This is what I use...but sparingly and as I mentioned I use a Q-tip and then a dry one to wipe off any excess. You are not soaking the contact just cleaning the surface. This is what is used in the aircraft industry for contact reliability.

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.299/.f

I have purchased used lenses in the past for cheap. Supposedly had AF problems. The contacts were cleaned with this stuff and the AF issues went away. I've since sold the lenses for more than I paid. Granted the contacts were in very bad shape but this stuff cleaned them completely. For most you are better off not touching the contacts at all but there are times when a cleaning is necessary, especially if you notice AF issues or getting strange error messages on your camera.

neuroanatomist said:

Of those, you won't find either of the IS versions for less than $3K (and if you see one posted for that sort of price, it's a scam). You might find one of the older, non-IS versions. But those are a significant risk - they use electronic manual focus (like the current 85L II), Canon no longer services the non-IS versions of the lens, and AFAIK parts are not available. Therefore, if the AF fails, you have a club/doorstop/paperweight, since you will not even be able to manually focus the lens.

You might want to consider something like a Sigma 120-300/2.8 OS lens, or a Canon 400/5.6L.

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+1
You might find one in your price range, but its very unlikely to be working, they are worth that much for parts.

killswitch said:

florianbieler.de said:

You know you can fix that yourself, right?

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Do tell. Thanks.

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#

Explained here in english and a method I would very much prefer is explained here but only in German, try google translator or anything.

Haven't tried it myself but somebody told me that they loaded an image with a 2.35:1 aspect ratio on a card, popped it in the camera, played it back and taped the LCD based on that

Should give you lines that fit your screen instead of having to do a lot of complicated measuring

Mbpics, thank you! Yes, to each their own...we Canon people don't fear the big dial. It's almost like if our cameras were cars, they would have 26 inch rims...hahaha.

I'm envious of your D700...as I've said before, I don't think I've ever seen any picture done with a D700, that didn't look fantastic in every way!

Yes I agree, I need to try perfect resize, I just haven't gotten around to it. I've been leery of trying trial versions of software...but I'll make an exception in this case. However....what if they come out with a new version in the next couple of months, right after I buy this one??? That wouldn't be enjoyable...

karen.tao said:

I had the same problem with a 3rd party battery and the 6D charger. It worked a few times and stopped working.. I thought it was because it was a 3rd party battery, so I bought an authentic Canon LP-E6. However, it wouldn't charge using my 6D charger. When I took it back to the store, they charged it using a 3rd party charger and it would charge. So I took it home and tried again with my 6D charger and it worked. This is just a guess, but I'm assuming it won't charge if it is completely flat, but it will if there is a little big of charge in it already.

This is ridiculous.

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Actually, its a safety issue, but then to some, safety is ridiculous.

Safety requirements
If overheated or overcharged, Li-ion batteries may suffer thermal runaway and cell rupture.[52] In extreme cases this can lead to combustion. Deep discharge may short-circuit the cell, in which case recharging would be unsafe.[citation needed] To reduce these risks, Lithium-ion battery packs contain fail-safe circuitry that shuts down the battery when its voltage is outside the safe range of 3–4.2 V per cell.[35][44] When stored for long periods the small current draw of the protection circuitry itself may drain the battery below its shut down voltage; normal chargers are then ineffective. Many types of lithium-ion cell cannot be charged safely below 0 °C.[53]
Other safety features are required in each cell:[35]

• Shut-down separator (for overtemperature)
• Tear-away tab (for internal pressure)
• Vent (pressure relief)
• Thermal interrupt (overcurrent/overcharging)

These devices occupy useful space inside the cells, add additional points of failure and irreversibly disable the cell when activated. They are required because the anode produces heat during use, while the cathode may produce oxygen. These devices and improved electrode designs reduce/eliminate the risk of fire or explosion. Further, these features increase costs compared to nickel metal hydride batteries, which require only a hydrogen/oxygen recombination device (preventing damage due to mild overcharging) and a back-up pressure valve.[44]
These safety issues present a problem for large scale application of such cells in Electric Vehicles; A dramatic decrease in the failure rate is necessary.

Yeah I just got one to use on the eos m its a nice lens really well built no full circular but its very wide
I've ordered a dandelion chip to add af confirm to it so far using it with ml focus peaking is good

AvTvM said:

TrumpetPower! said:

So go ahead and switch to Nikon already. They're a reputable company that makes good products. You obviously prefer theirs to Canon's, so what on Earth is keeping you as a Canon customer?

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hehehe .. the usual fanboy crap, wehn they up against the wall.
No I do not want to switch to Nikon. I want a new, improved EF 100-400/f 4.0 (!) - 5.6 L IS II with MTF like the new nikon and at a price not higher but preferably lower than the new Nikon. To go along with the other Canon stuff I got.

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Where is my Canon EF 100-400 f/4-5.6 L IS Mk I??? ;D

trigwynt said:

(...) would like something a tad smaller that I can take with me when I'm out and about with work. (...)

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Have you considered something even smaller like a Canon S100/S110? It will fit in a pocket, and I believe is a much better camera than the SX500/600 unless you need the 30x zoom. (I'm personally buying a S100 myself.)
Daniel

We are getting a bit off subject, but I use both lens hoods and filters for protection. I was shooting in this past snow storm and the lens hood kept the snow off my 85L (not weather sealed) and my 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. The inside of the fuzzy hood was white with snow but the lens/filter was dry.

MichaelHodges said:

Basically, at low ISO (less than ISO 800), there will be no meaningful IQ difference between the 7D and the cropped 5DIII

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I'd disagree with that.

I noticed a significant improvement in sharpness and low ISO noise (especially in blue skies) with the 5D II and 5D III. Those cameras lost their edge when shooting wildlife with a 300 prime, however.

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Were you comparing images from the FF bodies cropped to the FoV of the 7D (and with the same lens)? That's the scenario to which I am referring. Using the entire image from the FF sensor, it will have an IQ advantage over the 7D at lower ISOs as well.

jrista said:

Just out of curiosity, what makes a DO lens with dispersed particles more effective than the diffraction gratings they use now?

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Good question.

Canon has not given up on gratings, here is a patent released in 2012. http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20120212821

I can only rely on Canon's statement in the patents, but the diffraction varies radially which allows for less CA, but thats assuming the particle dispersion bends the various light rays correctly.
The gratings are one dimensional and use a glass lens to bend the light.

Here is some reading material, there will be a test tomorrow if we can find anyone who understands it well enough to grade the answers

http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20110317276

Tell us where you think you might remember where you could have possibly heard something about this vaporware.

I personally just use my hands. But that's just me.

Probably not worth selling that one off, but a nifty fifty has its name for a reason.

drolo61 said:

IQ-wise: EF 24 2,8 IS compared to EF-L 24 1,4 II?

Is the 24-70 II really up to prime IQ at the wide-end wide-open?

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The 24 2.8 IS is close to the 24L II IQ wise, although the 24L II is still a little bit sharper and has less vignetting at comparable f-stops.

And yes, the 24-70II can match the performance of the 24L II and 35L and is sharper than whatever exists at 50mm for Canon. It is weaker at 70mm than at 24mm, but is still very good. The main advantage of the L primes now is their max aperture.

Thanks for the advice ... I ordered the Eg-S screen. I will also be borrowing / renting the Zeiss 1.4 and see how it goes.

Marine03 said:

...as a backup could I use the old batteries?

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When you unpack your 6D and look at the battery, it will immediately become apparent that the answer is no.

Studio1930 said:

The Canon 1Ds3 had oil issues when they were new. They over oiled the mirror arms and high speed shooting (if you could call it that) would fling lots of oil all over the sensor. I had to send mine in to be cleans since it was waaaaay too much to attempt to clean up plus they had to remove some of the oil from the mirror arms. These things happen to all manufacturers.

Now the focusing problem of the 1Ds3 was a different issue that was worthy of complaining about. :-\

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Absolutely ... when there is an issue with gear that costs thousands of dollars the customer has every right to compalin (doesn't matter if it is Canon or Nikon) ... my only problem is when people say that is "not a big deal" ... of course it is a big deal, it is our hard earned money and if there is a large scale problem people are bound to raise that issue, but that certainly does not mean we are "blowing it out of proportion".

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

I would assume that they aren't going to stop selling tele-converters, so I wouldn't be surprised to see them release updated versions of the teles not too far down the road. I wonder if this is a Digic 5 issue?

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The Kenko does't just hand the lens protocol through unchanged but seems to modify it a bit, for example to enable f8 af even on cameras that Canon doesn't want to have it. Canon obviously has changed the lens-camera communication a bit on the 6d/5d3, either to enable new features like dual afma or simply to torpedo 3rd party manufacturers. Once Kenko has reverse engineered it I'm sure they'll release an updated tc, however I'm wondering why it takes them so long - maybe they want to sell their current batches of "soon to be old" dgx first.

Imho all 3rd party products in this price range should have some mechanism to update the firmware for new cameras, tcs, flashes, lenses, ... I'd rather pay €50 for a trip to the service than €250 for a new tc.

Get a book for film photographers, Digital is totally different in their use.

Check your local library or photo club, no use buying unless you really need one.

However, there is a literal ton of information about filters on the internet. Their big use was for black and white film, but there are some usages of colored filters with color film as well.
Here is a running start
http://www.photographytips.com/page.cfm/33

Much closer recycle time than I thought, attaching the 550EX and firing at "M, 1/1" with both packs. A little bit longer than a second. Maybe a second and a half.

Don Haines said:

#6 - before you come in after a good long time in the cold, put your camera and lenses in plastic bags, seal them, and let

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I'd add silica satchels to the bag; speeds up the process and makes it pretty much foolproof.

why not just make the sensor a circle and you can crop as you please

Bought my 5DII with 3yr warranty in 2010 for $2200, and a 28-70 2.8L for $300 from the same guy.

Heh, I suppose the lens purchase strategy depends on whether you are a professional, what things you like to shoot at, and what is financially possible. Or if you happen to decide that particular objective would be interesting for your "research" (hey, I do optics in my day job). I checked a 200/1.8 recently, but decided against that since it really wouldn't work with the way I shoot. Too bad for the large aperture though.

Seriously though, since I live in Scandinavia where light is scarce for four months of a year, I do sort of need two sets of lenses. I use fast primes for the winter time, and zooms in the summer, though you won't find me carrying a zoom on vacation.

But I'd recommend not going for the most expensive thing first, but just something on the focal length range that you think could be interesting. For example, Sigma 12-24 is completely sufficient for me in the ultrawide area, while 120-400 does the trick for the 400 mm stuff. Most of the things I take photos of reside between 24 and 200 mm, typically between 24-70 inside and 70-200 outside. 120-400 is more for small animals.

For a vacation, if I think I need a camera with me, I'll probably go with a 20D and 28/1.8 and 85/1.8. That tends to cover all I need, up to night time too.