4 stop push: 5DS vs 5D Mk III

I had about 5 minutes at a camera store last night to do some quick shots with the 5Ds. I had my 5D Mk III and 7D MK II with me and I wanted to see how far I can underexpose and then push to recover the files.
I only included the two full frame camera here. The 7D MK II is several stops better than the 5D MK III at low ISO but still behind the 5Ds.

From a pure IQ and RAW leeway aspect, the 5Ds series is a no-brainer. The RAW files are amazing.

full size download: http://www.photographybyrudyconrad.com/5Ds-and-5D-MK-III-4-stop-post-/n-LsGzQg/

Click on photos, then bottom right has download icon.

NOTE: focus point was different for each photo
 

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I have to believe I'll see the same tech in the 5D IV (or whatever it's named) to gain the same in ISO between the two. Given my lack of need for a low frame rate, high MP camera it has me waiting for sure till the 5DIV. Now, that's not a knock against this camera, it'll be great for people who need high MP, low frame rate, it's just the opposite of what I need.
 
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dash2k8 said:
I have no problem with the push comparisons. I would, however, like to ask a question someone else posed before: Does the ability to push shadows a lot necessarily make a picture better?

I suppose it would help someone who royally screwed up their expose somehow by 4 stops. I don't really see the usefulness of the comparison. The 5Ds is really a niche camera for a special purpose. Most of us are better off with another model.

I also find the comparisons between mirrorless and dslrs pretty useless as well. I could never use a mirrorless to shoot what I do with a dslr.

Moving along here...
 
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East Wind Photography said:
The 5Ds is really a niche camera for a special purpose. Most of us are better off with another model.
I hear this all the time and it is just rubbish. The only issue you have with the 5DS/5DSR, compared to a 5DIII, or any other DSLR, is file size. Everything else is same same or better. Currently I only use my 1DX for high fps and low light. Everything else is now shot with the 5DSR, because it is That good and That versatile.

And for those who say they have never pushed more than 2 stops, I simply don't believe you, unless you live in a flat light environment all the time. When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops. How many have done that, plus some additional adjustments? I did not beleive I had ever gone as far as 3 stops, until I realized how much push shadow lifiting represent, I realize I have passed 4 stops numerous times. Not for the entire frame, but for areas. And for the record, I do read histograms and I do pay attention to exposure, so save the condesending "they don't know what thery're doing.." statements, because it might be that you get them in return.
 
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I must honestly say I have never pushed shadows at +100 other than to see what happens. I expose so far to the right it's no way other than to go left, lol. I'm not at all saying there will never be a situation you'll need it, I would'nt complain if my camera had 15 stops of DR either. And it might not be needed for what I shoot. But when I lift shadows it looks very weird, like some bad HDR or something. My camera is set to +7/8 as a default always. And even then I frequently overexpose on the go. Hardly ever have trouble pulling down to where it looks good. If you overexpose with the Exposure scale in Lr, you can go farther right when shooting.
 
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The proof of the pudding ...

The exposure for this one was set to get the buildings to the left and the sky properly exposed. The histogram for the raw image is packed from left to right. For those of you who never lift more than 2 stops and never lift shadows to +100. Tell me what I have done here.
 

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Eldar said:
The proof of the pudding ...

The exposure for this one was set to get the buildings to the left and the sky properly exposed. The histogram for the raw image is packed from left to right. For those of you who never lift more than 2 stops and never lift shadows to +100. Tell me what I have done here.

Well I'm one of those that can say I never lift shadows more that two stops, unless I was actually including the light source in the exposure and then I would bracket.

With your picture it is difficult to say what you've done without seeing the original exposure, but I presume the foreground was in heavy shadow and you have the sun shining on the background. However, you are not including the light source in your picture and so I don't see a problem under normal conditions. To have to push exposure and lift shadows you must have exposed to under exposure the pure white reflecting the sun, probably to hold data here, but is that correct ? Should you hold data in speculative, sun reflecting pure white ? So I would imagine that you have severely underexposed, resulting in (unneccessarily) holding the brightest white, pushing the whole exposure and then pushing shadows as well. This isn't how I would have exposed for this scene.

Also there is a big difference between what looks acceptable in flatness on an illuminated screen and an incident light lit print. I would imagine that your picture might look a little flat in print compared with one that has more contrast between light and dark.
 
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This was shot handheld in a very harsh mid-day Mediterranean sun. I was a walkaround tourist, without a tripod. I have attached the straight from raw to jpeg, with default LR settings. As you can see, the shadows are quite dark, both in the foreground an on the buildings to the right. From what I could judge at the time, based on the histogram and the on-camera display, this was properly exposed.

I am currently on travel, so I just made this as an example on my laptop here in the lounge, so judge the quality with that in mind.
 

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What is Lr-default? Is that the default from Adobe? Or is it all things reset to absoulte zero? I remember they added a tone curve, sharpening, NR and used the Adobe colorprofile as well baking my raw-files to pieces.

I pulled everything to zero and sat that as a new default, and everything improved big time!

What I would have done with that shot Eldar is expose much more to the right, perhaps using the "highlight warning" and make sure it blew out quite a bit of the sky, since that is easy to pull back in post. I try to not expose for the skies when I once in a blue moon shoot any landscape.
 
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Eldar said:
This was shot handheld in a very harsh mid-day Mediterranean sun. I was a walkaround tourist, without a tripod. I have attached the straight from raw to jpeg, with default LR settings. As you can see, the shadows are quite dark, both in the foreground an on the buildings to the right. From what I could judge at the time, based on the histogram and the on-camera display, this was properly exposed.

I am currently on travel, so I just made this as an example on my laptop here in the lounge, so judge the quality with that in mind.

On the face of it I inclined to agree on the exposure, but I just don't see that scene as anything other than a 1 stop pull, one stop push candidate.
 
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Eldar said:
East Wind Photography said:
The 5Ds is really a niche camera for a special purpose. Most of us are better off with another model.
I hear this all the time and it is just rubbish. The only issue you have with the 5DS/5DSR, compared to a 5DIII, or any other DSLR, is file size. Everything else is same same or better. Currently I only use my 1DX for high fps and low light. Everything else is now shot with the 5DSR, because it is That good and That versatile.

And for those who say they have never pushed more than 2 stops, I simply don't believe you, unless you live in a flat light environment all the time. When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops. How many have done that, plus some additional adjustments? I did not beleive I had ever gone as far as 3 stops, until I realized how much push shadow lifiting represent, I realize I have passed 4 stops numerous times. Not for the entire frame, but for areas. And for the record, I do read histograms and I do pay attention to exposure, so save the condesending "they don't know what thery're doing.." statements, because it might be that you get them in return.

Wow. I would not call the 5dsr versatile by any means. Low frame rate and limited in ISO. This has no real use in my bag. The removal of antialiasing has some merits and this is a good pilot model. Though not good for sports, not good for wildlife unless you are shooting birds on a stick. Perhaps it's most useful purpose is for landscapes on a tripod. Versatility is more than just what you can do with it in Lightroom.

I am more interested in where they take this on the 2nd and 3rd generation.
 
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Eldar said:
When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops.

Would anyone know if that shadow lift (+100) = stops (2-2.5) is the same in DxO Optics Pro Selective tones?

and would you have to include the Blacks Selective tone with shadow to equate to an actual stop of exposure?

Thanks
 
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East Wind Photography said:
Eldar said:
East Wind Photography said:
The 5Ds is really a niche camera for a special purpose. Most of us are better off with another model.
I hear this all the time and it is just rubbish. The only issue you have with the 5DS/5DSR, compared to a 5DIII, or any other DSLR, is file size. Everything else is same same or better. Currently I only use my 1DX for high fps and low light. Everything else is now shot with the 5DSR, because it is That good and That versatile.

And for those who say they have never pushed more than 2 stops, I simply don't believe you, unless you live in a flat light environment all the time. When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops. How many have done that, plus some additional adjustments? I did not beleive I had ever gone as far as 3 stops, until I realized how much push shadow lifiting represent, I realize I have passed 4 stops numerous times. Not for the entire frame, but for areas. And for the record, I do read histograms and I do pay attention to exposure, so save the condesending "they don't know what thery're doing.." statements, because it might be that you get them in return.

Wow. I would not call the 5dsr versatile by any means. Low frame rate and limited in ISO. This has no real use in my bag. The removal of antialiasing has some merits and this is a good pilot model. Though not good for sports, not good for wildlife unless you are shooting birds on a stick. Perhaps it's most useful purpose is for landscapes on a tripod. Versatility is more than just what you can do with it in Lightroom.

I am more interested in where they take this on the 2nd and 3rd generation.

TBH i agree with what Eldar says. I mean it is almost identical to the 5DMKIII in every way in terms of spec, 1 less FPS and from what I've seen the noise comparison is almost indistinguishable up to 3200 in real world examples. The 5DMKIII has superior ISO past 3200 but has half the resolution so thats obvious. I shoot pretty much everything from commercial, editorial, landscape, motorsport, wildlife and weddings. When shooting I try to limit to 4000 and last resort 6400 and still get great results. So 3200 isn't far off my limit for quality on the 5DMKIII.

The only negatives I can see from the 5DS is that you have to be very careful to ensure you don't introduce blur by shooting at a higher shutter speed, the file size and the buffer is smaller (understandably). Other than that its like a supercharged 5DMKIII.

I like my 5DMKIII and is more than enough for me in terms of print, I get very nice A1 prints which is exactly what i need. But if i were in the market now for a 5DMKIII I think I would head in the 5DS direction. I really wanted to dislike the 5DS because of the file size and unnecessary resolution but in this case more is more and the 5DS has it.

Im going to wait for the 5DIV because I want a higher frame rate without going back to crop and not buying a 1DX. Pretty exciting in the canon camp for me, I know everyone is fed up but Canon have plateaued and anything they can do more is great. I don't want a mirrorless camera, although playing with some A7RII images its incredible how far you can push them, but makes me feel its cheating more for the photographer who doesn't pay enough attention and can make a good exposure from poor shooting. Makes the technical photographers skills less important.

You hear all these complaints from these web dwellers that the DR is poor the files are rubbish etc. But I am a real photographer I shoot for publication and make my living from my equipment. Ive traveled half way round the world in really pressing environments like the Amazon, sahara, atakama, arctic etc with my 5DMKIII and love it and its form factor, theres not a huge amount more than incremental upgrades that can make it much more perfect. Yes it would be nice to have a little more latitude but there aren't many times that I have hit the limit of the technology that post can't deliver the right results.

I can only think of one time recently where I have hit the barrier.

Ive been working on a set of images for a british company called United Utilities, I was shooting some long exposures of Thirlmere reservoir. It can be quite difficult to shoot the lakes as quite a lot of them run north to south and are deep V and U shaped valleys. So to get a sunrise or sunset you have to get up really high to get an overview to be able to see the sun. If you don't and you sit at the waterside waiting for the light the sun won't ever rise over the mountains and light the valley, you will never get to see it going down either, very hard in that golden hour. Problem with reservoirs is that they are designed to filter water so the water doesn't need as much treatment so they create dense forrest and encourage moss growth. So a lot of the time footpaths don't venture too far and if you do make the effort to hike through the forrest and undergrowth you disturb the hard work that has been achieved so it is an ethical decision, in the is case as I was working for the company who do all this work it was unethical to do so.

The answer is to wait until the sun has set and the valley is in even light and then catch the end of the sunset with the colours produced by the sunset. Add a long exposure and you get the silky movement of the sky and water.

This was shot as ISO 100 for 3 1/2 minutes using a 10 stop ND. If the exposure was any more than 3 1/2 minutes the highlights would blow and be unrecoverable. So at this length of time you get a lot of hot spots and pushing the sensor quite far. Out of the camera the image looked good but the shadows were underexposed. In lightroom I brought the exposure up to +1.65 +88 on the shadows and -100 highlight. This amazingly didn't give me a banding but I usually find I struggle with colour noise so in this case my noise reduction was set on 35 as the noise wasn't too bad for this type of increased exposure but my colour reduction is set to 45, detail at 50 and smoothness at 100. I find smoothness quite a misguiding slider as it doesn't smooth detail but red green and blue colour noise, brought it into photoshop and added 100 in the smart sharpen tab made a mask and selectively sharpened.

It then looked brilliant. I made an A1 print looks incredible and the image is below.

Thirlmere Reservoir , Allerdale, Lake District, Cumbria by Tom Scott, on Flickr

This is IMO pushing quite far and its very very rare I shoot and push the camera this far and the image still looks great, clients were thrilled and its being made into a wall print for their headquarters. Even tho the current Canon sensors aren't quite as good as the Nikon equivalent for that sort of shot similar post would have been needed and a HDR not useful because of moving elements like the sky and water so this is the only option.
 
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zim said:
Eldar said:
When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops.

Would anyone know if that shadow lift (+100) = stops (2-2.5) is the same in DxO Optics Pro Selective tones?

and would you have to include the Blacks Selective tone with shadow to equate to an actual stop of exposure?

Thanks

You could try an experiment: process the same image with shadows in two different ways: once by +100 in shadows and secondly by +2 in overall exposure and then compare.

Just did it: +100 is closer to +4 stops.+50 is close to +2 stops
 
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Eldar said:
When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops.

Doesn't work quite like that, how much it pushes depends on how deep the shadows are to begin with. If they are relatively bright in the first place it does almost nothing. So you can't really compare it to a global push of the image.
 
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msm said:
Eldar said:
When you lift shadow +100 in LR, you have lifted about 2-2.5 stops.

Doesn't work quite like that, how much it pushes depends on how deep the shadows are to begin with. If they are relatively bright in the first place it does almost nothing. So you can't really compare it to a global push of the image.

Yes, you got it. The way I understand the numbers on the shadow and highlight sliders are that they are subjective and vary photo to photo, dependent on complicated matters such as msm described.
 
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