Hillsilly said:

Very good point....except that at least two of your photos were taken with Leicas!

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Yes, Leicas still hold their place. But regardless of the brand, I have always loved that fine "grain" noise look in the background of fast film emulsions (as in the case of the girl's portrait). So much for wanting zero noise... sometimes it adds interest and character to shots. Just my 2 cents.

K-amps said:

The mono blocks are getting more attention than the G15...

Do those look like Yamaha's in the rear?

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Sorry guys, it was not my intention to post off topic. Yes, they are Yamaha HSM80M monitors. They are part of my home studio setup.

Joe

Add Sony – same downward trend as Canon with Nikon flat lining. Maybe people are just getting bored with incremental upgrades

AdamJ said:

On a related subject, Sigma's new lenses, starting with the 35mm f/1.4, will have updatable firmware via a USB device that attaches to the mount (looks a bit like a teleconverter). It should help to future-proofed their lenses and will also allow users to adjust parameters like focus correction, focus speed, min and max focus limits, etc. which is all good.

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I agree , think Sigma's new path is seriously smart and got my attention. Anyone seen any review of the 35? Trying not to hijacking here...

Thanks a lot, very helpful. So, it's ISO that matters the most!

mirekti said:

rpt said:

Reset camera - here you go...
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1106761

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I tried that today. I let it out of the camera for two hours.
When I put it back the problem remained I just had to redo the clock again. Some settings were preserved though e.g. camera came with default jpeg and I changed it to raw and that remained.

Was the battery too short time period out of camera or some settings get written somewere else?
I mean, the fact that I had to setup the clock again ment I did the "hard" reset, right?

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Yes, you got the camera to reset. Sorry but it seems to me that you may need to send your camera back...

Knowing on how regular computer companies build hardware and then cripple it with firmware or die laser cuts id guess the 1DX is not that much different from a 1DC

I.E. NVIDIA video cards QUADRO and FX series very similar cards with different firmware or enabled pipelines, it was more SIMILAR in the older generations of ATI FIRE GL was a 9700 pro but that was ages ago still, why build 2 incredibly different Models when you can just flick a few "switches" for much cheaper

It's like you are paying $3K for a used 1DMkIV. Not bad. Plus, your 7D would lose value faster if you decide it to keep it and sell it later.

Fishnose said:

Besides, it's a bit big for covert work.

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Yes! If that is all Q can come up with, then James and MI6 are in big trouble!! ;-)

Sorry, for some reason I didn't realize one important factor here at play.

As others mentioned, there are several things more that should be considered in the comparison. By photographing the same target with 55 mm (17-55), you are giving a considerable edge on the magnification for the APS-C lens. My suggestion would be to match the Field of views first, (70 mm FF ~ 44 mm APS-C) and check the results again.

However, even this isn't fully comparable since the maximum reproduction ratio of the lenses differ quite a bit (24-70 goes to 1:3.45, 17-55 to 1:5.9). Take the closest focusing distance of 17-55 - or a little bit further - and test both lenses at suggested focal lengths there, now both lenses should be able to focus there with the same field of view.

Then, there are some hints on the 24-70 @2.8 photo that it is slightly out of focus (on your earlier article). The pincer seems to show some greenish hue around the edges as well as the paper, which suggests that the lens might indeed have front- or back focused. Additionally, there is some haze all around the image which might be because of insufficient spherical aberration correction (which would mean some lens element has moved), or again that the lens has not been focused to the right place.

Due to lack of other objects in the 24-70 photo, I can't see where the lens might have focused. And because of the long shutter speed, it might also be that something simply moved during the take, blurring some of the details. Try using a shorter shutter speed too (1/500 perhaps) and add something like a plank to the scene so that it is easier to determine that if the lens focused wrong, where did it actually focus then.

I suppose you used the Central AF point on both lenses. Be advised that the area covered by the AF point is different between full frame and crop body, and that the AF point might not look exactly at the same direction the view finder suggests (this has been rather annoying with macro work occasionally).

Hopefully you get something useful out of this post.

EDIT: Additional question: does the 24-70 have a UV filter in front of it? If so, is it a quality filter?

Thank you so much for these replies! gah I missed the video but this gives me a lot of think about!

RedEye said:

kinda bummed that they don't support the 135MM 2.0L. It's a fantastic lens to start with but it would be fun to see what a perfected rendition of it appears like .

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the 135L is supported now!

What it comes to the zoom ring stiffness, I think they have made it intentionally so to prevent lens creep. Lens creep should not happen at all with a new 24-70 mk I, but the ring tends to become more loose over time so some of that initial stiffness will go away and you may start to see some miniscule lens creep after a couple of years of use. 70-200 F4 is remarkably smooth and easy compared to most of the zoom rings I have tried.

Andy Jazz said:

Just a quick question. When I have calibrated the centre af point on my 1dx should all the Af points be correct?As they all forward focus.

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In theory, yes. But FoCal can actually test them all to confirm...

Thanks for posting!

GDub said:

Beautiful place! The "Mist over Loch Leven" (#3) shot is excellent. Nice work.

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Thanks. It isn't the sort of shot that is part of my style normally, but I just had to do it.

Nice shot. Thanks for sharing!

Can u gift me the 40D? I will gift it then to my fiance

Check Samyang/Walimex/Rokinon/etc. lenses, they offer editions of them especially made for recording videos, the 35mm delivers near L quality (or even higher!) and the lenses are much cheaper.

50L is sold.

Thanks guys and sorry for not picking up during the week.

The comments re dof have been pertinent for me, as I have tried the lenses fully open, with both the dof issues but for me also a loss of sharpness, although to be fair it's the noise I notice the most, which prompted the original post. I am wary of more glass at the moment because, most of the time, what I have I enjoy. Although faster glass would open up more possibilities rather than pushing both the body and the lens to the limit.

New body, 2nd hand or new, costs, but there is a camera body fund that gets added to as I lose weight. A great motivator. I suppose I am trying to to ensure I can make a move that is going to keep me happy for a few years.

I do need to sharpen up my raw editing skills, I use Aperture for most shots, and dabble with PSE for gross manipulation and combination effects.

Thanks again

You nailed the focus. Good job.
You were just on the wrong side of the field. You should have the sun at your back, and in the faces of your subjects, not the other way round. Here the subjects are back-lit, which is about as bad as you can make it for you.

brianleighty said:

AudioGlenn said:

For the first test, I was using it handheld but for the last measurements I took, I mounted the 70-200 using the tripod ring and it was much easier (lens on tripod, not camera). Getting an estimate on my focusing distance really helped out and I will FOR SURE be using the tripod for macro shots when using the 70-200. I'll try testing out the 40/2.8 as well. That sounds like fun!

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Anyways enough off trackness. One other hint. With the 70-200, you can actually use the zoom ring to focus. With extension tubes the focus range is so limited it's much easier to at least get your course focus this way. Then you can do fine adjustment with the focus ring.

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Thanks for the tip. I actually found that out yesterday during my tests. Yes, it's a very convenient way to focus.

The 1VHS is the greatest achievement in 35mm film photography period. no other 35mm camera even comes close.

I am looking to purchase the Tokina 16-28 f2.8 . Due to its bulbous front element there is no filter thread. Are there any adapter/method or some sort of holder out there that are used on such designs so that one can use filters. I am hoping to use ND filters and really need to figure out there are ways I can attach filters before I hit the buy button.

Thanks