Responding to thoughts in no specific order to Riker, DSB and David from Sydney.........
Small files I add to posts aren't a fair judge of sharpness but I can tell you I've made prints 16" X 20" from many files and they look great at "normal viewing" distance......
On to other topics......
Yes, Ikelite is lowest cost but please don't judge the current smaller DLM housing by long ago models. They are improved and a decent value to get APS-C and even the Canon R8 underwater.
As David mentioned trying to squeeze a download cord and file transfer gizmo in there is likely not possible.......I haven't found the Canon NB-17L batteries to be that bad whether shooting flash from the Canon TT5 Optical Flash transmitter now pretty much standard on their housings (in the DELUXE packages. Ambient light shooting gets you hundreds of flashes per battery charge.
As to lenses and APS-C versus FULL FRAME sure......Checking details at 100-200-300% zooming in you MIGHT see differences but I contend APS-C and a decent lens can win you a contest, print a big print or book from your adventures and be satisfied
As several mentioned the discontinued Tokina 10-17mm APS-C fisheye was heralded (still is) by many as a tad wider than a rectilinear lens......Until now......
Here'a a head to head comparison against the Canon RF-S 10-18mm lens by a good UW shooter.
By Douglas KlugImages © Douglas Klug For wide angle shooting, an underwater photographer wants a lens that can capture broad reef-scapes, close focus to fill the frame with smaller subjects, and show off the broad range of colors we get to experience in the underwater world. Here’s some of the...
www.ikelite.com
I have access to a Tokina 10-17mm and the required EF-RF adapter if I want to haul another lens to Palau next month but truthfully won't bother......The RF-S 10-18mm produces great images and it's not a "cheap" kit lens being a bit over $300 here in the US. It punches well above its weight IMHO.....
You CAN go big in size, expense with FULL FRAME either a R6 II / III or R5 / 5 II and EF 8-15mm and EF-RF adapter or the new 7-14mm lens. I likely wouldn't consider either of those due to assembly constraints and shooting APS-C doesn't really gain much for MOST shooters......
When I tried two friend's EF 8-15mm lenses on a APS-C Rebel SL1 I simply set the lens at 12mm to avoid the mild vignetting and "zoomed with my fins".......If you don't shoot fisheye lenses 1' -3' away you won't gain the super wide perspective anyway......Same with the Tokina 10-17mm Fisheye......
As David in Sydney said Ikelite won't make housing for the Canon R50V.......As a still camera it offers nothing over the current R100, R10 or R7.......Even beautiful housing manufacturer Marelux has gone silent on their Canon R50 housing they said they'd be creating likely due to the Canon 21 pin cyber hot shoe (heavy sigh......)
On strobes with Ikelite housing's the Ikelite DS232 and newer RC165 all fiber optic and even little but powerful Ecko Fiber will satisfy most needs.....I actually shoot more WITHOUT strobes these days lowering my physical stress swimming around underwater but that's me LOL......Even when I mount the pair of little Ecko Fiber units many times during a dive I turn them off......
Hope my insights help those wanting to dabble shooting our Canon gear underwater......
There's usable equipment at all price points and I contend simple choices are best.....
Underwater time is so limited (scuba or even snorkeling / free diving) so getting one camera / lens / housing combination and wringing every bit of capability out of it before adding more has been my approach.
Good luck and I hope you enjoy making photos underwater!
David Haas
A new even lower configuration I'll try in a pool soon before Palau! LOL.....This is specifically to answer Riker or DSB and the mention of strobe arms (which I hate too!)

