Reports of the Canon EOS-1D X Mark III going to sleep/locking up briefly
- Thread starter Canon Rumors Guy
- Start date
This is only speculation. And I dont think a failure is a "minor bug".
The 1DX II had a bug where it randomly (about once per hour) freezed while recording. The bug only happend when an HDMI cable was connected. The bad thing was, the recording was GONE when the camera froze. It took them more than 2 years to fix this via firmware!!! I send it 2 times to CPS (they replaced the mainboard) whitout success, until they luckily finaly released the firmware update.
We will see what happens here. In my opinion this may happen on a "fun" camera in the lowest price segment. But If I carry such an expensive camera I expect it to work 100% (even if I have a backup).
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We pay premium for the 1D models with over 7000$, so I think its only fair to expect a premium quality guaranteed... I think its certainly not the photographers fault, If he uses a new top of the line model...
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Not me. But you'll start to see issues we knew about and said. "We will wait". Canon will address them. And as usual for us getting a camera first, giving our observations we are ridiculed. Wait for the next production run!!!!!
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It's during VIDEO recording where the Autofocus has SIGNIFICANTLY IMPROVED !!! I noticed it on my soccer (i.e. Football) shots where I was shooting segments of video and stills on the 1Dx3 . On MOST action video shots, I felt that the video of faces and feet seem much more in-focus more of the time than when shooting 1/1000th at ISO 6400 on rainy day stills.
I still nailed many of the stills but BECAUSE i was shooting at ISO 6400 at 1/1000th in horrid lighting conditions means your bad photos vs good photos ratio will go up NO MATTER WHAT --- BUT --- I should note that at 1/1000th of a second shutter speed, at least ONE to FOUR of your "Spray and Prays" WILL LIKELY BE A GREAT SHOT !!! All you need to do then after FREEZING your action, is to CROP HARD during post production to editorialize your image making it seem even MORE sporty and action-ey !!!
With the 1Dx3, i also notice that I now take more risks in terms of composition and shoot-anyways even when horrid light is present because the camera CAN do that while with the 1Dx2 I wouldn't have bothered because the shadows and highlights would have been a mess! The 1Dx3 doesn't blow out my highlights or shred my shadows so I can get away with the higher shutter speed and higher ISOs!
In terms of super-tack-sharp focus, I think that is more of a USER ISSUE than a camera issue, in that you need to ANTICIPATE the action and HAND-SET or let the autofocus focus to a specific spot JUST BEFORE the desired field of play and let the action come into that "Area Box of Play" and then spray some Full Burst Rate images knowing that your will get two to 4 good ones!
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On a general basis, I do find almost ALL video functions on the Canon 1Dx3 are a SIGNIFICANT improvement over the 1Dx2! Specifically less blowouts in the highlights and less muddy shadows at higher ISOs and higher Shutter speeds. The VIDEO focus seems A LOT FASTER on faces and feet/legs !!! I should also note the actual 4K video quality of the 1Dx3 IS QUITE A BIT CLEANER AND BETTER over the 1Dx2.
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For Stills, again you can shoot higher ISOs and faster shutter speeds without too much noise so focus issues MAY be more problematic for YOU simply because of changing shooting styles. On stills, I have NOT NOTICED any significant focus speed differences between 1Dx3 vs 1Dx2 on faces .....BUT..... I have noticed an improvement on EYE FOCUS !!! Eyes DEFINITELY seem to be acquired faster than before!
I still think the Sony A9-2 is slightly better than the 1Dx3 at following people during high-motion events where people are crossing paths frequently (i.e. Soccer and Hockey!), but Canon is definitely catching up! I would say that AFTER the Olympics when the next MAJOR BIOS UPDATE has been properly tested in the wild (probably in November or December 2020!) is where I see Canon actually MATCHING SONY for catching and re-acquiring sharp focus on specific athletes who cross paths quickly!
In terms of overall actual fastest-speed-to-tack-sharp-focus, I personally think the Nikon D850 is BEST but that is a subjective opinion only! Even the higher end Nikon D5 or Sony A9-2 doesn't seem to be as good as the Nikon D850!
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NO! The Camera Reboot function is STILL usually hardcoded to a HARD INTERRUPT but sleep mode and sensor cleaning can be delayed to a later time and NOT during other higher priority asks. This is more likely to do with an inappropriate setting of the BIOS'es internal task scheduler AND/OR not letting CURRENT tasks be interrupted by other triggered tasks (i.e. not allowing CPU core context switches within low-priority tasks!) Low priority tasks NEED to be re-entrant!
These new DIGICS have between 4 to 8 cores, so Canon can assign one core for a POLLED interrupt service routine that handles ONLY low-priority tasks that are INTERRUPTIBLE themselves! In many cases, since sensor cleaning tends to be a For-Next or Do-While LOOPED 2D-XY routine, just interrupt it after the current single axis of the loop is completed and save the current X,Y location so you can go back to it when the other higher priority tasks are complete. For the Sleep mode, if currently running high priority tasks are STILL being done THEN DON'T INTERRUPT IT at all for ANY go-to-sleep trigger!
These take about an hour to actually fix the source code but WEEKS of testing in the real world!
I suspect our FIRST BIOS update won't take place until late April 2020.
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Thanks for the overview, some really encouraging feedback. I whole heartedly agree with you with regards to pre-focussing. I have until October to make up my mind, so I will wait to see if more people can confirm your findings. After all, it is quite an investment!
I agree with the Nikon, too bad I am heavily invested in Canon glass.
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I've gone through as much of the manual and settings as I've could and there doesn't seem to be a solution for this particular use case. Shooting in burst appears to make it a little less apparent, and if you keep your finger half-pressed on the shutter it'll remain live, but ultimately soon as you shoot and let go it falls to sleep.
I've sent an email to Canon and they gave me a number to reach out to, which I'll be calling today.
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My 1DX MIII has repeatedly and unpredictably locked up, always during pauses between shots, never while buffering. GPS indicator on lower rear LCD is on, but that screen is otherwise blank & the other two screens and viewfinder indicators are completely blank. Camera unresponsive to pressing any button. Even turning camera off then on does nothing. It reliably comes back to life immediately if battery is popped out and popped right back in. To me, this sounds like a firmware problem responding to forced reboot after battery removal. Canon Support says they've not had a similar complaint. No success in past with Canon Factory Service fixing anything that occurs only intermittently. They always say that it worked fine for them during the 10 minutes they had it on the bench, and they send it back unrepaired with their sincerest wish that I have a nice day. Returned camera to vendor to await a replacement. Don't know when that will occur given backorder situation that is potentially worsened by Coronavirus supply chain issues. I too am unimpressed by low light performance. One expects reduced noise in exchange for larger pixels, but I'm not really seeing it in images. High ISO images nearly as grainy as my 5D4 and low pixel count seriously limits cropping potential.
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Yep happened to me twice this weekend photographing a debutante gala. I was shooting quickly 1 photo every 1-2 sec and all the screen info disappeared for 3-4 sec. Shutter was non responsive. I was using the SanDisk card it came with, 70-200 2.8 II, and 600ex II rt (with a bolt battery pack). Camera worked extremely well the rest of the day. Shot over 5k with multiple situations and multiple lenses. At one point I was taking 5-6 photos every 1-2 sec with 30 sec between bursts for 20 straight minutes and it worked brilliantly.
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I agree with the low light performance...its ok but not great. Focusing is amazing as is the overall speed of the camera.
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I personally have NOT SEEN the unprompted sensor cleaning or go-to-sleep problem that people have been reporting here but that doesn't mean it's not there. Again, I believe it is to do with a BADLY PRIORITIZED task schedule in the DIGIC processor's Interrupt Tables. That's easy enough to fix. All they have to do is LOWER the priority level and make those sensor cleaning or go-to-sleep tasks "Re-Entrant" -- PROBLEM SOLVED !!!
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The ONLY OTHER THING for those people upgrading from the 1Dx Mk1 and 1Dx Mk2 is that YOU WILL BE CHANGING your shooting styles because of the 20 fps burst rate. You NEED to Boost Your ISO to 3200 or 6400 or even 12800 if your lighting is a tad wonky and START at 1/200th of a second shutter speed for your action shots. 1/1000th is a good speed to use for Basketball, Hockey, Soccer, Skiing, F1 car racing, American Football or Rugby.
For the more sedate sports or better lit venues such as Horse Races, Dog Shows, Rodeo, Horse Jumping, Gymnastics, Swimming, Track and Field, Pool/Snooker, Darts, etc., ISO 800 to ISO 1600 at 1/400th to 1/800th shutter speed is probably good enough for you.
For concerts with smoke and RGB lighting that changes colour and/or flashes randomly. You're going to need to goto ISO 12,800 at 1/200th to 1/600th shutter speed depending on the lighting. You CAN push it to 1/1000th but I would use a Speedlite with soft diffusion/spun on it so you don't blind the band members!
For landscapes, I'm shooting on a tripod at ISO 800 on slow shutter speeds such as 1/30th to 2 seconds depending upon how "Dreamy" I want the scene to look!
For video, I ALWAYS SHOOT at Twice the speed of the frame rate! For 60 fps, I'm shooting at 1/120th of a second shutter speed or at 24 fps it's 1/48th of a second, 30 fps is 1/60th of a second, and in HD 120 fps it's 1/240th of a second. ISO can be anywhere you feel comfortable but for 24 fps to 60 fps video, I would say ISO 800 to ISO 1600 is best! for 120 fps HD video you might have to bump up to ISO 3200 !
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So far so good! No complaints hereabout the Canon 1Dx Mk3!
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All need now is a Canon L-series stabilized-lens FAST f/4 to f/5.6 120 mm to 800 mm sports zoom!
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Harry, to preserve your health as we value your contributions here, avoid smoke-filled rooms and don't try and hand hold the Canon L-series stabilized-lens FAST f/4 to f/5.6 120 mm to 800 mm sports zoom just because it's stabilised.
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Correction it was a 200-800/F4 with x1.4 inbuilt teleconvertor Zoom lens. Submersible supersonic and motorised. Did I miss anything?
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Thanks for confirmation. Maybe Canon will start looking for fix. For me this wasn't a few second pause. I waited at least a full minute for the bricked camera to wake up, to no avail. Then, removing battery restored normal functionality until the next time. Prior shooting parameters varied. Sometimes high FPS, sometimes single shot. Always manual exposure settings.
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Actually, we own 100 of them 120mm to 800mm lenses (SERIOUSLY! We actually DID build them ourselves out quartz elements for Infrared light photography and WE use them for the new DCI 8K/50.3 megapixel stills/video MF camera!) -- We wouldn't NEED to use 10 elements because when you have micro-sized magnetorheological fluid shocks supporting each element in its tubular enclosure, we can move SINGLE lens elements back and forth and rotate on any 3D-XYZ axis, so we don't need all those fancy lens elements that Canon, Sigma, Leica or Arri/Zeiss use!
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NO! NO! NO! It's 120mm to 800 mm !!!!..... I will ask to put in a 2.x extender on the next batch! Actually, WAIT !!!! I will see if we can put in a single-module 1.4x AND a 2.0x extender unit into the new lens itself! These new lenses aren't for Full Frame though, they're for the NEW Medium Format DCI 8K/50.3 megapixels GLOBAL SHUTTER combined stills/video camera coming out soon enough.
No Need for the motorisation as they are already full servo-zooms controllable from your shoulder rig or from the lens or body (AND the rocker switch handgrip is removable!).
The NEW 120 to 800mm zooms ARE submersible with IP-69 and MilSpec 810-G ratings as is the new camera body! We SEAL the sensor from the environment much like what is done on B4-mount broadcast video shoulder mount cameras! (i.e. Sony HD-CAM / Betacam SX-style)
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It's because I FEEL AWESOME while in my probably undiagnosed delusions!
On the internet, no-one really knows I'm just a cat with four paws and a wicked sandpaper-like tongue!
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Although, I should note, just because you don't believe me DOES NOT MEAN, that everything I've been saying here isn't the actual truth!
...
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Y(CuO2)2Mg3Al2(SiO4)3Ga(NO2)2
Yttrium DiCopper Tetraoxide + (Garnet) + Gallium DiNitrogen Tetroxide
*** Garnet = Pyrope = Mg3Al2(SiO4)3
THE ABOVE is a ROOM TEMPERATURE SUPERCONDUCTOR that starts working from about 10 degrees Celcius (or 283.15 Kelvin) up to to 180 Degrees Celcius (or 453.15 Kelvin).
The 10 degrees Celcius lower limit is due to the Gallium (i'm not the chemist so don't ask me WHY!)
The reason WHY the Magnesium Aluminates and Silicates were ADDED, is that very much like a WIRE COVERING is used to protects the copper conductor in your household electrical lines, the Yttrium Copper and Gallium Tetroxide compounds are protected from outside influences by the Garnet compounds so that FREE ELECTRON FLOW (i.e. ROOM TEMPERATURE superconductivity!) may occur within TUNNELS OF SUPERCONDUCTIVITY!
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The Garnet performs as the protective "wire-covering" and the Gallium is KEY to allowing the Yttrium Copper Oxides to lose all resistance AT ROOM TEMPERATURE AND BEYOND!
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Sooooooo, WHEN IS APPLE coming out with their NEW DCI 8K/50.3 megapixels at 60 fps and 16 bits per RGBA/YCbCrA pixel combined Stills/Video Medium Format Global Shutter Camera AND the new 2/3rds inch and APS-C sensor ruggedized IP-68 supersmartphones AND those new plastic and metal powder 3D printers ???
It's SOONER THAT YOU THINK !!!
P.S.2. You Heard It Here FIRST !!!!!!!!
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Is THAT a good enough explanation for ya?
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