engine at cruise speed, but I think the 1/8000s (7D) was not enough here :(.
 

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Stopping power? A camera and a gun can both "shoot" people, but I've only ever heard the term "stopping power" in reference to the latter. More specifically in reference to ammunition and various calibers.

I assume you meant freezing action?
 
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I need it for stopping power in bright light even without a very wide aperture. What I mean I shot a hockey game outdoors in bright sunlight, and part of the arena was in the shade. I wanted to keep my shutters above 1000 to stop movement, my aperture as low as possible to fade out some annoying backgrounds and my ISO at 100 to keep my dynamic range up to deal with the glaring snow and black uniforms. Between 1/1000 and 1/8000 only gives 3 stops of difference and I found myself having to continually adjust my aperture to compensate for the variety of exposures needed. I found myself wishing for 1/16000 second exposure that day. I'm sure a better photographer could have found a better solution but that's just my 2 cents
 
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Hi,
I like it for some BIF, when these are unpredictable and/or super fast with their wings (like hummingbird hawk-moth !) and also for fast "primes" ... not L primes yet (just updated some glass to go with 7DII but not all yet), but even the 50 1.8 II can be tricky in nice sunny summer afternoon for portraits (i specially like portraits in front of cascades / water-fountains with pearly sparkling bokeh ...). Probably per year about 100-200 uses on average 5k shots.
 
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