Marsu42 said:In general ettl is ingenious to quickly dial in an ambient/object ratio. Not that the "correct" exposure at fec 0 often looks over-flashed, at least to me - you might want to start at -1 to get less broken shots. Raising shadows with fill flash in postprocessing is doable, but trying a over-flashed shot is a pita.
eninja said:But even i set camera exposure to +1 and FEC to -3. Flash fires strongly resulting to not fire on the next shot..
The downside of ettl is that it relies on your camera's metering, so it's a good idea do be able to do both - ettl and m flash if you shoot the same or similar scenes again.
Note that there are two situations where ettl hurts:
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[*]To get *maximum* flash output, set the flash to m and full power. This way you don't waste power on the pre-flash which will only result in the camera telling the flash "dial to 11" anyway. The same applies if you want to do as many consecutive flashes as possible on lower output
[*]Automatic flash power might not be able to get the *minimal* flash output. If your subject is too near, and zooming the flash out, fanning and whatnot still over-flashes try to use m flash at min. power setting.
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Last not least, flash is indeed one of the subjects where reading a book or good website is really a good idea - unlike a lot of other photography stuff you can simply figure out reading/posting some forum threads and trial & error.
Are you sure the pre-flash is disabled in M mode? When I have used speedlites with for example the Quadra, there's an option to ignore a certain number of pre flashes to make the speedlite and the Quadra sync properly. I had loads of tries where the flash would trigger the Quadra too soon, and had to find the number of preflashes so they wouldn't trigger the quadra, and the speedlite was never in ETTL, nor was it triggered by the ST-E3, but the Elinchrom Skyports.
Correct me if I'm wrong
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