Teardown: Canon EOS 5D Mark IV

tr573 said:
privatebydesign said:
move AF point to subject --> press shutter. That's easy peasy.

Move AF point to subject -> take meter reading -> intuit how far up or down from medium gray a combination of hazel iris, black pupil, white eye, auburn eyebrow and light olive skin is -> adjust EC -> press shutter

Yes, exactly my point, which is why I quoted ashford and linked to that quote of his, they are not my words!
 
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privatebydesign said:
tr573 said:
privatebydesign said:
move AF point to subject --> press shutter. That's easy peasy.

Move AF point to subject -> take meter reading -> intuit how far up or down from medium gray a combination of hazel iris, black pupil, white eye, auburn eyebrow and light olive skin is -> adjust EC -> press shutter

Yes, exactly my point, which is why I quoted ashford and linked to that quote of his, they are not my words!

Oh I know it wasn't you saying it.
 
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Going back to my old Canon F1 days I would aim at a few locations and mentally determine how the readings should contribute to my choice of bulls-eye on, above or below. I presume now on manual I'd be doing the same using the center spot focus area. Why wouldn't it be handy to be able to do that using the spot that you're using for focusing instead of having to relate back to the center of the frame?

Don't be harsh, I'm just a beginner! ;)

Jack
 
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tr573 said:
privatebydesign said:
tr573 said:
privatebydesign said:
move AF point to subject --> press shutter. That's easy peasy.

Move AF point to subject -> take meter reading -> intuit how far up or down from medium gray a combination of hazel iris, black pupil, white eye, auburn eyebrow and light olive skin is -> adjust EC -> press shutter

Yes, exactly my point, which is why I quoted ashford and linked to that quote of his, they are not my words!

Oh I know it wasn't you saying it.

Another interesting test you can do to see how AF linked spot metering would have worked.

Reduce your image down to 3,000 x 2,000 px turn it B&W then make a 435 pixel diameter circle over your point of focus, apply a heavy gaussian blur to that circle and then put your info dropper in it. The value should be close to 101,101,101, (12.5%) not 119,119,119, camera meters meter for around 12.7% not 18% (18% is mid tone).

435 pixel diameter gives you a 2.5% metering circle, 276 gives you a 1% metering spot. Oh, and there isn't a camera with AF point linked spot metering made that actually indicates where that spot covers once you move if off center.
 
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candc said:
Lots of air/empty space in the camera. They could have made it smaller. Choose to keep same form factor instead.

Wish they would have downsized a bit. I really like the size of the 6d, I think its just right.

Funny, after shooting with the 1D4 for a couple months I concluded my 6D is too small (with a 300 2.8 lens of course).

Jack
 
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Jack Douglas said:
Going back to my old Canon F1 days I would aim at a few locations and mentally determine how the readings should contribute to my choice of bulls-eye on, above or below. I presume now on manual I'd be doing the same using the center spot focus area. Why wouldn't it be handy to be able to do that using the spot that you're using for focusing instead of having to relate back to the center of the frame?

Don't be harsh, I'm just a beginner! ;)

Jack

Jack,

I think the main point is that spot metering is not practical to be used in auto modes, my post in the other thread illustrates that. If it isn't practical to use in auto modes (99.9% of the time) then it is a take your time to get it right kind of tool, in that case the limitation to center point only doesn't seem like that much of a limitation. As you say the real strength and traditional use of spot metering has been to take multiple readings across the scene to make sure you get the tonality where you want it and digital cameras not only show you where this individual readings are they also give you an average, well the 1 series cameras do.
 
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Jack Douglas said:
candc said:
Lots of air/empty space in the camera. They could have made it smaller. Choose to keep same form factor instead.

Wish they would have downsized a bit. I really like the size of the 6d, I think its just right.

Funny, after shooting with the 1D4 for a couple months I concluded my 6D is too small (with a 300 2.8 lens of course).

Jack

You get used to them all I guess. Lots of 5d, 7d users used to that size. Whenever I use the a7rii for a while the 7dii seems like a shoebox.
 
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privatebydesign said:
Jack Douglas said:
Going back to my old Canon F1 days I would aim at a few locations and mentally determine how the readings should contribute to my choice of bulls-eye on, above or below. I presume now on manual I'd be doing the same using the center spot focus area. Why wouldn't it be handy to be able to do that using the spot that you're using for focusing instead of having to relate back to the center of the frame?

Don't be harsh, I'm just a beginner! ;)

Jack

Jack,

I think the main point is that spot metering is not practical to be used in auto modes, my post in the other thread illustrates that. If it isn't practical to use in auto modes (99.9% of the time) then it is a take your time to get it right kind of tool, in that case the limitation to center point only doesn't seem like that much of a limitation. As you say the real strength and traditional use of spot metering has been to take multiple readings across the scene to make sure you get the tonality where you want it and digital cameras not only show you where this individual readings are they also give you an average, well the 1 series cameras do.

I've downgraded my desire for that but the lighted AF point is still something I'd sure like and it's not on the 5D4, or so they say. I'm still not clear exactly how the red 5D4 AF point works. Someone have the camera now and can explain?

Jack
 
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Jack Douglas said:
privatebydesign said:
Jack Douglas said:
Going back to my old Canon F1 days I would aim at a few locations and mentally determine how the readings should contribute to my choice of bulls-eye on, above or below. I presume now on manual I'd be doing the same using the center spot focus area. Why wouldn't it be handy to be able to do that using the spot that you're using for focusing instead of having to relate back to the center of the frame?

Don't be harsh, I'm just a beginner! ;)

Jack

Jack,

I think the main point is that spot metering is not practical to be used in auto modes, my post in the other thread illustrates that. If it isn't practical to use in auto modes (99.9% of the time) then it is a take your time to get it right kind of tool, in that case the limitation to center point only doesn't seem like that much of a limitation. As you say the real strength and traditional use of spot metering has been to take multiple readings across the scene to make sure you get the tonality where you want it and digital cameras not only show you where this individual readings are they also give you an average, well the 1 series cameras do.

I've downgraded my desire for that but the lighted AF point is still something I'd sure like and it's not on the 5D4, or so they say. I'm still not clear exactly how the red 5D4 AF point works. Someone have the camera now and can explain?

Jack

I assume it works the same way as the 5ds/7d2 , and if so that means the af points are black, but a red light shines over them also (in the dark, or always if you turn it on). It's a different look from the old red eos points
 
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CanonFanBoy said:
The folks at lens rentals sure do a lot of work they don't have to do for the rest of us so that we can see what goes in to making these products. hats off to them. This is smart business on their part and is above and beyond what could ever be expected from a business of this type. Thank you lens rentals.

+100

for once I totally agree with you! :)
 
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David in NC said:
Anybody else struck by the humor in that the body cap is still on?

I mean...with the camera cut in half we still need to keep dust off the sensor. ;D

Nah, he's put the body cap on 'cause he's kept all the little screws safe by tossing them in there. Sticking the body cap on means he won't lose any. ;)

Welcome to CR. Fasten your seatbelt and ensure your seat in an upright position. Keep your hands inside the ride at all times and remember not to feed any trolls.
 
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3kramd5 said:
FramerMCB said:
Chaitanya said:
Plastic gears for mirror assembly not a good sign.

my best guess is that this was done for weight as well as, and probably mostly, to reduce mirror movement vibrations...

I don't think it's for weight as much as for inertia. The smaller gears, including the worm gear, are metallic in other models.

Plastic sounds bad, nylon (or whatever) sounds better and in fact may have better wear characteristics and of course less inertia as mentioned.

Jack
 
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Jack Douglas said:
3kramd5 said:
FramerMCB said:
Chaitanya said:
Plastic gears for mirror assembly not a good sign.

my best guess is that this was done for weight as well as, and probably mostly, to reduce mirror movement vibrations...

I don't think it's for weight as much as for inertia. The smaller gears, including the worm gear, are metallic in other models.

Plastic sounds bad, nylon (or whatever) sounds better and in fact may have better wear characteristics and of course less inertia as mentioned.

Jack

Nylon sounds good, or polyamide, but not plastic.
Carbon fiber sounds good, but not carbon fiber reinforced plastic.

I often wonder where "plastic" got such a stigma
 
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