Upper/Lower Antelope Canyon Help

scottkinfw said:
I was just posting about this on another thread. I was in the upper, very crowded with lots of iPads, etc.

Bring an excellent tripod and cable release, and be good with long exposures. Also, avoid aiming directly up at the light through the top of the slot- lots of glare and ghosts. You may have to wait for a a chance to get the shot while traffic dies down, but worth the wait. Horseshoe bend I went to late in the day, not near the golden hours and there was a bad glare, which plagues the scene at all other times.

One thing you may want to try is overland canyon tours with Charlie who only takes three serious photographers on a private tour of Canyon X. He can take you to The Fins, and horseshoe bend etc. Canyon X isn't as great as the Antelopes, but he will take you there too.

Here are some of my pics. Note the glare and ghosts at Horseshoe late in the day- unavoidable due to orientation of the river vs. sun. This was shot with 14 mm Samyang- and you will need at least this wide and preferably wider on full frame.

sek

Very nice shots of the antelope. You can shoot the entire horseshoe with a 20 or 21mm though, and you will be able to avoid the glare with the hood. Also, golden hour is a good time to shoot there, but a grad ND filter is strongly recommended, as I've realized in hindsight.
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Reasons to get a ST-E3-RT?

JonAustin said:
IsaacImage said:
Without AF assist ST-e3 is useless for me. Don't see any reason to buy it.
I would only consider purchasing an ST-E3-RT if I could get it for a "steal."

At the time I felt the same way. I "stole" mine for ~$150, and won't likely ever go back to 600s as master.

It's possible I don't push my AF hard enough. I haven't needed AF assist as I don't have any problems locking focus in low to dim light.
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Should I buy 6d or 5MkIII?

jdramirez said:
privatebydesign said:
MrVeda said:
Wow - thanks for all the great feedback - much appreciated.

I'm leaning towards the 6d with the Canon 16-35mm UWA using Aperature for post editing. I've read tons to support the extra cost over the 17-40mm is well worth the investment. The quality of pics are used primarily for online marketing but much more high res than for MLS purposes. Pics have to be uploaded in high res for full screen slideshows.

Is there a specific uv filter that will give a good all round use for interior and exterior shots to suit stills of rooms?

Thanks again!

For real estate shooting f8 and smaller, there is absolutely zero benefit of the 16-35 over the 17-40, indeed the 17-40 has a better zoom range as 35-40 is more useful than 16-17, trust me on this one, the 17-40 is a better lens for you (and me).

Even full sized tv screens are only 2 and a bit MP, a computer screen a bit more. A 4K screen, which almost nobody has is a mere 8MP, so keep perspective on what you actually need IQ wise, these forums do have a lot of people very gear and ultimate IQ orientated, overkill is expensive!

As for the software, I got on much better with Lightroom than Aperture, and everybody that makes imaging software plugins makes a version for Adobe, whereas Apple and independent developers seem to let Aperture slide too often.

Depending on the results you are after Aperture and Lightroom might not give you the capabilities you need, if you link to some images you would like to achieve I'll tell you what techniques were used to do it, this will help you plan your overall strategy.

I don't use UV filters, with such varying light sources encountered in real estate, and the fact that it is not a demanding climate (dust, dirt, ran, sea spray etc) they can only diminish your output. A polarizer can be a very useful filter though for controlling reflections and glare on wood floors, counter tops etc.

I was reading the 4K sony post earlier with the 12mp camera... and I believe they were saying is that 4K=12mp because it was a 1:1 ratio... pixel for pixel.

I don't care.. but I want to make sure it is right before I lock 12 MP = 4K before I lock it into my memory.

A7s stills - 4240 x 2832 = 12MP (3:2 aspect ratio)
4K video (UHDTV) - 3840 x 2160 = 8.3MP (16:9 aspect ratio)

Phil.
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Not sure which Canon body to get

Valvebounce said:
Hi JD.
I think there is at least one person on here that can prove the reverse of that statement, a poor photographer can get lesser results using adequate gear! I am of course talking about myself! ::)
Struggling to become a better photographer.

Cheers Graham.

jdramirez said:
The fact of the matter is that a good photographer can get more then adequate results using lessor gear... and while the 6D is probably the best option, money wasn't described as a constraint.

When I first took up golf... I had a crap set I bought for $100... I played the crap out of the clubs and I did pretty well with a patchwork set. I'd compare that with my XS and 50mm f/1.8.

After a few years... I upgraded my clubs to a $300 driver (which was 15 years ago... so after inflation... $500ish) and a set of irons from Taylormade and a putter and wedges...

I wanted the gear not to be the reason I had a crappy shot... So... my 5D mkiii and lenses are comparable to that. When I screw up a shot... I KNOW I'M TO BLAME. It sucks... I liked when it was my XS or 60D that were the problem.
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Now that the D4s is introduced, what's next at Canon?

CarlTN said:
ktatty said:
had the d4 and d800 set up for a while. I moved to canon because i wanted the 5d iii over the d800 for my travel camera, faster fps and better auto focus system. I got the 1dx a year later to shoot indoor sports, the 5d could do it, it just wasn't as fast as the d4. I bit the bullet and bought the 1dx- i couldn't believe the autofocus ability of it-really a step above the d4.
I did watch the same review you metnitoned (very long) on tube by two photographers that were testing the d4 vs 1dx and at the end the long time nikon user decided to go with the 1dx because the autofocus speed was in a "different class" than the nikon.
I agree with him on that. I also think the 1dx does a better job with metering over the d4.
The canon rep was in our local camera shop a few weeks back and he told us canon updated the firmware in the 1dx and they did not plan to upgrade the body.
It will be interesting to see if the d4s' new autofocus system has caught up the 1dx.
I never really understood why nikon put the qxd card format on the camera. Both are great cameras, but i think the 1 dx has the edge right now.

Interesting, yours is obviously inline with a consensus opinion of 1DX and Canon owners...but definitely not of die hard Nikon fans (I don't know any personally). It's cool that you are a Canon convert!!

In the test we both watched on youtube...I can't help but think that the respective lens's autofocus speeds played a major role (especially since they were depending on the elements going from close to distant focus, back and forth, over and over). Nikon...well they just can't make lenses like Canon, and I suspect really none of their lenses can make use of whatever AF speed ability the D4 or D4s, has. But unless someone, I don't know...tests an "identical" Sigma or Tamron lens on a D4s and a 1DX (that somehow also has consistent and "fast" AF...a tall order!), there's no getting around using a Nikon lens on the Nikon body. Obviously a third party lens is not a good way to test either camera's AF capability, so it's a bit of a conundrum.

Unless of course, you are of the opinion that Nikon's 70-200 f/2.8, is in every way equal to Canon's current "version 2" 70-200. I doubt it is, but I really have no experience...yet.

I wonder why you would favor a 5D3 as a travel body over the D800? Unless when you travel you are only shooting sports action. Usually "travel" implies vacationing...and shooting scenery, landscapes, etc...which the D800 would be superior for doing (assuming you have really long, skinny fingers, for the Nikon ergonomics).

As for the Sony card, obviously it ties in with using image sensors designed by Sony (and possibly other components too, I don't know?). They claim the Sony card is faster than CF cards, but I have no idea.

I agree the d800 is a better landscape camera, but not as versatile as the 5d. traveling with kids so you may shoot scenery one day and the next day your trying to get shots of them on a ride at Disney;my kids are not in to sitting still for pictures.
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Black Rock Desert and North Rim Grand Canyon

Hi Scott.
I was using a 300D with 18-55 and a Cosina 100-300. I guess that 24 might be wide enough as I was using the equivalent of 28mm but there is always something either side that could be in the shot. I found it was quite bright once the light hit the bottom so the necessity for wide aperture is not so high, and the bottom is practically pitch black before the light hits it, or perhaps that might be when you want to shoot the bottom. :D The 100-300 was a bit short, I would like to go back with my Sigma 150-500 for another look, I was trying to pick out the mule tracks and other paths worn in to the scenery for some reason!
I have only been the once, and I was being escorted by a friend from Phoenix who was recommending viewing points, we were at the South Rim so North Rim is an unknown quantity.
Thought some more local folks would have chimed in by now! Hope my info, limited though it is, is of some help to you.

Cheers Graham.

scottkinfw said:
Thanks Graham, I will have it covered then. I will plan to stay a couple of days and of course be there before sunrise and sunset. Would you recommend a 300 (2.8 II) or a 400 (5.6 L) for the long and would you recommend a 14 mm 2.8 Samyang with fully manual ( including focus ) or is the 24- 70 2.8 II Canon short enough?

Also, I don't plan to hike, but may take a mule trip. Any special photo spots to recommend?

Thanks So much.

Valvebounce said:
Hi Scott.
The canyon is great, if you are there over night you have to do dusk and dawn. If you want to see anything in the bottom you need a long lens, and perhaps obvious but I will say it anyway a wide angle for the view at the top!
Can't help wih the other destinations, sorry.

Cheers Graham.
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Advatages of a hybrid viewfinder?

I would personally be very content with the implementation of a hybrid EVF in the way that Fuji has done it on the x100s and xpro1.

There are plenty of advantages that I love about having a good EVF (most of which have already been talked about previously). However, the biggest downside (IMO) is having to have it run all the time which is a battery killer. Merely having the option to switch back and forth would be huge.

The other thing that bothers me (which isn't a deal breaker) is the fact that one of it's big advantages can also be one of it's disadvantages in different shooting situations. What I'm referring to is the live preview of your image based on your settings. In most scenarios, this is great. But when you are shooting flash, the advantage becomes nil and actually is a nuisance since the VF goes dark in many scenarios as it cannot account for the light you will be adding.

Before any says it, yes, I know the preview can be turned off. But having to go through menus to turn it on and off in a dynamic shooting scenario can be a real pain.

So for me, there are pros and cons to each type of VF. A hybrid VF is the solution to that as it provides the end user with a choice. On my Fuji, it can be done with the flick of a hardware switch.
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Canon MR-14ex II manual now available.

There are were a lot of blank spaces left when Canon announce the MR-14ex replacement. Finally now that manual has been available for download, looks like the the MR-14ex II is completely worth it.

Best bit of improvement is ability to install a 67mm diameter filter in front on the ring flash itself.
Adjustable brightness of leds.

here is the link for the manual itself-
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/2/0300014702/01/mr-14exii-im-en-fr-es.pdf

PMIdigital - worth it?

tesign said:
Of course it be great that consumers should know about what is and could be wrong with the product they paid for to use. It certainly helps not wasting my precious time waiting for a bird that comes around in one hour while not knowing we are shooting it with a faulty camera body or lenses.

yes, but that can happen with any piece of equipment, whether bought from an authorized dealer or not.
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How to get studio light on the fly ...

Ha, Ha, Ha---Dear Friends and My teacher.
Well, I quite crazy, But still at the low end of Crazyness----Ha, Ha, Ha.
Two days ago, I and my son Volunteer to shoot at " NAMI ( National Alliance on Mental Illness) Eighth Annual Celebration of Courage. And I go with my DIY Portable Lighting system---Yes, I go Light , on that day, Canon 7D with 70-200 mm. F/ 2.8 L IS and Flash, Canon 5D MK II, with EF 24-70 mm F/ 2.8 L ,with Flash( and Graslon 4100F) and 160 LED light and Photix Odin/ Flash controller, and Canon EOS-M with 22 mm F/ 2.0 on my belly / Fanny Pack---Yes, for 2 hours, I shoot about 450 Photos for them, And My son shoot 250 Photos.
Enjoy.
Surapon

PS. You might ask me = Why do I neede 160 LED light for this job----Yes, Before I go to shoot this NAMI job, I research that Most of Mental Illness People have the effected with bright/ suddenly Flash Light= make them sick. = That why constant LED Light at 50% dimmer= get the best Exposure, and no effected on them.

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Travel charger for Canon LP-E4N battery

I can image a travel charger where the power supply is outside the charging unit - there are many wall (120/240V) to 12V power supplies. The output side is a round/cylindrical plug. Could be a common with a AA charger, ...

Attached to batter would be a much smaller unit - connection to the LP-E4(N) battery and a bit logic necessary. The latter unit I suspect would be no larger than 1 x 1 x 2 inches. If I knew enough electronics I would find an old charger and take it apart to see if this would be possible.
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New Curved Sensor Tech by Sony

dilbert said:
neuroanatomist said:
tolusina said:
Curved sensors are well proven and effective, been in use at least a few million years.

So have the lenses designed for those curved sensors. In the case of a curved camera sensor, current lenses would not work (thus the suggestion of a new 35/1.8 lens for the curved sensor). Given the general performance of Sony lenses, I'm not encouraged by their ability to deliver an ILC based on a curved sensor.

Can you explain why a current lens wouldn't work? I suspect that they will all work just fine. The suggestion of a new 35/1.8 for the curved sensor is just that - a suggestion without understanding.

What I find intriguing is that lenses optimised for curved sensors might be smaller as there is less of a vignetting problem to overcome.

The elements in camera lenses are specifically designed to flatten out the focal plane so that the output of the lens is roughly in focus everywhere on a flat sensor even though the distance from the sensor to the lens is greater near the edges. Some lenses do a better job than others when it comes to flattening the focal plane, hence the reason that some lenses have poor corner sharpness (as I understand it, anyway).

With a lens that is designed to focus light on a flat plane, a physically curved sensor would only cross the lens's focal plane either at a point or in a circular ring. You'd have to add additional optical elements to the lens and/or remove optical elements from the lens to compensate for that. Otherwise, only part of the picture would be in focus.
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Review - Canon TS-E 24 f/3.5L II

Dear Friends.
I have this Awesome Lens since 5/22/2013, And this Beautiful Baby 95% on my 5D MK II almost all the time.
Yes, I have so many Canon EF and L Lenses Plus Sigma and Tamron Lenses, But I fell in love with Canon TS-E 24 mm F/ 3.5 L MK II, for the most sharpness at open wide from corner to corner. YES, Manual Focus, But I set up one focus at center View Finder, And When I turn the focus ring , It will Beep me at the right Focus.---Yes, That are the focussing Method that I use for my Bad/ Old Eyes and get the best focus in every times.
Surapon

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Canon EF24-70mm f/2.8 M2 vs Sony Zeiss 24-70 on Sony a7R body

sdsr said:
Sony/Zeiss don't seem to have figured out how to make a first rate zoom for their A7s yet. If you compared the Sony/Zeiss 55mm 1.8 you would have seen a significant difference too (the 35mm 2.8 as well, probably). But you don't need to attach Canon lens as new/expensive as the Canon 24-70II - you can get fantastic images from many much less expensive Canon lenses on the A7r, even such bargains as the 40mm pancake and 85mm 1.8 - if nothing else, the A7r shows just how good many Canon lenses are!
Fully agree that "Sony/Zeiss don't seem to have figured out how to make a first rate zoom for their A7s yet"
Sony 24-70 proved even worse than I saw in my initial tests.
Did some walk around with this lens on a7R, looked at the images and found that at short focal length images get blurry at the sides of the frame though more or less OK closer to the center of the frame.
I am very disappointed with the Sony 24-70 - seems that this lens more or less could be good for NEX7 and similar but not a good fit at all for a7R.
But Sony/Zeiss 55mm 1.8 is just perfect on a7R .

As for using other cheaper than EF24-70 F/2.8 M2 Canon lenses on a7R I agree with you that excellent results could be achieved with cheaper Canon lenses. For many people with a7R as second to Canon body this could be good solution. I just do not have them. Some of the Canon lenses though not expensive but are the best in their class
For me my EF24-70 F/2.8 M2 is the mostly commonly lens that was used on my 1DX recently and now it is also perfect fit for a7R
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Philosophical question about Sigma Lenses - Why?

AlanF said:
According to Sigma's own official history, they started to produce their first lenses in 1961 but didn't produce their first SLR until 1976.

http://www.sigmauser.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=67

Wonderful link, Thanks, Alan!

Don Haines said:
Sigma (and Tamron) are companies in transition. For a long time (with a few exceptions) both have been known for fairly poor quality optics but at a great price.. Recently, both have been coming out with good to great optics at a good price.... The Sigma ART lenses and the Tamron 150-600 shocked everyone. For wide skies astronomy, I would be very tempted with the 35F1.4... It is supposed to be a great lens, although I have not heard anything about it from the astronomy crowd..

Again, more great lenses to put on my Amazon wish-list.

If you do decide to go into astrophotography, look at tracking mounts.... they will do more to help you than and camera or lens will...

There's a thread here that I've been following that's more of an education on the topic that I hope to join in after I get some deep sky images under my belt.
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Canon PowerShot N100 Official

Hi,
Canon PowerShot N100 is the best camera. The N100 has special canon’s Hybrid Auto Mode features that captures a few seconds of video before you click photos and at the end of the day when you finished clicking images the camera automatically collects all small clips and creates a small movie. Canon N100 has a Mobile Device Connect button that once set up, allow users to connect directly over Wi-Fi to Android and iOS with just a button push. To make the setup easier the N100 has NFC for android users.Key Specifications of Canon Power Shot N100 include 1/1.7 inch 12 MP BSI CMOS sensor, 90 degree tilting 3 inch touch screen, 5X f1.8-5.7 24-120mm lens.
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