After reviewing the keepers from a Niagara Falls shoot with a 24-105, the distortion was enough to make me want to send the lens over the Falls in a barrel. Both current 24-70s are very good, even in my hands.

Nalle Puh said:

Sorry, I do not think Aptina has anything to do with Nikon D4, it is a Renesas made sensor as in D3

Click to expand...

And what information do you have to back that up? There is no mention of CMOS Image Sensors on Renesas' site. I found one article that mentioned Nikon uses Renesas microcomputer parts for controller chips in some of their cameras, but that is not the same thing as a CMOS Image Sensor.

Chipworks has a breakdown of the D4 sensor, however you have to pay (a hefty price) for it. The only other mentions of the D4 sensor is on Nikon Rumors, and last I remember, it was there that I saw the D4 sensor and Aptina mentioned together. Chipworks also did a breakdown of the D3 sensor, and they mentioned Renesas as a possibility, but only because they had prior ties to Nikon (for the controllers), however they also noted that Renesas has no history of actually manufacturing CIS parts (despite apparently having a couple patents for CIS technology.)

The Renesas idea has been brought up before, but there is absolutely no hard evidence to suggest they actually fabbed any Nikon sensors. The only concrete link between Nikon and Renesas is for controllers. There were numerous debates on DPR about Renesas and Nikon, even there there has never been any conclusion that Renesas has ever manufactured a CIS part, let alone any D3/D3s/D4 sensors.

Aptina, on the other hand, most definitely has a very powerful and strong presence in the CIS world. If any third party, other than Toshiba and Sony, has ties with Nikon to manufacture sensors, it would be Aptina.

KitsVancouver said:

I just looked at two lenses (which I own or am thinking of) and they haven't changed. 600mm and 200-400.

Click to expand...

Pretty much everything had a lower price before Christmas.

The plug I'm using is the usb cord, it still works just loose so at times it comes out and I loose connection so I just have to restart the teathered mode in lightroom. Just wandering if there is another port I can use without having to send this in to canon to have fix and be without the body.

Thanks!

Canon Rumors said:

I've noticed low light, low contrast AI servo AF is a bit better, not sure if it's placebo though.

Click to expand...

I'm getting more and more impressed with the upgrade, I've shot 67.000 actuations on the 1dx in the last 15-16 months and can safely say it's a lot better in my case. Kids faces are the worst for AF and now it works beautifully. I adjusted some settings like the 1st/2nd image priority towards focus and less for release. I use Ai Servo 100% of my shots.

Ok, I've been shooting IPB.

Now, I also just upgraded to Davinci Resolve 10, I'm still using my previous version of FCPX...I'm not updating to Mavericks anytime soon to use the latest release of FCPX, not in the middle of projects.

HOWEVER..I did find something new that I dunno if it is due to using IPB, or using Resolve 10, but I brought my 'raw' footage from camera to the harddrive. I first opened it all in Resolve and then output it all to ProRes proxy files, and did an xml which I gave to FCPX to open.

It opened, as usual, the new event and project. THIS time....the timeline that came in has SOUND that worked!?!? I've not been able to get sound from Resolve into FCPX in a long time. I dunno if it was the new version of Resolve or if it was due to shooting in IPB....but this time it worked!!

Yay!!

Now...to get to editing this mess and try roundtripping back and forth as needed for color grading, etc.

C

OK then, well I just bought the 600D and the guys thrown in a canon 18-135mm EF-S for £85, so I think I'll stick with that and when I get a but more cash I'll splash out on a 28 or 35mm.

No issues if shot wide open. The shift gets pretty bad if at the Min. Focusing distance @ F/2-F/4.

+1 Neuro

I own the entire stable of 4 Canon TS lenses & work with them all the time. I'll just add that the only thing that bothers me about these guys (other then the 45 not being in the same "optical league" as the others) is that the tilt-knob on the 90mm for some strange design reason works in the opposite direction as compared to the other 3 TS lenses... On the 17, 24, & 45mm TS lenses when you turn the tilt-knob clockwise the lens tilts down, while on the 90 it tilts up! I know that it's nit-picking, and I'm sure that the Canon engineers had a very good reason to do it that way, but I've never gotten used to it. Even after all these years I still find myself muttering "G-d d--n 90!"

Richard

I had been interested in getting a 1.4x teleconverter for my lenses but I don't own any lenses that are compatible with the Canon brand tele's, so that leaves the A/M ones like the ones made by Tamron. I currently own the EF 70-300L IS USM, EF 100 Macro and 28-135 IS USM. I wanted to try it out using my Canon 7D.

I have a photography friend who owns a Tamron 1.4x MC4 (non pro) and she let me borrow it for the day at a trip to our local zoo. It was overcast so it was going to be a great test to see how well the AF worked in lower light situations. I have to say that I was very impressed with how quickly it locked on focus 99% of the time. Only at full zoom on my 300mm did it hunt on occasion, but even then, it locked in pretty quickly.

I got home and went through the photos and the image quality was incredible. The images were very sharp and detailed.

I did a search and found a used Tamron 1.4x at KEH for 65 bucks. I used it this past weekend and it worked fantastic. It correctly metered the aperture ( I.E. f4 instead of 2.8 ) and worked well with all settings (I.E. Av mode) I couldn't be happier and would recommend getting one if you have been interested.

The extra reach on my zoom was worth the couple of times it had trouble locking on. The way I look at it is that I can always take it off if lighting is really poor or if I can't risk not getting the shot. I also really enjoyed using it on my 100mm macro, it not only gave me a longer working distance from the subject, it had a magnification factor as well that was awesome.

Just FYI in case anyone was interested in getting a 1.4x tele.

D

I am using EG-S on 6D, now I never change to normal focus screen. I have some F4 zoom, no problem but view finder is darker.

I wonder how this compares to the Canon 50mm f/2.5 compact macro, which is really sharp with negligible distortion, and has AF if needed. Oh, and goes for $250-300. I picked one up used for $200.

WillThompson said:

I see it took 4 tries to get it ready for the masses, v2.0, 2.01, 2.02, & now v2.03!

Click to expand...

Would you prefer version 2.00 with some bugs not having been fixed before delivery? I rather prefer downloading firmware for my 1D-X, which happens to be not an X.00 version, because the software revisions imply that some corrections have been made after running version 2.00 through QA.

Please note that in software development you cannot expect people to work on a version 1.9.Y and then to rename it to version 2.00 after endless testing and corrections. It is necessary to always expect something unforeseen, so at first developers target something like in our case a version 2.00 and then they make corrections after running the software through QA tests, resulting in software revisions.

It appears they arent making that much of a profit then.

silvestography said:

Hey Alex,
that's some really nice work you've got there. Here's some feedback coming from a 16-year-old who, like you, still has plenty to learn. With your landscapes, one thing you might want to focus on as a general concept is creating "rhythms" with dark and light (alternate large sections of shadows with large sections of highlights moving across the frame to create interest). Your first image does that pretty well, so keep it up. I'm no expert in wildlife, but much like people photography, you want to make sure your subject stands out somehow. That could be by putting a dark subject up against a light background, having the subject and background work as complimentary colors, or by creative framing. Number 10 does a good job of this, but the others could be better.

Anyway, I don't mean to be harsh (though I wish people would offer me with some harsher critiques), and keep up the good work!

Click to expand...

Thanks for your honest critique!
Alex

Private.
Thank you - I appreciate your feedback very much.
I want this type of conversation not so much for the competition as for the learning, and this type of personal feedback is very helpful. Especially as you talk about the emotions raised by each picture.

Just wanted to share another travel pic - from Rome:


Bless Me Father by Thousand Word Images by Dustin Abbott, on Flickr

Dear likwidplastik
Here is the link to see the DOF. infor. That you can use calculate the DOF of this Monster / Awesome Lens .

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Enjoy
Surapon

what AF and exposure settings are you currently using that causes OOF images?

gigabellone said:

In the end i have decided to drop the idea of getting vintage lenses. Good ones are as expensive as EF lenses, plus the cost of adapters. I'll be picking up a used Canon EF 28-135 next week for 200€. It covers almost all the focal lengths i'm interested in (except 24mm), and i'll be able to sell it with few (if any) loss. Thanks everyone for the advice.

Click to expand...

Good to know you have already made a decision- but I'll add my 2 cents just in case. You say 50mm seems slightly too long, you might need a 28-35mm range in that case. If you are not sure, buy the 35/2 used and try it out. If you are sure, then you can get the 35/2 IS or Siggy 35/1.4 and be happy for a while
Something to think about. While 28-135 is a very versatile lens (my 2nd lens, and the first IS lens I owned), the pictures with 28-135/6D might not be remarkably better than the T2i/18-55.
While a FF is good enough to even make a f/4 zoom shine on it, I don't see the point of not taking advantage of the great depth of field and using fast lenses if I can.

If you're interested in landscapes and sunsets, a 6d is probably a better choice. Better IQ at low ISO, much better DR. To echo what others are saying, the 7d is a bit dated and other cameras like the 70d or the mythical 7d2 will end up being a better choice if you want to stick with crop.

slclick said:

Really? DxO scores? Please.

Click to expand...

Well, some people like to wallow in BS (bovine scat or biased scores, pick your abbreviation).

I would go for the fast glass(es) first.
One up to two stops faster.
You will need them anyway for low light.
Then you can decide, if you need/want a newer body too.

The ST E3 RT is "only" radio.
So you cant tell the 430, what to do.
Neuro already told the only way by an optical trigger in manual.
Mounting the 600 in the hotshoe of your camera, you can use the 430 optical as slave, TTL the optical way.

Anyway: enjoy listening to the tunes of your new radio!
p

Lens does hit mirror, put a rubber band between the lens and adapter so it will no longer hit, lost infinity buy got a little bit closer of focusing which is most important because I will be using this lens for portraits. Already got some cool shots with it.