Posts

Woody · Feb 15, 2016

rrcphoto said:
when the 5D first came out - dpreview made a BIG deal of vignetting with full frame lenses. like it never happened before.

Yup. That is DPReview for you.

They kept bashing Canon for the release of 35 mm full frame digital cameras... those years when Nikon and Sony had NONE.

They only stopped after Nikon release the D3.

After that, vignetting suddenly became a useful artistic tool. No kidding.

I pointed this out several times in DPReview, until Phil Askey left.

Now, they are at it again... They are not absolutely wrong, but it's strange they'll conveniently dismiss the shortcomings of other competing brands...

3kramd5 · Feb 14, 2016

YellowJersey said:
Why are we even talking about DR in a thread about a lens?

Because it was suggested that canon should stop developing series II (and rumored III) lenses and instead put that money into sensor R&D to increase an alleged fatal deficiency in dynamic range.

As a consumer, I'd rather they prioritize resources for those items which last potentially decades (like lenses) rather than several years. I'd probably like 50% (at least) going to lenses, with the remaining 50% (at most) split among sensors, processors, flash systems, shutters, cost reduction, etc. Granted, I am not a strategy officer.

sedwards · Feb 14, 2016

Could the screw be bottoming out in the hole ? with 1/4-20 thread you should be able to get it plenty tight so it wont move .

Mt Spokane Photography · Feb 13, 2016

I do not like the KEH online interface either, but it has actually improved a lot from a few years back.

Valvebounce · Feb 13, 2016

Hi hhkd.
I think the Latin name is fucus sanguinum tibia utricularis

Cheers, Graham.

hhkd said:
Don Haines said:

All we get around here is the common Scottish hummingbird

Click to expand...

That's neat, what's the scientific name? I can't find anything on the common Scottish hummingbird.

hhkd · Feb 13, 2016

I could see my self using something like this on my 60D. It's definitely overbuilt, water resistant would be good enough. I had my 24mm pancake out in San Francisco, it was way to misty and rainy to swap out for my 70-300 (non-L, of course) so I tried my best to capture this heron with the 24. The camera and lens got fairly wet but I used one of those rubber wrist band things on the lens and pushed up against the body, nothing stopped working.
Not a good shot, just one to help me remember.

Click · Feb 13, 2016

I totally agree

rfdesigner · Feb 13, 2016

WorkonSunday said:
Hi all,

I must admit i have only spent 30mins searching on google, but i will ask anyway

I understand that a 17mm TSE without shift will give 17mm on FF. And if use on aps-c i get 17x1.6=27mm eqv on FF. But thats without shifting.

On FF, if i do maximum shift horizontally on left and right, and stitch the images in post, i get a field of view around 10.5mm eqv. In theory, the shift will allow aps-c bodies to do the same. Afterall, the lens just project the same image, it's only the sensor thats determining how much of that image can be captured. However, in practice i know there may be other mechanical limitation on how much i can shift with the lens (the knob and slide wont let u go further?). So my question is, do you know if i can still get the full 10.5mm horizontal coverage if i use something like 7D2 with 17mm TSE? Thanks.

eDIT: or word it differently, if i use 7D2 with 17TSE and shift to the most far left (or right), will i see the black edge where the image circle ends? Thanks

think about it this way.

Imagine holding the lens still and moving the sensor under it. If you have a FF sensor, the sensor is moved entirely within the huge image circle of the TSE17, at no point does the sensor extend beyond the image circle.

Now relace the FF sensor for a smaller one. It's now further from the edge of the image circle so no, no black edge.. (I don't think the mirror box vignetts from very wide angles, but you can check that)

However you could now need 4 or 5 images to cover the full shift as you have a smaller sensor, and so the difference between crop and FF in terms of FOV will be reduced compared to the normal 1.6:1 ratio.

But the 10mm Wide angles zooms will get you roughly that FOV in one hit.

IMHO the three ways forward are: a 10-something EF-S zoom, the TSE17+FFcamera, or a panoramic tripod head.. which guarentees everything lines up but is much cheaper than the TSE+FF but should yield better resolution than the 10-something zoom.

It all comes down to what you are trying to do.

Also concider renting if you really aren't sure.

DanCarr · Feb 12, 2016

What's odd about this is that the image height suggests that this isn't a full frame lens. I know none of the other CN-E zoome lenses are full frame either, it's just that the range of 24-70 is typically associated with a full frame system. That range on a super 35 sensor size is decidedly less useful and "general purpose" IMO. I noted the same thing with the 70-200 CN-E patent a while back as well. You'd think they would just match the Zeiss cine 70-200 and 24-70 which do offer full frame coverage. Particularly with the new Vistavison sensor in the RED camera as well which has a much larger image circle than a super 35 lens can handle.

Maybe I'm wrong in the way I'm interpreting the "image height" in the patent? If this was a lens that covered a full frame sensor then it would truly be something for filmmakers to get excited about.

ritholtz · Feb 12, 2016

His +5ev is showing lot of promise.
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/57265121

scottkinfw · Feb 12, 2016

Welcome to a great camera.

I find that a combination of the histogram primarily with the highlight alert settings are more than adequate.

If you want hacks for zebra stripes and other items look at magic lantern.

sek

Dholai · Feb 11, 2016

Got it - it is gone !
Thanks everybody and thanks Neuro.
What would I do without you guys!

Tyroop · Feb 11, 2016

Fish shop in Bangkok's Chinatown taken with the EF-S 10-22mm.

I did a very quick comparison with the EF-S 10-22mm against the EF-M 11-22mm. The EF-M lens has a big size and weight advantage, and because it is a much newer design taking advantage of recent developments in coating technology, etc, I was expecting the results to be roughly the same or for the EF-M to be slightly better.

The results surprised me. Images from the old EF-S 10-22 just looked better - brighter, better colours, better saturation, more detail in the shadows. Sample images here:

http://phil.uk.net/photography/canon_EF-M_11-22_STM_IS.html#versus1022

The EF-M 11-22mm is still a great lens, especially for travel because of its light weight and compactness, but in situations where image quality is more important than convenience I will still grab the EF-S 10-22mm.

jhpeterson · Feb 11, 2016

Mogens Hansen said:
Not to encourage anybody to expose their equipment to salt water, I do have experience in that.
I have been photographing yacht racing for many years using Canon 1D series bodies (1D mkII, 1Ds mkII, two 1Ds mkIII and two 1DX). I have mostly been using the Canon 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS (mkI), which is not (fully) weather sealed, but also 70-200/2.8L IS (mkI) and 70-200/2.8L IS mkII which are weather sealed. When possible I do use UV filters to protect the lenses.
I do try to protect the equipment from water, but sometimes it will be hit by a wave.
Everyday when I get onshore, I wipe all equipment with a damp, clean dishtowel.
I have never had a single failure so far.

One of the events I photographed in 2015 was the World Championship for the Olympic Nacra 17 class (https://www.flickr.com/photos/sailingaarhus/sets/72157655427692796). It was photographed using two 1DX primarily with 300/2.8L IS (mkI) and 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS mkII on the race course.
The weather was quite bad during most of the event. When it was worst I used the Thinktank Hydrophobia rain covers (like https://www.flickr.com/photos/sailingaarhus/18897745314/in/album-72157655427692796/ - at this point the wind was to strong even for these world class athletes). Although the Hydrophobias are excellent, it does make it even harder to photograph these extremely fast boats.
During the final, very intense medalrace, the wind was close to the max limit (https://www.flickr.com/photos/sailingaarhus/19574966062/in/album-72157655427692796/ - the French coaches are cheering as their team approaches the finishing line as World Champions). I had a driver for my RIB boat who could cover me a little. So I chose not to use the raincover, to be able to work faster. But the 1DX with the 100-400/4.5-5.6L IS mkII was soaked in saltwater multiple time (and I dried it with a dishtowel) - the equipment worked absolutely flawless and still does.
By using 2 bodies, I dont have to switch lens - I switch camera. In general I only use one camera at the time.

That's the reason why I, and many yacht photographers, use 1D series bodies.

+1
Having been a yachting photographer for a few decades as well, I fully agree with the above poster.
There's no such thing as a waterproof camera, at least for the way we work. I find myself using a 300/2.8 more than any other and typically complement it with both a 70-200/2.8 and a 500/4. An underwater housing for such long lenses not only would be expensive and impractical, but unwieldy to the point we'd seldom be able to get usable photos.
All I can do is minimize the happening of disasters and mitigate the damage when, not if, it occurs. For that reason I stick to 1D series cameras and weather-sealed "L" glass. A wipedown of every piece of gear with a cloth dampened with fresh water then dried with a towel is mandatory after getting ashore.
I've use raincovers when the seas were the worst. While they slow down my work, they do provide one more level of protection, which may mean my gear keeps working in conditions where it may not have otherwise. Perhaps it even lives to see another day.

MiJe · Feb 11, 2016

Love the close focussing ability ...

TeT · Feb 11, 2016

Yes it is, only saw the Big White, guess Canon kept a good running kit for him...

He took some nice shots....

neonlight · Feb 11, 2016

Surely some mistake? MOre likely EF-M?

privatebydesign · Feb 11, 2016

You can see the refection of the setup in the distance window, it is a simple white box, like the cheap 'product' things you get on eBay and the like.

Lamp on image right slightly closer than the one image left, with an open front.

Luds34 · Feb 11, 2016

On the 70-200 front, you might consider the f/2.8 non-IS. Used, that can be found within your budget. Since you are shooting sports the IS will be useless.

I echo what others have said, AI Servo means one should probably stick to native Canon glass.

Maiaibing · Feb 11, 2016

cpsico said:
BigAntTVProductions said:

rfdesigner said:

I've measured the noise and gain, and lo and behold it seems to be a fraction of a stop better than published data suggesting I got lucky.

What I have noticed is the "blinkies" seem to be a little over nervous.. i.e. it claims to be clipping maybe as much as 1/3rd of a stop before it really does so. Ideally I'd like it to actually tell me the exact point of clipping. I'm shooting RAW + Ljpeg at the moment

Click to expand...

here's some help if u can take it back and get 5d3 lol

Click to expand...

Lol only for autofocus the 6d has better dynamic range and IQ

Not only this. Not less of a basic problem with the 5DIII and with autofocus the difference goes both ways as the 6D is somewhat better with low light (using the center point). Disappointing 5DIII autofocus in the dark was my main reason for keeping my 5DII's instead if getting the 5DIII.

ajfotofilmagem · Feb 10, 2016

AlanF said:
The lack of slap with silent mode is remarkably good. I hope my postings on this are of use to others.

Yes, your tests are useful for many users in Canon Rumors.
Thanks for sharing.

nvsravank · Feb 10, 2016

Ok I think you finally got the point but I have to disagree with you on the use of the joystick vs wheel.
When you nine points or so cycling through the points was a no brainer. But with the 60+ focus points, it takes forever. And moving vertically or side to side is not as simple. With the joy stick it becomes much easier while shooting OVF style. You can control it more intuitively. And since it has directional ability you can even go diagonal. Getting it right using a wheel is nearly impossible I would think. If it is a clickty wheel like the back dial you can do it, but even then it wouldn't be as easy as the joystick.

CanonFanBoy said:
Proscribo said:

CanonFanBoy said:

...
The camera senses when the face gets close and turns the touch screen off instantly. Turns it back on instantly when you pull the face away. Settings NEVER get changed by the nose or face.
...

Click to expand...

AFAIK 70D doesn't even have a sensor to detect whether you're looking through VF or not. However it still doesn't change settings when poking around, which is exactly the problem! You see, the point was that you can't use the screen to change AF point while looking through the VF, and that with joystick it's a lot easier than with wheels or D-pad.

Click to expand...

Yes, the 70D has the sensor. I own one, do you? To reactivate the screen you press the "Q" button. (Wow, the screen becomes active again just like the 5D III!)

On your other point: HUH? Why or how would anyone want to change the AF point via the screen while looking through the viewfinder? You aren't making sense. That is impossible.

When looking through the viewfinder one can see the points and can change them that way... using wheels or D-pad.

I have no idea why one would think a joystick would be easier. I cycle through the points much quicker with the wheels than with the joystick. I do it the same way on my 5D III even though it has a joystick. The joystick is a slow choice for cycling through AF points. The wheels are much faster. Maybe change is really difficult for some and making stuff up is their coping mechanism.

Not having the joystick doesn't cripple the 70D at all. Everyone likes what they like. Gotta have a slow joystick? Don't get a 70D.

However, making stuff up out of thin air is just... goofy. (Nose changes settings, have to use the screen to change AF points, wheels are difficult, joystick is faster, camera doesn't sense when the face is close and eye is looking through the viewfinder etc...)

You boys must be trolling, right?

pixyl · Feb 10, 2016

Mt Spokane Photography said:
pixyl said:

Do Canon sell these kind of parts themselves? I know there are eBay sellers having lens assemblies for the Powershot S-series (S90 etc.) but I'm a bit sceptical that I'll receive a fake, sub-par lens that way...

Click to expand...

I repair or try to repair cameras and lenses. The first mistake people make is assuming those cross headed screws are Phillips, and ruin the heads of the screws to the point where they can't be removed without drilling them out. They are JIS heads on the screws and need jis screwdrivers.

Thanks for pointing this out. I'd never considered any other type of screwdrivers than the regular Philips.

I say this just to illustrate the kind of trouble a person can get into tearing into a camera. The lenses are indeed assemblies with lots of wires and ribbon cables, they are not sealed as in moisture proof.

Actually, would it be so hard for Canon to seal the lens assemblies with a little silicone or something? A little sealing would be a lot better than none at all. But fortunately as I just pointed out my previous posting I got it all repaired under warranty, so I'm no longer going to assume this camera will take any moisture at all.

The powershot cameras I have disassembled were $1 units I bought at garage sales for practice that were damaged, so were junk. Getting the lens assembly out was a exercise in futility, I finally did it, but damaged it and probably some other items in the process. This particular lens was jammed, and I could see teeth broken off the extension gears as I tore it down. That is a common issue with power shots, sand gets in the lens barrel and it jams. Then the gears strip.

Thanks for sharing your experience. I actually have both a Canon S100 and an S110 which are damaged in different ways: the S110 a faulty lens assembly and the S100 a crushed display (or was it the other way round?). I got hold of a new compatible display from eBay (avoiding overpriced original parts for something which doesn't affect image quality anyway), but damaged the "flexible PCB" when trying to remove the old display/reattach the new one. It seems the two cameras share the same lens assembly so I figure I could take the working lens assembly from one camera and move it over to the camera with the working LCD display, or replace the LCD display on the camera with the working lens assembly... in that case I probably need a replacement part for that flexible PCB which attaches to the display and is around the buttons area on the back of the camera.
Buying cheap $1 damaged cameras would be great for this, but I haven't found anything like that here.

If you want to repair it, get the factory repair manual if available, or at least buuy a couple of used powershots, some jis screwdrivers, and see how they are assembled. Beware of the high power in the capacitor of the flash unit, it can really jolt you (Speaking from experience). Discharge it with a jumper wire as soon as you can get to it.

Where do you get the repair manuals? Do you happen to know if the lens assembly in the S100 and S110 are the same?

I'd buy parts from Canon. A new model like this one will not have used parts floating around or for sale. The lens is quite a good one, and it will be expensive. Taking the lens apart to clean it is likely not going to work.

In your experience, would it be possible to take the entire lens assembly from one of the cameras over to the other? Actually I'd prefer to replace the display instead of messing with the optics in any way (provided I get that "flexible PCB" spare part).

bholliman · Feb 9, 2016

bluemoon said:
At that young age your kid will not be on a ride that will require a telephoto lens.

I suppose everybody's usage is different, but I take more shots with my telephoto lenses (70-200 or 135/2 on FF) than I do with a normal lens for our pre-school kids, since the kiddie rides are very accessible, but the children are far enough away that you need some reach. I also like the ability to blur out busy backgrounds with wide apertures at longer focal lengths.

I use the longer lenses less with our older kids since the big rides are too distant and inaccessible for good pictures most of the time anyway.

Fast lenses in the wide to normal range are very useful for low light areas. I seldom bother to take a flash since they often are not allowed and bounce opportunities limited.

Roo · Feb 9, 2016

Thanks Click and jwilbern!

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