Amateur Photographer Review of the EF 11-24 f/4

Was just heading to bed and then I remembered about the northern lights and although they were very modest I did get a few shots. Unfortunately, my tripod was in my "observatory" and I in sock feet and it was around 0 C. So I just sat the camera on my planter with a banana under the lens! ;)

Take it for what it is, a goofing off shot. :-[

Now, what's up with all the hot pixels!! What can I do? Is this normal for a 2 year old camera and 25k shots?

Jack

Jack
 

Attachments

  • NL_25352.JPG
    NL_25352.JPG
    2 MB · Views: 316
Upvote 0
Jack Douglas said:
Was just heading to bed and then I remembered about the northern lights and although they were very modest I did get a few shots. Unfortunately, my tripod was in my "observatory" and I in sock feet and it was around 0 C. So I just sat the camera on my planter with a banana under the lens! ;)

Take it for what it is, a goofing off shot. :-[

Now, what's up with all the hot pixels!! What can I do? Is this normal for a 2 year old camera and 25k shots?

Jack

Jack

That's a lovely picture. Hot pixels are quite normal and seen in this type of shot. You can either PP them out or pretend that you are a DR Drone and take pictures with your lens cap on. Or with body cap on go to 'manual sensor clean and leave it on for about 30 seconds. Personally I don't bother.
 
Upvote 0
Jack, for a goofing off shot (love the creative banana use), that turned out pretty well! I'd love to see the aurora someday but needless to say my current latitude is too far south and way too humid even if it wasn't. There are some definite advantages to your northern locale!

Also, DxO automatically removes hot pixels...but I wouldn't buy it just for that :)
 
Upvote 0
Sporgon, do I shoot a 30 sec exposure with the cap on and then use the dust delete in DPP or whatever it's called. I'm quite unfamiliar with this - any reference come to mind?

Ian, I think you'd quickly forget about auroras, especially if you were experiencing -30 C, which is when they tend to be best!

Picture the 11-24 at Haida Gwaii based on this never ending sample of shots:

https://www.facebook.com/haidagwaiitourism?sk=photos_stream

Jack
 
Upvote 0
Jack Douglas said:
Sporgon, do I shoot a 30 sec exposure with the cap on and then use the dust delete in DPP or whatever it's called. I'm quite unfamiliar with this - any reference come to mind?

Ian, I think you'd quickly forget about auroras, especially if you were experiencing -30 C, which is when they tend to be best!

Picture the 11-24 at Haida Gwaii based on this never ending sample of shots:

https://www.facebook.com/haidagwaiitourism?sk=photos_stream

Jack
That sounds pretty cold! I grew up in Boston, but used to travel to Milwaukee and Minneapolis. I remember the Milwaukee people telling me that the Minnesota people were crazy to live there. I laughed it off considering their reputation as a cold place. Then I spent a couple of weeks there in January and February including some trips to International Falls. Now I have a better idea what real cold is like!

Also, you are going to get a million killer shots on your trip!
 
Upvote 0
WELL, you can sit the 11-24 @ 11 anywhere and know you'll at least get something of what's out there. I guess I'm the equivalent of a heretic in the world of photography. ;)

Of course the banana wasn't my first choice, it just happened to be sitting near by awaiting breakfast in the morning. Like I said before, I read CR for the humour or is it humor.

Jack
 
Upvote 0
Jack Douglas said:
Sporgon, do I shoot a 30 sec exposure with the cap on and then use the dust delete in DPP or whatever it's called. I'm quite unfamiliar with this - any reference come to mind?
Jack

Just take a 30 second or so exposure with your lens cap on, and then publish the resulting picture along with complains about Canon sensor IQ. Or do a 'manual sensor clean' for about 30 seconds with the lens cap on. Should get rid of most of the hot pixels.
 
Upvote 0
WorkonSunday said:
hi all,

more of a general question, any one read any article/reviews that compare the 17mm TSE to 11-24mm ? at full swing the 17mm gives 11mm coverage too, so it will be interesting to see if 11-24mm at 11mm can match the 17mm.

Cheers,
Keith at Northlight did a quick test of this and found the stitched 17mm shots to provide a slightly wider FOV (CTRL-F "10mm" to find it on the page):
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/lenses/ef_11-24_f4l.html
 
Upvote 0
mackguyver, thanks for the update. Seeing a ton of photos helps a novice see what seems to work and what doesn't. One thing stands out for me - the number of comments about the weight when many pack around the 70-200 without complaint and this is lighter. The weight doesn't phase me a bit but I sure feel somewhat uneasy about the glass! So far so good.

Jack
 
Upvote 0
Jack Douglas said:
Was just heading to bed and then I remembered about the northern lights and although they were very modest I did get a few shots. Unfortunately, my tripod was in my "observatory" and I in sock feet and it was around 0 C. So I just sat the camera on my planter with a banana under the lens! ;)

Take it for what it is, a goofing off shot. :-[

Now, what's up with all the hot pixels!! What can I do? Is this normal for a 2 year old camera and 25k shots?

Jack

Jack

Shure that all thes hot pixels aren't stars? There should also be some colored pixels depending on the defect size.

Do you have noise reduction turned on? There should be some setting which makes a dark frame of e.g. 30 sec after a 30 sec exposure and subtracts the picture. Has been very effective for 5 min exposures with my 40D ...
 
Upvote 0
mb66energy, thanks for that. I'll be trying some of these tricks. Yes there were lots of stars and I didn't think much of it until I noticed "stars" in the side of my garage! ;)

I'm looking forward to some astro landscape and getting out to where it is really dark but there is just so much to learn!!

Jack
 
Upvote 0
Jack Douglas said:
mb66energy, thanks for that. I'll be trying some of these tricks. Yes there were lots of stars and I didn't think much of it until I noticed "stars" in the side of my garage! ;)

I'm looking forward to some astro landscape and getting out to where it is really dark but there is just so much to learn!!

Jack
On my 6D it is found under one of the shoot function menus and the setting is called "Long exp. noise reduction". I think by default it is off but you can turn it on or set it to auto. If you take an exposure longer than 1s with the setting active then the camera will automatically take a dark frame of the same duration as the exposure and subtracts any hot pixels. I'm not sure what this setting is called on other bodies or if it is even available on most Canon bodies. I don't seem to recall it on the 60D. Anyway best regards. If I'm only shooting a small number of exposures then its okay, but if I want to work quickly and adjust various things then take test shots I find the waiting to be annoying.
 
Upvote 0
mackguyver said:
WorkonSunday said:
hi all,

more of a general question, any one read any article/reviews that compare the 17mm TSE to 11-24mm ? at full swing the 17mm gives 11mm coverage too, so it will be interesting to see if 11-24mm at 11mm can match the 17mm.

Cheers,
Keith at Northlight did a quick test of this and found the stitched 17mm shots to provide a slightly wider FOV (CTRL-F "10mm" to find it on the page):
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/lenses/ef_11-24_f4l.html

I think that illustrated the difference in aspect ratio as much as anything. The 17 stitched has a wider horizontal fov but narrower vertical fov than the zoom. The new zoom also seems to have much better projection distortion characteristics in those corners particularly when the subject is closer to the camera.
 
Upvote 0