LonelyBoy said:

But if you want the light-equivalent of the 70-200/2.8 for crop, so a ~45-120/1.8 or so, it'll be the same size except for the rear elements, and so as expensive as the 70-200/2.8. And for the body, yes, 10FPS is great for sports. Do you really think Canon can, or will, give a no-compromise body with FF and speed for mid-range price? I'm about to buy a 4Runner, wish I could afford a GX460, but I know Toyota can't (or won't) give me the premium version for the same price.

The zoom isn't mandatory; people can and do shoot basketball with a crop + 85/1.8. If you want to be all-in for less than $2000, there will be some compromises compared to the full pro-setup. And for a lot of people even $2000 is too much, so they'll just have to rely on whatever photographer is there from the school or paper (or go with a yet-cheaper option than you're talking about and manage to make do...).

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It seems to me too that they don't get much smaller or cheaper at least for tele range. But isn't that different on the wide side?

And again, since the body difference is $2000, lenses don't need to be that much cheaper.

Primes are certainly good for indoor sports. I have used 50 1.4 and 85 1.8 for that many times, even if I much more often prefer zooms. When your photographing time is limited, you may not have a lot of opportunities and with primes they get even fewer.

With mid-price I refered to a 7D2 with suitable fast lenses. But Canon may not be the one to make those lenses.

hne said:

Second place for best is a tie between my light meter and a two-foot 5-in-one collapsible reflector that I didn't properly learn to use until a decade after buying it.

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Reflectors are awesome.

StudentOfLight said:

...
I was lucky to be at the right place at the right time, and my camera was primed (pun intended) for action:
...

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Really nice capture. I like the b/w conversion.

arbitrage said:

We already have this lens in the 200-400/1.4 for the most part.

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That's a big lens. That's a very big lens.

Hi Daniela - tracking moving subjects is a whole new learning curve and it is so easy to believe you have nailed focus, then you look at the picture in Canon's DPP and see the focus point is past the bird. Evenmore so if the gull is 50 metres away.
If the bird is against a uniform background (sand dunes, blue sky etc) then it becomes easier. If it is flying past a complex background (scrubland, trees) it is so easy for the AF to pick up the more contrasty background. Also, anything moving towards you makes it so much harder for the AF to keep with the change in distance (but it is easier to keep the AF point on the face). Start off with something moving parallel to you.

Experiment with grab shots as much as you want, but it is easier to practice if you see the bird from some distance, get the AF point on it and let the system track it for a second or two before firing the shutter (google 'Canon pump focus' for more explanation)

And practice, practice, practice...

No... just no. It's like this person hasn't used a xxxD before.

On xxxD bodies without rear dial (ie everything other than t6s) you turn the top dial to M, then use the front wheel to set shutter speed. If you put your thumb on the Av button on the back (which is actually very comfortably placed), the wheel then controls aperture. These controls even work in LV. Or, you can press Q and use the arrows and set and control it on the screen. Or you can use the touch screen. And when not in LV You put your thumb on the live view zoom out button and use the wheel to adjust +/-.

On every xxxD model before t7i, it is definitely not:

there are no obvious direct methods to take full manual control of exposure settings using the EOS 800D.

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... unless you've never used a xxxD or read the manual... or just pushed buttons...

And anyways, if you've gotten to buy a $700 SLR body, you should learn how the manual settings work, even if they're not your favorite way of shooting

I don't think they will find much of a market in the US, but they may smuggle them into other countries.

digital paradise said:

Custom Settings - "detail set" for the AF-ON and * buttons. Canon please add Drive Mode to the list of options.

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You got that right. The 1DX2 enhanced programmability of those buttons gives so much greater AF versatility! You can change modes just rocking your thumb and shutter finger, instantly.

Jack

Hillsilly said:

The force is strong with them.

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Indeed!

..a handgrip fitting within the enclosing rectangle would have been useful...

Hi Peak, yes, I would think having those ports exposed completely removes the weather proofing, as water can have direct access to a live circuit.

LonelyBoy said:

rfdesigner said:

in this case it is equivelent, depth of field, speed, field of view are all equal, effectively it would be the same lens with a little variation in the rear group to focus the same light over an APS-C sensor rather than a FF sensor.

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Sure... and then you lose the size advantage the OP wanted.

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not disagreeing.. I blame physics

Mt Spokane Photography said:

You should note that the attachment capability was turned back on a few days ago.

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This is great news!

Re: Women of Influence Series Presented by B&H Photo

Dylan777 said:

My top 3 favorite photographers. Her photos inspired me:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/75571860@N06/

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Thanks, Dylan. Refreshing and inspiring stuff!

Being able to add the wifi function to the custom quick menu would be handy. It's weird that you can't do it already. :-\

[email protected] said:

Milvus is great, but I have to hand the better AF to the $90 EF lens. It has better consistency; and, oh yeah, it actually exists.

Note to Sigma: remove AF and charge $2k.

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Did you ever shoot with a good manual focusing lens?
Sometimes manual focus has a better consistency than autofocus...
And a good autofocus may work, but shooting macro f.i. manual focus us key. And here the canon lenses are not great...

Great great!!! Thank you so much.

85mm at 1.2 and 1/80s, ISO250

Re: CPS Removes Certain Lenses & Cameras from Serviceable List

BeenThere said:

I've had two Canon lenses that died due to autofocus no longer working and, at the time, they were discontinued and unrepairable at either Canon or any independent repair shop that I contacted. I sold one for parts and still have the other one. It's a fact of life with these lenses that they will stop working at some point and not longer have any value. Same thing happens with televisions and many other electronic based items.

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It's a matter of cost. If I spent $10K on a television, I would expect it to be serviceable for at least a decade.

A slightly different view of a deep sea vessel heading up a fjord in Norway to a cable factory for a load-out. Can't take credit for this one, I was on board. Taken by the vessel manager meeting us there.

chrysoberyl said:

Viggo said:

I've been look in a bit at this lens lately, and it seems quality control is horrible. My preferred shop said they tested three copies of the ones they got and they had so heavy vignette that they sent them back and refused to sell them. I see some tests, think it was dpreview, that says the vignette is pretty great, and lens tip claims it's horrible. One guy sent me a summary of his experience and said the first one he got had 5 stops of vignette that never cleard, even at f11. He sent it back and got another one that was "much better" and he had a couple of samples that proved the difference, so wth?

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How very interesting! Thanks for posting. I'm glad I went with the Samyang 14mm 2.4. Which I expect to see 3/13.

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I was also recommended the XP 14 f2.4 instead, but I wanted a uwa mostly for fun so I won't be spending XP 14 money on one as of now.
Looks like you made the right choice For me, I'm lusting after the Canon 14 L II again, I loved that lens when I had it.

sigma = statistical standard deviation. 2 sigma (precisely 1.96 for larger number of observations, usually taken as >>100, but usually rounded to 2 for ease and good measure) is the 95% confidence interval. 6 sigmas is way further our on the bell curve. As Mt spokane pointed out, 99.99966% confidence interval. Haven't checked, but sounds about right.

Standard deviation = Square root of sum of squared deviations from mean divided by number of observations minus one.

hope that helps. If not, google standard deviation in statistics.

Yes! Thanks indeed. Much appreciated. I could have lived with the change but I found it cumbersome. 8) ;D

you might have to adapt/modify from a find at you local hardware store
other two options would be a getting a aftermarket tripod ring or (even harder to get) find someone that would lend you that screw and washer and get it "copied"/machined. It is possible to make a mold and then cast one in hard polymer/resin, but still think the hardware store is you best choice

EBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JJC-TR-2-tripod-mount-ring-rep-Canon-Mount-Ring-B-for-100mm-f-2-8-180mm-f-3-5L-/222116641744?hash=item33b72efbd0:g:wRgAAOSw1KxXNYEg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metal-Lens-Tripod-Mount-Ring-Support-for-Canon-B-B-EF-180mm-f-3-5L-Macro-USM-/262607145005?hash=item3d249b082d:g-8AAOSwaA5Wj3wR

Talys said:

I bought one, just for the nano USM. AF is not quite as fast as 18-135 (which is so fast that it's scary), nor as quiet, but it's still better than any other lens in either category, IMO. I really like the IQ on it for the price and focal range. On a tripod, it's a beast; without, you need to up ISOs a little because most of the range is f/4 or smaller.

The build quality is really nice. It has a premium and solid feel to it, and a modern look, just like the 18-135 USM.

My biggest criticism of these lenses is the electronic focus ring. I hate not having full time MF, especially on the 70-300; having to hold the shutter halfway to focus is annoying, and I manually focus all the time with birding because the AF may focus on the wrong subject (wrong bird, tree branch, whatever).

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I'm completely with you on the MF issue. That's my least favorite thing about STM/Nano USM