Posts

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 1, 2013

JPAZ said:
Wow, the Canon made the bee mysteriously appear! I better go spray mine with insect repellant!

Seriously, I've toyed with a mirror lens and do appreciate what you've put up here. Seems on a bright day if what you are striving for is web images and not large prints, there could some use for these lenses.

I bought it because it was cheap, and something I could play with. I bought a used Nikon 500mm about this time last year for $80 and adapted it to canon, and saw similar results before I sold it. You can see the doughnuts in the background.

Nikon 500mm Reflex on Canon 1D MK IV

Mt Spokane Photography · Oct 1, 2013

Don't expect to see much IQ difference between equivalent camera models. Its just not going to happen.
Look instead at lens prices and availability of good used lenses
Look for features you want or will use
Look for availability of third party accessories
Look at Service times and user issues
Look at prices
Look at resale prices
Try the product out if possible to see how it fits in your hands, and check the layout of buttons and menu screens.
We are all different and we value different things differently, so get whats right for you.

Vern · Oct 1, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
Vern said:

I use a RRS L-bracket and two clamps to attach the Wimberly side-kick to a Gitzo monopod. IMO the advantage of a gimbal type head is the same on a monopod as a tripod - no lens flop and a lot easier to direct the lens at the target - especially for birds above your head.

Click to expand...

I'll have to give that a try. Since I have the RRS leveling base with clamp on my tripod (to switch between gimbal and BH-55), my RRS side gimbal already has a dovetail on the bottom, so I can just lock that into the clamp on my monopod head.

That should work fine. The L-bracket creates a bit more offset than needed but the side gimbal should come out centered above the monopod (I think). I have the full RRS gimbal w the leveling base, so haven't tried that on a monopod (even I might consider that overkill). I suggested to Wimberley that they consider a right angle bracket for the side-kick for just this purpose - they 'put it on the list'.

KarstenReis · Oct 1, 2013

The new CPS page went up today. The evaluation loan period is going to be 10 days, not 7 days like previously mentioned. http://www.cps.usa.canon.com/loans/loans.shtml

Dylan777 · Oct 1, 2013

SPL said:
Nice gift! Very nice of your wife! Happy anniversary! Would love to get one of those cameras, have fun with it!

Thanks SPL,

It's fun to shoot with "vintage" style camera

privatebydesign · Oct 1, 2013

Rui Brito said:
MP-E 65? EF 85 1.2L? Not an expert on Nikon Lenses, but at least those two comes to mind.

TS-E 17, the TS-E 24 is markedly better than the PC-E 24. The 50mm f1.0 and 50 f1.2 both with AF have no Nikon equivalent. Until the recent Nikon 80-400 the Canon 100-400 won a lot of people over, but even now the Nikon lens is much more expensive than the Canon.

Nikon had a distinct advantage with flashes until the 600 EX-RT came out, now the Canon system offers more.

Menace · Oct 1, 2013

scott said:
CR00 said:

2 bodies or as back up

Click to expand...

just planing - but what would be a good complementary camera for the 6D

Another 6D - exact controls and lay outs etc.
Or
A 70D if on a smaller budget / extra reach is required. All depends on what you shoot and how you shoot.

My personal preference would be the first option.

mackguyver · Oct 1, 2013

fxk said:
Anyone can call themselves a pro - there isn't a test or license.

Yep, they don't audit or anything, I was just quoting the official line

fxk said:
One body is the cost of a Gold membership.

I don't understand what you mean - it's $100/year for Gold.

fxk · Oct 1, 2013

Orangutan said:
candc said:

no i am not saying its cheating, what i am saying is that it is more rewarding to me to recognize and hit that decisive moment than it is to pick from a sequence

Click to expand...

If the human species were interested only in maximal results we wouldn't have many of our sports. Why run when you can drive? Why drive when you can fly? For many people accomplishing a goal with a specific limitation is rewarding all by itself. Consider the following: race-walking, joggling, caber-tossing, classic car rallies, bi-plane races, many forms of classical music composition, haiku poetry, etc. It even happens in photography where photographers will take their modern digital beast in the field, but limit themselves to 36 shots for the day as an exercise in careful composition and exposure (i.e. learning to take time to fully appreciate a frame before pressing the shutter release)

Short of "spray and pray," my goal is usually to get the best possible shot, but I completely respect your desire to practice the "one shot" technique when you feel so inclined. I would only suggest you experiment with other methods because everyone should taste unfamiliar food once in a while.

Also good analysis.

Axilrod · Oct 1, 2013

I wouldn't bother with ALL-I, there is no difference in image quality and the file sizes are ridiculously huge. Yes they play back faster in an editor, but the H.264 IPB files play back just fine in FCPX or Premiere with no transcoding.

ablearcher · Oct 1, 2013

What Dave_NYC said - you need to adapt to a location every time you shoot. Most of the time you can scout the location before the day, so you will have a game plan which FL to pick. I'm in the same situation with my two bodies and the way i see it, 7D is not really the best option for any indoor events. I've used it for quite a long time (was one of the first 7D adopters) and yes, you can mange considering good lenses, flash, etc. But right now i can see a significant difference in IQ comparing to 5DIII.

In general, for now I keep (just like others suggested here) a wider end on my FF body and a longer lens on 7D. I also try to pair 7D with a prime whenever possible. Most of the time I use two lens setup for indoor ceremonies 35L+ 85/1.8. But thats mostly for indoor ceremonies. For outdoor I do the opposite - 10-22 on crop and 70-200 on FF. 7D is perfectly fine for my needs when it comes to outdoor locations. Its the indoor when I see the limitations.

sanj · Oct 1, 2013

aj1575 said:
neuroanatomist said:

SDPhotography said:

You have to admit he is good at what he does...

Click to expand...

Yes, he is. But what he 'does' (as in, does for a living) is not photography, nor is it teaching photography or reviewing gear. It's running a for-profit website. Controversial statements generate website hits and ad revenue. Having people act as unwitting shills is great for KR's 'growing family'.

Click to expand...

I completly agree with you on this one. !

I do not. His site is full of reviews and tips for the 'normal' photographer.

fragilesi · Oct 1, 2013

daniela said:
Much thanks for all your replies and advice!

As mentioned, I talked to the shop manager and I can return the 70D and get my money back.
The shop is ok, they would have exchanged the camera. But they do not have one anymore, as they got just two dozen of them. And Canon told me to get it repaired, what I think is not an good solution for a new camera.

I will order a new one when my money returned to me.

G
Dani

Definitely the right decision. I would never accept a repair of a brand new camera. It's enough money that we should expect it to either work or be replaced if it doesn't.

Hope you don't have to wait too long!

K-amps · Oct 1, 2013

A Guy I work with is into Bird Photography. Since we are all challenged by distances, he mentioned that if I was willing to go manual, that this might be an option:

http://www.swarovskioptik.com/nature/equipment-c210703

It might be a bit pricey, but if it can do decent 1700mm equivalent shots, might be worth the price.

Anyone used this sort of non-standard set-up? What are the results like.

Scott_McPhee · Sep 30, 2013

bornshooter said:
Scott_McPhee said:

privatebydesign said:

Where are you? You are welcome to use mine.

Click to expand...

South Lanarkshire, just below Glasgow in Scotland.

Click to expand...

Hey scott i am in motherwell not far from you

Yip - just 15 minutes down the road - you got a 300?

Drizzt321 · Sep 30, 2013

Cory said:
Thanks. I weighed ff vs crop and decided that I'd like to stick with the 1.6x so just got a 17-55. The results are pretty stunning especially after I turned the IS on after 2 weeks of accidentally having it off. My current lenses are all GREAT and perfect on crop-sensored cameras and replacing the collection isn't in the cards. One day, too, I'll be adding the 100-400.
Most fingers are pointing to the 70D as a good step up without being maybe more complicated than I need (although waiting for a new 7D isn't out of the question either).
Much appreciated.

We don't exactly know what the new 7D specs will look like even if there's been a lot of speculation. We don't even have a good time frame for when it will be announced, much less available to purchase. So unless you are find waiting until the next year probably to hear what it will be, I wouldn't wait for the 7D2. Just go for the 70D if that will suit you well.

westr70 · Sep 30, 2013

Very informative thread. Got some good ideas to consider.

surapon · Sep 30, 2013

Mt Spokane Photography said:
There are a number of patents from many camera companies for interchangeable sensors, but so far, the idea has been impractical simply because new technology requires additional connections and electronic speeds that were not foreseen two or three years earlier, and getting tied to out of date technology isn't something engineers want to do.

Right now, many sensors are switching to 8 channel readouts, what will be have in 3 years? 12, 14, or 16 channel, and what speeds? The motherboard and processor tie you down to todays technology pretty well. It also ties down any improvements in autofocus, video, or nr among other things.

Its not really such a good idea when you think about how much it shackles you to obsolete technology..

Its hard to believe that we will see practical interchangeable sensors unless its just for easy replacement of a damaged part.

+ 100, Sir
Thanks for great Infor.
Yes, Where they build the Camera, They must Build in a clean room and Anti-static / control area with the clean cover all dress, and try to prevent the dust to go inside the camera bodies or Lenses. If we try to Change the Sensor in our home, Yes, Will be 1000 of the UFO. over the beautiful sky of our beautiful pictures.
Than you, Sir, Dear Mt Spokane Photography .
Have a great day, Sir.

Surapon

PS. Plus the Camera company , want us to buy/ spend the money for the new camera body with the new sensor , for pay the cost of their new building too.

Sep 30, 2013

I live near the falls, been there many times. Biggest problem I have these days is trying to shoot anything without getting picture full of various tablets being held up to take photos. People don't think twice about stepping in front of you and holding up their tablet to get a better photo!!

tomscott · Sep 30, 2013

Its a lens I have always been curious about, seems a good deal I like the 24-105mm IQ.

But I cant see it being a good travel companion its too big, heavy and conspicuous.

Although the weight difference between it and a 24-70/70/300mm combo isnt a lot, the weight is more widespread across the body as one will most likely be in a bag compared to say the 28-300mm sitting by your side all day even on a black rapid strap.

I would like to have a go with one, but for the price I would prefer to have the dedicated lenses.

Also it could be a good candidate to update, there are much better weight saving materials now and better elements but price would def shoot up and its expensive enough now lol

duydaniel · Sep 30, 2013

If there is nothing showing at f64, there will always be something shown under microscope
One rule in photography is knowing where to draw the line.
To me, it is f22 max if I really picky about dust.

You probably won't be able to find a camera spotless at f36

jon_charron · Sep 30, 2013

This is an old thread but I also have a Canon 6D and have been happily shooting video with 16GB Etreme 45/Mbps cards. Last week I bought a 32GB Extreme Pro card with 95/Mbps and paid dearly for it, but it crashes just as above 2 out of 3 times I shoot. It's very frustrating as I do a lot of interviews. This card was also almost $100 from Samy's Camera here in LA.

Do I need to take the card back? I don't even know if that's possible or if I have to send it to Sandisk.

9VIII · Sep 30, 2013

dgatwood said:
9VIII said:

The bottom line is that USB2 at 10-20MB/s is terrible, and should generally be avoided if you care about data transfer time.

Click to expand...

USB2 performance should not be that slow unless your card reader is junk (or, if the reader is your camera, unless the manufacturer doesn't know how to implement USB device mode worth a darn).

The peak theoretical speed for USB2 is about 60 MB (480 megabits) per second. In practice, at least with hard drives, you usually start to run up against CPU overhead, IRQ sharing, and other performance bottlenecks before you actually approach that theoretical limit—somewhere in the mid-300 megabit range, IIRC. That said, if you're really getting only 10 MB (80 megabits) per second, there's something seriously wrong....

Are you sure you're not thinking about USB 1.1's 10 megabit limit?

I'm pretty sure I was thinking of flash drive write speeds (http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/usb-thumb-drive-charts/Copy-Benchmark-Images-Write,2301.html), which is probably more due to slow flash memory than the interface.
You're right about read speed though, which is more what we're concerned with here, the good ones get about 35MB/s read speed. 35MB/s isn't incredible but it is a lot better. A quick look through Google shows roughly the same thing for USB2 card readers.

Cali_PH · Sep 30, 2013

I recently spent 3 days shooting thousands of shots for a timelapse video with my 6D. I mainly shot in aperture mode,
And the exposures remained consistent when the lighting did. Only problem was pre-dawn shoots when the balloons were shooting their flames on and off, but that's normal, I should have shot all manual at those times.

Tara Copp · Sep 29, 2013

Thank you guys! I was shooting a wedding all day yesterday - will try all of your suggestions tonight - and if nothing works, I've still got 2 weeks on the repair warranty

Posts

Posts

Filter

Forum statistics

Gallery statistics