CAMERA SETTING for Firework - Your thoughts???

[bdunbar79]

I don't use Bulb mode either.

 

[@!ex]

Whoever is taking pics tonight, lets all post our shots later and compare.

 

[bdunbar79]

Whoever is taking pics tonight, lets all post our shots later and compare.

I am shooting at the Ashland, OH fireworks. I'll try as much stuff as I can, but these local fireworks shows go quickly.

 

[bdunbar79]

My luck tonight was as follows: The scene you see here SHOULD have been the viewpoint of the fireworks: (yes that "junk" you see beside the lightning, is heavy hail and rain, it is not a photo artifact :-[)

 

[@!ex]

My luck tonight was as follows: The scene you see here SHOULD have been the viewpoint of the fireworks: (yes that "junk" you see beside the lightning, is heavy hail and rain, it is not a photo artifact :-[)

Actually I really like the shot, so all is not lost...

 

[@!ex]

Here is what I came up with tonight. Also, there is another thread Revup started that may be a better place to post...

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=7823.0


Mile High 'Merica by @!ex, on Flickr

 

[squarebox]

You guys need to come to Japan. Local fireworks here last about 2.5 hours and occur somewhere in Japan every weekend throughout the summer.

 

[mb66energy]

In the manual of my Canon EF (1974 model SLR) there was a section about general photographic procedures and they had an information for fireworks:
100 ISO with f/11 - I remember it as Rule 111 = 100 + 11

This works well and preserves the colors of the individual effects. I haven't observed it by using 200 ISO and f/11 - see the image below. After using -1EV in DPP i regained structure and color in the upper right pattern (blueish-white).

Combine it with Bulb and a cable release and ... you are there. Use Bulb to collect the fireworks "image" and control the balance between fireworks and surroundings. A black cloth (or hat) can be used to suppress light from additional firework activity and enhance the light of the surroundings.

About focus: set the focus carefully with AF (use a bright light/building element) in the same distance like the fireworks or use live view.

Best - Michael

EDIT: Why does the 111-rule work so well? Pyrotechnique is very stable: (1) They burn magnesium with some oxidants and additives which produce the colors and (2) the velocity of the "glow balls" are nearly the same, similar explosives and the same gravitational field (hopefully).
But - as Chuck below stated - see this role as a STARTING POINT and use variations for your artistical expression ...

 

[Chuck Alaimo]

my suggestion is there is no hard fast this is what happens with fireworks rule. As stated by another, ISO 100 f11, yes, that is a good starting point, but what works at the beginning does not work in the finale. Throughout the course there will be big flashes of light, lesser flashes, then a big one followed by little ones. I was ranging between f8-f22, and from about 10 sec to 30 sec last night (ISO never left 100). So yeah, f11 is a good place to start, but, depending on where the display is, and the surrounding light, size of display, and overall creative effect ---f11 is a good start, but play around!!!

 

[awinphoto]

Great shots chuck and @lex. My luck wasn't so hot... not because of storms per-se, but winds... high winds delayed the fireworks over an hour and after 10:15 give or take, it was time to pack it in, get kids to bed, etc... Of course right after we got home, got everyone to bed, I could hear the fireworks in the distance... Oh well...

 

[westr70]

Awesome shots! Thanks for sharing and the information.

 

[scottkinfw]

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

 

[scottkinfw]

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

 

[scottkinfw]

Here is one where I adjusted temp to left.

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

 

[scottkinfw]

Long exposure ~ 4-6 sec

Here is one where I adjusted temp to left.

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

 

[scottkinfw]

this is a 2-3 second range exposure.

All quite different results.

Long exposure ~ 4-6 sec

Here is one where I adjusted temp to left.

Here is one in about the 4 second range

I used f11 or so, iso 100 and 3 to 6 second exposures and got way different results.

I'll post a few.

Bulb is waaaaaay too long. You want an exposure in the range of a few to several seconds. Just as with lightning and with flash, aperture controls exposure; shutter speed controls the length of the tracks. Base ISO is good.

The challenge for exposure with fireworks comes when you try to shoot more than just the fireworks themselves, like including upturned faces or the city skyline. There's even going to be a full moon low in the sky on the Fourth...if you can shoot the moon and the fireworks, fantastic, but good luck getting the exposure right....

Cheers,

b&

 

[Chuck Alaimo]

This was my first real attempt at shooting fireworks (with a camera). I think it came out pretty good. This was about 6-7+ exposures of anywhere from .5 sec to 15 sec. I stacked them up, and like what I was able to get. I applied what I have been learning from star trail photography to this process, and it gave me a bit more creative freedom. It is especially challenging if you want to get the right exposure on the foreground as well as the fireworks, but taking multiple exposures really is the only way to get it right.


Diamonds of Independence by @!ex, on Flickr

Very nice work! I am just learning the art of composite blending. Spent a while doing mainly HDR work, and I do love it but want to get away from that overly surreal look and the halos. I sense composite blending may be my next big learning assignment (along with really mastering off cam lighting)

 

[bdunbar79]

Here is what I came up with tonight. Also, there is another thread Revup started that may be a better place to post...

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=7823.0


Mile High 'Merica by @!ex, on Flickr

That is really cool.

 

[@!ex]

Here is what I came up with tonight. Also, there is another thread Revup started that may be a better place to post...

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=7823.0


Mile High 'Merica by @!ex, on Flickr

Thanks, I appreciate it.

That is really cool.

 

[@!ex]

This was my first real attempt at shooting fireworks (with a camera). I think it came out pretty good. This was about 6-7+ exposures of anywhere from .5 sec to 15 sec. I stacked them up, and like what I was able to get. I applied what I have been learning from star trail photography to this process, and it gave me a bit more creative freedom. It is especially challenging if you want to get the right exposure on the foreground as well as the fireworks, but taking multiple exposures really is the only way to get it right.


Diamonds of Independence by @!ex, on Flickr

Very nice work! I am just learning the art of composite blending. Spent a while doing mainly HDR work, and I do love it but want to get away from that overly surreal look and the halos. I sense composite blending may be my next big learning assignment (along with really mastering off cam lighting)

Ya blending is really important, and can actually really add to HDR when the two are combined. Also if you do HDR right and really learn how the settings in your tone mapping software work, it can be done without any halos and surreality.