Make sure the monopod is a video version (manfrotto 561?) as this has small footprint a ball and socket foot. Can pan nice even without video head.

I disagree about iso. Iso should be kept consistent and if possible, low.

Control exposure via aperture, light and filtration. Shutter is generally best fixed as per the 180 rule.

F2.8 issue is important on video cameras which have lenses with varying apertures that open up beyond f2.8, the only dslr lens I can think if that does this is the tokina 28-70 f2.6-f2.8.

You should however concentrate on fast primes and or constant f2.8 zooms. This gives you maximum options, and if you zoom between shots they should stilll be evenly matched.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

It has been reported that the 5D MK III does not oversaturate the reds as badly as the 5D MK II and some of the earlier cameras.

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I saturated the reds more in post and the look is closer to what I expected. This maybe contributing to my issue as well.

Stephen Melvin said:

I think the AWB is showing an overall cooler white balance than older Canons. Open the raw file in Lightroom or another raw converter and warm up the white balance, and you'll likely see the old look that you expect.

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You maybe right. I see some improvement, I am going to try this shot again where there are no street lights and see what it is like.

I did have a chance to test out 1D X from a friend. Both AF + fps makes my 5D III looks like a kid toy on race track in pomona CA.

For me....photography is just a hobby. Besides, my wife would kill me if she knows I spend $6000plus on the body. My conclusion: 5D III plus some L lenses are more than enough for a NEWBIE like me ;D

RLPhoto said:

5D3 + EOS M + L Primes = Ultimate Setup in my Book. 8)

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I don't know. I think I will hang on to my T2i as the "compact" backup to my 5D III. Once you add the EOS lens adapter and stick an L glass, the EOS M's advantage in portability decreases quite a bit over Rebel bodies, who have the advantage of EVF and built-in flash, even wireless external flash control for later bodies.

Once the next generation of hopefully better APS-C Canon sensors make it into the EOS-M MkII or whatever, with EVF, then I may seriously think about picking one up.

akiskev said:

unadog said:

Can you compare to the T3i/7D? Will 6400 on the 5D3 be better than 1600 on T3i/T2i/7D?

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From my own experience 5d 6400 looks a lot like 7d's 1600. So I think you 'll be happy with what you ll get!

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Thanks so much! And RLPhoto too.

Good luck guys.

I also agree on the 24-70 II.

The existing 24-70 is the one lens I would pick if I could only have 1 lens for life. If I had to sell every other lens to get the 24-70 II, I think I would! Gonna be awesome.

That and the 70-200 and you are covered for 90% of pro work, then fill in with your specialty: 24L, 200L, Tilt Shift, etc.

Cheers! Michael

Best,
Michael

Tcapp said:

Quasimodo said:

charlesa said:

You cannot replicate a polarizer in Photoshop. GND yes, CPL, no.

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Ok? Why? Is it because the informaton on the RAW file is insuffisient, thus not giving you the range to tweak in pp? I thought that you could alter the type of saturation through masking afterwards. If this is right, and I am not suggesting that you and Neuro are wrong, means that I will have to get a CPL for all my lenses, before I take a plunge into Lee.

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When you boost saturation in Photoshop, you can introduce noise, artifacts, and other funky undesired effects. If you do it via physical filter, the saturation is real and looks better.I guess its kinda like digital zoom vs optical zoom. If you "zoom" digitally your really just making things worse. The only way to get a good result is to make the modification before the capture.

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Also, reducing unwanted reflections increases detail in certain subjects (such as rocks and leaves), that can't be recovered in PP. More than amy other filter, a CPL is the one that can't be replicated in PP. Bear in mind though, that they work best when the light source is at 90 degrees, so if the sun is directly in front or behind, then they will have little or no effect, unless you also have water or other shiny surfaces coming into play. While to some degree, the effects of ND grads can be replicated in PP, that only goes so far, if part of the image is too blown, then no amount of recovery will recover it, so then ND grads also become vital and can't be reporduced. While HDR will recover detail, they often don't look natural, without a lot of care and some scenes (such as those containing high contrast transitions and snow) really don't work with HDR.

I'm sure if the demand was there Canon will only be too happy to sell us a new 400 DO.

Personally if I had to carry a bit extra weight knowing I'm getting better IQ with the heavier lens, I'll take the heavier lens every time.

Mind you, in another twenty years I might change my mind once middle age catches up with me

I may have found an answer to my own question and stumbled across this by accident just moments after posting..strange

if interested you can view this: http://www.sekonic.com/Classroom/Webinars/Measuring-and-Evaluating-Light-in-Landscape-Photography.aspx

bdunbar79 said:

I am happy with it too, but you know how it is, when you get something new you maybe hope it may do the 1/3 stops of 1/640 and 1/800 8)

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It is only a minimum - so in bright light I am often much faster

Dont forget you can dial in min/max ISO too - again full stops. My 1D4 is set for L/6400

Another alternative is to set the Safety shift to TV/AV and shoot on TV

In Tv mode, the Tv/Av Safety Shift behaves the same way only changing the shutter speed instead. For a required exposure of f/1.4 at 1/250th with a lens that can only open up to f/2.8, Safety Shift would cause the camera to drop the shutter speed to 1/60th to insure a proper exposure. Alternatively, an exposure that required an aperture smaller than the lens could produce would result in shortening the shutter speed until the exposure was correct. With Autoiso set then this only shifts when the ISO limit is reached.

This gives you the fine control over the shutter speed

Share price is a poor indicator of the health of a company

To complete your POV how about posting some similar pics you shot with the D800.

Interesting way to make money

http://news.yahoo.com/video/vacationers-hollywood-personal-paparazzi-080000548.html

@Axilrod

Are people seriously trying to say there aren't any benefits to using rigs/follow focus/etc.?

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No. I have 1 rig which is unbeatable when the rare occasion demands it (moving shots down stairs) and a stabilser which is unbeatable when the occassion demands it (like a 360 inverted hand held track)

For the other 99% of occassions I go to my manfrotto video monopod or sachtler ACE tripod.

If by necessity I'm shooting lots of handheld I'll shoot with an ENG camera.

neuroanatomist said:

No creep on mine. Not only that, but holding it and swinging, I need a lot of centrifugal force to get the zoom to extend - softball bat swing type force takes it to 50-70mm but not all the way out, a tennis backhand volley swing and the barrel doesn't move.

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Fascinating description of your "centrifuge"-test - makes me wonder what
else you use the camera for - besides participating in sports ^^

brilliant!

BjornO said:

Look at http://bbs.news.163.com/bbs/shishi/149311320.html

It seems to have been posted in 2009!

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Ive found it too. What Ive found out is that it was uploaded days (8/21/2009) before 7D was announced (9/1/2009) - so maybe its a foto of a prototype that surfaced as 7D or...more probably a fake.

Louis said:

No thats ok guys, I was just wondering what the best write speed cards to use for this 5D3?

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I use the Sandisk Extreme Pro cards. I almost filled up the 64 GB card I was using (LRaw + JPEG), but it seemed to write pretty quick (90MB/sec).

paul13walnut5 said:

L lenses are great, but the very fast lenses are unusable for video wide open- you would want a 40" plasma in order to check focus, and good luck trying to follow focus in the camera or subject is moving.

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This really isn't true. With a decent loupe or evf, possibly paired with a follow focus and maybe the focus peaking on magic lantern, focussing with fast primes wide open isn't a problem. It may not be the case that you can immediately nail focus, but with a little practice it's quite do-able.

Particularly if you're shooting under controlled conditions fast primes wide open are completely viable. Even if you aren't, but want the super shallow DOF aesthetic and are reasonable at pulling focus it's fine.

It would certainly be worthwhile to run at least 1 DSLR, maybe 2, if you are going to get the C300 and another semi-pro camera. You can also throw some cheap, older HD Canon camcorders in the bag

(Canon has 45% off on clearence, refurbished consumer camcorders right now. Do a search at fatwallet.com, etc. About $150 for small HD cam.)

There is no easy way to get that beautiful large chip, cinematic "look" with a smaller chip camera. That is why the DSLR's sparked such a huge video revolution only 4+- years ago.

You might find more detailed information on a site like dvxuser.com


As far as the T4i, a few small things:

a) It will automatically restart a second, third, etc. file as the first file comes up to teh 4GB size

b) It has a two stage heat warning built in. It will show yellow when it is getting warm, then red before it shoyts down.

c) In good light, the face tracking algorithm, along with the touch screen and Servo Auto focus will do an excellent job of tracking a persons face and keeping that. This will help the T4i reach more into what was, traditionally, "camcorder" territory. How far depends on your needs and use.

If you want to see some beautiful large chip depth of field, this Nike ad is beautiful (not sure what camera, this is big, big budget stuff too, etc.):

Nike: "Voices"


Good luck!
Michael

Dylan777 said:

I like the shirt ;D

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LOL..thanks.
A lot of this was shot on Memorial Day...when I fire up the smoker and cook all day. That usually turns out to be very messy business...so, I have a number of old cooking shirts I keep around for just these occasions.

I guess planning out ahead would be better....for wardrobe....that old cut up, polo button down shirt does make me look a bit like Larry the Cable Guys, doesn't it...?


Thanks,

C

Wait for the replacement. I hate the image quality from the 7D.

Thats just what happens when ones horizon is not much wider than across the street

Thanks for the info. I will be a future owner of the Hahnel Giga T Pro II..... Thanks again to everyone who responded......

Lot's of good feedback and info...just what I was looking for.

Thanks everyone.

Ah thanks guys, some great tips. I will probably use my 35L next time. I only had my 135L with me and the room was really small so I couldnt back up. I wasnt expecting to take pictures so I didnt bring anything else, but then i couldnt resist the temptation to get it out of the car!

Just for a laugh, here is one i got a second later after saying something daft. I just want to capture some of this personality now in a shot that isnt missing half of her forhead! I think the tip to slightly underexpose is good too. Possibly the pale skin and grey hair and white backround threw off the exposure. Ill try and hunt out some softer light next time.

Thank you. Using a gripped 5d mark III and 70-300 F4-5.6L from up in the stands.