Question About Weather Sealed Bodies.

[ReggieABrown]

I need some advice. I don't want winter to hinder me from taking pictures outside. So....

How do you guys protect your gear when you're going from the freezing temperature outside to the warm temperature inside your homes?

And I know in these situations, the bodies that are weather sealed will build up condensation on the outside of the camera body, but does condensation find its way inside of the weather sealed bodies as well?

 

[fish_shooter]

I have seen condensation as you describe when using non-L lenses on 1D bodies in Alaska, mainly on lenses. For this reason I prefer to use L lenses whenever possible.
Merry Christmas!
Tom

 

[Khalai]

I have seen condensation as you describe when using non-L lenses on 1D bodies in Alaska, mainly on lenses. For this reason I prefer to use L lenses whenever possible.
Merry Christmas!
Tom

L-lenses or not, you still risk condensation when changing environment quicky. The humidity will find its way not only as a haze on the lens elements but also in the internals of the body (short circuit is coming to town).

It's always best to turn the camera off, put it in the camera bag, but more preferrably in some zipper bag and let the temperature equalize.

 

[dgatwood]

L-lenses or not, you still risk condensation when changing environment quicky. The humidity will find its way not only as a haze on the lens elements but also in the internals of the body (short circuit is coming to town).

That's what conformal coatings are for. I'd expect the newer Canon bodies to have one.

 

[fish_shooter]

I have seen condensation as you describe when using non-L lenses on 1D bodies in Alaska, mainly on lenses. For this reason I prefer to use L lenses whenever possible.
Merry Christmas!
Tom

L-lenses or not, you still risk condensation when changing environment quicky. The humidity will find its way not only as a haze on the lens elements but also in the internals of the body (short circuit is coming to town).

It's always best to turn the camera off, put it in the camera bag, but more preferrably in some zipper bag and let the temperature equalize.

I try to only swap out parts while indoors while in dry heat. This way the camera interior is relatively dry so even when cooled will not lead to condensation.

I do a lot of underwater photography in water that is just above freezing temp. even when the air temp. is much greater (summer). Housing takes a couple of hours to warm up when brought indoors. Have not had an issue with condensation except when working on housing outdoors (which I avoid as much as possible).

Merry Christmas!

 

[Loswr]

I try to only swap out parts while indoors while in dry heat. This way the camera interior is relatively dry so even when cooled will not lead to condensation.

Bodies and lenses – even weather sealed ones – are not hermetically sealed. Weather sealing keeps out dust and moisture, not air. Moisture is liquid water, 'humidity' is (a measure of) gaseous water dissolved in air. That means individual water molecules floating around in the air, and those water molecules are smaller than the nitrogen molecules that make up most of the air. So if there's humidity in the air, it'll be in your gear. If the temp warms up too fast across the dew point, it will condense inside.

In winter, the issue is usually going from cold, dry outside to warm, less dry inside. In that case, it's not the water vapor inside the gear, but the external water vapor that condenses on the surface of the cold gear. In that case, taking a plastic 'ziploc' bag out so it's cold, then putting the gear in it before bringing it in, so the condensation forms on the surface of the bag. Allow time for the gear to warm up - using it, especially an extending zoom (even a 'weather sealed' one) will draw the warm, more humid air into the cold camera/lens interior, where the water vapor will then condense.

 

[ReggieABrown]

Thank you guys for the feedback! I learn so much from the photographers here at canonrumors.

 

[tphillips63]

I try to only swap out parts while indoors while in dry heat. This way the camera interior is relatively dry so even when cooled will not lead to condensation.

Bodies and lenses – even weather sealed ones – are not hermetically sealed. Weather sealing keeps out dust and moisture, not air. Moisture is liquid water, 'humidity' is (a measure of) gaseous water dissolved in air. That means individual water molecules floating around in the air, and those water molecules are smaller than the nitrogen molecules that make up most of the air. So if there's humidity in the air, it'll be in your gear. If the temp warms up too fast across the dew point, it will condense inside.

In winter, the issue is usually going from cold, dry outside to warm, less dry inside. In that case, it's not the water vapor inside the gear, but the external water vapor that condenses on the surface of the cold gear. In that case, taking a plastic 'ziploc' bag out so it's cold, then putting the gear in it before bringing it in, so the condensation forms on the surface of the bag. Allow time for the gear to warm up - using it, especially an extending zoom (even a 'weather sealed' one) will draw the warm, more humid air into the cold camera/lens interior, where the water vapor will then condense.

I think I have heard of this before but, I guess I never got it until your explanation! ???
Thanks and great tip.