Given the refreshed range of none L primes, I'm expecting a 50mm f2.0 IS pretty soon. I'm also expecting a new 100-400mm zoom this year, it must be the oldest yet best selling white lens out there... I'm expecting no change in f along with Hybrid IS - plus a 75% price hike :-/

Canon often does not show a product as discontinued until well after production has stopped.

I've once owned the lens, I bought it cheaply off Craigslist, but never really found a use for it. I also had the Nikon 135mm f/2 DC which was a very impressive lens, (and much more expensive). I ended up selling both a few years ago.

Besides the better focal range on Crop the image stabilizer of the 15-85 outperforms the 24-105L IS.

Thanks for the advice so far. I'm torn between which extender to look at. I've heard to always go with the 1.4 because it will AF with f/4 lenses, and that makes sense. The worry I have is that I don't see myself getting an f/4 lens anytime soon, and I am worried that without the 2x I won't see much of a difference from 200 to 280.

Cali, do you still live in CA? If so, where are some places you'd recommend a photo trip to?

Thanks!

CarrySpeed F1 plate + SpiderHolster kit for ThinkTank belts. (the post on the the F1 works fine with the Spider setup)

Yes, it's a mix and match, but it gives you:
- a built in Arca plate (when you need to shoot from a tripod)
- pockets and bags as needed (lots of options from ThinkTank)
- when you bend forward, your cameras don't swing forward

http://www.carryspeedstrap.com/ProductsView-9.html
http://www.spiderholster.com/prospeed-adapter.html
http://www.thinktankphoto.com/categories/beltstrapharness/belts/pro-speed-belts.aspx

The more I'm shooting between the two, the more I think the DOF issue I originally posted about is due to EF vs. EFS. The problem gets better as focus distance increases and I will chalk that up to rear element to sensor distance difference between the lenses with the DOF phenomena exaggerated at closer focus distance to subject. My old kit 18-55 EF-S lens was exhibiting the same behavior vs. my 24-105L. (sadly the 24-105L didn't look any better than the kit lens on that old 20D body. UGH!!)

I'm thinking poor right side frame performance on the 16-35 is due to it being at it's widest vs. the 10-22 @16mm getting some breathing room along with lens copy variation. (Mine not being that hot). I tested it against another 16-35 at a camera store yesterday which only had one copy and theirs was better on the right side of the frame.

I'm not usually a huge pixel peeper except when I get a new lens. I don't seem to ever get a good copy off the bat with more expensive canon lenses. The 24-105L I initially got with my 6D kit about made me sick to my stomach it was so bad. I like to find out about any possible issues once, then never worry about it again so I can get to more productive things and enjoy taking pictures, but I also like to know where equipment limitations lie.

Availibility: 21st of October 2013

How would the 1dMkIIn fare? Here at least it tends to go for even less than the 5Dc and has far better AF if you just want to try it out. Admittedly it is pretty ancient by now

I'd get the Pro version, Plus at a minimum. On the 5DII, fully automatic testing actually works - you can set it up and walk away (on the 5DIII/1D X/6D, you have to manually change settings on the camera). But to me, the extra tests are very useful for characterizing performance of your camera and lenses. For example, if you buy a new lens, or drop a lens but it 'appears fine' you can test to determine if it's performing well.

Jack Douglas said:

Still, I'd go with the 6D. I've been posting 6D shots for a couple months in case you want to check them out. However, not many are action shots like this one. It's not a very good shot but I'm not a very good photographer either! That's ISO 3200 and a pretty major crop.

6D 300 F2.8 ISO 3200 1250th F13

Jack

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Completely off topic: Isn't that a raven? The beak, you can look through the wings ...

dirtcastle said:

In his second post, he said the ISO was at 640. Even with an underexposed image, that's a lot of noise for ISO 640.

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Thank you, I missed that! Yes, you're right...

If it had the connector for the battery pack like the 565EX does, I'd get them. It helps a ton.

Did you attach the VF Lid when doing the long exposure?
I myself made the experience that a forgotten lid on the VF makes a great difference for long exposure shots.

Frank

I need a couple of replacement batteries for my 1D MkIII. Where do I find the best value? I want Japanese cells, not Chinese. I see prices all over the map. I have found several BLI 347 batteries listed. Anyone found the best battery for the money?

EricPvpi said:

neuroanatomist said:

ronaldbyram said:

I too saw the manual and skimmed thru it. also it has a AUTO ISO feature. looks like Canon is adding some 5D/7D/1D features to the 70D.

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What do you mean by 'a AUTO ISO feature'? Auto ISO is available on pretty much every Canon camera with a digital sensor.

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The nice part with the 70D Auto ISO is you can now set a minimum shutter speed like on the FF cameras. That is an improvement I was waiting for in Av mode when I want to stay faster than 1/60 with the kids.

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That really makes auto ISO really useful. Looks like I can finally use it full time.

So photographers are invited... to pay money for admission to take photos? I'm confused. Would there be credentialing? I'm three hours away and I'm confident I won't be there... but I'm curious what exactly is the deal.

Go back to them and tell them you really want to do it, but you feel fair compensation would be X. Is there any way they can provide you X? They will come back to you with a counter offer or a reiteration of the original offer. It is up to you as a negotiator as to whether you think you can get more.

Dylan777 said:

bholliman said:

By not having a warranty, do yo mean the warranty card was not in the the box?

Just curious, because I recently purchased a 24-70 2.8 II from BigValue Inc. via eBay and there was no warranty card in the box. I just assumed Canon had stopped using the cards and registered the lens on the Canon website. Does not having a card mean there is no warranty?

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I bought mine from Crutchfield(authorized dealer). Warranty card is included.

I said before and I'm going to say it again. PLEASE BUY YOUR NEXT HIGH END CAMERA OR "L" LENS THROUGH AUTHORIZED DEALER PEOPLE. If saving couple hundred $ is so DAM important, then wait for Canon rebates and buy it through authorized dealer.

Yes...you can open a dispute through your CC, Ebay, or Paypal...but the time line takes weeks, sometimes month(s) to solve problem.

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This was the first time I've purchased anything from somebody other than B&H, Amazon or the local camera shop. The purchase price was $150 below the big guys so decided to test the water. Fortunately, the lens is excellent! AFMA W=0, T=+1, very sharp across the frame at all focal lengths. I was able to register the serial number at the Canon registration website and when I called Canon, they said it was covered by warranty.

Kinda old news in a way, the current PureView is 41MP and it'll operate more or less the same way. Basically they take 8MP output images, so it uses pixel binning, and also auto-cropping towards the center of the sensor to 'zoom' without either interpolating or needing an actual optical zoom. By all reports it's very good, but as is said, it's Windows Phone only which is struggling to gain mindshare right now.

10-22 has ran away anyway
Got 15-85. At center I can't really see the IQ difference between 15-85 and 17-85.
I guess being realtively new and not thrown around, my 17-85 might be quite good anyway.
But 15-85 does perform visibly better near edges. I'll do some testing later.

I have the 100mm f2.0 which is a very fast focusing lens. Cheaper than the macro IS as well.

But i think you are missing a trick...

Why augment, you already cover 100 with your 70-200, and at this perspective (car close to distant background) the faster aperture isn't going to do all that much to your depth of field.

Why not think expand instead? I haven't used the 40mm so cannot comment on it's speed, my M's 22 is STM and i wouldn't regard it a speed demon.

A wide or UWA might be a better option, some nice primes out there, like the 35mm f2.0 IS (or even the non Is if you can find) or Sigmas 17-50 f2.8 zoom?

You wont get a different perspective from lenses that your 70-200 already covers.

sanj said:

ADORAMA is the BEST. No questions, discussions.

Do you know that Helen sleeps in shifts to cater to her world wide clients because of the time difference?

Hats off to her. (Yes, I do wear a hat at times. Check my photo in the publications. LOL.)

http://greypartridgefilms.com/wp-content/pdf/Cottars-Terrascape.pdf

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Wow! Thank you so much.....yup; just call me the girl who never sleeps................................

What's the data though put for Digic 6? Dual Digic 5 was good for 227mb/s, so I'm wondering if the single Digic 6 will match these figures.
Oooo...here's a though, if the dual Digic 6 is good for around 340mb/s then a theoretical 1DXII could be good for 12fps @ 28mp.....nice! Or 6.3fps @ 54mp!

alexanderferdinand said:

The argument with the axis: why is the object in focus not affected, but the not in focus are?
Wouldnt this change the axis on the in focus object too?

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Well, thats the magic of the IS

The angle of the plane of focus in relation to the object/camera may be affected, that depends on the way the IS works. If the IS works as a shift element, then the focal plane is not affected. If it works as a tilt element, then there is a minimal change:
If the maximal correctable shift is some 1mm in any direction (my guess, maybe its lower), the subject distance is still 1m, then the angular change of the focal plane is:
0.001/1=tan(alpha), solve for 2alpha, which is approx. 0.002rad or 0.115 degree.
I have no clue how an IS really works...

But more important is the actual position shift of the objects out of focus:
The position change of the far object can also be calculated: 2mm/1000m=x/10mm => x=0,2mm (32 pixel shift on a 5DIII, or some 46 pixel on the 18MP crop sensor as found in the 600D and others)
These are purely theoretical values, as the IS element is surely near the nodal point to lessen this parallax error.

I try to think of CR the next time I get a bad pic due to IS interference.
If you want to force bad bokeh, try the 70-200 or the 24-105 at its maximum focal length, focus on something like a single reed, a flower/fruit in a tree - something that is isolated, small so you get near MFD and has anyway a wild background. At least all pics i got with this IS-bad-bokeh were on such a setup - normally they were visible on the camera LCD so I took it again.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

canon23 said:

Hi All,

I'm looking to save up to get the 5D Mark iii, but have a few questions.

1) how do I determine which camera is of which 'batch' of production since there has been various issues...e.g light leaks?

2) will the 'newest batch of production bodies' already have the most recent firmware updates (as of production)?

3) what other mechanical or firmware flaws should I pay attention to?

Thx!!

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The light leaks were a red herring, nothing to really worry about unless you take photos with the lens cap on. Production was updated a year ago, so there are none in stores (They were recalled and repaired).

Generally, expect a new camera to have the latest firmware. Canon starts shipping bodies with new firmware before the updates are offered to the public.

The only flaws will be random ones that occur in a small number of cases. There is nothing I've experienced that is a systemic flaw.

Basically, there is nothing to worry about, but if you are very concerned, buy your camera from a local dealer, one that will take care of any issues. You can save $$$ by getting one on ebay, but unless its a major dealer, you might have a tough time with service. I bought my 5D MK III on ebay from Adorama when they had a one day special price. Its never had a problem in its 10 months of life.

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+1 with Mt Spokane Photography

I believe "light leak" issue was discovered in early production patches. There is a serial label located at bottom of camera. If the 6th digit is 1,2 or 3 then it belongs to early production patches. Exp. xxxxx1

My 1st 5D III came from VERY 1st PATCH. I'm still shooting with original firmware and original "light leak". I recently bought 2nd 5D III. The major dif. between these two is 2nd 5D III smells much newer. No dif in IQ.