Posts

verysimplejason · Sep 28, 2015

unfocused said:
ben805 said:

The Versatility of the 24-105 is very hard to beat... I'd rather have the extra range than an extra stop...

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And that's my dilemma. I expect that 90% or more of the time, I'm shooting this lens at either 24mm or 105mm. I need that extra reach. Yeah, I wish the 24-105 were faster, but I just can't see a 24-70 for my purposes.

I've shot with the older 24-70L mark 1 and 24-105L. Versatility and weight brought me back to 24-105L. It's my favorite lens and most used lens for events. Using strobes, I always use my primes. For events, the high ISO capability of my 6d is mostly enough.

scrup · Sep 28, 2015

I don't see the point of a lower specced M. What can they take away? They should just continue building the M2 and sell that at the M1 firesale price if they are trying to hit a price point.

The next M should be the M4. Same ergonomics with improved autofocus and responsiveness. Price needs to be thought out as Sony currently gives better bang for buck.

EF to E mount adapters are getting cheaper and focusing is getting faster with them. This time next year adapters will have quite comparable speeds to that of some native canon bodies. It be one less reason to get a canon body.

Roo · Sep 28, 2015

Location, location, location. The scenery helps, especially when the cricket is boring ;D

NancyP · Sep 28, 2015

Fun photo. Too bad it wasn't a Catbird on that Catfish sculpture. (Catbird is an American mimicry bird that is not nearly as tuneful as its relatives the mockingbird and brown thrasher, but it does mimic some and then finishes off the broken song with a harsh cat-like mew. Catfish is so named from the whisker-like barbels on the face of the fish).

ben805 · Sep 28, 2015

35L II is a significant upgrade from my old 35L, center to border sharpness is superior to my 100L IS Macro, 85L II, and 70-200 2.8 IS II. Stopping down the aperture get very little to no improvement in sharpness and contrast. Color and bokeh similar to 85L II, and AF is the most consistent and accurate out of all my L lens, I think the 35L II broke several ranks and it has now become my reference for the rest of my arsenal to measure up to.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/13715639@N07/

LovePhotography · Sep 28, 2015

neuroanatomist said:
LovePhotography said:

Would like it to be the heaviest and steady enough necessary to do astrophotography and long exposure river water (Series 3 or Series 4 for EOS plus 600mm?). But, obviously don't want it to be heavier than necessary.
If I get the full enchilada Gimbel, would I also want the BH-55 ball head for "walking around" or wide angle?
What about the Series 4leveling base ( http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop/Leveling-Bases/TA-4-LB-HK-Series-4-Leveling-Base-with-Platform.html ), and the long lens support Y-shaped thing? http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/Shop/Long-Lens-Support-Packages/Lens-Support-Pkg-dual-Quick-Release.html
Which are the best multi-purpose rails to get for Canon EOS, and lenses?

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I'll save the 'ultimate setup' for the end.

IMO, the 3-series is plenty robust for a 600mm lens + 2x TC. The 4-series came out after I bought my TVC-33, but I would have made the same decision.

I think the leveling base is a great addition - really makes starting with a level platform a snap. Be aware that the long-handle base precludes the using lowest leg setting (retracted with widest spread), so instead of ~4" minimum height you can only get down to ~13" with the platform slightly tilted (2 legs at widest, one leg more angled, leveling base can't quite compensate for the tilt) or ~23" with all three legs at the same steeper angle setting.

The long lens support system is essentially useless with the side-mount gimbal configuration. It might help with stability with a full gimbal, but the side mount is plenty stable and as I stated earlier, most shots with at the 600 II are at shutter speeds where vibration isn't a big concern.

If you get a rail, which one will depend on your use. I have the MPR-CL II rail as a nodal slide. Was there something else you planned to use a rail for? Or perhaps you were referring to the body and lens plates? If so, for the body I prefer an L-bracket (and I love the 1D X version, since it's modular with an upright portion that can be detached and the hex key stores right in the base). Definitely get the dedicated plate for your camera, note that you need different ones for a gripped body. For the lenses, get the recommended plates either from RRS or Wimberley (both are equally good, I have a mix). Exception is for a supertele, I prefer the RRS replacement foot.

LovePhotography said:

What about giving up the center column for stuff like portrait work where an inch or two up or down gives an entirely different look, and time is of the essence when it comes to sometimes figity subjects? I've always used my dad's 1950's era Quick-Set tripods which I have found to be incredible for the money (free in my case) but also available for under $70 on ebay. They all have center columns, so I'm wondering what portrait work, or certain other work where an inch or two up or down makes a difference (like, perhaps, shooting a softball game through the holes in a chain link fence) would be like...

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For normal use, you really don't want a center column. All it does is reduce stability, even when not raised - there's a reason the higher end legs don't have one.

When doing static portraits (I did a series of individual headshots for an entire office group), a center column would come in very handy. RRS does sell one for the 3-series legs, you can swap out the leveling base for the center column (I may pick one up at some point, but only for occasional portrait use).

LovePhotography said:

It sounds like you could pretty easily spend $5000 on a complete RRS tripod rig, which I find rather astounding. It's a little like golf clubs. Golf clubs can't do a damn thing, yet they can cost more than the top-of-the-line Dell home computer, which has enough ability to send a man to the moon... LOL

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I've spent right around that $5K figure with RRS. It's an expensive hobby.....

LovePhotography said:

Okay, so, if for 2016 I wanted the ultimate RRS set up (but not redundant), for EOS DSLR and anything between 8mm and 600 with 1.4 TC, if you don't mind, what would that include?

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In fact, for me the setup would be pretty much what I have. TVC-33 with leveling base (the one with the clamp, and dovetails on the ballhead and gimbal), PG-02 LLR for the supertele, BH-55 LR, MPR-CL II to use the ballhead for single row panos or the gimbal for multirow panos. MC-34 monopod with the Pro head (screw clamp, the MH-01 now because the MH-01 pro isn't made any more) for hiking with the 600 II. B150-B/LMT Macro Rail, works with collared and non-collared lenses. L-plate(s) for camera(s), lens plates for collared lenses, replacement foot for 600 II. I also have the TQC-14 + BH-30 LR as a travel tripod, which is much easier to get on a plane and plenty sturdy for everything short of the 600 II (and it will even hold that in a pinch, although less stable than I prefer).

Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I'm gonna print it out and save it for my Xmas or February 2016 after property taxes paid celebration!

)

blanddragon · Sep 28, 2015

Snark Warning... Oh yes please a bounce flash and let's have a swivel display too. That way it can be something else to break or snap off. End of snark... For me, the flash on the 7D has been the least used feature ever. I just don't care for the on axis flash look in my portraits. I've also had issues with 'crap' getting under the mechanics on the 7D. I would rather see a split ring focus screen on my 7D Mk III/5D Mk III/IV. YMMV.

Viggo · Sep 28, 2015

TeT said:
Synics said:

I used to have the 35L. Sold it, picked up the Sigma 35 and never looked back. This lens is pretty much perfect in every way. It nails perfect focus every time on both my 5d2 and 5d3 with no adjustments needs. Every picture is extremely sharp, crisp, and magical. It is my most favorite lens. It has made me a lot of money. IMO I would never fork out twice he money for something that is slightly better on some chart. There is so much other stuff I could put my money into. But that's just me.

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We are hoping for more than slightly better, and more than on just the chart... Still not a lot of solid comparisons out there as of yet... and many are hoping for all this because the 50 is due soon and this should be a preview of that.

Time will tell...

I don't know how other people feel, but a comparison to the Sigma isn't important as I already own it twice and know that I can't use it. I really like the mk1, so when I see the big step up from that, it's really all I need. A guy in the other thread going on now posted cats and dogs on Flickr and they look killer!

Tugela · Sep 26, 2015

I would be pretty surprised if they sold many of these lenses with an M mount. Fast primes is more the domain of the prosumer market, who probably don't buy cameras like the EOS-M, other than as a travel camera.

Click · Sep 25, 2015

Jack Douglas said:
I read CR for the humour. Never lets me down. Pretty educational to, thanks to all of you guys.

+1

Thanks guys. I learn a lot here.

9VIII · Sep 25, 2015

I just upgraded to IOS 9 and the home screen is cut off on the sides.

Edit: Ok its working better now, I can scroll left and right, so maybe that was user error. Though it still won't zoom out to fit the full page width. (this is an iPad reading the Desktop formatting)

No Mayo · Sep 25, 2015

Beautiful!!!! What an amazing creature and such a nice pose you were able to capture. Very well done!!!!

privatebydesign · Sep 25, 2015

Hector1970 said:
Tinky said:

You can also shoot into mirrors without your reflection using the shift function, or shoot around undesired street furnature etc.

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If Tinky is still around could you elaborate on this.
I was wondering how you use the lens to shoot into a mirror without your reflection using shift.

I really like it as a landscape lens. It slows you down and makes you think more about compostion and what you want to have in focus. It's great for getting that depth of field you need to have near and far away things in focus.
Where's difficult is with metering once you start tilting and shifting. A bit of trial and error is require.
Exposure compensation is handy for getting it right by trial and error.
I don't regret getting it.
I always bring it on a landscape shoot and generally it deliverer the best shots.
My only advice is don't tight the screws tightly.
Tighten them just enough that it the lens doesn't move on you.
If they get jammed you are in trouble and its expensive to fix.
When you finish after using you should probably loosen them.

Set the camera up just to the side of the mirror, then use shift to center the mirror in the frame, done.

You can do exactly the same thing with a wide angle lens and crop in post.

TexPhoto · Sep 25, 2015

REX18552 by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

SE9A1341 by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

SE9A0716 by RexPhoto91, on Flickr

scottkinfw · Sep 25, 2015

Well I'll just wipe off my poopy 5DIII and get a new a7r II- not!

Ozarker · Sep 24, 2015

Beautiful photos!

Sporgon · Sep 24, 2015

9VIII said:
Those people had better be courting Sigma like a beggar trying to win the heart of a princess.

First company to feature rock solid AF with Sigma lenses wins.

Well let's hope that the Sigma 18-35's performance on the K-3 isn't an indication of what we might expect: reports are that its AF accuracy is dire - virtually unusable, unlike on the Canon and Nikon.

rfdesigner · Sep 24, 2015

I do hope Canon produce some decent competition to the Epson L1800.

leGreve · Sep 24, 2015

Cinema 5D just published a test that shows that the C300 II has to stops less of DR than promised. What an awful start for that camera. More or less they come out saying that the C300 II pretty much is (only?) as good as the FS7, but atleast the FS7 has 240fps to go for it where Canon is still slacking behind with 60fps.

https://www.cinema5d.com/canon-c300-mark-ii-review-dynamic-range/

And then this:

I must also mention: Curious about the 120fps (crop) mode in 2K I found that it’s actually very soft (think 720p) making it much less usable. Personally I expected much more from the Canon C300 Mark II.

Come on Canon!

If I was in the market for a camera just now, I would look past Canon and check out Ursa 4.6K or Sony.

Valvebounce · Sep 24, 2015

Hi Maximilian.
So true, but you cannot unring the bell!

There was a time when cars came without heaters as standard (amongst other things), would you buy one (even a convertible) without AC these days, another victory to marketing!

Cheers, Graham.

Maximilian said:
GMCPhotographics said:

...
Once upon a time we wasn't fussed about histograms and blown colour channels. Now that we have digital images, we have acquired new desires.

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*rotfl*
And the companies marketing departments clink glasses celebrating their job creating desires where nothing had been.

roel · Sep 24, 2015

great

Mt Spokane Photography · Sep 23, 2015

xps said:
pedro said:

Hi everyone,
There are no intensions for label bashing by posting this.
But it might be a good reason for staying away from A7 series (e.g. A7s for astro as a second body) until this issue gets resolved.
"A Raw file is a Raw file, right? Well, not exactly. Lately, there's been a lot of talk (and a lot of anger) about the compression Sony uses in its Raw files. Compressed Raw files aren't uncommon, but they're usually compressed in a way that retains all the original 'raw' data from the sensor." More here...
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/2834066212/the-raw-and-the-cooked-pulling-apart-sony-raw-compression?utm_campaign=internal-link&utm_source=features-default&utm_medium=homepage-block&ref=features-default

Click to expand...

Maybe Sony reacts on this faster as you can believe...
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/7665355870/sony-brings-uncompressed-raw-to-a7s-ii-and-a7r-ii

Probably not, there have been complaints for many years.

Valvebounce · Sep 23, 2015

Hi midluk.
I think Magic Lantern can read shutter count on most cameras, also DSLR Controller can read many pieces of information from many cameras including shutter count. Even if you have used continuous numbering my understanding is that you still don't get a true shutter count from the image number as it doesn't count the times live view or video are activated.

Cheers, Graham.

midluk said:
martinslade said:

Just checked my 70d - 144949 (purchased in Jan 2014)

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Is there a way to check that in the camera or do you have to count the images (or use the counter in the file names)? I have not found any such option in my 70D.

BTW: Does anybody know if silent shutter mode does influence the life time of the shutter and mirror box?

YuengLinger · Sep 23, 2015

ajfotofilmagem said:
krautland said:

to all those who have called the Canon 1.2 soft and begun using replacements ... which ones do have AF (sorry, Zeiss) and are sharp? Is the Sigma worth checking out? Does it have AF?

I'm getting ready to ebay my Canon off.

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I have the Sigma 50 Art is wonderfully crisp even when used in F1.4. In some bodies Canon, Sigma Art has trouble focusing through the viewfinder (phase-detection), but works well with Live View, and optimally well with Dual Pixel AF.

I know Bokeh is subjective, but for me the quality of the bokeh Sigma 50 Art, is better than the Canon 50L. Yes, the 50L is capable of a larger background blur, but Sigma Art has a smoothness on the boundary of the "balls" Bokeh, which pleases me very much.

Most of us longing for a better 50mm 1.2 have already given the Sigma Art a try. Or several tries. Abject failure with 5DIII AF for me. But the 35mm Art is fine.

Live View? Are you serious?

Anecdotal claims of the Art being more reliable with the 7DII don't convince or impress.

Personally, I found the 50mm Art tended to be a bit dark, harsh...Call it grungy. But adequate--when it hit.

privatebydesign · Sep 23, 2015

Cheekysascha said:
privatebydesign said:

Cheekysascha said:

......would it be worth getting the 14mm? is it a good and sharp lens? so far all the reviews I've read have been good but It's still almost 1900 pounds so I'm trying to see all the pros and cons of it.

Any help/feedback and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Click to expand...

No the 14mm MkII is the worst Canon L lens I ever used. In fact it was so bad I got another thinking it was that individual lens, but it wasn't, both were as bad as each other. Save the money and get the 11-24, it is leagues better, it is in a completely different class to the 14 prime in every way, sharpness, corner performance, CA (which is beyond a joke with the 14 in the corners) flexibility, coatings, contrast, flare, etc, etc.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=977&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=0&LensComp=454&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=2

If you are on a budget then get the old 15mm fisheye and the low cost Fisheye-Hemi Photoshop plugin, it gives better corner sharpness and resolution than the 14 prime for 1/4 the cost, no I'm not kidding, I did several comparisons.

Click to expand...

Oh wow, didn't know that thanks for the info I'll look more into the 11-24 now or even the 15mm fish eye, however right now I'm really leaning towards the 15mm zeiss prime

You might find this comparison interesting, at 16mm and f4 the 11-24 bests the Zeiss, for sharpness/resolution, but loses a touch in CA, though having the 11-24 I know CA is not generally an issue and one that I have so far always easily fixed in post if I need to.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=794&Camera=979&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=2&LensComp=977&CameraComp=979&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=0

It seems unless you need the f2.8 the 11-24 really is the new top gun out there.

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