Battle of the 50mm's - 1.8, 1.4 and 1.2L

[shermanstank]

I bought mine a couple of months ago--- circa 2011. I heard that the focusing issues were corrected after mid-2010.
Here's another shot coming from my baby 50 1.2L. It's just an amazing lens. You gotta know how and when to use it. No lens is perfect. But this 50L is one special piece of glass.

 

[kirispupis]

Although I agree that most lenses are best between F8-F11, I do not agree with ignoring the F-stop. The best lenses are made to be used wide open. For Canon L lenses are designed to be very sharp wide open - unlike the kit lenses which tend to be extremely soft. I use most of my lenses wide open a high percentage of the time.

If you take Sears portrait style shots, then yes the f-stop of the lens won't be as important because you will not be shooting wide open very often. However for more artistic style shots I find the nice bokeh from a wide open shot far more appealing.

The other thing is I have noticed that you do get what you pay for with most lenses - as long as you truly need it. If you are just posting on Facebook and FlickR you really don't need that ultra sharp lens with minimal distortion and color fringing.

I gather from the original poster that he actually intends to USE his 50mm lens. He is just trying to figure out which one is the best for his needs. In terms of that matter I would put the 50mm lenses into two categories.

Macro 50's - Canon 2.5 and Zeiss 2. The Zeiss is basically superior in every category, but unfortunately also in price.

Portrait 50's - Canon's 1.8, 1.4, and 1.2. You can probably also add Sigma's 1.4. In terms of which works best that depends on your needs. If you're on a super budget get the 1.8. I know several people who's 1.8's have fallen apart though, so if you have the money the 1.4 is the much better choice. Yes, if you take care of the 1.8 that can be less of an issue but the fact is if this lens is being regularly used it will get banged up.

I have heard that the Sigma is better than the Canon 1.4, but I have a hard time trusting the quality of Sigma. For the record Zeiss also makes a 1.4 for Canon.

In terms of the 1.2, if you have the budget for it rent it and try it out. From using this lens for the weekend you'll have a very good idea whether this is a lens you'll love or hate.

 

[shermanstank]

Yes. You need to try the lens out and make sure that the lens and body are calibrated accordingly. I guess I got lucky with the purchase and I do test my lens. Focusing is a must and the 50L nails it. Bokeh and rendition of colors are more important than ultra-sharpness in the overall image quality. The 50L in my experience is very sharp wide open but I love it for the bokeh and colors... Enough for me to justify the purchase price. Here's another one from the nifty-fifty L---- sorry for the duct tape ;D

 

[dtaylor]

Here's a solid vote for the Sigma 50 f/1.4. It's optically better at wide apertures than even the f/1.2L (check the TDP ISO crops). It is built very well with a true ring sonic motor. (Though it's not weather sealed. If you need that the L is the only option.) And it has absolutely amazing bokeh.

The Canon f/1.8 and f/1.4 50's are only usable wide open in an emergency. The Sigma is very good and usable wide open, excellent at f/2, and stunning at f/2.8. 20" and 30" portrait prints from a 7D and the Sigma are no problem.

The focus issues are exaggerated IMHO. Every fast 50 has "focus issues" because nailing focus at f/2 and wider is difficult. FYI I found the 50 f/1.8 to be far less precise and reliable in terms of focus than the Sigma 50 f/1.4.

If you're really worried, go to a good local shop and test a few samples before buying.

Fast lenses shot wide open challenge an AF system. When I'm working really close, I use spot AF. At other distances I use single point AF. I also use AI Servo with this lens even when shooting still subjects. I find that holding AF and waiting for the lens to "settle" gives me a higher keeper rate. It doesn't take very long, but it seems like one shot AF decides on focus just a fraction of a second too soon with this lens.

 

[llenuts]

I'll just leave this here...

 

[shermanstank]

I see that the right most lens is the 50 1.0L not a 1.2 but a 1.0----- The 1.0L is older and costs at least 2x with that of the 1.2L. The problem with the 1.0L is that the image softness ,wide open is unacceptable. Here's another shot from the 50 1.2L

 

[llenuts]

The problem with the 1.0L is that the image softness ,wide open is unacceptable.

You know this from personal experience, or just from reviews you have read online?

 

[shermanstank]

Yes I have tried the 50mm 1.0L-- It is way too heavy and focuses very slow. Wide open it is just too soft compared with the 1.2L. There is a reason why they made the 50 1.2L to address these issues. Now if you have the 50 1.0L, and have money to keep it, then it has its place for creativity ( bokeh) , but the 1.2L easily outperforms the 1.0L in most practical applications.


Here's another one from el 50 1.2L. So if anyone is on the fence from buying one, just go ahead and snag one for as long as the date code starts with "UZ" == circa 2011. I am very happy with mine ;D

 

[Edwin Herdman]

Another issue with the 50mm f/1L is that it reportedly is no longer being serviced - if your focus unit breaks, you won't be able to even manually focus, from the report I read.

 

[wickidwombat]

shermanstank was that shot at 1.2? what were the other settings? what body did you use
it does look good currently i have the 1.4 i like the small size I wish they would do a smaller better built 1.4L
the 1.2 is tempting but i think i would go for an 85mm f1.2 before trading in my 50 1.4 for a 1.2

 

[shermanstank]

WICKIDWOMBAT---I took this shot using my professional 35mm film camera 1V-HS using KODAK PORTA 400. I used ISO 400 and +1/3 EV compensation. Center-weighted metering. I had to shoot it wide open @ 1.2 to get as much light as possible. If you are thinking of purchasing the 85 1.2L II buy one that has a date code "UZ" == circa 2011. I had a lens fever and bought both the 50L and 85L at the same time this year. Did I regret it? Not at all. Are they perfect lenses? No. cause if they were then there will be no updates in the future! =) But regardless of any updates, if you decide to buy a particular lens, just remember that you are doing it for the love of photography. Will I sell my 50 1.2l if the mark II comes out? No. why? Because the lens for me produces beautiful images. Proper technique/lighting has a more profound effect on image quality/impact than sharpness alone. the 50L is sharp, but the colors and bokeh are truly magical.

You will love the 85 1.2L II. It is an amazing piece of glass. It focuses slowly because of the amount of glass to move but if you have the skill and PATIENCE to nail the shot.. then you have a lot of keepers when you upload the images to your computer. I love shooting film. My two 1V-HS 35mm SLRs perform flawlessly and they are cheaper than most DSLRs. They make you think deliberately before you take the shot. ( one click costs $$) -- thus making you a better photographer =)

Cheers,

Sherwin

 

[wickidwombat]

cool thanks for the info thats a very clean film shot, do you use manual focus often? I am considering getting the S focus screen for my 5D mk2 and was hoping this would assist with manual focus particularly in low light
also with a lens this bright I would imagine manual should be ok for stationary subjects

 

[shermanstank]

WICKIDWOMBAT--- Thank you! No I use autofocus a lot for low light with a manually selected CENTER focusing point ( most sensitive focusing point) . If there is sufficient ambient light I then select the left or right offset focusing points --- to follow rule of thirds. ---- It would be too boring if the subjects are placed at the dead center all the time ;D

The only time I manually focus is for MACRO shots ( obviously) and for when the subject is stationary/ not moving too much ( posed). In addition if there are surrounding subjects/objects that are very close, most especially just right in front of the subject/object I want to isolate , and I CANNOT GET CLOSER I would then MANUALLY focus.--- It is easier to focus. isolate subjects/objects when you are in an ideal subject to camera focusing distance.

I believe that no matter how fast your lens is... if you have insufficient lighting, the scene is not worth taking a picture of. BEAUTIFUL SUBJECT + BAD LIGHT === BAD PICTURE NOT SO BEAUTIFUL SUBJECT + GOOD LIGHT ===== GREAT PICTURE!

My 2 cents.

Cheers,

Sherwin

 

[scottsdaleriots]

How would you properly test out a 'fast 50mm' in a store in say less than 5mins with bad/insufficient lighting? Are there some of of 'tests' that you could do, e.g. focussing (both AF/M, there's going to be insufficient light meaning the lens will have trouble trying to focus.

I mean ideally you'd like to spend as much time as you can with the lens before you buy it (not renting). As I've heard some people get good copies and there are some duds in a btach of lenses. That's why I want to test out the copy I'm going to buy. I reaosn I say <5mins is because some of the camera stores here don't allow you to use/test out the lens that much as if something happens and you break the lens well, that's one less lens that they could've sold (lost $$$). I know it sounds silly but it's true not to mention they watch you like a hawk even if it's a plastic cheapo lens.

ATM I'm currently thinking of using the 50mm lens (don't know which one yet) for live music (concert photography) as that's what I really want to use the 50mm lens for - if I'm able to obtain a media pass and get in front of the performers/band, in front of the crowd where the security guys are, my 70-200 is just plain too long. My kit lens (which is only f/3.5-5.6) most likely wouldn't be able to handle the low light situation (as the concert will probably be inside a stadium/arena or late at night outdoor arena with the only light source being the stage lights, spot lights, etc. Obviously the 50 is a nice portraiture lens but I want to know if it's great for live music outdoors.

Excuse the lengthy posts I am just trying to decipher and work out which 50 is the best for me - I"m not a professional but I probably will be in the future. I don't like having to upgrade to newer/better gear because to me (in my straight-thinking logic) thinks that is just wasting money; plain and simple. There are pro's and con's to doing it that way, I know. I certainly don't want buyer's regret a couple of days after I buy my 50mm lens. I want to try out the sigma and other 3rd party brands since some people say they're better than Canon, etc. But I'm afraid on the off-chance it will stuff up my camera.

Also someone posted in here http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php/topic,2269.0.html (reply #4) that the rebates aren't as good deals as they're meant to be. Is that true? I don't live in the US so I don't have a clue I just know that camera gear here is way too overpriced and it's cheaper to buy overseas - but you can't actually test it out before hand and the major deterrent of the shipping fees costing an arm and a leg.

 

[niccyboy]

I love my 1.2.... permanently attached to one of my 5d2s.

 

[dtaylor]

How would you properly test out a 'fast 50mm' in a store in say less than 5mins with bad/insufficient lighting? Are there some of of 'tests' that you could do, e.g. focussing (both AF/M, there's going to be insufficient light meaning the lens will have trouble trying to focus.

I actually bought my Sigma used and spent less then 5 minutes testing it. I simply focused on various objects, in good light, shot, and checked the results. The results were reasonable for f/1.4. Most were in focus and those which were not I could get in focus with a slight variation on AF mode or technique. I own other fast lenses so I knew what to expect here.

If you lack confidence in your ability to judge on the fly like this, take a focus adjustment chart, set it up, and shoot it, then judge the results at maximum magnification on the LCD. Manually defocus, AF, and shoot, then repeat several times, and do so at a couple different distances. I wouldn't expect perfection. Any fast lens I've ever tried this with will be a bit off 1 or 2 times out of 10. But if it's good for most shots, or is good after a quick MFA, then you're good. If it's all over the place, then check another copy. And, again, I would actually try AI Servo and shooting after the AF has "settled". I actually like this technique for any fast prime, though it seems to make a larger difference with the Sigma (and maybe the other 50's?).

This can be done in 5 minutes.

 

[scottsdaleriots]

I tested out both the 1.2L and 1.4 today in like 5 or minutes - really bad time constraints and there was really bad lighting in the store. I wanted to test out the sigma version but they didnt have it in store : ha. They didnt have a chart so I couldnt do that ^ test.

I think I would need to spent more time testing these lenses.

 

[scottsdaleriots]

What about getting one of the Nikon 50mm lenses and using a lens adapter? It's cheaper and I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area so I thought I'd just throw the idea out there. I was looking up videos of 7d's with the 50mm 1.4 lens (video footage of the combo not images/photos) on youtube and found that someone have used a nikon 50mm and adapted it to their 7d. Another person used a FD or something adapter to adapter some 50mm - I can't remember what it was.

 

[Edwin Herdman]

How would you properly test out a 'fast 50mm' in a store in say less than 5mins with bad/insufficient lighting?

Very tentatively; don't try to read more into the results than you should.

Poor lighting conditions present the perfect opportunity to test out a "fast" 50mm prime - at least for the wide aperture performance. I would make sure I could take some f/8 shots as well, though, to test out absolute sharpness (put it on a countertop for that).

What about getting one of the Nikon 50mm lenses and using a lens adapter? It's cheaper and I don't have a lot of knowledge in this area so I thought I'd just throw the idea out there. I was looking up videos of 7d's with the 50mm 1.4 lens (video footage of the combo not images/photos) on youtube and found that someone have used a nikon 50mm and adapted it to their 7d. Another person used a FD or something adapter to adapter some 50mm - I can't remember what it was.

This strikes me as a good idea, if you are OK with manual focus. I've actually been considering getting an F-mount-to-EF adapter and a f/1.2 AI (or AI-s, but for that price you might as well get the Canon lens and keep the AF) sometime to play with. Nikon also made a fast 55mm lens, apparently, so check that out too.

Not sure about sharpness on these, so buyer beware.

 

[Loswr]

So if anyone is on the fence from buying one, just go ahead and snag one for as long as the date code starts with "UZ" == circa 2011.

If you are thinking of purchasing the 85 1.2L II buy one that has a date code "UZ" == circa 2011.

Sherwin, you mention this on two occasions. Are you aware of some stealth modifications or other changes that make the 50/1.2L and 85/1.2L II lenses produced in 2011 better than older copies? If so, what changes, and what's your source for the information?

Thanks!