Razor2012 said:RLPhoto said:
Depending on how close they are and what lens they are using.
+1. try F8 or F9 if at least 50mm. Long lens, of course, it will still be different.
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+1. try F8 or F9 if at least 50mm. Long lens, of course, it will still be different.
Razor2012 said:There's no rule that says a person can't have the best or whatever they can afford, but we always don't like to hear the advice so nothing is asked.
Part of the problem is that many people assume that best == most expensive, rather than best == ideal solution that meets a need.
For example, for someone wanting a P&S experience but with better IQ, something more like a Nikon1 or u4/3 camera probably would probably be better than a 1DX with full set of f2.8 zooms...
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Since you're using a 5D Mark III John, you may want to try setting the AF to 61-Point Automatic Selection AF rather than Single-point or AF Point Expansion settings. Of course, at 61-Point Automatic Selection, the camera will still focus on the nearest subject. So if you're taking a photo of several subjects, you will want to set your aperture higher such as f/4, f/5.6 or higher. Obviously the higher the aperture setting, the more depth of field will be achieved and the longer the shutter speed will be. Also, as some have stated, this will also largely depends on the distance of the camera to subject, as well as the relation of each subject to each other. I suggest if you're taking a photo of two or more persons is to have them stand closer together with their faces as close to one plane as possible. If it's a group shot with multiple planes of people, ie. people standing front and back, I'd recommend shooting with a tripod and timer/remote. Depending on whether you're shooting in Av (aperture value) or Tv (Time value) or M (Manual) you will want to make sure the shutter speed is high enough to account for handholding shakes. If shooting with a tripod, you can set the aperture much higher, to f/8/f/11+ but you will need to have your subject hold still for the corresponding shutter speed value which will likely be longer depending on lighting. Any movement during the exposure will be out of focus. The more light available, whether existing or artificial, ie. flash, strobes, etc., will allow for the higher aperture value and faster shutter speed.
Hope this helps.
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MarkII said:Razor2012 said:There's no rule that says a person can't have the best or whatever they can afford, but we always don't like to hear the advice so nothing is asked.
Part of the problem is that many people assume that best == most expensive, rather than best == ideal solution that meets a need.
For example, for someone wanting a P&S experience but with better IQ, something more like a Nikon1 or u4/3 camera probably would probably be better than a 1DX with full set of f2.8 zooms...
That, but sometimes, you had to look in your future e.g., if you're going into serious photography. As the saying goes, the poor man always pays twice. Plan accordingly so as to avoid unnecessary acquisition.
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spinworkxroy said:
It isn't that big a deal...the 5D3 was my first DSLR too...and I'm having a blast with it.
I did my research, was about to get the 5D2....saw the 3 was coming out so gave me a few more months to save and research more.
But if he's like me....when jumping into something, you research it till you can quote every spec by heart...and then, try to buy the absolute best you can afford to start with...I do that with most any 'toy' I want to get.
I'm constantly amazed by this attitude about noobs buying nice equipment....why not buy the best that you can afford when getting something...?
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cayenne said:
It's great if you've got a steady cash flow coming, as long as a beginner is not confused by the camera's options (but I doubt that even if Canon marketing uses this as a reason to cut features - like Apple computer mice with just one button).
The problem esp. with camera bodies is that when you max out your budget for some time to come with a medium or high-end body, a beginner is likely (= probability) not using the full capability. I for one am happy not to have bought the 7d two years ago, looking back at my shots I wouldn't have really profited from the added features, and now I could spend the €700 saved back then on a (better) ff body - it's just the price difference between a 5d3 and 6d.
Last not least, "the best" isn't necessary the most expensive, esp. when considering size for transport and weight - a beginner might have much less fun when dragging around a 5d3+70-200/2.8 than with a 6d and lighter lens. Ymmv of course.
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cayenne said:
Absolutely nothing wrong with getting the best you can afford.
But....
I can afford a $200 basketball shoe, but its not going to make me a better shooter. I don't think anybody would disagree with that. It takes a lot of skill which is developed by many many hours of practice. If I blame the shoes for not making my shots, it sort of implies that I expected by virtue of buying them that my shots should start falling at a higher rate - essentially I bought my way out of practicing.
I get what you're saying, but take into consideration the type of question the OP asked. This is clearly someone who knew very little to nothing about how an AF system works or what DoF is (perhaps a sign of lack of research/practice done on/with photography or using a DSLR), and yet is blaming the camera. For many enthusiasts that's not easy to take with a grain of salt. We spend a ton of time trying to get better at this and to try and create a great image, which shows a respect for the craft/art, so they are not really going to take kindly to perceived disrespect.
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Hmm...funny you should mention it, my 70-200mm f/2.8 just came in weekend before last, and so far, from the little time I've had to play with it...I like it so far!!!Marsu42 said:
Magic from that thing so far, and that was just a few snaps of my dog, and the xmas decorations up in the house....
cayenne
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How much you can or want to spend isn't really the problem - it is the assumption that spending more is automatically better. What is best. Instagram? Sony RX1? D800? Leica M? Digital MF? Unless all you care about is the fashion statement, the answer depends on what and how you want to shoot - it is not a one dimensional continuum.cayenne said:
It is a shame that traditional bricks-and-mortar camera stores are dying out. Genuinely helpful and knowledgeable staff would might mean less posts like the one that started this thread, since not everyone spends hours reading up every possible piece of information before buying a camera
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Gees. Chill guys.
The original poster simply wanted to learn how to focus better. There's no reason to bash or criticize. If you have nothing to contribute or simply don't care, then don't comment. Who doesn't want better or more expensive equipment? I, myself, wish I could afford a Hasselblad H4D-60 or even a Leica M9. But I don't but I am not gonna bash someone else less skilled or judge whether that person deserve it or not. Sure it's your right to say, comment whatever you want. But remember, we all started at the bottom. As someone once said "Ask a stupid question rather than make a stupid mistake."
The original poster simply wanted to learn how to focus better. There's no reason to bash or criticize. If you have nothing to contribute or simply don't care, then don't comment. Who doesn't want better or more expensive equipment? I, myself, wish I could afford a Hasselblad H4D-60 or even a Leica M9. But I don't but I am not gonna bash someone else less skilled or judge whether that person deserve it or not. Sure it's your right to say, comment whatever you want. But remember, we all started at the bottom. As someone once said "Ask a stupid question rather than make a stupid mistake."
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Here is my perspective.
My first DSLR is also a 5D Mark III with 24-105 f/4 L and Speedlite 600ex-rt. I can afford to buy this system, and am learning very quickly from my mistakes and from when I do get it right, which is happening more often now, but I still have much to learn.
If I had bought a 650D, then I would make the same mistakes as I have with the 5D Mark III, but in the shots I do get right, I would have more noise, less depth of field and with slightly softer images (assuming I would not have bought an L lens to keep within a tighter budget).
I believe I get more keepers with my 5D Mark III as it one of the most well balanced DSLR's around with very few faults.
No it will not make you a better photographer, but you will likely get better results when you get it right, have more keepers and quite simply enjoy using it.
I would not discourage any newbie from buying it, should they have the budget to do so.
My first DSLR is also a 5D Mark III with 24-105 f/4 L and Speedlite 600ex-rt. I can afford to buy this system, and am learning very quickly from my mistakes and from when I do get it right, which is happening more often now, but I still have much to learn.
If I had bought a 650D, then I would make the same mistakes as I have with the 5D Mark III, but in the shots I do get right, I would have more noise, less depth of field and with slightly softer images (assuming I would not have bought an L lens to keep within a tighter budget).
I believe I get more keepers with my 5D Mark III as it one of the most well balanced DSLR's around with very few faults.
No it will not make you a better photographer, but you will likely get better results when you get it right, have more keepers and quite simply enjoy using it.
I would not discourage any newbie from buying it, should they have the budget to do so.
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cayenne said:
I'm not disputing it's a great lens and I'd swap it with my 70-300L anytime - for free :-> - but that's what I meant when writing ymmv: When shooting your dog from your couch or going a few steps outside the size & weight don't matter, and if you're a strong person or a trained photog that doesn't travel a lot they might not matter at all ...
... but when exploring outdoors I can still dangle 70-300L+60d from my wrist for a long time without problems because of less torque, but with a flash like the 600rt mounted that's the absolute max I'd still consider "fun" (me currently) and not "work".
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This is a friendly forum, not a place to criticize those who come for help.
The jerks who ridiculed the poster really need to cancel their accounts as well. Maybe I'll do it for them
The jerks who ridiculed the poster really need to cancel their accounts as well. Maybe I'll do it for them
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