I have the 60D plus EF-S 60mm f/2.8, and this is a good combination for general macro (I am not a dentist, I am a pathologist, so my specimens are sitting on a copy stand - I don't need image stabilization: IS, OS, VC are the brand terms for stabilization). For hand-held, the Canon 100mm f/2.8 L IS ($1,050.00) may be a good choice due to the IS, and also consider third party dedicated 1:1-capable macro lenses with IS in the 90-150mm range, Sigma 105mm f/2.8 OS ($670.00) and Tamron 90mm f/2.8 VC($750.00). Do the patients object to flash? Your camera sensor will be 11 to 12 inches from the patient, with the lens being about 5" long, the front of the lens will be 6" to 7" from the patient's face for 1:1 image (you may not need 1:1 for an APS-C camera, 1:2 may be fine). If this is too cramped for you, go to the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS, wihich gives you 9" between front of lens and patient for 1:1. The 90-105mm lenses are lighter weight. By all means skip the 180 mm macros, which are quite heavy and rather intimidating - I have the Canon 180mm f/3.5L, and it is a beast.
For lighting, I shall defer to the dentists. A ring light would seem like the obvious choice. There's lots of different choices. The ceiling light or a headlamp would serve as a necessary angle fill light. Get a store-bought solution. Insect/flower/coin macrophotographers often custom build a flash diffuser from an existing hot-shoe flash , but you shouldn't, because you want a professional appearing flash rig, not one made out of a Pringles can.
For lighting, I shall defer to the dentists. A ring light would seem like the obvious choice. There's lots of different choices. The ceiling light or a headlamp would serve as a necessary angle fill light. Get a store-bought solution. Insect/flower/coin macrophotographers often custom build a flash diffuser from an existing hot-shoe flash , but you shouldn't, because you want a professional appearing flash rig, not one made out of a Pringles can.
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