Lots of nice opportunities up in the mountains if you are looking for Rocky Mountain scenery. A good day trip is to go up to Rocky Mtn. National Park, which is about 60 miles northwest of Denver. If you want to stay closer to town, there are several nice city/county parks up and down the front range. Garden of the Gods outside Colorado Springs is quite impressive. Denver has a very similar area - Red Rocks Park, which is just on the west side of the city by the little town of Morrison. Here's a shot I took there a little over a week ago after we had a nice snow.

I think degrees are great and schooling will certainly get you over the learning curve quicker. Hard to replace all the lessons learned by pushing that shutter button over and over and over too!

FatDaddyJones said:

Just do it! Buy one. Join the club.

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YA! it's a cool club! 8) Thought I may have sold my 7d by now anyway, just can't do it though, still loving it even though it's not getting the use it previously did... Still love it for birding and sports, moreso for sports though. I still feel the difference between the 8fps and the 6fps of the 5d3 and sometimes that's the difference between getting the "money shot" or getting the shot before or after the money shot!

bseitz234 said:

I dunno, I'm beginning to suspect I have a particularly sharp copy, but I just got a 2x extender II, and mounted on my 70-200 2.8/non-is, I'm pretty happy with the results wide open at 400mm. Autofocus is noticeably slower, and has to hunt a little more, but I didn't notice as much CA on high-contrast edges as I expected, and it's not as sharp as the bare lens, but at least in some quick shots of things all the way across the lab, it's absolutely satisfactory... no IS, but I imagine if you're shooting mostly airshows with the extender, that you'd have a fast enough shutter speed to render that irrelevant anyway.

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Good info, thanks!

mrsfotografie said:

LetTheRightLensIn said:

Well I'd go 7D instead of rebel then, although I was never as impressed for 7D for soccer as I had hoped (actually felt the 5D2 center point with helpers with more trustworthy overall and the 5D3 is clearly better, I quickly gave up on the 7D the two times

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But the AF on the 7D is almost infinitely configurable so maybe you gave up on it too quickly. Its AF most definitely better than the 5D2, in fact it is in a completely different league

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I've used my 7d for Soccer, Baseball, Basketball and football and have always loved it! I shoot a 5d3 also and have found that those extra two fps often lead me to the "money shot", where the 5d3 gets fantastic images too, I tend to get the right before and right after the money shots! Like the ball bouncing off the players head for instance...

CharlieB said:

Krob78 said:

I feel confident that they won't be manufacturing or releasing any sub $1000 Full Frame cameras... ever, why would they have too?

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They'll do it when the competition forces them directly, or indirectly. Its an inevitability. Many makers fighting for market share makes for good competition, and also makes for good value in the product.

Its only a matter of when, not if.

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Then it won't be a Rebel anymore, will it? : :-\

I sent it back today. Have asked for a refund.

Not sure ill get another one mail order. Think ill buy one from a shop where I can test it first.
Might be rethinking my wide angle needs because of some poor QC issues I have been reading about the 24 l

I have wide apertures covered from 35mm upwards on my 5d3 therefore have no need for a general purpose zoom such as the 24 105.

What are the best options for covering the wider end? (Ie 24mm and wider)

I generally shoot street. But I want something wide for a bit of wider general purpose and environmental portraits. Definitely want AF

itsnotmeyouknow said:

jcns said:

why f8? Could use f5.6
why ISO 200? using f5.6, you can use iso100
light is a bit on the harsh side, due to time of day and altitude (guessing). Consider a circular polarizer or a variable nd filter or ideally own both.

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Why not use f/8? I shoot a lot of landscapes and rarely use a larger aperture than f/8 - am usually between f/8 and f/16.

You have to be careful which VND you use as many of them leave colour casts. yes these can be removed, but you will remove not just the cast, but also other colours at the same time.

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using wider aperture(as long as it is sharp enough), you can speed up the shutter and minimize blur due to winds blowing trees around as an example.

I have the 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 for indoor volleyball and other stuff, but am teetering on considering selling them for a single 70-200 2.8 non-IS. My other lens is the tremendous Sigma 17-50 so the zoom would have the same filter size (polarizing, etc.).
I really like the image quality from the primes and the smaller size is a bonus, but keep coming back to the zoom. Would I take a hit in image quality? If even a little I'll likely stick with the primes.
Thanks for any insight.

Focus aids for video, ... plleeeaaase

To the OP:

Many seem to separate the 5D and 6D line on action photos.

I have found that it isn't just the AF performance, it is the number of focus points that are usable outside of center.

Nothing wrong with the 5DII, but using anything outside of center is hit or miss, moreso at wider apertures.

I do not have experience with the 6D, but it still has fewer points than the 5DIII. The 6D supposedly has a very good center point, but how good are the outer ones?

Focus + recompose does not work all of the time and I do not like being limited to the center point only. I also have a difficult time focusing manually through the viewfinder unless I have a lot of time, so working AF is important to me.

I have found that a 5DIII + 600EX-Rt works better than a 5DII + 580EXII or a 5DIII + 580EXII. Don't know what it is, whether it is something in the flash (electronics/power) or metering in camera or the 5DIII AF system providing better info.

In short, I have seen a significant improvement in my "one shot" pictures with the latest Canon tech. Someday, I'll figure out the rest of it.

You don't have to be a pro or shoot action to benefit from the 5DIII if your budget allows.

Video- haven't messed with it.

WiFi- haven't had the need to tether, but I can see how that feature could be useful.

paul13walnut5 said:

But then, it is good to know if there are major problems in tech land. My experience is that Canon aren't going to tell you (banged my head against wall with mass CCD failure, 7D CF failure) unless they really have a gun at their heads.

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Out of interest, what is the 7D compact flash issue you mention?

Am i the only one who thinks about how not-environment-friendly the materials used in cameras are? If it can survive that long in the ocean and is somewhat functional still i dont really wanna imagine how many decades it takes til it totally decomposes. Cameras with no housing obviously survived too.

BUT i also got something personal to add! Even thought a bit different.

I never wear pants with holes in the pockets except once i did. And of course it was the day i put my USB stick in that pocket to get some cheapo printed photos in the nearest store. Turned out my USB stick fell through the hole in my pocket
When i walked the way back home i found it! Laying in the middle of an intersection on the street and probably one or more cars ran over it
The plastic covering was shattered so i removed it. USB port itself was a little bent, so i unbent it myself.
Turned out the stick still works perfectly and im still using it

Flektogon 35mm on my film camera. I just LOVE wideangles even 35mm is not so wide really. I just love taking portraits including the environment and not only "bokehlicious" shots all the time. I was never a fan of tele....wideangle feels so good to me )
Whenever im back to my crop camera im kinda bothered by the field of view it offers. shame its hard to get a cheap+good IQ wideangle lens on APS-C. Cant wait to use 24mm on film or FF @o@

ragmanjin said:

Rienzphotoz said:

wickidwombat said:

I see you are already hitting your straps as team captain....

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Ha ha ha ... good one. Most of these folk 8itching and cribbing about Canon cameras, for some strange reason, are usually new members or those with just a dozen or so posts ... makes me wonder if these folk are "sleeper cell" trolls, they have nothing much to contribute towards photography or help someone who is asking seeking help/advice etc but the moment there is a new Canon camera being released or if there is a discussion about a any other camera maker, they suddenly come out in the open, only to disappear.

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Sleeper cell trolls? Fox media getting to you? I can't speak for the rest of us, I'm just a disheartened romantic hoping Canon will find their way back to the top someday...got tired of reading the CR blog and holding my tongue every time I was disappointed with another announcement. Which has been every time since the T2i.
Contribution to photography? Here's my baby Penny in a lukewarm pan of penné. I thought that was clever. Maybe PETA can use it to sell vegetarianism.

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That's weird man. Or you are a genius!!! ;D

About criticism, I think Rienz is referring to other posters than you. It's the 'Canon sucks, I'm losing customers so I will change to Nikon' by 23 year old gear heads I think he is talking about.

CanonGrunt said:

Hello everyone!!!

As the title says. I just picked up an EOS 1V... or at least it will be in my hands at the end of the week. I also will have an FD mount Canon A-1.

So... What is the best film to use? What are the best options left? I prefer black and white for the most part, but I will also use some color and IR as well. Any difference in what I should use in the 1V vs the A-1?

Any thoughts on what FD lenses I should pick up for the A-1? I have a little budget for this, but most seem inexpensive.

Also, any other film tips?

Thanks everybody!

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for black and white, ilford

Enjoy!

I still shoot with an AE-1 once in a while. I had an EOS 3, which was awesome, but the AF was getting dodgy. Still a fine looking and performing camera:

Well I'm really wondering if the Nikon D1 has better ISO performance than the D30?! Sample shots?!

And don't you guys worry about me switching to Nikon...only 3 people have ever asked for any Nikon gear...to which I swiftly slap them in the face with a 70-200 L and run away.

Y'all have no idea, though, how much I would absolutely love a camera that had a spectrometer at each photosite.

So would the entire fine art reproduction market, as well as practically everybody in the scientific community...forensics...what you could do with such a beast would be amazing.

Ah, well. Maybe I'll live to see the day when it isn't a cruel joke....

b&

Any updates... We upgraded to the PW3's and they still have the 1/160 sync limit... oh well...

Mt Spokane Photography said:

You won't use your 60D once you get FF. The only reason to consider keeping it is for a backup or second shooter.

It doesn't hurt to wait and see, some people prefer point and shoot cameras to DSLR's, and for them, its the right decision.

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So true. I even tried to use my 60D as a backup camera. I don't even pick it up. It just sits in my bag with the body cap on. And when I get a 16-35, I'll have NO need for the 60D with my 10-22.

And I'd suggest this:
Keep your 100L, get a 70-200 II (on a 5D III you could always crop in. It retains AMAZING quality). Possibly pick up a 24-70 II (these things are fantastically sharp).
The 40mm is a good inconspicuous lens, but I feel that you could practically get the same results with the 24-70 II. For a prime I'd suggest an L prime (35 f/1.4L or 50 f/1.2L), but it all depends on your shooting style too.

Totti said:

Hi guys,

Does anyone have any good resources / links to information and tips on bottle image photography?

I am shooting wine bottles, and my current gear includes
- Light Tent
- 2 lamps
- Tripod
- Speedlite for fill

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Several here have recommended the following book:

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Magic-Introduction-Photographic/dp/0240812255/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1364792450&sr=1-1&keywords=light+science+and+magic

As they have said -- this is the first place to start on the science of lighting. Additionaly, Syl Arena's book:

http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Digital-Photography-Snapshots-Portrait/dp/0321832752/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1364792551&sr=1-1&keywords=syl+arena

Has an entire section dedicated to your exact problem -- lighting a wine bottle (or a whole collection of them). It sounds like you have the right gear. You want to light what the bottle can see with the equivalent of a strip light on the sides of the bottle to define its shape. The light tent should do this perfectly.
Post your bottle shot when you get it, it will be cool to see what you come up with.

Be sure to clean the darn thing first and make sure that there are no other extraneous light sources that the bottle can "see". You want to define the sides and the shape of the bottle with strips of light (which will be the reflection of the sides of your light tent in the glass). It won't look good if the reflection of the kitchen window is there. This is best done in a darkened room so that the sides of your light tent are the only thing your bottle can "see".

No fair emptying the bottle until after you have a proper image .

You can plug a HDMI cable from the 60D to any TV that has a HDMI input and whatever would have appeared on the rear LCD display will now appear on the TV.

You can not directly connect an iPad.... as far as I know.... I would love to be corrected on this...

I was at a sporting event a little while ago and it rained half way through. The 20 or so photographers at my end immediately covered their 1DXs and 400 f/2.8 mark iis with rain covers. All but one. That guy just stood there and continued to take pictures, bizarrely he did not even put a rain cover on himself!

So, while the 1DX does have excellent weather sealing, I think it prudent to use a rain cover when it rains. And as I am not totally bonkers (yet) I put a rain jacket on myself too!

Awesome info - thanks everyone! I'll post photos once I have them.

I'll be in the pit, but might have stage access, so I'll just freakin' ask for it (as cayenne suggested).


Oh, and with my 5DM3, I regularly shoot at ISO 10K+, but I'll be surprised if I shoot with anything less than f2.8


Thanks! =)