Shooting an event soon -- could use some advice

[RustyTheGeek]

Great to hear ahsanford! I'm glad you are considering options while staying relaxed. Go look at my site and you'll see that I end up shooting a LOT of kids. (Boys scouts, school stuff, etc.) And I'm often in cramped quarters and strange light so my 16-35 gets a lot of use and every once in a while I bring out the Fish-Eye when I think about it.

Also, FYI, I use the heck out of my SunPak RD2000 with a Sto-Fen diffuser. It stays on my camera and I use it 90% of the time. I have 3 of them and one is gelled with diffuser, one is plain with diffuser and one is plain without diffuser (mostly for outdoor sun). It works great on the 5D3 & 70D but the ETTL doesn't work on the 6D. http://www.amazon.com/SUNPAK-RD2000C-Sunpak-Camera-Flash/dp/B001GS6Q9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409941442&sr=8-1&keywords=rd2000 (See my review by RL)

http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/nasa2012#h6cdc731 (Inside the Mission Control simulators, etc with FishEye)
http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/galveston2012 (Inside the ship with FishEye)
http://rustythegeek.zenfolio.com/alliance-hires#h3e272ad2 (Inside the Control Tower with FishEye)

Just remember - get insurance shots from time to time and then have fun the rest of the time. Experiment. Go outside your comfort zone. You only need one really cool edgy shot to work and that might even be after a lot of tweaking in post!

Use this event as an excuse to buy (or rent) the 15mm Fish-Eye! You'll have a BLAST with it!

 

[RustyTheGeek]

Another approach indoors where it's dark might be to use Tv and let your images go a bit dark if necc to preserve focus. (Then bump back up in post.) Dial in Tv of 1/30 - 1/50 or so depending on your skill level in low light and your ability to hold the camera still. (Obviously you will need to shoot multiple shots to try and get a keeper.) With your lens having a f/4 limit, your camera will be struggling to get the exposure and might be dipping pretty low on shutter speed in Av mode. You might even have to (shudder!) go to 6400!

Regardless, focus can't be fixed. Everything else can be improved a certain amount. Shooting in the dark is always a challenge. Which is why I still use my 28 f/1.8 prime quite a bit for campfire shots, etc. In your case, maybe that 40mm f/2.8 pancake will suffice. (Didn't I see that in your list?)

 

[RustyTheGeek]

Something else to consider that is NON-Photography related.

NO ONE-ON-ONE WITH KIDS. In other words, never be alone with a kid. Always have another adult(s) or a group of other kids around you or within eye-sight.

This is a core standard YPT (Youth Protection Training) rule that protects both the adult and the child.

It would be a good idea to watch this YPT training video. It explains good standard practices no matter where you are. School, church, scouts, public places, etc.
http://www.scouting.org/Training/youthprotection.aspx

 

[sagittariansrock]

Hey gang,

I wasn't sure where to put this, sorry.

I am volunteering at a kids event this weekend and when they heard I was a photographer (full disclosure: natural light enthusiast only), they asked me to bring my rig and shoot the event. I only have sketchy details, but here's what I know:

• It will be a mixture of indoor and outdoor shooting. Outdoors will be violently bright and indoors will be cavelike darkness (it's actually an aquarium).
• There will be thousands of people there over the course of the event, so it will be some form of organized chaos in a walkaround 'capture what I can' sort of scenario.
• The event will last 4-6 hours and I need to carry all my gear over that time -- no 100% safe bases of operations are available, and my car will be too far away.

So here's what I was planning on bringing:

• 5D3
• 600EX-RT with a Sto-Fen Omni Bounce
• 16-35 F/4L IS
• 24-70 F/4L IS
• 70-200 F/2.8L IS II
• Filters: CPL for outdoor shooting and UV for indoor shooting and handsy kid fingerprint insurance . The CPL might also be useful to shoot the exhibits through the glass if need be.
• I may also bring some rain covers in case they need me to shoot near an open water habitat -- I'm waiting to hear back on that.

Questions:

1) Did I miss anything obvious? (Note that I lack any (even basic) off-camera lighting tools like a bracket or ETTL cable. So I'm hotshoe-ing the 600EX-RT or bust.)

2) I need to be able to carry everything around with me, so I don't want to go too heavy. The 70-200 is heavy and likely will be overkill given how many people will be packed into this place. Should I leave it out altogether to save weight, or would you bring it?

3) Should I even bother with a gray card to back out the interior lighting? I think I'll be moving around to so many different spots that I won't have the time to use it.

Any advice is appreciated.

- A

FYI, this is the primary reason I got the 135L. If I need a longer lens (and in situations like this I do), and the 70-200 is a bit much to carry, the 135L is the perfect substitute if not better in certain situations.
A grey card is a good idea. I found it tedious at first, but then it becomes a habit. A single shot at the card every time light, or location changes. Saves you a lot of PP work.
An aquarium works only with bare-bulb type flash IMO, which is perfect for your Stofen setup.

 

[sagittariansrock]

.

3. Limit the number of shots you take -- I'd say don't take more than 200 all day. If they are well thought out and well executed, you'll save yourself a lot of time in post process. You do not have to shoot pictures of everyone there or of everything that happens. They seemed to have asked for a representational sample that will show what the event looked like. No one will look at more than a couple dozen pictures of the event, no matter how invested or interested. I wouldn't give them more than 50 finished pictures, at most.

I tend to shoot more and be selective before PP.

This is to one's taste, but I agree with Dylan. I shoot JPG+RAW, I shoot more than I need, I use the JPGs to rate shots and only PP the keepers in RAW. Speed on the front end and power on the back end -- that combination has served me well.

I agree with distant.star's take on limiting the number of finished pictures. Hell, I'm doing this for free!

- A

I feel taking too many shots affects my composition and overall quality. I get fewer keepers when shooting more, than when I think twice before taking a shot.
I am sure it depends on the person involved.

 

[ahsanford]

Which is why I still use my 28 f/1.8 prime quite a bit for campfire shots, etc. In your case, maybe that 40mm f/2.8 pancake will suffice. (Didn't I see that in your list?)

I have some quicker primes, like a 50/1.4 and the 100L macro, but I'm leery to sign up for a fixed FL in such a dynamic environment.

- A

 

[ahsanford]

FYI, this is the primary reason I got the 135L. If I need a longer lens (and in situations like this I do), and the 70-200 is a bit much to carry, the 135L is the perfect substitute if not better in certain situations.

Yeah, I have the 100L instead for similar reasons (also for macro). It's a great substitute for portraiture.

But again, I'm a little leery to slap in a prime and miss something happening, esp. in a crowded place where the old prime lens 'move your feet' axiom becomes harder to pull off.

- A

 

[RustyTheGeek]

Which is why I still use my 28 f/1.8 prime quite a bit for campfire shots, etc. In your case, maybe that 40mm f/2.8 pancake will suffice. (Didn't I see that in your list?)

I have some quicker primes, like a 50/1.4 and the 100L macro, but I'm leery to sign up for a fixed FL in such a dynamic environment.

- A

I understand your point. I totally agree. Keep in mind however that a wider prime like my fast 28mm will capture a lot and I can always crop a bit. (Plus, I can human zoom IN. It's harder to human zoom OUT esp in tight spaces.)

 

[RustyTheGeek]

I feel taking too many shots affects my composition and overall quality. I get fewer keepers when shooting more, than when I think twice before taking a shot.
I am sure it depends on the person involved.

I would tend to agree but only to a point. I shoot more than some, less than others. My bigger concern, esp with flash, is the distraction I cause the event itself with flash or shutter noise. But when I restrict myself too much, I find I miss good shots. It's a balancing act for sure!

 

[RustyTheGeek]

Hmm. I used to work harder with using a gray card and/or other device to peg a custom WB at the venue. Hmm. Maybe I'll start doing that again. It's not that hard, I just got out of the habit. (You know, LAZY!)

The gray card doesn't solve everything though. If you introduce flash or other light of your own, a gray card won't help you when the WB is off too much from the ambient light color. I get this a lot in swim venues and other gyms. The mercury vapor lights above are bright and directional enough to show up in all the pictures but if any other light is present like strong daylight from windows, fill flash or whatever, the people end up with green or yellow caps and capes. It's pretty hard to avoid if the people are located below one of those light sources.

I have used an Expodisc alternative before. But you could make a pretty good DIY Expodisc with a white coffee filter!
https://www.flickr.com/groups/diyphotographynet/discuss/72157603931692288/

 

[pwp]

Cameras & Lenses: Always two bodies.... .... Speedlight 600ex-rt on each camera

Two cameras with speedlights attached hanging from straps, in a crowd of kids/parents?

That sounds like a good way to get equipment busted. One bad bump and one of those speedlights can snap off. I think that is a bit over-kill for this type of shoot. Especially for someone doing this type of shoot for the first time.

That's where affinity kicks in. My reading was that the conversation had evolved somewhat. My long post was pitched more towards general events projects as opposed to the OP's specific job. Anyway, this is a kids event at an aquarium, not a riot. I work around large numbers of children a lot, you judge each situation on its merits. Equipment is in far greater danger in a room full of drunk adults, revellers or wedding guests.

-pw

 

[sagittariansrock]

I feel taking too many shots affects my composition and overall quality. I get fewer keepers when shooting more, than when I think twice before taking a shot.
I am sure it depends on the person involved.

I would tend to agree but only to a point. I shoot more than some, less than others. My bigger concern, esp with flash, is the distraction I cause the event itself with flash or shutter noise. But when I restrict myself too much, I find I miss good shots. It's a balancing act for sure!

Yup, it's a bell-shaped curve

 

[Valvebounce]

Hi PWP.
I would agree with this comment in general, however I have witnessed very different levels of supervision of child events, from the perfectly (perhaps too perfectly, they should enjoy it) regimented, too aw they are just kids they don't mean any harm, they are only playing, etc whilst a near riot occurs.
This seems to be very much a country and region specific attitude thing. As you say, judge the individual situation before you put any gear in harms way!

Have fun, try stuff, learn a little, good luck, have fun!

Cheers, Graham.

Anyway, this is a kids event at an aquarium, not a riot. I work around large numbers of children a lot, you judge each situation on its merits. Equipment is in far greater danger in a room full of drunk adults, revellers or wedding guests.

-pw

 

[eninja]

I just covered my 2nd event in my life. This was a big learning opportunity. And my first time to use a zoom lens on such a scale. I use my 6D and rented EF 24-70 F2.8L II.

On my first event, I learned that I must not be afraid to set higher ISO to prioritize shutter speed. And slowing down is better.

I made a checklist before pressing the shutter. (Camera in Manual mode and Speedlite in ETTL 0 to +2/3)

1. Is subject stationary or moving or approaching
a) if stationary - use back button, shutter speed = > fl
b) if moving - use back button, shutter speed = 160
c) if approaching - use shutter button and switch to AI, and shutter speed = 160, use center point AF
2. Set the composition (choosing focal length) and selecting focus point
3. Check shutter speed > fl
4. Setting Apperture
a) Subject is near - Av > 5.6
b) Subject is medium far - Av > 4
c) Subject is far - Av < 2.8
5. Set IS0 such that metering is between -1 .. 0
6. Focus and take the shot