Posts

zhaoqingMal · Mar 13, 2015

I'm still debating which fast prime to get, and have also been looking at the Sigma Art 50mm for the last couple of days.

Is the AF accuracy really a major problem with this lens, or is it something that only a few people seem to encounter?

I'm also interested in how this lens works with the original 7D AF system. Is there any issues here?

Thanks,

LonelyBoy · Mar 12, 2015

ahsanford said:
I could see the 6D being kit with this new lens for sure. But the 5D line is a huge bump in price, features, and expectations -- that brand will likely only be kit (by Canon) with an L zoom of fixed max aperture.

- A

The 6D is already kitted with it sometimes, and I firmly believe it will be the only kit option for the 5D4. Personally, I think your fretting over STM being in a "$600" lens is misplaced, when very few people buy kit lenses at full whack - how many actually bought the 24-105L at $1200? None, I hope. Sure, the 18-135 STM is "$550"... but Adorama has almost-new ones for $299, and that sort of lightly-used discount is typical for kit lenses (and also, even if you called it a "step-up" lens in your previous post, it is a kit lens). I bought my 18-135 STM for $240. That sort of discount isn't available for actual step-up lenses like the 70-300L (sadly). They didn't put USM on the 100-400ii, 11-24, 24-70ii, 70-200ii... rest easy in the knowledge that USM will continue to be used on high-end lenses.

Freddell · Mar 12, 2015

Issue was fixed by changing camera top plate

YuengLinger · Mar 12, 2015

Thanks. I had a perception a bigger front element was better, because L primes tend to be bigger than their standard counterparts.

ahsanford · Mar 12, 2015

Zv said:
expatinasia said:

Not really a big deal but I do wish Canon would make more of an effort with the bag it provides with such lenses. What is it US$ 3,000 and you can't add a filter so that front element needs even more protection than normal.

Like I said, it's not a deal breaker but how many of us ever use those Canon pouches?! And would you with this lens? I wouldn't.

Click to expand...

I use those pouches for storing bits and bobs like an adaptor or batteries. Basically stuff that doesn't beak easily! So they're not entirely useless!

Agree with expatinasia -- a $3k lens should probably come with a proper padded enclosure if not a hard case. When that thing stays at home, it should be a very comfortable and protective environment.

- A

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 12, 2015

ksgal said:
It is how they created the sensor. Pixels on the 70D/7DmkII sensor are very small, more refined than previous crop sensors. Then they took that sensor, and enlarged it to be a full frame sensor, keeping the very refined pixels and = 50mp for the full frame version.

The resolution/resolving power of the crop sensor is really good, one can only imagine you can see hair on the amoeba on the eyelash of the model with this new full frame sensor.

I don't think that's correct. The 7D is a dual pixel sensor, totally different from the single pixel sensor on the new 5DS. Do you have any information that I missed saying the new camera is dual pixel??

brad goda · Mar 12, 2015

id go brand name
better build, color and light quality…
for boxes I personally prefer white interior… softer light and last longer.
Plume, Chimera, Profoto or Elenchrom --- those are name brands.
the hard thing for me was find is a good mounting system for speed lights…
ALL the crap on the market is made of flimsy material and or parts that just twist and spin in the wind…
and thats just mounting up a small box … how do you get a sturdy mount for a medium or large box that will first handle the torque/weight and or a bit of wind…
all I found was the profoto RFI mount… its great and will mount two heads!!
but I made my own… this DIY accepts ALL Profoto modifiers… Is sturdy and costs 45.00 that with the bogen mount and lumiquest diffuser… I can mount an umbrella reflector, magnum, soft light or chimera speedring.

brad goda · Mar 12, 2015

I had to make my own bracket that would allow TTL sync with canon exrt system and to either PW to profoto or Goddox CL360 transmitter…
the parts are from flash zebra, canon, bogen and sunway… the aluminum bar was just cut and tapped 1/4 20 to mount on bogen mini ball and holes drilled to hold TTL and hotshoe mounts…

this idea came about because how i hate the fact canon did not make a tilting action on the exrt transmitter and when camera is set up high I need a step stool to adjust the settings…
yes I know there is camera back accessible speed light control but just getting to the window is slow…

this bracket so far has worked well and allows more than even two transmitters to sync …

I admit a custom pc out from canon TTL off camera cable would be my next step.

9VIII · Mar 12, 2015

Re: 5DS - effective "resolution" -> image-size in mraw and sraw

Zeidora said:
...AFAIU, mRAW and sRAW only use the central portion of the sensor...

I would love to see where you got this information.

Conquistador · Mar 11, 2015

Maybe it's going to be a 200MM Macro lens with an image stabiliser?

PureClassA · Mar 11, 2015

AshtonNekolah said:
no offense but how the heck you can be so careless with a lens in this price range and quality? its totally unacceptable to be dropping lenses in this class. out of a shoulder bag? I would throw that bag out and get me something promising.

Some idiot in an airport who is messing with his cell phone runs into you and knocks your case off your shoulder causing it to land front element corner down. The case absorbed enough shock to protect the elements but the assembly and IS motor were knocked to hell. It can happen, even with good cases. Sometimes it's just not your day. And that was the 70-200 MK II of ALL lenses..... Donated $350 to CPS that week..... ugh

Finn M · Mar 11, 2015

jhpeterson said:
I had a Mk I for about three years and was never really impressed. It seemed to be a little less sharp than either of the two non-IS models I'd owned previously. However, the biggest problem was light falloff throughout the zoom range, not just at the short end. I sent it back to Canon three times for a fix and and it never seemed to get better.
I can't say I had much luck with teleconverters either. I would occasionally use it with a 1.4x EF II when I didn't want to carry my 300 and I would almost always regret my choice. And, the one time I matched it with 2x EF (II), it was such a bad fit that I don't think I got a single sharp shot.
In the last 20+ years, I've had nine Canon zooms in this range of focal lengths, starting with the 80-200/2.8. The IS Mk I was definitely the worst. Maybe I just had a bad copy, but I'm not the only one, as I've talked with others who had similar issues.
The newer version seems better on all counts, greater sharpness, especially wide open, particularly at the long and short ends. There's still some light falloff in the corners, but it's noticeably less. And, it gives reasonably sharp results with my converters, especially the 2x EF III. The images are still no match for what I take with my 300, but they're usable for most everything my clients require. In my book, the Mk II is well worth the premium over the earlier model.

By light falloff you mean vignetting (darker corners)? This is no issue even on f2,8 since the small amount is easy to auto correct in the RAW converter in Photoshop.

I have over the years had at least 6-7 different samples of the 70-200/2,8L IS in my camera bag, some just for short time, others for some longer. I have never experiences any issues with this lens. It was my big favourite inntil I bought the mk.II.
The mk.I is a very good lens, but the mk.II is outstanding. It is simply Canons sharpest zoom lens, and it outperforms almost all fixed lenses in the same range.
The difference? The mk.I has two weaknesses: soft outside the centre image on f2,8 and 200mm, and big problems with lens flare in backlit situations. The mk.II is very sharp even on f2,8 while the mk.I gains on stepping down to f4 especially on 200mm. The IS is also much better on the mk.II

danielm · Mar 11, 2015

Another review here: http://www.amateurphotographer.co.uk/reviews/lenses/sigma-24mm-f1-4-dg-hsm-a-review

Page 4 has this reviewer's opinion about the coma:

At the other end of the light-level scale, anyone interested in shooting star fields or cityscapes at night will be pleased to hear that coma is very low indeed, meaning that point light sources in the corner of the frame don’t distort excessively in shape, even when shooting wide open.

But frankly the examples look pretty much the same as the ones on the lenstip.com review. So, what is one person's "very low indeed" is another's "simply outrageous"?

Someone tell me what to think!

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 11, 2015

jdramirez said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:

I've driven a 700 mile round trip to purchase a hard to find item from a Craigslist seller.

Click to expand...

700. I think my driving radius is about 50 miles... but the range increases as the price gets better... I've driven 15 hours to St. Louis before... but i was young... and I thought I liked driving... not so much.

I'm retired, and a 700 mile round trip is not so bad since I got to play with the equipment before coming back home. I'd just spend the night in a motel if I was too tired.

privatebydesign · Mar 11, 2015

Zv said:
privatebydesign said:

Random Orbits said:

LovePhotography said:

Isn't there a fisheye straightening tool in Photoshop? (Or something?)
How good is it How much does it degrade the image? Can you get close?
I've got an 8-15mm, but my old PS crashed and I haven't bought a new one yet, and I really balk at the Creative Cloud blackmail.

Click to expand...

I've typically applied the Canon 15mm fisheye profile in LR to defish the 8-15 and adjust as needed. It stretches out the fisheye projection to the edges and corners, and the further away from the center the pixels are the worse the stretching. You can crop the defished imaged to eliminate the worst of the artifacts, but then you're sacrificing AOV. Images with geometric patterns (think cabinets, floors and ceilings) are easier to interpolate and look OK, but for details (landscapes), it'll be pretty poor.

Click to expand...

The very cheap Plugin FisheyeHemi is a fantastic tool for defishing fisheye images, it doesn't do full rectilinear corrections so doesn't have the edge projection issues a simple remap can introduce, it uses a more complicated remapping algorithm and the pixel level IQ remains very high.

http://www.imagetrendsinc.com/products/prodpage_hemi.asp

Click to expand...

Have you seen this guys method of defishing using FisheyeHemi? He changes the canvas size for a landscape shot into a portrait shot to run it through Hemi again so that it corrects both axis.

http://www.lonelyspeck.com/defish/

The FisheyeHemi stuff is near the end of the article.

I had not seen that or used that technique, thanks. I don't seem to get the same results as him on the second run but I'll keep playing.

One thing I will say, and always do, that old Canon EF 15mm f2.8 fisheye is an outstandingly good lens.

bgateb · Mar 11, 2015

quick shots/comparisons between the 16-35L II and the 24-70L II

https://www.flickr.com/photos/bgateb/sets/72157651273548765/

i'll have more sample images soon.

RGF · Mar 11, 2015

I see 2 black lens amongst the white ones

Chisox2335 · Mar 10, 2015

R1-7D said:
bholliman said:

Mt Spokane Photography said:

BTW You can order one from Canada for considerably less if you need it right away. The price in US dollars runs around 80% of the Canadian dollar right now, or around $1920.

http://www.cameracanada.com/enet-cart/product.asp?pid=9524B002

Click to expand...

Any duties apply for shipping to the US? Any idea of shipping cost?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Under our free trade agreement there should be no duty on camera equipment. It's one of the few things about the agreement that actually benefits consumers.

There will still be state taxes. Shipping will probably be reasonable too.

I HIGHLY a recommend ordering from The Camera Store if you order from Canada. The level of service from them is simply amazing.

Will it come with a USA warranty card? Not thrilled with the 7 day return policy.

sagittariansrock · Mar 10, 2015

privatebydesign said:
sagittariansrock said:

privatebydesign said:

Elac2 said:

To Privatebydesign... I had not thought to use a 1.4 TCR on my 24TSe II, other than the resulting hit of Max aperature, any other "side effects" you'd report? Sounds like a great solution.
And with repose to to the thread, I would love to see a second gen' 45TSe with the same axial rotations as my 24.

Click to expand...

None that I know of, though some people have said the 1.4TC MkIII (the one I use) is so close a fit that the rubber ring on the end actually brushes the rear lens element, but nobody has ever reported any damage that I have seen, and I have looked!

The IQ from the 24TS-E MkII and 1.4TC MkIII is much higher than both the 24TS-E MkI alone and the FD 35TS.

Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Is this true for both the 17 and 24mm TS-Es or just the 24mm one?

Click to expand...

Which bit!

Both 24TS-E MkII and 17TS-E take the Canon MkI, MkII and MkIII 1.4 and 2X TC's without interference and retain full tilt and shift function. I haven't seen anybody say the 17 has as close a fit as the 24, I use the 17 and 1.4 TC MkIII all the time and infrequently with the 2X TC MkII.

The IQ from the 17TS-E and 1.4TC MkIII is higher than the 24mm TS-E MkI.

Ah, I was wondering who asked the vague question and realized it was me... :-X
I was thinking about the brushing rear element part. I am away from my extenders at the moment (and from more than half my gear)

fair tomorrow · Mar 10, 2015

I'm looking for a budget video setup for my 60D... has anyone try flying with the 24mm 2.8. eventually i want to get a tokina 11-16 in thr future. also I am curious if I should get a fly cam nano or fly cam jr? What are the differences.

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 10, 2015

Unfortunately, its common for third party flashes to be incompatible with newer model Canon DSLR's. When a flash model is still in production, a firmware update may be developed, but a out of production flash may not work on newer bodies.

I've bought Sigma EF compatible lenses that became doorstops as well for the same reason, they did not work on Canon DSLR's and could not be updated. It was even worse for those who bought Quantaray rebranded Sigma lenses.

Tamron has not been hit so hard this way, they have had a couple of lenses with this type of issue, but Sigma's entire lineup would not work when the change from EOS film to EOS DSLR's happened. I had five Sigma's and a couple of Quantarays, and only one could be upgraded. I dumped the rest.

Mt Spokane Photography · Mar 10, 2015

-Gamer- said:
Hello, I just got a Pixma Pro 10 yesterday and after several hours figuring stuff out (downloading the right software, etc) as my cd/dvd drive is not working. I finally was able to print a test print.

My issue is that after I made a print, on one side of the print the border is cut off, there's like only a hair's width of a border on the left side its like someone cut off the border on the one side with a pair of scissors I'm printing in Landscape orientation if that helps. So only three sides have the white border. I used Canon's Print Studio Pro as well as printing from Lightroom. Printing from Lightroom left a tiny bit more border on the left side but far from matching the opposite border.

Any help appreciated

It sounds like a case of settings. Lightroom lets you view the image as it will print, and also lets you control the borders.

However, if you try to place text in a white area on the margin, it can get cutoff.

Lightroom 5.X

1. I set the aspect ratio of the print in the develop module to match the paper, and crop the image if needed.
2. In the print window, first go to page setup, and select paper size. I like to set it to borderless.
3. In the layout setting and make sure the cell size is correct for the paper you are using. Then adjust all 4 borders. You might find that there is 0.01 in difference between top and sides, but this is not visible.

It should print just as you see it.

PureClassA · Mar 10, 2015

http://www.canon-asia.com/snapshot/eos-5ds-5dsr-691/3/

http://www.canon-asia.com/snapshot/eos-5ds-5dsr-693/

More teasers.

cayenne · Mar 10, 2015

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
;D

Click · Mar 10, 2015

Thanks for sharing mackguyver.

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