5D3 Spot Focus Question, and Advice on Accessories

[Sharper100]

Spot Focus & Re-Compose:
I am a bit confused on the "spot focus and re-compose" function, as to how it works on the 5D3. I do the usual: Spot focus on a subject and Press Shutter half-way to lock focus, and then re-compose the frame before taking my shot. However, when I view the shot on LCD afterwards, with the AF point display active, I find that it does NOT show the AF point on the initial subject on which I had locked the focus on (even though that subject does appear to be in focus also!). Did the focus point really shift to the spot right before I took the shot, or does the LCD display show it at the wrong spot? Has anybody else tried this also?

Screen Protectors:
What is your personal experience and opinion on using "Optical Glass Screen Protectors" for the rear and top LCD's on the 5D3? There are several products in the market claiming to be wear-resistant, abrasion-resistant, scratch-resistant, multi-coated with 95%+ light transmitting rate. Do you use them, or do you prefer keeping the LCD's clear from protectors?

Neck Strap:
To replace the flashy OEM neck strap that comes with the 5D3, with a Black and more plain and simple, yet durable and strong replacement neck strap, which product(s) would you recommend?

Camera Bag:
As a Small Hoster-Type camera bag, that would fit the 5D3 with the 24-105 kit lens attached, the best product I could find, so far, is the "Tamrac 5625 Pro Digital Zoom 5" bag. For those who use that bag for this camera, what is your experience with it? Any other similar feature bags (Small and Holster-Type) you can recommend?

CPL Filter:
Trying to decide between the 77mm CPL filter from "B+W KSM F-Pro MRC" and "Hoya Pro1 DMC". Obviously, B+W is more expensive. My question is for the 24-105 L lens, would I notice the difference between those two CPL's?

I appreciate all feedbacks.

 

[Loswr]

Focus-Recompose - it's showing you the focus point you used to lock focus, wherever that point ends up in the final composition. The camera doesn't know which direction or how far you moved after locking focus. If you lock focus and recompose, you're moving the focus-lock point location away from the subject you focused on, and that's how it shows up in the image. FYI, the technique works ok for 'slow' lenses, but with fast primes shot wide open it results in a backfocused shot, due to the geometry (in fact, it does at narrow apertures, too, but the DoF is deep enough to mask the focus error). Side note - have you considered back-button AF? It's a handy technique that lets you control focus independent of the shutter button.

Screen protector - I don't bother. The outer glass surface is scratch resistant and easily replaced (by the user, with a part from Canon). A screen protector also adds glare, to which the bare screen is pretty resistant.

Neck Strap - skip it. Get a Blackrapid strap that puts the weight on your shoulder, much more comfortable.

Camera bag - a Lowepro Toploader Pro 65 AW would also work. I have one, love it, also have the Pro 75 AW for longer lenses (100-400, 70-200 II, etc). The 65 AW holds the 24-105, 16-35 II, etc., up to the 100L Macro IS. With the Lowepro, you can use their other products with SlipLock attachments to attach to the side of the 65 AW - a Lens Case for a second lens, QuickFlex pouch for a Speedlite flash, etc.

CPL - possibly. The B+W Käsemann line has no color tint (many CPLs do), and is robustly sealed. I have many B+W filters (UV on almost all lenses, Käsemann CPLs in 77mm and 82mm, 3-stop and 10-stop NDs in multiple sizes), all are excellent.

Hope that helps...

 

[Ewinter]

As to the camera bag, I can speak to the think tank holsters being excellent, and are great for if you need to use it with a bigger lens (it expands)

 

[Ben Taylor]

+ 1 on all accounts from Neuro.

I use the Blackrapid RS7 strap and it's one of the better investments I've made for walking around.

 

[Sharper100]

Focus-Recompose - it's showing you the focus point you used to lock focus, wherever that point ends up in the final composition. The camera doesn't know which direction or how far you moved after locking focus. If you lock focus and recompose, you're moving the focus-lock point location away from the subject you focused on, and that's how it shows up in the image. FYI, the technique works ok for 'slow' lenses, but with fast primes shot wide open it results in a backfocused shot, due to the geometry (in fact, it does at narrow apertures, too, but the DoF is deep enough to mask the focus error). Side note - have you considered back-button AF? It's a handy technique that lets you control focus independent of the shutter button.

Screen protector - I don't bother. The outer glass surface is scratch resistant and easily replaced (by the user, with a part from Canon). A screen protector also adds glare, to which the bare screen is pretty resistant.

Neck Strap - skip it. Get a Blackrapid strap that puts the weight on your shoulder, much more comfortable.

Camera bag - a Lowepro Toploader Pro 65 AW would also work. I have one, love it, also have the Pro 75 AW for longer lenses (100-400, 70-200 II, etc). The 65 AW holds the 24-105, 16-35 II, etc., up to the 100L Macro IS. With the Lowepro, you can use their other products with SlipLock attachments to attach to the side of the 65 AW - a Lens Case for a second lens, QuickFlex pouch for a Speedlite flash, etc.

CPL - possibly. The B+W Käsemann line has no color tint (many CPLs do), and is robustly sealed. I have many B+W filters (UV on almost all lenses, Käsemann CPLs in 77mm and 82mm, 3-stop and 10-stop NDs in multiple sizes), all are excellent.

Hope that helps...

Neuro,

Thank you for your quick feedback on all items. I will check into those accessories.

So, on the focus-recompose operation, my procedure is correct, meaning that the AF point is locked on initial subject, even though the LCD can only show where the point ended up in the final composition as I moved the camera (not the true focus point). I hope I understand that correctly.

By the way, I do remember your past comment on this forum (on another subject) regarding the problems with the focus-recompose method for fast prime lenses and close subjects.

Thanks again.

 

[Ben Taylor]

Neuro,

Thank you for your quick feedback on all items. I will check into those accessories.

So, on the focus-recompose operation, my procedure is correct, meaning that the AF point is locked on initial subject, even though the LCD can only show where the point ended up in the final composition as I moved the camera (not the true focus point). I hope I understand that correctly.

Correct!

 

[Sharper100]

As to the camera bag, I can speak to the think tank holsters being excellent, and are great for if you need to use it with a bigger lens (it expands)

I just checked it out on their web site. Looks great, especially the expansion feature. I will consider that also. Thanks.

 

[Sharper100]

+ 1 on all accounts from Neuro.

I use the Blackrapid RS7 strap and it's one of the better investments I've made for walking around.

That does seem comfortable for walking around. However, the way it attaches to the tripod mount, and its thick shoulder pad fabric, I may have problems fitting it attached to the 5D3 inside a relatively compact holster-style camera bag, such as a Tamrac 5625, LowePro AW70, or a Think Tank 20 V2.0.

Thanks

 

[RC]

+2 on Neuro's remarks

Some additional comments:

Screen Protectors:
I went down this road when I first got my 7D. After using LV for some landscape and moon shots, I peeled it off to restore true LCD view for more precise manual focusing. Later I learned it's not a big deal to replace it if you have to.

Neck Strap:
Occasion specific - sometimes I want a strap and other times I don't. When I need a strap I use a BR RS-7. If I'm using my LowePro Top Loader bag, or doing portraits, I don't use a strap at all. I also have a grip strap.

It took me a long time and lots of research to overcome the fear of a failing BR strap but I finally got one and I'm very satisfied. There are lots of safety mods you can make if you are nervous like I was. I haven't made one yet, but probably will in time.

Camera Bag:
Don't get a one-size-fits-all bag. Buy a bag for your shooting situation. For example, I have a LowePro Top Loader 70AW with a LowePro 11x14cm lens bag attached. I used this when I only carry a body, 24-105 and 16-35. I use a LowePro Flipside 300 when I want to carry my 24-105, 16-35 plus my 100L or 70-200. When I want to carry all my gear, I have a Tenba Shootout back pack. I also 2 additional Tenba shoulder bags for other uses. LowePro's website has a very handy bag finder tool.

CPL Filter:
Buy a CPL for your largest lens' filter size then buy step-up rings to mount on smaller lens. I need to buy an 82mm slim CPL to fit my 16-35...ouch, very pricey.

 

[robbymack]

+1 for black rapid straps. Bought one a month ago and it has changed my life. I no longer wear the uncomfortable neck strap or carry around an annoying camera bag. Just camera, strap, plus my lens of choice for the day and maybe a 50mm stuffed in a jacket pocket.

As for your focus recompose issue, all that does is show you which focus point you used, not what was actually in focus at the time you took the shot. Get comfortable moving around the focus point in frame while in the act of shooting it will result in more keepers especially with a mark iii

 

[Loswr]

+ 1 on all accounts from Neuro.

I use the Blackrapid RS7 strap and it's one of the better investments I've made for walking around.

That does seem comfortable for walking around. However, the way it attaches to the tripod mount, and its thick shoulder pad fabric, I may have problems fitting it attached to the 5D3 inside a relatively compact holster-style camera bag, such as a Tamrac 5625, LowePro AW70, or a Think Tank 20 V2.0.

Can't speak for the others, but with the Lowepro Toploader Pro series, it's not an issue. I have a quick-release setup with my BR strap - the lug is attached to a Kirk 1" clamp which is then attached to the camera plate that remains on the 1D X or gripped 7D, and that setup fits in the Toploader Pro bags.

Don't get a one-size-fits-all bag. Buy a bag for your shooting situation.

+1 on this. I have more camera bags than my wife has purses. :-X The reason is that I like a bag that fits what I want to take. The modularity of the Lowepro system is great - toploaders and a set of lens cases, I can take a 2-3 lens kit. Flipside 300 for a white zoom plus 2-3 lenses and a flash. Flipside 400 AW for 5-6 lenses including a white zoom. Etc.

It took me a long time and lots of research to overcome the fear of a failing BR strap but I finally got one and I'm very satisfied. There are lots of safety mods you can make if you are nervous like I was. I haven't made one yet, but probably will in time.

If it helps your level of trust, in addition to my RS-4, I picked up one of the left-handed RS sport straps, where the camera hangs on the left side of the body. I use that to carry a 600/4L IS II with the 1D X mounted - $20K in gear hanging from that strap.

 

[nonac]

I really like the Lowepro toploaders. Get the Lowepro belt and build the system you need. You can add to it or take away from it depending on the shooting situation you are planning to do.

 

[sach100]

Screen Protectors:

http://www.amazon.com/GGS-Screen-Protector-Glass-Camera/dp/B008I0RC00/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1352090061&sr=8-2&keywords=ggs+canon+5d+mark+iii

I've been using this for couple of weeks now. Happy with it so far. If you read the comments in the link there is a complaint with respect to using wide angle lens in live view. I haven't had the opportunity to test it myself though.

 

[fugu82]

+ eleventy on the many replies. Moving to back-button focus did more for my photography than any other change I've done. One additional suggestion: consider the Crumpler Industry Disgrace neck strap. It is awesome.