Don Haines said:I want to see 16 bit RAW files.....
Exactly!privatebydesign said:Don Haines said:I want to see 16 bit RAW files.....
Only if they are accompanied by a true 16 bits of data
privatebydesign said:Don Haines said:I want to see 16 bit RAW files.....
Only if they are accompanied by a true 16 bits of data
rfdesigner said:privatebydesign said:Don Haines said:I want to see 16 bit RAW files.....
Only if they are accompanied by a true 16 bits of data
You'll do well to get 15 bits of DR in 16 bits. All ADCs have imperfections, so the Effective Number of Bits (ENOB) is almost always less than the number of bits it puts out. Typically you lose one or two bits between the rated number and the ENOB, that's before you lose anything due to sensor deficiencies.
So yes I'd like to canon making the jump to a higher bit depth, 16 would be nice to see, 18 would be interesting... So long as the whole system can benefit.
I think that we are all in agreement that 14 bits has more or less reached the end of the road and 16 bits (or more) will be coming soon to a Canon near youprivatebydesign said:rfdesigner said:privatebydesign said:Don Haines said:I want to see 16 bit RAW files.....
Only if they are accompanied by a true 16 bits of data
You'll do well to get 15 bits of DR in 16 bits. All ADCs have imperfections, so the Effective Number of Bits (ENOB) is almost always less than the number of bits it puts out. Typically you lose one or two bits between the rated number and the ENOB, that's before you lose anything due to sensor deficiencies.
So yes I'd like to canon making the jump to a higher bit depth, 16 would be nice to see, 18 would be interesting... So long as the whole system can benefit.
That is a given, even if we need 16 bit files to get better than we have now the increase in file size is something I am happy to live with.
privatebydesign said:rfdesigner said:privatebydesign said:Don Haines said:I want to see 16 bit RAW files.....
Only if they are accompanied by a true 16 bits of data
You'll do well to get 15 bits of DR in 16 bits. All ADCs have imperfections, so the Effective Number of Bits (ENOB) is almost always less than the number of bits it puts out. Typically you lose one or two bits between the rated number and the ENOB, that's before you lose anything due to sensor deficiencies.
So yes I'd like to canon making the jump to a higher bit depth, 16 would be nice to see, 18 would be interesting... So long as the whole system can benefit.
That is a given, even if we need 16 bit files to get better than we have now the increase in file size is something I am happy to live with.
WIDEnet said:Hillsilly said:- Advanced in-camera macro focus stacking capabilities that allows you to configure the focus adjustments without having to touch your lens.
- Ability to set a shutter speed longer than 30s without having to plug an additional accessory in.
- Electronic shutter for silent operation (and high fps when silent and faster shutter speeds).
FYI you can already get these three today with most recent Canon bodies, including the 5DII and III, with Magic Lateran.
PhotographyFirst said:WIDEnet said:Hillsilly said:- Advanced in-camera macro focus stacking capabilities that allows you to configure the focus adjustments without having to touch your lens.
- Ability to set a shutter speed longer than 30s without having to plug an additional accessory in.
- Electronic shutter for silent operation (and high fps when silent and faster shutter speeds).
FYI you can already get these three today with most recent Canon bodies, including the 5DII and III, with Magic Lateran.
The Auto Focus stacking in ML kinda works, but has a long way to go to be a full feature. It really needs to be able to calculate focal length, sensor size, MP, and aperture in conjunction with inputs on minimum and maximum focus distances in order to automatically decide how many shots need to be taken and at what distances.
It would take a lot of data and a more advanced user interface to make this a feature Canon would be willing to sell in cameras.
It would be a huge incentive for me to upgrade to a new camera, though.
rs said:Eldar said:+1neuroanatomist said:scyrene said:AudioGlenn said:Zv said:wyldeguy said:eyeland said:EC in M mode
I still don't fully understand why people ask for this. You are already in M mode. You have full control of your exposure, just change one part of the triangle and you're good. Back in film days that's what you had to do. And in most cases you didn't change the iso, so it was shutter or aperture or you just lived with a sub-optimal meter reading and then corrected in the darkroom. I mean the M is for manual. If you want the camera to compensate for you not doing your part then put it in another mode.
Sorry for being a little cranky
It's for when you use auto ISO in M mode. The camera seems to always expose a bit under and if you want to ETTR then you have to keep adjusting the ISO yourself. In a environment where you want control over the aperture AND shutter speed but ISO can be whatever (especially nowadays where high ISO noise seems to be negligible) you can use auto ISO to get the correct exposure but I still prefer to overexposed slightly so EC would tell the camera to use a slightly higher ISO than what it normally would.
In reality though I can easily fix this digitally in post but it's nice to get the exposure right in camera.
Such a simple fix for this already guys. shoot in Av but lock you shutter speed to your desired setting in the Menu. Auto ISO works as requested. No need for Auto ISO in Manual mode....Manual means FULLY manual.
But doesn't the 1Dx have the feature he's asking for? If so, there must be a (perceived) need for it.
It does, and I use it frequently.
It is a very important feature to have.
The 7D2 and 5Ds have this feature, so it's fairly safe to assume that the 5D4 will have it too.
bholliman said:rs said:Eldar said:+1neuroanatomist said:scyrene said:AudioGlenn said:Zv said:wyldeguy said:eyeland said:EC in M mode
I still don't fully understand why people ask for this. You are already in M mode. You have full control of your exposure, just change one part of the triangle and you're good. Back in film days that's what you had to do. And in most cases you didn't change the iso, so it was shutter or aperture or you just lived with a sub-optimal meter reading and then corrected in the darkroom. I mean the M is for manual. If you want the camera to compensate for you not doing your part then put it in another mode.
Sorry for being a little cranky
It's for when you use auto ISO in M mode. The camera seems to always expose a bit under and if you want to ETTR then you have to keep adjusting the ISO yourself. In a environment where you want control over the aperture AND shutter speed but ISO can be whatever (especially nowadays where high ISO noise seems to be negligible) you can use auto ISO to get the correct exposure but I still prefer to overexposed slightly so EC would tell the camera to use a slightly higher ISO than what it normally would.
In reality though I can easily fix this digitally in post but it's nice to get the exposure right in camera.
Such a simple fix for this already guys. shoot in Av but lock you shutter speed to your desired setting in the Menu. Auto ISO works as requested. No need for Auto ISO in Manual mode....Manual means FULLY manual.
But doesn't the 1Dx have the feature he's asking for? If so, there must be a (perceived) need for it.
It does, and I use it frequently.
It is a very important feature to have.
The 7D2 and 5Ds have this feature, so it's fairly safe to assume that the 5D4 will have it too.
I'm really enjoying this feature on my 5DSr. I often shoot in M with auto ISO when shooting wildlife, and frequently the exposure is 1/3 to 2/3 stop too dark. Now, I can dial up EC a few clicks and nail the exposure I'm looking for almost every time.
LOALTD said:NO BRAINER:
NO GIMPED CARD SLOTS! This is, by far, the biggest oversight with the Mk III. Do I want to use both card slots or do I want to shoot fast? Choose one. I don't even care if they dump CF, use a new format, or use SDXC for both, just make both of the card slots equally fast.
In order of preference*:
- NO MORE BANDING
- Increased DR
- 1 stop or more increase in high ISO
- 4k video, with H.265 recording option (like it or not, this codec is the future, all Intel processors from here on out will be able to decode it in hardware. Samsung already has this in their cameras)
- RAW 1080p video option (I love Magic Lantern, I just wish the post-processing wasn't so time intensive)
- At least 120fps 1080p
- Dual-pixel AF
- Touch Screen! To better use DPAF!
- articulated LCD: SO MUCH EASIER TO shoot low, much less neck strain when using a tripod!
- Focus peaking
- Exposures longer than 30s without going into obnoxious bulb mode. Just let me program in the exact exposure time myself.
- Built-in intravolometer: Magic Lantern currently has this, so nice to be able to do timelapses without having to bring a stupid $50 cable with me
- WiFi: I love being able to upload a photo using my phone immediately after taking it with Sony cameras
- Ability to "flag" photos in-camera: I know you can star them, I don't care about that. I don't star photos in LR, I flag them.
- more print buttons
Don't care:
- MP: current is fine
- AF: current is fine
- shooting speed: current is fine
- weather seals: current is fine
- battery life: current is phenominal
- viewfinder: see above
*one of these is a trick.
The Bad Duck said:A clean Iso 12.5 and 50, as built in ND filter. And you know, more of everything that the 5dmklll has, keep the evolution going.