5DM3 ISO 1600/3200 bad technique, or broken camera?
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When I take photos of my sons hockey games I overexpose so that the face is not under exposed. depending on the rink the actual amount of over exposure will vary.
Not directly related but my 5D3 is so much better for this type of this environment then my 7D. I have taken photos at 10,000 ISO and they are better then my 7D at 1,600.
Not directly related but my 5D3 is so much better for this type of this environment then my 7D. I have taken photos at 10,000 ISO and they are better then my 7D at 1,600.
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Metering for the ice. Spot meter on the subject. Since the lighting looks pretty even, you could have her stand still where she's going to do the trick so that you can get a spot meter on her face. Then make the manual settings to get the proper exposure. Then let her do the fancy stuff and you should be exposing correctly.
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in the first shot it says you were set to F1.6. it is extremely difficult to hold focus at F1.6...the slightest movement from you or your subject and the sliver of DOF may move off your subject. simply breathing can cause you to fall out of the DOF at 1.6. same thing for 2.8 on the 70-200 (although you have a better chance of staying within the DOF at the shorter focal length than extended to 200mm). to attempt to get tack sharp results at a high ISO with the rate of motion involved with ice skating is pretty lofty expectations.
i cant see that big of a noise issue given how the files are posted on this site. both images are certainly usable given what they are going to be used for (i assume they were for your daughter).
these latest generation cameras offer tremendous capability to the point that it was unthinkable a mere 5 years ago. however, performance expectations are through the roof (and unrealistic imo) for what remains extremely challenging shooting situations. a poorly lit, mostly white skating rink where you are trying to freeze a high rate of motion? that is a nightmare situation and will remain so for some time to come.
understand the physical limits of your shooting situations and temper your expectations just a bit.
i cant see that big of a noise issue given how the files are posted on this site. both images are certainly usable given what they are going to be used for (i assume they were for your daughter).
these latest generation cameras offer tremendous capability to the point that it was unthinkable a mere 5 years ago. however, performance expectations are through the roof (and unrealistic imo) for what remains extremely challenging shooting situations. a poorly lit, mostly white skating rink where you are trying to freeze a high rate of motion? that is a nightmare situation and will remain so for some time to come.
understand the physical limits of your shooting situations and temper your expectations just a bit.
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Yes you could work with ambient and crank up the exposure another stop or two.
Or - you could do the strobist thing. Keep background exposure the same, and place a flash off-camera to the side. You could set it on the boards. Shoot direct or through an umbrella. Press the shutter when your daughter faces in the same direction as the flash. Play with flash power and see what happens. Good luck!
Or - you could do the strobist thing. Keep background exposure the same, and place a flash off-camera to the side. You could set it on the boards. Shoot direct or through an umbrella. Press the shutter when your daughter faces in the same direction as the flash. Play with flash power and see what happens. Good luck!
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The way I've metered exposure at rinks is to take a shot filled mostly with the white ice. I then check the histogram and adjust so the large spike is far to the right without clipping. Seems to work well for me.
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Never heard anyone say micro focus adjust is junk. Why would it be. If a lens is properly adjusted, you can only benefit. It's not like it slows the focus system down or degrades any other functions. With zooms specifically you obviously need to make sure you have it adjusted for the focal length you will most likely be using.
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- Are you shooting through plexiglass? If so, that would contribute to the problem.
- It's underexposed -the ice is playing a trick on metering....I've made this mistake myself. As others have said, try to overexpose by a stop.
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photokid said:
You expect people to provide instant help after 6 hours after your post and get sarcastic if it isn't delivered? Sounds like you expect too much, like pressing a button on you camera and taking instant great pictures... you may have to adjust your expectations on both fields, if I may say so.
photokid said:
Um, seriously, maybe you should have shot with a crop camera like a 60d for some time to appreciate the iq and af of the pictures you are able to take even in *problematic* lighting conditions with the 5d3 and your stellar lenses most people can only dream about. This is really no gloating, just an observation
As for you technique, it's indeed underexposed, you should have overexposed just so much that you are just able to recover the highlights in raw (I use Lightroom for this) so you can use the dynamic range to the max = less noise. That being said, what you are seeing at higher iso certainly is not "terrible noise". Maybe you expected to just push the shutter and get the sports pictures you see in the media which were taken in *optimal* conditions?
For a moving object, your shutter speed is not not high enough for 100% crop sharpness (I'm frequently shooting animals) and your keeper rate will drop - imho the hair shows motion blur. Did the sharpness improve @iso6400?
Last not least, as you said, raising fec doesn't help if your flash is not strong enough. Get a 600rt
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Thanks again
Re sarcasm, wasn't really serious, should have put smiley.
Re metering, I was in manual.
Re plexiglass, sadly no, I wish I could blame that, but no glass of any sort
Re 60D, this was my first time shooting ice skating, my 5D3 is new but it's not my first camera. Started with Fuji bridge camera, then 30D then 5D2 then 5D3. My first good lenses where Sigma. And the reason for my post was exactly as you mentioned, we're the images typical and I was expecting too much, or did I have a faulty camera.
You guys have convinced me camera is fine, and it's all down to user error/difficult scene.
Re 600rt, can't afford it, but is its only 2m better than 580 can it be that much brighter ?
Re sarcasm, wasn't really serious, should have put smiley.
Re metering, I was in manual.
Re plexiglass, sadly no, I wish I could blame that, but no glass of any sort
Re 60D, this was my first time shooting ice skating, my 5D3 is new but it's not my first camera. Started with Fuji bridge camera, then 30D then 5D2 then 5D3. My first good lenses where Sigma. And the reason for my post was exactly as you mentioned, we're the images typical and I was expecting too much, or did I have a faulty camera.
You guys have convinced me camera is fine, and it's all down to user error/difficult scene.
Re 600rt, can't afford it, but is its only 2m better than 580 can it be that much brighter ?
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Photo kid,
I had the same impression initially using Aperture. Is this your only noise reduction system?
DPP and LR 4.1 RC2 gave a lot better noise control with chroma. Try a different RAW converter. I changed over to LR because of that just a week ago. LR chroma + Dfine 2.0 clean up almost everything up to ISO 10000...
Just an idea. I loved Aperture until I started shooting high ISO.
Cheers
I had the same impression initially using Aperture. Is this your only noise reduction system?
DPP and LR 4.1 RC2 gave a lot better noise control with chroma. Try a different RAW converter. I changed over to LR because of that just a week ago. LR chroma + Dfine 2.0 clean up almost everything up to ISO 10000...
Just an idea. I loved Aperture until I started shooting high ISO.
Cheers
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michi said:
I've never had a focus issue with my lenses other than with ones that are duff from the factory.
I never use micro adjust and shoot at F/2.8 or faster nearly all the time.
I have most L series lenses from the 16mm-200mm range, primes and zooms yet I've never felt the need to tune my focus. I have used the 1D4, 1Ds3, 5D2 and 5D3 on these lenses and never needed to adjust the lens focus.
Either I'm exceptionally lucky with my equipment, have a different version of what 'in focus' means or it's a system to correct lenses that didn't quite hit the quality control mark at Canon HQ. I will suggest it's more to stop Canon receiving returns than to help the consumer out.
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The exposure is off but the camera won't think so with the bright lights in the shot. It sees them and naturally thinks its the white point and under expose from there. The only caveat is shooting in spot, exposure comp, or ext metering. Also with focus, that shallow is very difficult to follow and track, ask and 5d2 shooter at a wedding. That fstop range is very unwieldy and settings and practice will go a long way. MA is real. Ive had L lenses be different MA values for different bodies. It is there to help, not hurt.
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te4o said:
Thanks, similar results with LR4 and DPP, that's why I thought it may be camera. The screenshots where shown with aperture defaults, they have cleaned up better with a little PP. to be honest DPP is limited and clunky, LR4 is compromised re noise, and aperture is compromised too, I'm not sure any RC app is ideal with these raw files yet.
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wockawocka said:
Well, I don't own a Canon store like you do, but on my 7D, many of my lenses improved with MFA. On my 5DII on the other hand, I haven't felt the need to use it yet. So maybe it's the 7D body, although some of the lenses with it are +, some are -, so I don't know if it really is the camera. Either way, I'm happy to have tweaked all my lenses to their maximum potential.
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