1D Mark IV and indoor basketball question

[bdunbar79]

This winter I'm going to be shooting indoor basketball for a high school in Mansfield, OH. I have a 1D Mark IV that I've used extensively for outdoor well-lit sports (track mainly). To practice, I went to an open-gym just to get an idea on focal lengths and perspectives. The trouble I had was metering. There was a door open at one end of the gym letting massive amounts of outdoor light in, with a huge blown highlight area on the floor. Ok, I can work around that. However, I had trouble metering in the gym and got quite a few over and underexposed images. What is the best way to meter for these situations, such as indoor gyms? I haven't had any trouble outside because that's easier, and controlled portrait indoor light hasn't been a problem. But there are no flashes allowed and I was wondering if there is a more robust way to meter action indoors. I've never done this before. Thanks!

 

[briansquibb]

I would suggest spot metering and ignore the blown backgrounds if that was possible

Else this is time for M mode by taking a few sample shots before the action starts. This will give you opportunity to get the best compromise

 

[bdunbar79]

I would suggest spot metering and ignore the blown backgrounds if that was possible

Else this is time for M mode by taking a few sample shots before the action starts. This will give you opportunity to get the best compromise

So trial and error type thing? Maybe try something more white than gray let's say? Then snap a few shots and check the meter and histogram? Thanks.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I would suggest spot metering and ignore the blown backgrounds if that was possible

Else this is time for M mode by taking a few sample shots before the action starts. This will give you opportunity to get the best compromise

So trial and error type thing? Maybe try something more white than gray let's say? Then snap a few shots and check the meter and histogram? Thanks.

Thats about all you can do, cameras do not have enough DR at higher ISO's to properly expose both bright and dark areas. Even at ISO 100, DR is not able to handle it perfectly, and you are likely to be cranking up the ISO.

 

[bdunbar79]

Ok, thanks guys.

 

[JaxPhotoBuff]

I have been shooting indoor high school basketball for a couple of years now. I am curious when (what time of day) you took your practice shots. I ask because, in my experience, in Jacksonville, Florida, the games are taking place after 6:00 in the evening, in the winter time. This means that, while you can get situations where you have sun coming in some windows in the gym, creating odd lighting conditions for short period of time near sunset, the bigger issue for me has been an overall lack of light. Some of these high school gyms are seriously dark.

I do find that using spot metering, tends to give me optimal results in those moments where there is residual daylight to worry about, so I recommend trying that and using either aperture priority or shutter priority.

You will not have this problem because you're shooting with a 1D Mark IV, but because I shoot with a 40D (soon stepping up to the 1DX), I have had to shoot with shutter priority in order to stop the action. Aperture priority would result in too slow a shutter speed most of the time (for my camera). I cannot shoot at ISOs higher than 6400 at all, and at 6400, I get some pretty bad noise. So, with this old camera, I tend to get shots which stop the action but are under-exposed initially. Then I can boost the exposure and deal with the noise in post. As you might imagine, I am REALLY looking forward the the major improvements that will come with the 1DX.

 

[bdunbar79]

I have been shooting indoor high school basketball for a couple of years now. I am curious when (what time of day) you took your practice shots. I ask because, in my experience, in Jacksonville, Florida, the games are taking place after 6:00 in the evening, in the winter time. This means that, while you can get situations where you have sun coming in some windows in the gym, creating odd lighting conditions for short period of time near sunset, the bigger issue for me has been an overall lack of light. Some of these high school gyms are seriously dark.

I do find that using spot metering, tends to give me optimal results in those moments where there is residual daylight to worry about, so I recommend trying that and using either aperture priority or shutter priority.

You will not have this problem because you're shooting with a 1D Mark IV, but because I shoot with a 40D (soon stepping up to the 1DX), I have had to shoot with shutter priority in order to stop the action. Aperture priority would result in too slow a shutter speed most of the time (for my camera). I cannot shoot at ISOs higher than 6400 at all, and at 6400, I get some pretty bad noise. So, with this old camera, I tend to get shots which stop the action but are under-exposed initially. Then I can boost the exposure and deal with the noise in post. As you might imagine, I am REALLY looking forward the the major improvements that will come with the 1DX.

I went to an OPEN GYM to practice. It's June, and it was 6pm, so there was a lot of light.

Anyways, thanks for your advice. When I go to the next one here in a few days, I am going to practice with spot metering.

 

[briansquibb]

1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

 

[bdunbar79]

1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

Ok Brian, so when I meter, I'll get a correct exposure. THEN, go +1 EC after that? Or, simply meter to +1 (either way I guess)? Thanks.

 

[briansquibb]

1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

Ok Brian, so when I meter, I'll get a correct exposure. THEN, go +1 EC after that? Or, simply meter to +1 (either way I guess)? Thanks.

Just set ec to +1 and take pictures as normal

 

[bdunbar79]

1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

Ok Brian, so when I meter, I'll get a correct exposure. THEN, go +1 EC after that? Or, simply meter to +1 (either way I guess)? Thanks.

Just set ec to +1 and take pictures as normal

Got ya. Thanks!

 

[swampler]

1D4 is fine at iso 6400 just remember to meter to the right by using ec+1

Why not just expose correctly at 3200? You'd get the same shutter speed and less noise.

 

[Hillsilly]

If you haven't already, try changing the custom functions. Under CF IV, you have the ability to use the AF On button for focusing and the shutter button is just used for setting the exposure (and taking the photo!). This way, you can maintain focus on the subject and the camera will continually adjust the exposure depending upon how bright or dark the section of the court is. When its photo time, the camera calculates the exposure required at the time of taking the photo (and not when you first start focusing). This works well when you are dealing with constantly changing lighting.

 

[photophreek]

Look at page 105 of the 1D IV manual. I haven't tried or tested this with my 1D IV, but it would seem that it might help with your shooting situation.

 

[briansquibb]

Look at page 105 of the 1D IV manual. I haven't tried or tested this with my 1D IV, but it would seem that it might help with your shooting situation.

That works well with weddings/landscapes etc - but not for fast moving sport

 

[Hbap085]

That works well with weddings/landscapes etc - but not for fast moving sport

Hi, I am in the process currently of setting up my 7d with back focusing and all information I reference is quite the opposite. Applying AF to the AF-ON button and leaving the shutter button for only the shutter increases speed and is really aimed at sports photography.
I found the following article on Canons website which also references back focusing and being critcal for photographing F1 racing.
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/custom_functions_for_sports_pt1.do

Another article mentions that back focusing was first suggested to canon in the late 80's by sports photographers who wanted this feature.
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

A few other sites I reviewed in the last week;
http://www.kevinmullinsphotography.co.uk/for-photographers/canon-1d-mk-iv-custom-settingssports.html
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/2371
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/eos1d_markIV_custom_functions.do

 

[briansquibb]

That works well with weddings/landscapes etc - but not for fast moving sport

Hi, I am in the process currently of setting up my 7d with back focusing and all information I reference is quite the opposite. Applying AF to the AF-ON button and leaving the shutter button for only the shutter increases speed and is really aimed at sports photography.
I found the following article on Canons website which also references back focusing and being critcal for photographing F1 racing.
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/custom_functions_for_sports_pt1.do

Another article mentions that back focusing was first suggested to canon in the late 80's by sports photographers who wanted this feature.
http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/backbutton_af_article.shtml

A few other sites I reviewed in the last week;
http://www.kevinmullinsphotography.co.uk/for-photographers/canon-1d-mk-iv-custom-settingssports.html
http://www.sportsshooter.com/news/2371
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/eos1d_markIV_custom_functions.do

Not quite sure of the connection between multi point metering and back focussing - or have I misread something?

 

[bdunbar79]

Just catching up on the great information guys. Ok, I'm now familiar with the AE lock button used as focusing per the manual and I did it and can do it just fine. However, I'm a little apprehensive about this, as is Brian, because I just feel as though I'd have a tougher time with speed using another button to focus as I would the shutter and metering. My idea was to blanket meter all shots upfront with the anticipation that the gym lighting won't change throughout the game, meter to the right, and then focus and shoot away throughout the game. However, that feature is really cool!

Brian do you recomment using faux M mode with an ISO range set? Or should I just set the ISO period. Thanks.

 

[briansquibb]

Just catching up on the great information guys. Ok, I'm now familiar with the AE lock button used as focusing per the manual and I did it and can do it just fine. However, I'm a little apprehensive about this, as is Brian, because I just feel as though I'd have a tougher time with speed using another button to focus as I would the shutter and metering. My idea was to blanket meter all shots upfront with the anticipation that the gym lighting won't change throughout the game, meter to the right, and then focus and shoot away throughout the game. However, that feature is really cool!

Brian do you recomment using faux M mode with an ISO range set? Or should I just set the ISO period. Thanks.

I personally set the AV and the minimum TV and leave the iso on auto. Basketball - 1/500th? That way you will get the iso on the minimum possible for the correct exposure

 

[bdunbar79]

Just catching up on the great information guys. Ok, I'm now familiar with the AE lock button used as focusing per the manual and I did it and can do it just fine. However, I'm a little apprehensive about this, as is Brian, because I just feel as though I'd have a tougher time with speed using another button to focus as I would the shutter and metering. My idea was to blanket meter all shots upfront with the anticipation that the gym lighting won't change throughout the game, meter to the right, and then focus and shoot away throughout the game. However, that feature is really cool!

Brian do you recomment using faux M mode with an ISO range set? Or should I just set the ISO period. Thanks.

I personally set the AV and the minimum TV and leave the iso on auto. Basketball - 1/500th? That way you will get the iso on the minimum possible for the correct exposure

Ah I got it now. Shoot in Av mode, min shutter 1/500th, auto ISO, EC +1, for example, if conditions warrant that. Since the metering on the 1D4 is done with the selected AF point. Thanks!