GmwDarkroom said:Question: Does the live view give quick focusing on the "first focus"? I know Canon said that the smooth focus changes were there intentionally, but does it snap to the first selection between shots well?
Question- It kind of depends on a few things. I am learning that it helps to have your subject fill the frame, when it gets small is when it gets erratic, it isn't so much distance, its how large the subject is in the frame. The amount of contrast also seems to play a role, a hard edge seems to focus quicker than say a grey wall.
sdsr said:MichaelTheMaven said:I am hesitant to use many RAW images for analysis in these comparisons for a few assumptions (which also may be incorrect):
1. Everyone has a different way to process RAW, and in many cases, some people will be more or less effective & creative in processing RAW files than others. The variation you can get between someone who really knows what they are doing in RAW vs someone who doesn't is pretty wide.
2. Even converting the RAW files into JPEGs to display in the video often changes how they look comparatively.
3. I'm more interested in what the processors are doing in camera, as the typical user (example: soccer mom) wont even use RAW files.
That all makes sense to me, and the "soccer mom" model may well be as good a target audience as any (assuming such a buyer seeks out reviews such as yours in the first place!); it underlines the point that comparing image quality is difficult given the almost infinite number of variables a user can play with. But maybe next time, if you have the time, you could toss in a couple of minimally processed (e.g. nothing more than LR's default import settings) RAW files along with the rest.
If you want to see if Rockwell's "fix" for the green bias works on the D7100, here's his recipe for the D600 (I've no idea how well it works there, either):
MENU > SHOOTING > White Balance > AUTO > right click to AUTO Normal > right click to the rainbow chart > click one down to M1 > OK.
Set M1, and the green goes away and the LCD looks fine. My biggest whines about this is that we ought not have to tweak it to get neutral color, and when we do tweak it, exactly like the other 2012 FX Nikons, the jump between M0 and M1 isn't fine enough to let me dial-out the green exactly how I'd like it dialed out.
Good info worth sharing. Thank you!
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