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Loswr
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Mr Bean said:
Thanks!
This was a simple (read: I was in a hurry because I didn't know how long the mantis would hang around in the yard) setup. Just the MT-24EX mounted via its included mounting ring, directly on the end of the MP-E 65mm lens. The shot was handheld.
I do have an RRS macro rail setup, and for the MT-24EX, I often use a pair of Wimberley F-2 brackets for the heads, which allows more flexibility in positioning the heads. I also sometimes use a 600EX-RT on an RRS bracket with an extension, to light the background (optically slaved to the MT-24EX as master).
Here's that rig set up with the 100L:
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Loswr
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eli452 said:
Based on subject size and desired framing - the 100L if I want up to 1:1 mag (or need more working distance), the MP-E 65 if I want more than 1:1 mag.
In this case, I used both. The mantis was ~3.5" (9 cm) long, so I took wider shots (like this one of him eating a cricket with the 100L, and close-ups with the MP-E 65 (only about 1/3 of him fits in the MP-E frame at 1x, and that lens cannot shoot any wider that 1x mag).
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neuroanatomist said:
I agree! Nice shot and lighting.
I have only borrowed this lens for one weekend, and I found it quite hard to use. Besides... using my 100L macro is fairly easy, and I can lean on a wall for support. Going into the MP-E 65 requires a substantial investment in additional gear with quality macro rails and flashes, but most of all you need to have time
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neuroanatomist said:I do have an RRS macro rail setup, and for the MT-24EX, I often use a pair of Wimberley F-2 brackets for the heads, which allows more flexibility in positioning the heads. I also sometimes use a 600EX-RT on an RRS bracket with an extension, to light the background (optically slaved to the MT-24EX as master).
Here's that rig set up with the 100L:
neuro (or anyone using similar setup),
How about using 3 600RT's with ST-E3-RT i.e. 2 600RTs to replace the MT-24EX heads?
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Loswr
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eli452 said:
Sure, that would work. The Wimberley F-2 brackets that I'm using to hold the twin flash heads are robust enough to support my 600's. The downside to using a pair of 600's to replace the MT-24EX is that the former option is much bulkier (and heavier). The upside is that you'd get rid of the cables. The extra power really isn't needed that close to the subject.
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neuroanatomist said:Here's that rig set up with the 100L:
Neuro, great seeing your portable setup (and very nice portrait of the mantis!). A few questions:
1) Do you see any benefits of using the omni-bounce on the MT-24EX? I think it's there in your setup, but I wonder about its effectiveness taking into account the suggested use of the omni-bounce versus the nature of macro lighting.
2) I really like the idea of the extension bracket for background light. Have you experienced any problems with line-of-sight contact getting the flash to fire?
3) I've been tempted by the MP-E 65mm for a while. Do you use the use Canon's hood on it? If so, what's your experience, particularly if attaching the MT-24 EX directly to the lens with the ring adapter?
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Loswr
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pensive tomato said:
1) Benefits are probably minor in terms of direct light on the subject. Relative to the size of the subject at the distance from the flash heads, even the small heads of the MT-24EX as bare flash are like taking a portrait of a person with a 6-foot softbox - you're going to get soft light regardless. But the diffusers do throw a little but of that light in other directions, which can be helpful.
2) I haven't had any issues triggering the slave 600 using the MT-24EX as an optical master. You do need to make sure the slave sensor (the black 'window' above red panel for the AF assist lamp on the flash) is not pointed completely away from the twin flash. I wonder if having the StoFen diffusers throwing some light around from the twin flash heads actually helps there, particularly with non-reflective subjects?
3) I have Canon's little hood for it…I use it when I've got the twin flash heads on the Wimberley F-2 brackets, but not when I'm mounting the flash directly to the lens. The reason for that is that I use a filter (B+W MRC) on the lens. Without getting into a whole debate on protection value vs. IQ of filters, I'll say that with the extremely short working distance of the MP-E 65 at high mag, with that lens in particular things are likely to come into contact with the front element (despite it's small size). I'm often shoving the front of the lens into bushes, so the hood wouldn't offer too much protection. As you may be aware, the twin flash can mount directly onto the lens barrel, and the hood can be screwed into the filter threads at the end of the barrel. But, if you put a clear/UV filter on the threads, you can no longer mount the twin flash holder ring directly to the barrel. Instead, I use a Macrolite 58C adapter (normally used to mount the twin flash to a 58mm-threaded lens without the ridge for it, like the old 100mm non-USM macro or a PowerShot G-series). The adapter screws onto the front threads of the UV filter, and the flash mounts to that. However, the Macrolite adapter doesn't have threads for the little hood. So, given the choice between the limited protection offered by the hood but direct flash mounting vs. good protection with a filter but no hood with direct flash mounting, I chose the latter.
Hope that helps...
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neuroanatomist said:
Most definitively! Thanks for all the info and tips. Good point about light perhaps bouncing a bit and helping communication with the master. I've used the 600EX as a background light on a stand, which works fine with macros of static subjects, but I like the idea of a more portable solution. I've run into some of the issues you described at the end of your post while using the 100mm macro with the MT-24EX. That made me wonder about the usefulness of the hood, so it's great to have your take on that.
Thanks a lot!
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I own a pair of Wimberley macro brackets myself but almost never use them with my MP-E 65 + MT-24EX. Usually in the field I am trying to minimize the size of my lighting because otherwise it bumps into everything.
I started with the Stofen diffusers + the MP-E 65 hood (many don't know there is an actual hood for it - and I consider it essential). They are OK and do well in tight environments, but for most cases I use these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-MT-24EX-Flash-Diffusers-/271382364150?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraFlashUnits_JN&hash=item3f2fa63ff6.
The following shot was taken with them.
JSC_5453-Edit.jpg by CalevPhoto, on Flickr
I started with the Stofen diffusers + the MP-E 65 hood (many don't know there is an actual hood for it - and I consider it essential). They are OK and do well in tight environments, but for most cases I use these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-MT-24EX-Flash-Diffusers-/271382364150?pt=UK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraFlashUnits_JN&hash=item3f2fa63ff6.
The following shot was taken with them.
JSC_5453-Edit.jpg by CalevPhoto, on Flickr
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Fantastic images. I have problems getting to 1:1 with the 100mm. How do you get this close, without scaring off the insects?ncsa said:
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