Posts

wtlloyd · Jan 17, 2014

Very nice images. I'd erase all the cranes in each image. On number 1 I think it would be improved by cropping the bottom up to where the water is no longer dull. #2 might be leveled a bit more.
#3 has that crane poking up out of the bridge, much stronger image without that.
Again, beautiful images.

urbanbrain · Jan 17, 2014

Awesome! We are looking at shooting with our new Canon 5 Mark III and I wondered what audio set up you used with this camera. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I am shooting a web sitcom with a Theater Class filled with comedy loving students.

Ivan Muller · Jan 17, 2014

Thanks all! I will post some more as I get through the processing....

Rick · Jan 17, 2014

If you are talking about the Ad Choice adverts, you can click the link at the upper right of the advert, and that will take you to screen where you can turn them off.

JPlendPhoto · Jan 17, 2014

Thank you for your replies. Interesting to see some of you use mainly primes

Raj · Jan 17, 2014

Hi Neuro....

Thanks - that was reassuring indeed. As of now I'm finding the Swiss Arca clamp setup perfectly comfortable and fine...
Cheers and thanks once again

jonathan7007 · Jan 17, 2014

Your post made me visualize my use for this solid arm, and I think this is what you do: shift the axis of your beauty dish a foot or so to the side of the lightstand, making it a LOT easier to shoot around the stand with the light positioned to be right on the lens axis and slightly above lens height. Yes, a boom of any kind is overkill here.
Excellent! Still might need that weight on the bottom of the stand...

Zv · Jan 17, 2014

Grumbaki said:
Here (China) the 70-200s are nicknamed "Xiao bai" litterally "Little white". Cute.

Yeah I heard about that. Thanks for sharing!

alexturton · Jan 17, 2014

David_in_Seattle said:
The 50mm f1.2 is weather sealed, but requires a filter to complete the seal. Though, don't interpret that as water proof or built like a tank. I've owned a few and broken 2 of them due to harsh environments. If you're shooting in rain, high humidity, or dusty environments then I recommend using a clear/uv filter to protect the front element and a lens cover to protect the rest of the lens from the elements.

My first one broke while on a photo shoot in the Cascade Mountains during the winter. Unfortunately moisture somehow made its way into the lens (even with a filter on) and the frigid cold caused the mechanism to freeze up. When I turned the focus ring while the camera was on the lens wouldn't respond. I was unable to focus with it until I sent it in for repairs.

A second copy broke while doing a photo shoot on the beach, then transitioning to a speed boat. The harsh movements of the boat hitting the ways caused the magnetic focusing system to break and become unresponsive. From the what the Canon CPS tech told me over the phone, apparently the internal lens elements were dislodged and one of them cracked inside the barrel. It was too costly to repair so I bought another one.

Thanks for the tips. Truth be told I don't plan on going anywhere extreme like you but it would be nice to know if it starts raining I shouldn't be to worried

alexturton · Jan 17, 2014

Dylan777 said:
If you bought it from an authorized dealer, then you should be fine. Just go out take pictures and have fun with it

+1

alexturton · Jan 17, 2014

sb in ak said:
6D would give you the best all around DSLR for those needs. Though for street, you might be better served with a smaller rangefinder-like camera.

+1

I'd go with a 6d and an x100s

sb in ak · Jan 16, 2014

Do you have any sort of insurance for camera equipment?

Either way, I'd strongly consider just having them replace the parts. Peace of mind for later on, and it's already there. And use a bag next time.

Quasimodo · Jan 16, 2014

No solution?..., but it sound like my 135L and all other 135's I have tried

some sort of fitting should be possible? I am thinking along the lines of what a friend of mine came up with for the sagging inner barrel of the 24-105L (when carrying it in a strap). He bought the kind of plastic/rubber bracelets you see young people use. I tried it myself on my own copy and the inner barrel never slides down any more. You feel that it is there when twisting the zoom, but better than the alternative. If you could find a type of rubbery material that glues to the inner side of the hood by the locking mechanism, but that has no stickiness to it after it has dried, it would both stop the shaking and possible looseness after it has been twisted into position?

alexturton · Jan 16, 2014

I would keep the 16-35 and just save up for a new lens. If you're after something to complete your zoom range the 24-70 would be better. but if your after architecture, pro-landscape or tilt shift FUN(!) then go for the TSE.

I personally don't believe in swapping 1 lens for something different unless I don't use the original lens.

Mt Spokane Photography · Jan 16, 2014

Its a matter of tolerance buildup. If a lens at one end of the range meets a camera at the other, then it will be tight or very loose. Exchanging it for another usually resolves the issue.

It is not a normal occurrence, I've had dozens of bodies and at least a hundred lenses, many of them recent new ones without the issue.

ajfotofilmagem · Jan 16, 2014

Considering that you are dissatisfied with your Sony, and already have a 550EX flash, it seems logical to switch to Canon. In fact, for photos in low light 6D seems a good option, but she asks good lenses like 24-105 or more expensive lenses. I see two paths for you. Or you saves more money for 6D + 24-105mm, or purchase now 60D + 17-55mm. However, if the budget allows, the 70D + 17-55mm set is even cheaper than the set 6D.

jrista · Jan 16, 2014

LetTheRightLensIn said:
Not good. Looks like one of the readout channels on the sensor has gone bad.

At least one. The 7D has eight channels...looks like maybe two of them went out, given the spacing of the missing columns.

Jan 16, 2014

gbchriste said:
There's a fabulous guide to the 1DX AF system and the only difference between it and the 5DIII system is the AF-point linked metering on the 1DX. Otherwise they are identical so this guide is equally valuable and pertinent to 5DIII users.

It sounds like you're referring to Spot Metering linked to any AF point, which is available on the 1-series bodies but not on other Canon bodies, where spot metering is limited to the center of the frame. I'd call that more of a difference in metering rather than AF systems.

The difference in the AF systems is iTR - face/subject recognition and tracking in AI Servo. As Canon puts it, on the page you linked:

" The only major AF-related difference between the two involves their metering systems. With the EOS-1D X, the new 100,000-pixel RGB metering system not only measures exposure, but can be used along with Automatic AF point selection to assist the AF system in following subjects around the AF area. This is Canon's Intelligent Tracking and Recognition system, EOS iTR. Backing up this sophisticated 100,000-pixel metering system is a separate, independent DIGIC 4 processor, dedicated strictly to metering tasks."

surapon · Jan 16, 2014

Don Haines said:
jiphoto said:

This is fascinating, Don! Thanks for sharing! I'd be particularly curious to see an updated version comparing, say, 7D, D800, 5D3, 1DX, D5300, etc., with film, to see how much improvement there is now over older cameras like the original 1Ds. Would the modern cameras show a resolution advantage over the older models with equal pixel counts?

Click to expand...

I think that the real limit is the glass. People talk about the good old days, but the reality is that the quality and resolution of lenses now exceeds what was around in the good old days of film. As a group we like to fixate over the image sensor and we forget that a camera is a system, the image quality is a combination of sensor, lens, focusing system, image stability, AA filters, image processing, and speed.

Yes, Sir + 100 for me too. We need to see the whole system plus, we, as Photographers, We must improve our Photographic Skill too.
Surapon

Jan 16, 2014

miejoe said:
Does Canon stop supporting rebels once they've shipped the next annual release?

Not necessarily. For example, a T1i firmware update was issued about 6 months after the T2i came out.

Jan 16, 2014

I have the 12x48" Hot Rod Strip Box (and a couple of their Ezyboxes). Although it's not as easy to set up as the Ezybox (they call them that for a reason!), it sets up pretty quick (it's more work to assemble the first time you set it up) and the stripbox is robust (it comes with a swivel mount, but I usually use a Manfrotto 026 which is sturdier). It's great on a boom over a group portrait, for example.

For a 36" octabox, I'd be a bit worried about using just one speedlite due to the larger surface area (close to double the area of the 12x48" or a 24" square soft box). You might consider one of the Ezybox II Octas (31" and 40" versions available), which can take the quad bracket so you can use 1-4 flashes in it (or adapt it to a monolight).

noncho · Jan 16, 2014

Sigma 105 F2.8 EX DG macro OS was somewhere out the lights, because the lens price was too near to 100L.
But about 2 months ago Sigma drop the price in USA and Europe and now it's much more interesting. I bought one and I'm impressed - 100L is slightly better only with focus speed and accuracy.

Here is my review (translated) - http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://nonchoiliev.com/blog/935

Jan 16, 2014

What are you looking to do to the light? Soften it? Restrict it's spread? More specifics would help.

Honl makes a nice system of modifiers for speedlites, which attach via a rubber+velcro band that goes around the flash head (just straps on, no adhesive). They have short and long snoot/reflectors, grids, gels, etc. Lastolite has a similar lineup with their Strobo stuff, which can mount direct to the flash head, or via adapter to the bracket/'speedring' that comes with the Exyboxes (the latter means nothing is directly attached to the flash head, all the weight of the modifiers is on the bracket and you just mount the flash to the bracket).

muchakucha · Jan 16, 2014

Taken with a 60D

Radiating · Jan 16, 2014

Man do I love Sigma. I wish they'd make this lens.

Or like CR said, a 16-24mm f/2

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