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70d price discussion & poll results

Hannes said:
Looking at the B&H website the 5DIII costs pretty much the same as over here whereas the 6D is a lot cheaper in the US.

This is ot, but I'm also puzzled by this, it's part of the reason why I haven't bought a 6d yet. Maybe it's just demand & supply, i.e. Europeans (in my case: Germans) are shelling out more €€€ for supposedly high iq cameras while a larger part of the US-Americans are happy with p&s or Rebels?
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Gitzo tripod or no?

Jay Khaos said:
It seems like Gitzo is kind of universally accepted as "the best" when it comes to tripods. But if I try my hardest to ignore the fanboy-esque reviews and comments I see about them online, and don't let myself be tempted by their slick branding materials, it seems like there has to be a better and cheaper alternative.

Currently I have a manfrotto (it was around $100). I'm pretty sure it's made out of aluminum. It is sturdy even with my 5d3 w/ 70-200 on it, and that's probably the largest rig I'd ever have on a tripod unless I can afford the 200mm f2 IS someday lol. But the head isnt changable, there is no level, and the head sinks too low when I tilt the body on its side (even when it's as tight as possible).

I like the Gitzo traveler tripod (gt1542t). The weight, max/min height is cool, weight limit is good, but the price is pretty steep even for that one at $670. I went to a local camera shop and looked at them in person, ready to buy one if it proved to be on par with the hype online. The rubber foot stops seemed loose on most of them. One model's legs slid completely out and detached. Small problems, and possibly only because they were abused as floor models. But still, considering the price and their "...forever" tag line, I lost confidence in them. I searched about those issues online and found reviews about the same thing happening to other people.

Does anyone have a tripod in mind that they swear by... built to last, useful features.... lightweight is a plus, but not necessary? Was my experience coincidence and is the Gitzo really as great as it's cracked up to be?? Or is my gut right, and they are over hyped?
You should have a look at Induro tripods. They're very good quality and they look very good. They have padding at the top of the legs for a comfortable grip and they come with a nice bag with enough room at the top for a head.
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NP-E3 - NiMh-accupack for 1Ds ...

Timothy_Bruce said:
Get the Old ones Out and some New eneloops in there :)
If you cant solder yourself let someone else do it for you.
Solltest du in der Nähe von Hamburg sein würde ich das auch für dich machen bei Interesse.

Hi,

nein, nicht gerade, aber die Post findet den Weg auch von Patersberg/Rhein -> Hamburg und retour. Ich würde Dir ein Paket mit inliegendem bezahlten Rücksendeticket schicken, Du müßtest mir sagen was Du für die Zellen und die Arbeit bekommst. Wäre schön, wenn drin ist, was draufsteht. Das weiss man bei den gekauften Packs letztlich nie. Welche Zellen würdest Du verwenden? - Es gibt die Dinger ja mit Fabelwerten an Kapazität.

Jörg
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Canon 70D Reaction

neuroanatomist said:
scrappydog said:
neuroanatomist said:
Let's see...there are xxxxD cameras, xxxD cameras, xxD cameras, 7D, 5-series, and 1-series cameras. Of all those lines, how many have reused sensors? One. Not coincidentally, it's the only line refreshed annually. Think consumers would pay the increased cost to fund development of a new sensor for the xxxD line every year?

Oh, and the T2i has phase detection on the CMOS sensor, right? ::)
Tell me with a straight face that you can tell meaningful performance differences of the sensor between those crop sensors. If so, how? Remember, keep the comments to meaningful rather than de minimus. Tell me which does not look like cat barf at 1600 ISO. Your 7D sure does and it is the best of the bunch.

My point was that there's no incentive for Canon to (really) update the sensor in a line that's updated every year. Doing so would make no fiscal sense, for them. Reusing sensors does, and passing them down from higher lines to lower lines also makes fiscal sense. They are having no problems selling the cameras using (and reusing) those sensors, and they're making a profit and gaining market share in a time when other companies are reporting losses and/or borrowing heavily.

Can you tell me with a straight face that you expect Canon to release a Rebel body with a truly new sensor every year? Just to please you? ::)


No they shouldn't "just to please him". They should be improving sensor quality across their range because the competition and market warrants it. Even amateurs are more educated these days and are demanding better and better image quality and they are getting it. Canon is in the business of making imaging products and to continue to be successful in that market, they should be innovating and raising the bar across their entire product line. So HELL YES!, they should be making better products all the time. I buy Canon for three main reasons 1. No one has a better range of lenses that make any sense to me. 2. I love the ergonomics of their camera bodies (they just feel better in my hands) 3. Their interface is simple, easy-to-use and is virtually the same across their line so that you could pick up almost any Canon DSLR and feel at home rather quickly. Of course there are other innovations that I love like the 600EX-RT Flashes, but aforementioned are the main three. Canon has been lazy about developing sensor technology and could and should be investing more into it. I would say their best sensor (to date) is in the 1DX. That sensor just dominates noise at higher ISO levels. Love that beast of a camera! But I think that similar kind of performance should be trickling down throughout the entire range. Let's hope we'll see some of that with the new 70D.
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Big white lenses: Foot replacement or Lens plate?

neuroanatomist said:
Loctite Blue 242 is 'semipermanent' - a good hard pull with a long-handled hex key and the screws will come out. But they won't work loose on their own. Loctite has other products with a much stronger 'permanent' bond.

RRS doesn't use distributors - you buy direct from them. They do ship internationally.
Once more 100% precise. Thanks :)
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Reminder: Canon EOS 70D Launch Tonight

That seems to be quite a good deal if you go body only. Assuming you have lenses.
Cleaner ISO
20mp
7fps
with 1.6x reach Thats adds up to be a pretty good investment for a secondary sports/action camera or
a good qualifier for video with its focus system(if you have stm lens) and movable screen(i do miss that on my 60d)
I see the 7dii as having 5dm3 focus with higher megapixel, apsc, 12800 iso, an 7+fps. @$1700+ body only
i dont see why all the griping, you all want crazy upgrade for a cheaper price. I am pretty content with Canons path.
The only market i dont see them really moving in on is digital rangefinder/ equally priced 4k video(blackmagic)
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Firmware - Canon EOS C100

In fact it's purely the 18-135 STM...the 40mm pancake does not autofocus or auto-iris (yet).

This strictly was a way for Canon to tell ENG they had a solution in the C100, for everything but power zoom. It's apparently a good solution. Maybe I will even pick up one of those lenses with the 70D kit on a Xmas special. But it's not a parfocal lens sadly and it will be October before the firmware offering movable mag assist appears, which is our next chance to have e.g. the 40mm pancake supported. The 'cake would be good for steadicam AF use, nice & light.
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Follow focus advices

Jeff said:
Am also looking at a follow focus and I'm wondering what it is that want improved over the system you have now? I ask because I'm looking at the http://www.hondogarage.com and the two disadvantages I see are no hard stops nor the ability to use a whip. Of course I like the price and I'm also thinking the belt system might work better with tse lenses(?)

My follow focus has a 1,5mm play, that's usually negligibile, but when you're working with a very shallow dof and you have to quickly move the focus back and forth it's a bit annoying, so I'm looking for something better, but less expensive than a RedRock or a Zacuto...

I took a look at the link you posted, I definitely not recommend you a FF whithout a whip connection, it can be extremely useful in many situations and to buy a FF that has it will cost you only a few bucks more.

To use the FF on a TSE lens you have to attach it anyway after you moved the lens, so I don't think it matters if your using a belt or not.

Today I tried the Manfrotto's USB FFs, both Sympla models, and I just can't understand for whom those tools are made for. The focus changes are extremely jerky and quite slowly too. The more expensive model is a bit better, but still unusable. I spoke with a Manfrotto agent and he told me that the limit is the lens AF that's not fast enough... how is that possible??? He told me that only newer STM models work properly, so I wonder who can ever buy an 800 $ FF that works only with cheap, slow, consumer lenses? I really don't get it.

Axilrod said:
Yes the Edelkrone looks pretty sweet. Follow focus isn't very complicated, I would think that anything that isn't dirt cheap should be sufficient.

Yes, that's what I think, but as I wrote I'd like to find something extremely precise.
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IQ of Sigma 50-500mm F4,5-6,3 DG OS HSM - Your experience about it

Juza photo had a comparison of the two that showed them about equal.

http://www.juzaphoto.com/article.php?l=en&article=54

I bought the Sigma for several reasons - I hate push/pull, Sigma is black so less conspicuous, going down to 50mm meant the lens is much more versatile than the Canon which goes to 100mm wide.

I used it to shoot the Blue Angels aerial acrobatics team last year; no issues with focus or quality for that large a zoom range.
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Need help with video lighting!!!

dirtcastle said:
After doing a ton of research (and raising my budget a little), here's what I think I'm going to get...

880837.jpg

Litepanels 1x1 LS Daylight Flood LED Panel
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=880837&is=REG&A=details&Q=

863687.jpg

GiSTEQ Flashmate F-198C LED Video Light
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/863687-REG/GiSTEQ_C8_03_F198C_01_Flashmate_F_198C_LED_Video.html

And when my funds replenish, I'll get this one for my third light...

850293.jpg

Genaray SpectroLED-14 Light (100-240VAC/12VDC)
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/850293-REG/Genaray_SP_AD75_SpectroLED_14_Light_100_240VAC_12VDC_.html

I know this won't be the most powerful/sexy light kit. But whatever I lose in light quality... I should get back with other benefits: low temperature in my no-AC-having L.A. apartment, super easy to move and pack, and low power draw. The only thing I'm not sure about is color. But as long as the colors aren't noticeably bad, I'm okay with it.

I'm not looking for the ultimate/perfect lights. I just want something that gets me in the ballpark of good quality, and isn't a buzzkill to use. I feel like tungsten would be too much of a hassle for the type of shooting I'll be doing. The heat alone sounds awful. And for on-the-go, it would also be a pain in the ass.

Any thoughts?


There are china made non-branded ones that cost USD100-200. go and search around. Also some 30W-50W LED garden flood light are quite affordable. approx 70 USD?

Take a look at the ECO wash photo on page 34 of this http://www.mtr.com.hk/eng/sustainability/2012rpt/files/sustainabilityreport2012.pdf

I went to bought 4 of these to light up the lower part of that photo.
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Need tips for shooting auto racing video

ckwaller said:
You mentioned shooting @ 720p/60fps. What shutter speed were you using? I've always read that when shooting 720p, a shutter speed of 1/125 (essentially twice the frame rate or its nearest approximation on a DSLR) is ideal for creating slow motion shots in post.

Otherwise, you can shoot at 24/30 fps and use programs such as Twixtor/After Effects or Cinema Tools to achieve the desired effect?
I have tried using 1/125 when shooting 24p, the results are still OK, see if this is ok with yourself. will feel choppy if you go higher .
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Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS II travel bag for Alaska

I've traveled to Alaska (eagles) with my 500mm f/4L several times, and ill return this fall as well. I use a Pelican 1510 case: http://www.pelican.com/cases_detail.php?Case=1510

I do not use the dividers, just the top foam and the padding on the sides and bottom. I cut a slot in the foam top to avoid pressure on the lens cap. I found the dividers unnecessary as I filled the case with other equipment: lenses and bodies.

Read the airline websites on their size and weight limits for carry-ons. This case works for domestic flights, but some international flights have tighter restrictions. With what I carry, I'm right at 40 pounds.

This makes rolling through airports a breeze, but not so much fun carrying it down a trail. If that is where you are heading, consider the The Gura Gear Kiboko or whatever they have these days.
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