elflord said:
One thing I'd suggest -- avoid the temptation to cover every focal length at the expense of everything else. There's a big advantage to faster glass, the mistake beginners usually make is that they get some 18-270mm zoom at the expense of everything else.
Also, start with at least one prime in your kit even if it's just the 50mm f/1.8. Especially if your zooms are all slow variable aperture zooms, a fast prime will really help for portrait shots.
I'd recommend one general purpose like the 15-85, 17-55 f/2.8. or the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8. Would skip long tele to begin with unless you have a specific application in mind.
I think this is the best advice in this thread so far. EXTREMELY solid!
Based on the information you've provided and the amount of money you've decided to spend (based on the camera and lenses you've mentioned above) - I'd snag the 60D and 15-85. Someone above said the image quality of the 15-85 isn't great. That's COMPLETE rubbish. The IQ for the 15-85 is absolutely FANTASTIC!
If you can manage it, I'd add the 55-250 - an EXCELLENT choice if you're not going to shoot long distance shots very often - I use mine about 3-5 times per year and that's it. In fact, I just visited a zoo a few weeks ago with my 15-85 and only wished I had my 55-250 TWICE. 85mm is longer than you'd think! If you're going to need a telephoto lens fairly often (sports or zoos every weekend or even once a month, etc.) then an "L" zoom (like the 70-300L or any of the 70-200L's for instance) will cost approximately 4-14x as much as the 55-250 but the IQ can't be beat.
For low light photos (and a price range of $120-460 each), I'd consider the 50mm 1.8 or 1.4 (depending on budget) and/or the 28mm 1.8 or 35mm 2.0. Or, you could forgo the 50mm/28mm/35mm group and stick with the 15-85 zoom and add an external flash like the 430EXII ($280). Using flash properly is an art in and of itself, IMO.
As for your concern over whether to buy EF lenses instead of EF-S lenses. Personally, it's not an issue for me. Here's how I see it. The crop sensor market is FAR larger than the FF market. Used equipment, especially higher quality equipment, doesn't depreciate much. So, higher quality EF-S lenses will be easy to sell for many many years (ie, 17-55 and 15-85) and for very little loss. Finally, the crop sensor affects the angle of view. So, let's say you snag a 70-200mm L lens and LOVE that focal length/angle of view on your 60D. When you put that same lens on a FF, the angle of view is going to be DRASTICALLY different. On the 60D, the focal length equivalent will be 112-320 but on the FF it'll be 70-200. There's a big difference between 70 & 110 and 200 & 320. Essentially, if you want that same field of view that the 70-200 provided on your 60D, you'd need a 112-320 (if such a lens existed - the 70-300L would be the logical choice). So, you're STILL going to need to sell your old equipment and buy something new. Unless you have a TON of lenses and/or keep your crop body as a second camera.
And finally, as a hobbyist, there's probably very little chance that you'll upgrade to FF. It's possible - just unlikely.
So, as others said. Buy for today! Don't even factor in the FF argument.
In terms of post-processing software. Many will recommend Lightroom, Aperture, Photoshop Elements, and even various plug-ins. Many people overlook the bundled software - Digital Photo Professional (aka: DPP). DPP is VERY good. It may not be equal to some of the other programs in it's overall power and ability, but given the fact that as of now, you have no idea what you're doing - it's already MUCH more than you're capable of utilizing. It's very easy to use and it's very comprehensive. And... it's VERY good (as I said before). Some folks doling out recommendations will start processing in one program, move the same image to another and process it further, then move it to another program (or utilize plug-ins) to process further!!! As someone who is out taking pictures of their family, trips, etc., I can assure you - that will NOT be your workflow. You'll be a one-program-and-done kind of guy because by using DPP (for FREE) you'll already be 95% of where a $500 3-suite process would get you. AND, you won't be trying to sell your images like they will.
As with bodies and lenses, only upgrade when you feel that your tools are limiting you. I've been using DPP for 3 years now and I still don't see many opportunities for me to upgrade.
Above, someone mentioned the ability of one of the programs to correct distortion. This would be someone who hasn't bothered to use DPP. DPP KNOWS your camera and lenses (if you buy Canon lenses) and can correct lens aberrations (such as distortion and vignetting - it even does some noise reduction and chromatic aberration corrections too) for you with the click of a button. It knows where the flaws in your Canon equipment is and how to correct it because CANON made it
I think WAAAAAY too many people foolishly overlook DPP to the detriment of their bank account. They probably do this because DPP is the only manufacturer-provided post-processing software that's worth installing. Nikon and Sony's software is garbage - so many assume Canon's is too. It's not!
Hope some of this helped!
