Clamp for Black Rapid

RGF

How you relate to the issue, is the issue.
Jul 13, 2012
2,820
39
Hi

I am interested in a clamp to hold camera /lens on a black rapid strap.

For small to medium sized rigs, which RRS clamp works well (I won't say best). Any other brands recommended?

For big glass (200-400 or 600 F4) do I need a larger clamp?

What about QR level. Concerned that the lever may open if I catch it on something.

Thanks
 
Mar 25, 2011
16,847
1,835
I use a one inch clamp from Kirk, which I purchased after Neuro recommended it. I have several Kirk clamps, they work very well. I attach the BR screw to it securely with lots of torque so it does not loosen (Neuro uses locktite). Then, I clamp to the AS plate on my camera or lens. The Kirk Clamp has never loosened for me.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/555485-REG/Kirk_QRC_1_0_QRC_1_Quick_Release_Clamp.html
 
Upvote 0

kjay27

CR Pro
Jul 17, 2013
15
0
I've followed Mt Spokane and Neuro recommendations on equipment and found them to be spot on every time, so you should check out the Kirk equipment. Just to let you know, though, RRS does have clamps made especially for the Black Rapid. I personally use the RRS B2-FABN screw-knob style clamp and I really like it. The heaviest equipment I've used with it is the 6D with the 70-300 4-5.6L IS and it works great. I got the screw knob style because I don't switch equipment around very often when I'm wearing the BR strap, and I thought it would be more secure.
 
Upvote 0
Jul 21, 2010
31,228
13,089
No need for a bigger clamp – wider jaws help with balance and to resist torque in the regular orientation, but since the clamp will be 'upside down' hanging from the strap there's no advantage to a wider clamp. I'd never use a lever clamp for this application.

I have Kirk 1" clamps on both my BR straps, one of which is the lefty Sport-L that I use to carry my 1D X + 600/4 II.

When I started using this setup, the RRS clamp wasn't a viable option - their B2-FAB was their offering, and it has little nubs on the bottom that prevent the BR lug from sitting properly. Usually, RRS advice is excellent - in this case, their advice was to 'mash the rubber washer down onto the nubs, or just file the nubs off'. I bought the Kirk clamp, after telling them that their advice was rather lame. Apparently, I wasn't the only one who thought so, a while later RRS came out with a flat-bottom version of the B2-FAB specifically for a BR-type setup (I guess the N stands for 'no nubs'). Even so, when I needed a second clamp for a second BR strap, I went with the Kirk clamp - extra jaw length really doesn't add any security, and I prefer the 1" Kirk clamp to the 1.5" RRS clamp, especially if I need to grip around it (e.g. attached to the camera plate and using a vertical/portrait grip).
 
Upvote 0
kjay27 said:
I've followed Mt Spokane and Neuro recommendations on equipment and found them to be spot on every time, so you should check out the Kirk equipment. Just to let you know, though, RRS does have clamps made especially for the Black Rapid. I personally use the RRS B2-FABN screw-knob style clamp and I really like it. The heaviest equipment I've used with it is the 6D with the 70-300 4-5.6L IS and it works great. I got the screw knob style because I don't switch equipment around very often when I'm wearing the BR strap, and I thought it would be more secure.

+1. The heaviest lenses I generally use the RRS B2-FABN with a bit of walking are the 70-200 II and the 100-400 II (paired with 5DIII) and that's usually clamped to the camera L-plate and not the lens foot (prefer the lens hanging down rather than swinging laterally). Heaviest lens I've used with the foot -- 300 f/2.8 IS II with 2x.
 
Upvote 0

FEBS

Action Photography
CR Pro
I use the Acratech Swift Clamp on my Black Rapids with 70-200 II, 10-400II, 300 2.8II. The 600 II is nt used by me on the black rapid. Very satisfied there about.

swift_clamp_bottom_2_flip__55937.1375896706.1280.1280.jpg
 
Upvote 0

RGF

How you relate to the issue, is the issue.
Jul 13, 2012
2,820
39
FEBS said:
I use the Acratech Swift Clamp on my Black Rapids with 70-200 II, 10-400II, 300 2.8II. The 600 II is nt used by me on the black rapid. Very satisfied there about.

swift_clamp_bottom_2_flip__55937.1375896706.1280.1280.jpg

Thanks

Clamp looks interesting but expensive. Especially with the lock on the lever. I have Acratech heads and they work well.
 
Upvote 0

mnclayshooter

I love shooting - clay pigeons and photos!
Oct 28, 2013
314
0
Minnesota, USA
neuroanatomist said:
I have Kirk 1" clamps on both my BR straps, one of which is the lefty Sport-L that I use to carry my 1D X + 600/4 II.

+1 for this setup with the 1" Kirk clamp. Works perfectly 100% of the time for me - I commonly carry my 100-400 mounted on the BR strap when on nature walks/hikes... or a 70-200... Neither are particularly boat anchors but they aren't feathers either.

neuroanatomist said:
(I guess the N stands for 'no nubs').

Or Neuro?
 
Upvote 0

scottkinfw

Wildlife photography is my passion
CR Pro
The RRS is $70.00, the Kirk is $40.00, so that is a consideration.

Sek

RGF said:
Hi

I am interested in a clamp to hold camera /lens on a black rapid strap.

For small to medium sized rigs, which RRS clamp works well (I won't say best). Any other brands recommended?

For big glass (200-400 or 600 F4) do I need a larger clamp?

What about QR level. Concerned that the lever may open if I catch it on something.

Thanks
 
Upvote 0
Jul 21, 2010
31,228
13,089
Hector1970 said:
You might consider this
http://fpgear.com/
I think this is the ideal solution for the issue.

Interesting solution! I have a couple of issues with it. First, there's no L-bracket option. That lack also confounds use on a lens foot, since different connections would be required for lens vs. L-bracket. Second, it requires you to use the BR carabiner to attach/remove the connection. That takes longer than the Kirk clamp, and is a connection that many found to inadvertently come open (thus BR's add-on solutions).
 
Upvote 0

Hector1970

CR Pro
Mar 22, 2012
1,554
1,162
neuroanatomist said:
Hector1970 said:
You might consider this
http://fpgear.com/
I think this is the ideal solution for the issue.

Interesting solution! I have a couple of issues with it. First, there's no L-bracket option. That lack also confounds use on a lens foot, since different connections would be required for lens vs. L-bracket. Second, it requires you to use the BR carabiner to attach/remove the connection. That takes longer than the Kirk clamp, and is a connection that many found to inadvertently come open (thus BR's add-on solutions).

But you can fit it to an L-Bracket , my L-Bracket is fitted with a clamp that this fits into. The whole idea is to use the BR carabiner to attach and remove the connection. This is a robust way to be able to switch between having it on an L-Bracket and a Black Rapid. Almost any connection could come open. Blue loctite would keep it secure. Attaching one of these would be more robust that Black Rapids normal connection which can easily unscrew.
I had a look at your solution before but I was unsure about it. Maybe I didn't fully understand it but I had concerns that a clamp that was holding it together, I felt it was the most likely thing to accidently open.
 
Upvote 0
Jul 21, 2010
31,228
13,089
Hector1970 said:
neuroanatomist said:
Hector1970 said:
You might consider this
http://fpgear.com/
I think this is the ideal solution for the issue.

Interesting solution! I have a couple of issues with it. First, there's no L-bracket option. That lack also confounds use on a lens foot, since different connections would be required for lens vs. L-bracket. Second, it requires you to use the BR carabiner to attach/remove the connection. That takes longer than the Kirk clamp, and is a connection that many found to inadvertently come open (thus BR's add-on solutions).

But you can fit it to an L-Bracket , my L-Bracket is fitted with a clamp that this fits into. The whole idea is to use the BR carabiner to attach and remove the connection. This is a robust way to be able to switch between having it on an L-Bracket and a Black Rapid. Almost any connection could come open. Blue loctite would keep it secure. Attaching one of these would be more robust that Black Rapids normal connection which can easily unscrew.
I had a look at your solution before but I was unsure about it. Maybe I didn't fully understand it but I had concerns that a clamp that was holding it together, I felt it was the most likely thing to accidently open.

So you have an L-bracket, a double clamp like the RRS B2-Duo, then the Fusion plate? If so, that sounds overly complex, and uncomfortable to hold in portrait orientation. Also, you're still relying on a clamp. Maybe I am not understanding your setup.

The Kirk clamp is quite secure (which is good, because I'm often dangling $20K in gear from it!).
 
Upvote 0

JMZawodny

1Dx2, 7D2 and lots of wonderful glass!
Sep 19, 2014
382
11
Virginia
Joe.Zawodny.com
takesome1 said:
I went with Wimberly's C-12.
Up to and including my 500mm I have never had a failure.
I chose to stay away from the quick levers because of the chance of failure.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/687461-REG/Wimberley_C_12_C_12_Quick_Release_Clamp.html

I'm sorry, but I do not see a clamp for a lens foot as an acceptable solution. Someone like RRS needs to make a flip out ring as part of their lens feet and/or body brackets so that I can attach my Black Rapid clips directly to the RRS HW. (Under the new patent regulations, by disclosing this concept I relinquish all patent rights into the open and free domain - and I'm good with that. Let the first to file race begin!)
 
Upvote 0
JMZawodny said:
takesome1 said:
I went with Wimberly's C-12.
Up to and including my 500mm I have never had a failure.
I chose to stay away from the quick levers because of the chance of failure.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/687461-REG/Wimberley_C_12_C_12_Quick_Release_Clamp.html

I'm sorry, but I do not see a clamp for a lens foot as an acceptable solution. Someone like RRS needs to make a flip out ring as part of their lens feet and/or body brackets so that I can attach my Black Rapid clips directly to the RRS HW. (Under the new patent regulations, by disclosing this concept I relinquish all patent rights into the open and free domain - and I'm good with that. Let the first to file race begin!)

It is not lust a clamp for feet. It is Arcs Swiss comparable. Since every lens and body I have I mount a Arca Swiss plate everything attaches. It is no different than the Kirk or RRS others mention. Although I have the Kirk version also and Wimberly is much sturdier.

Why would RRS make a flip out piece when they can generate another sale by selling the clamps separately?
 
Upvote 0

JMZawodny

1Dx2, 7D2 and lots of wonderful glass!
Sep 19, 2014
382
11
Virginia
Joe.Zawodny.com
takesome1 said:
JMZawodny said:
takesome1 said:
I went with Wimberly's C-12.
Up to and including my 500mm I have never had a failure.
I chose to stay away from the quick levers because of the chance of failure.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/687461-REG/Wimberley_C_12_C_12_Quick_Release_Clamp.html

I'm sorry, but I do not see a clamp for a lens foot as an acceptable solution. Someone like RRS needs to make a flip out ring as part of their lens feet and/or body brackets so that I can attach my Black Rapid clips directly to the RRS HW. (Under the new patent regulations, by disclosing this concept I relinquish all patent rights into the open and free domain - and I'm good with that. Let the first to file race begin!)

It is not lust a clamp for feet. It is Arcs Swiss comparable. Since every lens and body I have I mount a Arca Swiss plate everything attaches. It is no different than the Kirk or RRS others mention. Although I have the Kirk version also and Wimberly is much sturdier.

Why would RRS make a flip out piece when they can generate another sale by selling the clamps separately?

An integrated flip-out ring in a body bracket or lens foot that is firmly screwed to the body/lens is superior to an add-on clamp. Clamps can be inadvertently activated/released. RRS would do it because it was the right way to solve the problem.
(as a matter of full disclosure, I am a RRS fanboy)
 
Upvote 0
JMZawodny said:
takesome1 said:
JMZawodny said:
takesome1 said:
I went with Wimberly's C-12.
Up to and including my 500mm I have never had a failure.
I chose to stay away from the quick levers because of the chance of failure.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/687461-REG/Wimberley_C_12_C_12_Quick_Release_Clamp.html

I'm sorry, but I do not see a clamp for a lens foot as an acceptable solution. Someone like RRS needs to make a flip out ring as part of their lens feet and/or body brackets so that I can attach my Black Rapid clips directly to the RRS HW. (Under the new patent regulations, by disclosing this concept I relinquish all patent rights into the open and free domain - and I'm good with that. Let the first to file race begin!)

It is not lust a clamp for feet. It is Arcs Swiss comparable. Since every lens and body I have I mount a Arca Swiss plate everything attaches. It is no different than the Kirk or RRS others mention. Although I have the Kirk version also and Wimberly is much sturdier.

Why would RRS make a flip out piece when they can generate another sale by selling the clamps separately?

An integrated flip-out ring in a body bracket or lens foot that is firmly screwed to the body/lens is superior to an add-on clamp. Clamps can be inadvertently activated/released. RRS would do it because it was the right way to solve the problem.
(as a matter of full disclosure, I am a RRS fanboy)
I fully agree! I have been wondering many times why RRS have not included such a flip-out ring. It might be that they would sell fewer clamps, but they would compensate for that by selling more brackets. (I'm a RRS fanboy too).
 
Upvote 0