NIK Color EFEX Pro 4 might have a filter combination to fix this. I know this doesn't fix a potential issue with your camera but if you have a bunch of images you still want to salvage.... Also some lens correction in PS would help. ;D

I have both the 60mm macro used on a 50D and a 100mm L Macro that I use on the 5D Miii.

Both are really sharp. Obviously the 60 can't be used on the full frame, which is why I purchased the 100. I haven't used the non-L 100, but I can tell you that the L version is awesome and the stabilizer helps in a lot of situations were I would normally have used a tripod. If you can swing it, I would opt for the L version of the 100mm.

I also have the 17-40L and while I really like the versatility of the lens (and the price), you will not get the same results trying to shoot close-ups. 40 mm on full frame just doesn't cut it. I use the 17-40 mostly for landscape photos. If I were shooting weddings I would probably opt for the 16-35L for the extra stop in low light.

M.ST said:

ALL-I is better in quality and better in cutting.

Click to expand...

I respectfully disagree.... as HurtinMinorKey stated, even if you have more bits per frame, those need to represent the full frame, on each frame, while the other one, only the difference so at the end, you see less compression with the IPB than with the ALL-I yes it is easier to edit with it, but if it comes to image quality, I rather have IPB by far.

I would think that if only the very best use the very best, then no one would make the very best because there are so few of the very best...I'm sure someone can say this better, but hopefully you get my point...

smithy said:

ageha said:

Are the bodies where the serial number's 6th digit is greater than 2 all fixed with duct tape ("proprietary weather/light sealing material") too or did Canon redesign the camera internally a bit?

Click to expand...

My understanding is that they changed the design a bit... I could be wrong though.

Click to expand...

Interesting nobody seems to know how Canon fixed it. I don't want to buy a body for SG$4k with duct tape inside.

corner performance seems to be an issue with the tamron lens - this can be expected looking at the mft charts and test charts at the-digital-picture confirm this - even though i'm not sure these are the final results. corner to corner performance of the canon mark I is better. corner performance of the canon mark II must be awesome - if the mft charts are for real.

87vr6 said:

...but there is nothing in writing in the manual to make actually think or believe that.

Click to expand...

Agreed - it should state that, but it doesn't.

So full frame might just be it for you! Do you find your kit lens to be wide enough in room shots, just not fast enough?

Click to expand...

The kit lens is wide enough for room shots, it's just not fast enough like you stated. If I bought the Canon 5Dc w/ Canon 28-135, I think I'd be fine with that combo for now. I'm a bit worried though, many people complained that on a FF body, the Canon 28-135 is soft in the corners.

Yup, you nailed it. You def need a specialized wiiide lens, whether you're using cropped or full frame.. your 18-55mm on the T1i is about the same as 28mm on full frame, so you'd need to go to at least 24mm on full frame to do better. If you don't mind the wide-itude of 18mm on your T1i, then the 28mm prime, or that Tamron 28-70 I mentioned (but it sounds like you probably should look at a wide prime over a 2.8 zoom) should be OK. Otherwise, you'll find 28mm lacking, too.

Click to expand...

I don't actually have a problem with the 18mm on my T1i, in fact I think it's really wide for my taste. I do like that focal length. So I'll stick with you suggestion of getting the Tamron.

But my main concern is, for the 5Dc, the shutter count. That camera was like $3K when it came out, so it was probably mostly pros buying it, which means lottssss of shutter actuations. I've seen listings of 5Dc's that explicitly mention they've had their shutter replaced. That's a goood thing! : D Look for that (or ask..)

Click to expand...

I've been looking into all of the Ebay listings, Amazon listings, and Craiglist listings for the shutter count. If the camera was recently serviced, I wouldn't mind paying about 750. If it hasn't been serviced, or has a high shutter count, I'd barter for about $600.
-Side Note: If I replace the shutter on the 5Dc, does that mean I have a new 100,000 shutter life?

BozillaNZ said:

BozillaNZ said:

Let's not beat the dead horse again, in terms of image quality, 5D will smoke any APS-C camera ever made.

Click to expand...

He must be smoking pot. I find 5Dc's ISO performance a lot better than 50D.

Click to expand...

... Aren't you guys both praising the 5Dc haha?

Lee are awesome. Have been using them for years. BTW - you don't necessarily need the Proglass filters. I actually like the Resin ones... they seem a bit hardier (I've dropped them onto rocks a few times) and there is no color cast (that's the reason to go with Lee).

Just make sure you get the Wide Angle Filter Adaptor Ring....

You need to be careful with the construction material, particularly of the plate and clamps etc.

They are using a manfrotto head and sticks, something like a 503 would probably be required to support the weight of the crane and leave you with camera lens and ancillaries capacity.

You could mount such a head on cheaper legs, like the 055 series, which are good for up to 8KG depending on the model you pick.

You would probably need to shop around, or perhaps even used.

I'd rather buy something at say $300 that won't fail than something at $200 that will get wrecked and perhaps even wreck your camera along the way.

my menu setting for micro lens adjustment is just simply not working... every time i try to select micro adjust for new lenses its giving me a "waiting..." but doesn't change from that! any help would be much appreciated...

makes sense. thanks

DB, I'm not sure what point you're inviting me to make now but anyway, I was only trying to say that bitembek noted some views about European buyers that were a little sweeping in their generalisation, to the extent of being very amusing to me (as a European).

I'm reading confusing things, but does anyone happen to know if I can get the focusing screen that shows true dof faster than 2,5 for the 1d X?

Think it was EG-S for the 5d mkII.

Their last sensors aren't the same, as Mt Spokane states, but the sensor technology they use remains the same. And this is their biggest problem. They also lost ground in the semiconductor lithography market.

YellowJersey said:

Whether this is even possible is beyond me, as I lack everything but a very rudimentary understanding of this kind of engineering.

Click to expand...

Something like that actually exists - instead of counting electrons after a certain time you wait for each pixel to send a "my bin is full"-message. Your timer tells you how intense the illumination was.
On the downside the idea of a defined shutter time goes out of the window, and while low light levels can be recorded almost free of noise fast flash might cause trouble.

weekendshooter said:

+1 for the remaining shot estimate having the potential to be wildly off. I saw the same on my 450D and currently experience this on my (gasp) D700. It reads 605 shots remaining for an empty 16GB card, where I regularly get 1200+ in real conditions.

Just changing the ISO is not the whole story. File size is a function of the entropy of the image, which in this case is most commonly created through noise. As noise is typically highly amplified in shadow OOF regions, these are the sorts of images that will take up more card space. Images with high ISO shot in good light, such as for high shutter speeds, will not increase the file size as much as images shot in low light at high ISO with large amounts of dark OOF areas.

Click to expand...

If the camera were amplifying the dark regions more than the light ones, all we would get is a gray image with little or no contrast. Canon has not yet been able to control the gain of individual photosites, and, if they did, they still would not amplify dark ones to brighten them up. Black is black.

I can´t understand Canon. They bring up a big update for the 7D, but the necessary errors in the 1D X and 5D Mark III are not fixed until yet. Also a lot of wished functions for the 1D X and 5D Mark III are not included until yet. Canon you loose.

If the firmware update for the 7D is able to speed the camera up, it´s no problem to speed the 5D Mark III up. But nothing happens.

Click to expand...

The 1Dx and 5D3 have been out 5 minutes, the 7D has been out 3 years. That suggests the opposite of 'no problem'. Also different camera architecture (different generation processors, different chip read off)

It seems from canons own blurb that it was work done on the 1d series that was transposed in this fw upgrade to the 7D.

I was reading about Canon flashes, and I remember there being some compatability issues in that regard with the 5D3 and 1DX. I know some of them won't do that with the 5D3 at all, but I'm not sure about your model. I will look it up again.

AdamJ said:

nikkito said:

more servo tests

Click to expand...

Punishing servo test! ;D

Seriously though, nice shots.

Click to expand...

hahah i thought that when i uploaded this pics. that was the most difficult shot of them all. hahaaaahahahaaaaaaaa
thank you very much, you made me laugh ;D

Look for Photoflex products.

drmikeinpdx said:

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/08/autofocus-reality-part-3b-canon-cameras#more-8458

I think this is a very important article. It addresses my concerns about the Canon autofocus system better than any other article I've seen and will influence my future buying decisions.

What do you think of it?

Mike in Portland

Click to expand...

I think of it what I wrote here:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=8397.0

interesting stuff and kinda fits

Stephen Melvin said:

They look nice! What filter do you have installed?

Click to expand...

I think it's a 720nm but I don't know, it belongs to a buddy.

there was NO Canon and NO Nikon . . . just a pro body camera for taking photos. WINNER!

All my lens hoods are reverse mounted with the lens along with both caps in my camera case. During shooting, all my lenses can go back into the case with the hood in the normal position. I am using a crop body. therefore I can use the 17-55 f2.8 lens hood on my 17-40mm. It saves quite a bit of space.