AutoISO messed up.... AGAIN? arrrrrrr it's just not that difficult

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I dont get that on the 1DS3 until you get to 3200 (H) Up to iso 800 is clean - but then I dont need to push significantly

That's encouraging... though not all models/samples have as much banding as others, in my experience. For example, banding is most offensive on my 5D Mark III, more so than my Mark II or my Mark I.

I cringe as I ask this, on this forum, but: do you mind posting an ISO 100 black frame shot (lens cap on, 1/8000s, smallest aperture) from your 1Ds3? I'd like to see its read noise characteristics.

Thanks in advance.
 
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sarangiman said:
I dont get that on the 1DS3 until you get to 3200 (H) Up to iso 800 is clean - but then I dont need to push significantly

That's encouraging... though not all models/samples have as much banding as others, in my experience. For example, banding is most offensive on my 5D Mark III, more so than my Mark II or my Mark I.

I cringe as I ask this, on this forum, but: do you mind posting an ISO 100 black frame shot (lens cap on, 1/8000s, smallest aperture) from your 1Ds3? I'd like to see its read noise characteristics.

Thanks in advance.

Here is the RAW file

www.squibb.org.uk/pictures/IMG_7603.CR2
 
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Sorry if I am jumping in late and I am not sure if anyone has discussed this within all 10 pages (my 5D MK iii will be here Monday), but the work around I use on the 7D is this: while in Manual Mode I can select the shutter, F stop and ISO such as 100. I then pull up the Menu and on screen 2 go to Expo. comp/AEB. There I can bracket any EC I want. Sure, I wind up with 3 images but that is OK since we don't know in advance what the outcome is going to be in case I screw up. I can set them 1/3 apart or 3 stops apart. I put camera in High Continuous mode and problem is solved. Note, while in M mode, you can also scroll through the M-Fn wheel and make these settings as well. Best of all worlds.

I hope this helps solve the issue.
 
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revup67 said:
Sorry if I am jumping in late and I am not sure if anyone has discussed this within all 10 pages (my 5D MK iii will be here Monday), but the work around I use on the 7D is this: while in Manual Mode I can select the shutter, F stop and ISO such as 100. I then pull up the Menu and on screen 2 go to Expo. comp/AEB. There I can bracket any EC I want. Sure, I wind up with 3 images but that is OK since we don't know in advance what the outcome is going to be in case I screw up. I can set them 1/3 apart or 3 stops apart. I put camera in High Continuous mode and problem is solved. Note, while in M mode, you can also scroll through the M-Fn wheel and make these settings as well. Best of all worlds.

I hope this helps solve the issue.

Bracketing for action shots? Sure. :D If there would be enough time i could set ISO manually. But there isnt.
 
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revup67 said:
Sorry if I am jumping in late and I am not sure if anyone has discussed this within all 10 pages (my 5D MK iii will be here Monday), but the work around I use on the 7D is this: while in Manual Mode I can select the shutter, F stop and ISO such as 100. I then pull up the Menu and on screen 2 go to Expo. comp/AEB. There I can bracket any EC I want. Sure, I wind up with 3 images but that is OK since we don't know in advance what the outcome is going to be in case I screw up. I can set them 1/3 apart or 3 stops apart. I put camera in High Continuous mode and problem is solved. Note, while in M mode, you can also scroll through the M-Fn wheel and make these settings as well. Best of all worlds.

I hope this helps solve the issue.

Does this work with auto iso as well?
 
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bloodstupid said:
With AutoISO this exactly is the problem! What should the camera do if it reaches ISO 100? I can only overexpuse. Sure in AV it would use a faster time. But there is the stupid 1/250 limit which make that useless and to slow in the beginning.

On the 1D4 the shutter speed gets faster - isn't is the same on the 5DIII?
 
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bloodstupid said:
Oh come on, read what this is about, AV is unusable in certain situations because of the 1/250 limit.

That is the minimum - you were asking about what happens if the iso gets to 100 - and the answer is the shutter speed increases.

If you read the whole thread you will have spotted that only the 1 series has the full limit on the shutter speed. I dont see any need to go through that debate again. Simply if you want the full function of the autoiso then the 1 series is the way to go, including ec as well

If you want full iso and can manage without camera ec then the 5DIII works fine in M mode. If you set the minimum speed too low then you will get over exposure as you said. So set the shutter speed so you are at iso400 most of the time and gives yourself two stops.

How difficult can it be?
 
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briansquibb said:
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If you read the whole thread you will have spotted that only the 1 series has the full limit on the shutter speed. I dont see any need to go through that debate again. Simply if you want the full function of the autoiso then the 1 series is the way to go, including ec as well
...
How difficult can it be?

Exactly ... how difficult can it be for Canon to finally implement a fully working Auto-ISO model in all of its DSLRs, or at the very least in those models which are targeted at pro and enthusiast target groups and priced accordingly.

"just go buy a 1 series" is a typical answer I'd expect to hear from die-hard Canon fanboys or paid PR forum posters.

It is no SOLUTION whatsoever, as Canon's Auto-ISO feature even in the 1 series is not fully functional (as demonstrated earlier in this thread - e.g. it does not take into account focal length of lens attached) and is sub-par to what Nikon offers in the much less expensive, "second-tier" Nikon D800.

The 1/250s limit on the 5D III can only be rated as an act of "provocant, in-your-face marketing differentiation" by Canon. There is simply no other reason to explain this severe and mindless limitation.

So the only sensible course of action for people owning a 5D 3 or being interested to buy one is creating enough continued "noise" on the net to wake up Canon and have them implement this feature via a simple and dirt-cheap firmware update ... ASAP!

And no, I will NOT buy a Canon 1 series when all I want is a firmware upgrade to get state-of-the art Auto-ISO on my 7D too.
 
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I could write an algorithm (used to be a programmer) which would be the be all and end all for auto ISO. It would do everything everyone wanted and take care of all of the situations that it needed to. It would take me about 15 minutes (although coding much longer of course).

Canon chose not to do that with their implementation of auto ISO and it remains, along with the viewfinder red/black points issues, the only two disappointments with the camera.

I can't decide whether it's that they don't see it as a useful feature or if they want to keep it away from the 5d3.

I'll be honest - if this camera had a really good auto ISO I'd probably buy another one and retire my 5d2 entirely. I love the fact that all I need to worry about is EC. It's great!! However, it "only just" works in that, when I switch from my 50L to my 135L, I need to remember to set the shutter speed minimum and sometimes I forget. What's wrong with having settings per lens? What's wrong with having an option to override the settings you've put in the camera and using a shutter speed more relevant? I just don't get how hard it can be and it could be an AWESOME feature. I could spend SO much of my day on auto ISO if the feature was correctly implemented :(
 
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AvTvM said:
Exactly ... how difficult can it be for Canon to finally implement a fully working Auto-ISO model in all of its DSLRs, or at the very least in those models which are targeted at pro and enthusiast target groups and priced accordingly.

I think it's been pretty well established that there's no significant technical difficulty to implement this in all bodies down to the T3/1100D. The fact that they haven't done so indicates that they have other reasons for not doing so.

So, it's time to stop
deadhorse.gif
.
 
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yawn... shot several paid shoots so far with the 5d3, a few using auto iso.... no problems so far... got my min shutter set to 125 when using my 24-105, and auto iso does the rest. but just think of it, seriously, 10 years ago there was no auto iso, you had to dial it in, use an external meter because in camera meters, if any, were crap, and even with that, you would buy a brick of film, waste the first roll of the brick testing it so you can dial in exactly how it will expose with your meter, and compensate from there... gasp... whatever did we do? Going between indoor and outdoor scenes... you had to gasp, use more light, waste the rest of the roll to change film, or if you were the bomb, you kept notes on how far you were so when you went back to a roll you can auto advance by manually shooting blanks to get back to where you were without wasting rolls. Dont get me wrong, I appreciate auto ISO, but i'm not going to blame it if i miss an exposure, afterall it is picking up after my lazy butt because i chose not to crunch the math and do it myself. Also about the black dots, i offered a workaround for low light situations and black dots on the other thread but no one bothered to check it out. Bright sunlight doesn't show the red confirmation, but if you cant see the dots in bright light, you need your eyes checked.
 
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Some more years ago movies had not color and sound..some more, people made paintings...who cares what was.

Real fixes are always better than workarounds. Sure you can press 2 buttons for focusing to have it illuminated before AF start...but with the MII it was all in one button. BTW the problem with the non-illuminated AF points occurs when its dark. And this is the AutoISO wish thread.
 
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