Advice: extension tubes Macro
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rpt said:
I tried a Kenko 12mm tube and a Canon 1.4xIII converter on a 5DIII.
The AF seems to work if the focus point is more than about 18" away.
If I attempt AF within the yellow Macro range indicated on the lens, the AF is jittery and won't lock on. Manual AF works as well as my eyes do
Is this typical for extension tube use?
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I purchased the kenko extension tube set last year and have been really happy with them despite:
more ISO noise
more light required to get proper exposure
more sensor dust
losing infinity focus
You might also want to look into a macro focusing slider.
Here are a few pics i took with the kenko tubes and the 5D II + canon 100mm 2.8 USM macro lens.
1. Japanese Hawk Moth Caterpillar (スズメガ)
2. Japanese Giant Killer Hornet (オオスズメバチ)
more ISO noise
more light required to get proper exposure
more sensor dust
losing infinity focus
You might also want to look into a macro focusing slider.
Here are a few pics i took with the kenko tubes and the 5D II + canon 100mm 2.8 USM macro lens.
1. Japanese Hawk Moth Caterpillar (スズメガ)
2. Japanese Giant Killer Hornet (オオスズメバチ)
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ETTR or manual exposure.makuroske said:
Yup! Light 101 - the intensity of light is inversely proportional to the square of the distance... So expect that to happen.
Don't know about that...
Yup! So only works for macro work...
+10000! You may want one that moves along two axis. If you ask neuro he'd say get the RRS one...
Lovely!
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I got the Canon versions for the same reason as Neuro, for use with my 600mm, but from what I hear and read, the Kenko will work just as well. Giving the short DOF, I strongly recommend a macro focusing slider and the best I have found is the Really Right Stuff. It is very high quality, very smooth. For really close ups I use the Novoflex bellow. But then your mobility become quite snailish.
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danski0224 said:
Novoflex in general delivers very high quality products. I have not used their slider, but I am sure it´s a very good alternative. It also has some expansion options which could be of interest if this is your main area of photography. To me macro is a fun add-on in the absence of birds and wildlife.
I have been very happy with the RRS heads I have for my tripods and monopod and the solid and simplistic design of their slider appealed to me. The micro focus control you get with the lead screw (1.25mm pr. 360 degree turn) works very well. It is also $200 cheaper than the Novoflex.
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get the kenko tubes. They are relative cheap and give a wide range of extension stacking options
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Camerajah said:
If you talk about the cheap single lens close-up sets, no, they are not recommended. They deliver poor IQ at higher magnifications.
Achromat doublet close-up lenses are much better, see also samples here:
http://photonius.wikispaces.com/Close-up+%26+Macro
Indeed, for an archeological site in the MidEast with presumably lots of dust, a close-up lens on the front may be better than adding/removing extension tubes (the dust issue mentioned).
A set of Raynox lenses (4.8 and 8 diopters) should give good extra magnification on the 100mm macro, and it should have a relatively easy snap-on holder.
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Does anyone have tried connecting the Kenko extension tube to TS-E lens (24 mk II specificly)?
Kenko specify "compatible with Canon EF and EFS lenses"
the Canon original (mk II) state "Compatible with digital EF-S lenses, as well as EF and TS-E lenses"
(the quote is from the B&H site
Eli
Kenko specify "compatible with Canon EF and EFS lenses"
the Canon original (mk II) state "Compatible with digital EF-S lenses, as well as EF and TS-E lenses"
(the quote is from the B&H site
Eli
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L
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eli452 said:
Interesting that B&H states that, because I do not recall Canon having stated that the extenders are compatible with TS-E lenses. In fact, while they are physically compatible, they are not fully electronically compatible in that the TC changes the f/number, and that is not correctly reported in the EXIF (the TS-E lenses lack the additional pins necessary for communication with the TC).
Although I have not tried it, there is no reason a Kenko TC shouldn't work with the TS-E lenses.
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The canon page for the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II names the Extension Tube EF 12 II as an "Supplies & Accessories" option.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ts_e_24mm_f_3_5l_ii#SuppliesAndAccessories
and the "compatible products" link names all but the 17mm TS-E lens.
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ts_e_24mm_f_3_5l_ii#SuppliesAndAccessories
and the "compatible products" link names all but the 17mm TS-E lens.
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surapon
80% BY HEART, 15% BY LENSES AND ONLY 5% BY CAMERA
neuroanatomist said:
Dear Teacher, Mr. Neuroanatomist.
I just read my Manual Book for my TS-E 24 mm F/ 3.5 L MK II =
"13. Extension Tubes( Eng-19)
For TS-E 24 mm F 3.5 L II . You can attach extension tube EF 12 II for magnified shot-----The extension tube EF 12 II cannot used with TS-E 17 mm F/4 L.
Although Extension Tube EF 25 II can be attached on TS-E 24 mm F/ 3.5 L II. It is not recommended because the Lens-to-subject distant will be very short."
Surapon
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eli452 said:
My apologies - you wrote "Kenko extension tube" and I read Kenko extender (aka teleconverter). Sorry for the confusion!
Pretty much any extension tube is physically compatible with pretty much any lens - an extension tube is just a hollow tube filled with air, and most have pass-through electrical contacts.
The compatibility issue with tubes comes from the fact that they increase magnification by decreasing the minimum focus distance, which also means a decreased working distance (distance from front element to subject). The added magnification is the ratio of focal length / tube length. With a longer tube on a shorter lens, it's possible that the MFD is reduced to the point where it's actually behind the front element, meaning you can't focus on the subject at all. That's why you can't use the EF 12 tube with the TS-E 17mm.
Since the Kenko tubes come as a set, you'll be able to use the shorter one(s) with the TS-E 24mm, but not the 36mm tube, and not with them stacked as you can with longer lenses.
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For starters math is not my strong point. Just curious as to how much the MFD is reduced on a 600mm lens when using extension tubes. I currently have two setups.neuroanatomist said:
1. 300/2.8 w/ 2x TC, MFD ~ 10ft.
2. 600/4(non-IS), MFD ~ 20ft.
Will an extension tube(s) get my 600 MFD to ~10 ft?
My slight understanding of the math says no.
Thanks for any enlightenment you may provide.
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The 180L isn't exactly light...but then again, it lets you use extenders, which along with the included tripod collar is 90% of why I chose it over the 100L.neuroanatomist said:
As for your question, it would help to know what you plan to shoot and where - studio or outdoors?
For the 100L, it looks like the 25mm tube gets you to 1.37x, similar to what I get with my 180 + 1.4x, which is significant enough to be worth the investment. I'd go with the 5DIII unless you've got a lot of light as you'll generally be stuck using ISO 1600+ even in good natural light at that magnification. Macro rails are great and I use a RRS Precision Plus Package pano set with pretty good results, but the dedicated RRS or Novoflex rails are much better. They are also much more expensive
Also, that's correct about the TS-E + extenders & tubes. They work, but are not included in the EXIF and in certain combinations can throw off exposure unless LiveView is used.
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candyman said:
From
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/macro-extension-tubes-closeup.htm
"An extension tube increases lens magnification by an amount equal to the extension distance divided by the lens focal length. For example, adding a 25 mm extension tube to a 50 mm lens will give a magnification gain of 0.5X. Therefore, if the lens's original magnification was 0.15X, then the new magnification will be 0.15X+0.5X=0.65X. The closest focusing distance will also decrease to ~210 mm."
and
"Note how extension tubes provide minimal magnification when used with telephoto lenses — which is unfortunately their main weakness."
From
http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_100mm_f_2_8l_macro_is_usm#Specifications
"Closest Focusing Distance
0.99 ft./0.3m (maximum close-up magnification: 1x)"
So, a full set of Kenko tubes adding up to 68mm will increase the magnification of your 100L macro only from 1.0 to 1.68.
You'll have a very shallow depth of field which focus stacking can overcome.
To focus stack you'll need a sturdy tripod and either a macro rail or tethered focusing control, or manual focus steps as you determine by eye, preferably in live view.
If you're shooting artifacts in situ rather than on a work bench or table, your tripod will have to be configured to mount the camera very low to the ground such as is possible with an inverted post. Manual focusing with the ground level mounted camera will be awkward and uncomfortable at best, a total failure at the worst.
I suggest tethered control.
If dust can or will be a factor, that may compromise effectiveness and longevity of a focusing rail will all its exposed components, same for a bellows.
I like Helicon Focus for processing the stacked frames.
The Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro Photo lens magnifies between 1X and 5X but must be focused manually which rules it out of tethered focus control is desired. Might be just what you seek if you'll manually focus (and stack) while live viewing tethered.
There's a thread here, "first attempts at macro stacking, let's see some stuff. (beginners only please)"
.
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