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There are tons of posts online about this... basically you can either go with a copy stand or something quite kludge-y. I made a light table and a wood brace that keeps my camera locked into position... I didn't use florescent lighting. Very simple for both 135 and 120, quick but not the best results as you are often spending an inordinate amount of time "cleaning" the images. Even white gloved and de-static work areas still require attention in post. In reality using a 3k$ camera for copy work is kind of ridiculous as you can get phenomenal scanners for a fraction of the cost. I only use my 5DSr for scanning work at this point... really don't use Canon for much these days beyond snapshots and scanning.
If I want super clean images, 600 dpi res... flatbed scanner (Epson 800 or Canon 9000i) and use automation software to remove dust. Batch scan and come back when all finished. I dev all my own film (C41, E6, BW) in a CPE2 as I prefer the control. If client work I usually send out negs for drum scans. Color is always by scanner, BW can go either way.
Leica MP with a Summicron 35 f/2
Ilford FP4+ EI 65
Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 12:00 @20c
(5DSr with 100mm "scan")
This cannot be done with a DSLR as the negative is 2x3 in medium format... both this camera and my 6x12 create negative issues with a DSLR. Forget about 4x5 or LF, only scanners for this type of work.
Fuji GSW690III with 65mm f5.6
Kodax TMY-2 EI 300
Ilford FP4+ EI 65
Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 8:00 @20c
(Epson V800)
If I want super clean images, 600 dpi res... flatbed scanner (Epson 800 or Canon 9000i) and use automation software to remove dust. Batch scan and come back when all finished. I dev all my own film (C41, E6, BW) in a CPE2 as I prefer the control. If client work I usually send out negs for drum scans. Color is always by scanner, BW can go either way.
Leica MP with a Summicron 35 f/2
Ilford FP4+ EI 65
Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 12:00 @20c
(5DSr with 100mm "scan")
This cannot be done with a DSLR as the negative is 2x3 in medium format... both this camera and my 6x12 create negative issues with a DSLR. Forget about 4x5 or LF, only scanners for this type of work.
Fuji GSW690III with 65mm f5.6
Kodax TMY-2 EI 300
Ilford FP4+ EI 65
Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 8:00 @20c
(Epson V800)
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Thanks for the reply. The pictures you post look so good that when you mentioned your "scanning" I was curious.
I have a slide scanner that will also accept a strip of 35mm negatives. Some day I'd like to scan in some of my old black and white negatives, but I have many projects to go before that (enough to last me to age 132, at the rate I'm going).
I have used my iPad like a light box for color slides. One time I tried taking a photo of a slide on the iPad with my 100mm macro, and the result was surprisingly good, especially given the lack of care I used in the process.
Fortunately, the VueScan software works very well with the slide scanner, even compensating for the masks on different brands of color negatives.
Many years ago I did process color slides on occasion. I also experimented with using color slide film to make unmasked negatives. I don't recall what process I used for that. They did give an interesting effect on the color prints.
I have a slide scanner that will also accept a strip of 35mm negatives. Some day I'd like to scan in some of my old black and white negatives, but I have many projects to go before that (enough to last me to age 132, at the rate I'm going).
I have used my iPad like a light box for color slides. One time I tried taking a photo of a slide on the iPad with my 100mm macro, and the result was surprisingly good, especially given the lack of care I used in the process.
Fortunately, the VueScan software works very well with the slide scanner, even compensating for the masks on different brands of color negatives.
Many years ago I did process color slides on occasion. I also experimented with using color slide film to make unmasked negatives. I don't recall what process I used for that. They did give an interesting effect on the color prints.
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stevelee said:
Nice, yea... you can go really low tech or hi-tech. Most of the time the results will be the same. The real PITA is dust/scratches on old negs... Even new negs can get hammered. I often take a quick shot with the Canon just to make contact sheets (or use a loupe but my eyes tire quickly this way). Pick the winners and scan with a flatbed. I started with Vuescan and now use Silverfast, both seem to be pretty good I just like Silverfast a little better.
Since I'm here...
Mamiya RZ67 Pro II
210mm Mamiya Sekkor
Kodak TMY-2 EI 300
Ilfotec DD-X (1+4) 8:00 @20c
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At the risk of getting my head bitten off I would point out that getting rid of dust and scratches in scans can be done remarkably effectively with the Photoshop filter 'Dust & Scratches' under 'Filter'-'Noise'-'Dust & Scratches'. If it impacts detail too much then it can be applied with a mask so you don't have to do all the cloning and spot healing.
I once used it to remove stubble from a guys face, it is a very powerful and tunable.
I once used it to remove stubble from a guys face, it is a very powerful and tunable.
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Eldar said:I have not posted much lately, but I am still shooting
Here is one that might get sensored. On the south-eastern coast of Norway, we have the most incredible rock formations by the sea. Polished through the last ice-age and the constant hammering from the sea.
See what you mean
Interesting shot.
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Eldar said:I have not posted much lately, but I am still shooting
Here is one that might get sensored. On the south-eastern coast of Norway, we have the most incredible rock formations by the sea. Polished through the last ice-age and the constant hammering from the sea.
Hi Eldar, took me a while to see it, only excuse being I just turned 69, but its not gone, i did see it.
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Amazing!Eldar said:I have not posted much lately, but I am still shooting
Here is one that might get sensored. On the south-eastern coast of Norway, we have the most incredible rock formations by the sea. Polished through the last ice-age and the constant hammering from the sea.
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Old family Bible belonging to my maternal grandmother prior to her marriage: I can't find a publishing date but it would be from the last quarter of the nineteenth century. "Appointed to be read in churches" says an inscription inside. Printed in Akron, Ohio. The bookmark is an old prize ribbon but I don't know what it's for and have no one to ask.
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Eldar said:He he, Edward ... 69 is not THAT old
Early this year I went to Lake Kerkini in northern Greece, where the fantastic dalmatian pelican stays over the winter. This one, looking into the sunset, looks like a bird´s version of Lord Nelson.
Lovely Image
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d
beautiful image
I'm in admiration of the tonal ranges in these images. is that down to great processing skill and/or really good exposure? I love b&w but mine always look flat to me even after spending an age on curves and black point adjustments.
Eldar said:He he, Edward ... 69 is not THAT old
Early this year I went to Lake Kerkini in northern Greece, where the fantastic dalmatian pelican stays over the winter. This one, looking into the sunset, looks like a bird´s version of Lord Nelson.
beautiful image
I'm in admiration of the tonal ranges in these images. is that down to great processing skill and/or really good exposure? I love b&w but mine always look flat to me even after spending an age on curves and black point adjustments.
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While I can make nice black and white prints with my Epson R3000, I have the same problem as you with pictures on the screen. The ones people post here look great on the internet.
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