Boy I appreciate all these comments but will have to review when I'm not so tired. Thanks all. Yes, interesting that focus distance is factored in!
Jack
Jack
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600 EX-RT Evaluative vs Average E-TTL
- Thread starter pwp
- Start date
In my experience, the slower the shutter speed, the more exposed the background will be as the flash exposes the subject regardless of the shutter speed.
If you want a dark background, use a fast shutter speed (as fast as you camera can sync).
I use bounce flash (normally, unless you're outside at night) just set my camera to manual, usually f5.6 and adjust shutter speed to get the background in or out.
I use manual flash usually at +1, but I will adjust as necessary.
ISO starts at 400, but usually around 800 to 1000 depending on how high the ceiling is and what colour it is.
For me, it's easier this way than trying to get the ETTL to work the way I like.
If you want a dark background, use a fast shutter speed (as fast as you camera can sync).
I use bounce flash (normally, unless you're outside at night) just set my camera to manual, usually f5.6 and adjust shutter speed to get the background in or out.
I use manual flash usually at +1, but I will adjust as necessary.
ISO starts at 400, but usually around 800 to 1000 depending on how high the ceiling is and what colour it is.
For me, it's easier this way than trying to get the ETTL to work the way I like.
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Perhaps one of you guys would just swing by and demo for me! 
To confuse the issue I've been trying to use HSsync due to motion of the bird. Is there a book that is really worthwhile (excellent) on the 600 or even more generic but not ancient, that you'd recommend?
I have found all manual (camera and flashes) to be helpful with me just trial and error on the prop (stick) that the model is supposed to pose on but it is far better when the model cooperates (I'm using fill not dominant lighting). No ceiling to bounce from but possible I could set up a reflector.
How does the width setting (shooting tele but set to 20 mm factor into this other than I won't have as much power, keeping in mind that the subject is only say 6-8' away? Since the perching location is not fixed I need to have broader coverage given there is not a flash on camera.
I'm guessing I really should try to read up on flash for studio use relative to placement, etc.
Not trying to detract from the original poster's query.
Jack
To confuse the issue I've been trying to use HSsync due to motion of the bird. Is there a book that is really worthwhile (excellent) on the 600 or even more generic but not ancient, that you'd recommend?
I have found all manual (camera and flashes) to be helpful with me just trial and error on the prop (stick) that the model is supposed to pose on but it is far better when the model cooperates (I'm using fill not dominant lighting). No ceiling to bounce from but possible I could set up a reflector.
How does the width setting (shooting tele but set to 20 mm factor into this other than I won't have as much power, keeping in mind that the subject is only say 6-8' away? Since the perching location is not fixed I need to have broader coverage given there is not a flash on camera.
I'm guessing I really should try to read up on flash for studio use relative to placement, etc.
Not trying to detract from the original poster's query.
Jack
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If you really want to freeze motion of bird, then you have to use low power on flash, because flash duration is shorter at lower power (around 1/1000-1/10000s); at full power it is at sync speed of 1/200s. That means either narrow beam, open f-stop, or hi-ISO. Alternatively, look at higher power studio flashes: AlienBees, Metz, Quantum, etc, or use multiple Canon flashes together.
Trying things out with prop sticks is great. Re different perching locations, use same set-up and put prop stick in various places.
Re books on lighting in general, I like Hunter et al. "Light, Science and Magic" from Focal Press. It is not strobe specific, but an excellent source for lighting in general.
Trying things out with prop sticks is great. Re different perching locations, use same set-up and put prop stick in various places.
Re books on lighting in general, I like Hunter et al. "Light, Science and Magic" from Focal Press. It is not strobe specific, but an excellent source for lighting in general.
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Thanks Zeidora,
I like to get good books for reference but prefer to have a recommended book so that helps a lot. With motion I wasn't specifically referring to fast like hummingbird wings, more like a woodpecker head. So HSsync seems OK.
Jack
I like to get good books for reference but prefer to have a recommended book so that helps a lot. With motion I wasn't specifically referring to fast like hummingbird wings, more like a woodpecker head. So HSsync seems OK.
Jack
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Zeidora said:
I'm not exactly sure about that. I don't consider ISO 1600 to be high, but maybe it is. I think I had some latitude to lower it. Not saying you are wrong. Just not sure about myself I guess.
From what I understand the Canon flashes use multiple short flashes in HHS. I believe I had this 600EX-RT set at full power, but if it was giving multiple flashes for HHS then the flashes would have to be, as you say, lower powered and my full power setting negated.
This isn't a great bird photo, but the settings were: Manual mode, 1/4000 sec., f/5.6, ISO 1600, pattern metering. I need to pay more attention to what the metering functions do on my cameras. Also, I think I used 2 x 600EX-RT (Now that I think about it) and a third as a remote trigger.
To the OP: This bird kept flying between two perch points and calling. I set up at this perch point and used my truck as a hide. I knew he would come back so I knew where to put the flash. Maybe evaluative metering would have been best. The background is about 50 yards away.
Yeah, stupid watermark.
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rlarsen said:
That's terrible. I feel your pain. :'(
Actually, I think you were criticised for the way you presented yourself and your attitude.
You said, "I've been struggling with Canon ttl flash for as long as I can remember. After spending a couple weeks shooting some really big corporate events I just have to say the Canon 580 EX used on my 5D mklll in ttl mode is the worst product I have used in my life. This POS is totally unreliable. I hate it. It takes all the fun out of photography and replaces it with stress. Switching to manual mode and working likes it's 1977 is no answer. How do people cope with this ? Are there speedlights for Canon that actually work in auto mode ?"
Millions of people don't share your bad experience with the flashes. Quite the opposite.
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CanonFanBoy said:
Sorry for having been incomplete. There are two ways of freezing motion with flash:
- Dark environment, fully open shutter at flash sync speed of ~1/200s, and very short flash burst at low power.
- Bright environment, very short exposure time <<1/200s, continuous output flash = HSS.
I haven't used the second version much. Back in the day, I had an OM 280 flash, one of the first ones with continuous light output. The power in that setting is very low, so can only be used as a small filler. Haven't used it with my 580.
Here's a nice write-up from Canon
http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/infobank/flash/flash_synchronisation.do
Essentially, with HSS you get the full power over the normal sync speed, and it gets chopped down progressively as you shorten exposure = make traveling slit of curtains more narrow.
The write-up suggests reduction of GN to 1/2 @ 1/500s, which would entail 1/4 @ 1/1000s, 1/8 @ 1/2000s, 1/16 @ 1/4000s, and 1/32 @ 1/8000s.
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