UWA: Tokina vs Rokinon

Nov 5, 2013
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I've been thinking of getting an ultra wide angle lens for sometime, and so far reviews from this forum have pushed me towards either:
i) Tokina 16-28mm f2.8
ii) Rokinon 14mm f2.8
What do you guys think about that? I understand that both have cons, the biggest for Tokina being the inability to put on a filter, while for Rokinon it would be that there is no autofocus; as far as IQ is concern both are amazing. However Tokina's zoom might not help much since it's merely a 16-28mm, where in landscape most people would settle only for the widest. Anyone to give me advise on which one to choose? Or even recommend a third lens? The 16-35 f2.8 L USM II doesn't seem to be receiving as much praises as these two lenses, hence the exclusion from here.
 
Don't think that you only need a wide angle for landscapes. I'm fairly sure my Tokina wide angle (12-24 f4) has been used more for indoor photos than landscapes.

Plus I've used the 200mm end of my 70-200 for landscapes. I've seen photos of people who used 400mm or maybe more for landscapes.

Have you considered the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8? I haven't used it myself, but I am very tempted and have read good things about it.
Of the two you listed, I'd pick the Tokina, I prefer to work with zooms than a prime.
 
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dhr90 said:
Don't think that you only need a wide angle for landscapes. I'm fairly sure my Tokina wide angle (12-24 f4) has been used more for indoor photos than landscapes.

Plus I've used the 200mm end of my 70-200 for landscapes. I've seen photos of people who used 400mm or maybe more for landscapes.

Have you considered the Sigma 18-35mm f1.8? I haven't used it myself, but I am very tempted and have read good things about it.
Of the two you listed, I'd pick the Tokina, I prefer to work with zooms than a prime.
Well, I have other lenses for telephoto, but I would really want something wide to complete my arsenal of lens. (We all do don't we? ::)) I understand that Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 only works for APS-C, which would be incompatible for 6D, the camera I will most likely get in the near future, hence I'm avoiding it.
 
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cliffwang said:
I vote for Rokinon 14mm. Couple simple reasons here.
- AF is not important since it's my landscapes only lens.
- Cost
- IQ good enough
- I prefer 14mm than 16mm.

By the way, you cannot put a filter on Rokinon 14mm as well.
Thanks for telling me that. I didn't know about it. Hmm, so Rokinon 14mm will be a landscape exclusive lens then? Interesting. What do you do for wide angle required situations then?
 
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I have Sigma 14/2.8

Can't decide if I like or hate it. My friend has one too and he loves it.

For me I don't like IQ below F8, so normal landscape it's fine as you shoot higher anyway. Also it has terrible mustache distortion, and I haven't found correction file to fix it in post. I hear you can make it yourself but I don't know how. This is shooting with FF, both problems are less when using crop.

I might sell this and get the 12-24 or 16-35 or 16-28 or or...
 
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tpatana said:
I have Sigma 14/2.8

Can't decide if I like or hate it. My friend has one too and he loves it.

For me I don't like IQ below F8, so normal landscape it's fine as you shoot higher anyway. Also it has terrible mustache distortion, and I haven't found correction file to fix it in post. I hear you can make it yourself but I don't know how. This is shooting with FF, both problems are less when using crop.

I might sell this and get the 12-24 or 16-35 or 16-28 or or...
Is the Sigma similar to Rokinon's 14mm f2.8?
 
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Not sure if you are using FF or not but I have the Samyang 16mm 2.0 for my crop sensor. It's pretty sweet, 77mm filter thread too and you can use it for night photography. Manual focus and aperture which forces you to slow down a bit.
 
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distant.star said:
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You don't say why you want an ultrawide or what you intend to do with it. If it's just something to have in your "arsenal," get the cheapest one and be done with it.

If you have specific uses for such a tool, match the best lens to those jobs.
Definitely would want it for landscaping and portrait even at some sense. There are situations when a ultra-wide angle can get shots that are out of reach of other lens. I do intend to get the cheapest one, however it does again boil down to value vs IQ obtained.
 
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I have the Samyang (Rokinon) 14mm on 6D. This is a great lens, with excellent sharpness and very low price. However, you have to keep in mind that 14mm on FF is VERY wide! I am very happy to have it and I have never regretted buying it, but I can't say it's my most used lens since it is often just too wide. It really depends on how wide you want to go; the 16-28mm FOV is much more practical, but the 14mm is much more unique!
Also, do you have other wide angle lens? For instance, if you already have a 24mm, I would recommend more easily the 14mm than if your widest lens is a 50mm!
 
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bholliman said:
I just purchased a Rokinon 14mm 2.8 that arrived two days ago. I'm still learning how to use it, but have used it enough to determine that it is very sharp has great IQ.

Dustin Abbott recently completed an excellent review of the Rokinon 14 - check out this discussion:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=17252.0
I've read about it, hence my struggle to get either the Rokinon or Tokina. I must say IQ looks good in there, super sharp and stuff.
 
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Artifex said:
I have the Samyang (Rokinon) 14mm on 6D. This is a great lens, with excellent sharpness and very low price. However, you have to keep in mind that 14mm on FF is VERY wide! I am very happy to have it and I have never regretted buying it, but I can't say it's my most used lens since it is often just too wide. It really depends on how wide you want to go; the 16-28mm FOV is much more practical, but the 14mm is much more unique!
Also, do you have other wide angle lens? For instance, if you already have a 24mm, I would recommend more easily the 14mm than if your widest lens is a 50mm!
I have a 28-75mm walk-around lens. Just wondering, does it mean that you don't really use this lens, except perhaps for landscapes? Are there any other time you use it?
 
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abcde12345 said:
Artifex said:
I have the Samyang (Rokinon) 14mm on 6D. This is a great lens, with excellent sharpness and very low price. However, you have to keep in mind that 14mm on FF is VERY wide! I am very happy to have it and I have never regretted buying it, but I can't say it's my most used lens since it is often just too wide. It really depends on how wide you want to go; the 16-28mm FOV is much more practical, but the 14mm is much more unique!
Also, do you have other wide angle lens? For instance, if you already have a 24mm, I would recommend more easily the 14mm than if your widest lens is a 50mm!
I have a 28-75mm walk-around lens. Just wondering, does it mean that you don't really use this lens, except perhaps for landscapes? Are there any other time you use it?

Since it's so wide, it's not as versatile as a more "traditional" focal length. I use it not only for landspace, but also for group photos (especially with big groups and limited space), bands, "over-the-top" portrait, etc. For me, it is a speciality lens, a bit like a rectilinear fish-eye; it can't be used in any situation, but when it can, it's astonishing. That's the reason why I bought a used 28mm a month after I got a 6D; the gap between 14mm and 35mm was too big. I guess it really depends on the person.
IMO, you should be okay with 14mm and 28-75mm; 28mm on FF is pretty wide, and when it's not enough, there's no doubt that 14mm is going to be! You lose the versatile of the ultra-wide zoom, but gain the widest lens you can imagine (excluding fish-eyes). Not to mention that it is literally half the price! Moreover, if you have decided to upgrade to FF to gain wider FOV, the 14mm is really the thing to have. Of course, the best would be to have both, but if you are like me, it's going to have to wait a bit.
I hope this help. :)
 
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If I'm following correctly then I believe you will be shooting crop with the lens that you buy, with the view of going full-frame in the near future.

Samyang 14mm on a crop body is quite useful and reasonably wide. Once you upgrade to full frame the 14mm might not be as useful anymore because you will see more of the distorted image-circle. I still use mine more on my crop-body. If you plan on shooting structures/cityscapes then rather look at other options because the sharpness doesn't make up for the distortion on full frame.

Tokina's 16-28 is great on full frame with its outstanding optics. It might not be wide enough for you on a crop body though.
 
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StudentOfLight said:
If I'm following correctly then I believe you will be shooting crop with the lens that you buy, with the view of going full-frame in the near future.

Samyang 14mm on a crop body is quite useful and reasonably wide. Once you upgrade to full frame the 14mm might not be as useful anymore because you will see more of the distorted image-circle. I still use mine more on my crop-body. If you plan on shooting structures/cityscapes then rather look at other options because the sharpness doesn't make up for the distortion on full frame.

Tokina's 16-28 is great on full frame with its outstanding optics. It might not be wide enough for you on a crop body though.
I've pulled the trigger and got myself a 6D! ;D So yeah, looking at full frame UWA from now. Does it have so much distortion that it's annoying?
 
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In some scenes it can be a problem, e.g. buildings/structures where the viewer expects to see straight lines. In natural scenes you can compose your shot so that the existence of distortion is not really visible to the viewer.

Linked is a sample image in the built-environment and the presence of distortion is quite clear: http://www.4photos.de/test/Samyang-14mm-Wellenfoermige-Verzeichnung-.jpg

Since you are already FF, I believe the Tokina is the better option and will be a more versatile lens purchase. It will be way more useful most of the time. It might be a better option to rent a 14mm on the odd occasion when you might need it. There are options for distortion correction but you will inevitably lose sharpness as a result. It is better to shoot a cleaner image in-camera than to try and manufacture it afterwards.
 
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