Canon EF 12-24 f/2.8L [CR1]

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pedro said:
jrista said:
I would absolutely LOVE a 12-24 f/2.8 L for wide-field astrophotography! Imagine the length of exposures you could get, or at lower ISOs, with a 12mm f/2.8 lens! Ooooh, the bliss! I'd spend the money for it, too...12mm f/2.8 astrophotography...man I'm DROOLIN!! ;D

In terms of exposure time, here is what I figure. Currently, with my 16-35 f/2.8 L, I usually get about 30 seconds at 16mm out of it, at ISO 800 - 1600, for a decent "printable" shot (i.e. a shot that could be printed at native size...13x19 for the 7D...without particularly noticeable startrailing. Rule of 600 would indicate 38 seconds, so I shorten that a bit for printability). For a web-sized shot, I can usually expose for about 40-45 seconds, and often use a higher ISO. With the 12-24 f/2.8 L, I figure I could get 45-50 seconds out of it for printables, and maybe as much as 65-75 seconds for web-sized shots! And that is nothing to say of the wider field of view, which would be nice at times...

@jrista: Did I get that wrong with rule of 600? I thought the calculation 600:lens length refers to its LONG end? So the 16-35 won't give you more than about 16 sec of exposure. Therefore I like the 5D3 which allows me to crank up the ISOs significantly compared to my trust rusty 30D. Cheers, Pedro

It simply referrs to the focal length you are using. Doesn't matter if the lens is prime or zoom...a zoom is nothing more than a lens that lets you change the selected focal length without swapping lenses. If I use the 16-35 @ 16mm, then the rule of 600 would logically apply to 16mm, not 35mm.
 
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jrista said:
pedro said:
jrista said:
I would absolutely LOVE a 12-24 f/2.8 L for wide-field astrophotography! Imagine the length of exposures you could get, or at lower ISOs, with a 12mm f/2.8 lens! Ooooh, the bliss! I'd spend the money for it, too...12mm f/2.8 astrophotography...man I'm DROOLIN!! ;D

In terms of exposure time, here is what I figure. Currently, with my 16-35 f/2.8 L, I usually get about 30 seconds at 16mm out of it, at ISO 800 - 1600, for a decent "printable" shot (i.e. a shot that could be printed at native size...13x19 for the 7D...without particularly noticeable startrailing. Rule of 600 would indicate 38 seconds, so I shorten that a bit for printability). For a web-sized shot, I can usually expose for about 40-45 seconds, and often use a higher ISO. With the 12-24 f/2.8 L, I figure I could get 45-50 seconds out of it for printables, and maybe as much as 65-75 seconds for web-sized shots! And that is nothing to say of the wider field of view, which would be nice at times...

@jrista: Did I get that wrong with rule of 600? I thought the calculation 600:lens length refers to its LONG end? So the 16-35 won't give you more than about 16 sec of exposure. Therefore I like the 5D3 which allows me to crank up the ISOs significantly compared to my trust rusty 30D. Cheers, Pedro

It simply referrs to the focal length you are using. Doesn't matter if the lens is prime or zoom...a zoom is nothing more than a lens that lets you change the selected focal length without swapping lenses. If I use the 16-35 @ 16mm, then the rule of 600 would logically apply to 16mm, not 35mm.

@jrista: oh, didn't know that then. great! thanks for the explanation. then I already have my (at least) 16-24 once I purchase the lens. and that's plenty compared to a phantom lens that might surely be sold at twice the price of the 16-35 should it ever reach the shelves...glad to learn this...that gives me at least 35 sec at the wide end then...wow. 8) So taking a picture at let's say ISO 3200 or even 6400 means capturing way more light than at ISO 800 on a 30D...!!!
 
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pedro said:
jrista said:
pedro said:
@jrista: Did I get that wrong with rule of 600? I thought the calculation 600:lens length refers to its LONG end? So the 16-35 won't give you more than about 16 sec of exposure. Therefore I like the 5D3 which allows me to crank up the ISOs significantly compared to my trust rusty 30D. Cheers, Pedro

It simply referrs to the focal length you are using. Doesn't matter if the lens is prime or zoom...a zoom is nothing more than a lens that lets you change the selected focal length without swapping lenses. If I use the 16-35 @ 16mm, then the rule of 600 would logically apply to 16mm, not 35mm.

@jrista: oh, didn't know that then. great! thanks for the explanation. then I already have my (at least) 16-24 once I purchase the lens. and that's plenty compared to a phantom lens that might surely be sold at twice the price of the 16-35 should it ever reach the shelves...glad to learn this...that gives me at least 35 sec at the wide end then...wow. 8) So taking a picture at let's say ISO 3200 or even 6400 means capturing way more light than at ISO 800 on a 30D...!!!

Actually, to get really technical, the rule of 600 really is kind of a bad way to figure out how long you can expose a night sky with digital sensors. You'll find a lot of anecdotes, such as use the "FF effective focal length on APS-C" and whatnot. None of it really applies, since what actually matters is pixel density, which is independent of form factor.

Here is a better way to figure out what you can really handle (for "native resolution" presentation, anyway...you could transform for web sized with a scale factor): Determine the arc degrees per pixel for a given focal length and pixel size.

If we assume a 12mm lens on a FF sensor, that gives us a horizontal FoV of approximately 111°. If we assume we are shooting with a 5D III, that means we have a pixel row of 5760 pixels, or ~52 pixels per degree. The reciprocal of that gives us the number of degrees per pixel, which in this case is 0.0192°/px. To calculate how many seconds it will take a star to traverse one pixel, divide that number by the arc degrees per second a star moves across the sky thanks to the rotation of the earth (360° / (24h * 60m/h * 60s/m) = 360° / 86400s = 0.0042°/s). At 12mm, a 5D III will experience a time on pixels period of 0.0192°/px / 0.0042°/s, or ~4.6s/px.

So, assuming a time on pixels period of 4.6s/px on the 5D III at 12mm, we can figure out how long, in total, we might be able to expose for by determining the number of pixels we are willing to let a star traverse before we assume trailing will be visible. For maximum quality, or the ability to see absolutely zero startrailing at "native resolution", and even offer enough sharpness to enlarge a night sky photo, you wouldn't want a star to affect much more than 4 pixels in a 2x2 block...a 2 pixel pitch. That would mean at 12mm, you could only expose for 9.2 seconds. Thanks to atmospheric effects which causes stars to affect more than the mere 2x2 pixel grid their point light source might affect directly anyway, we can generally assume a larger star trailing pitch. In my experience, 6-9 pixels is easily good enough for native resolution output (and much more than that for web size). Assuming the factor of 9 pixels is valid, that gives us an exposure time of about 42 seconds for a 12mm lens on the 5D III. On the 7D, the same 12mm lens is the FoV equivalent to a 20mm lens on FF, which ultimately gets us to ~3.8s/px, or an exposure time of about 34 seconds for a 12mm lens on the 7D.

If we want to figure out how long to expose for web-sized images, you could make the assumption that the scale factor between native size and the final web size, times the base 9 pixel pitch, divided by two is sufficient to minimize trailing at any size:

Code:
scaledPitch = (dimNative/dimWeb * 9) / 2

I generally like to scale my images to around 900 pixels long size for the web. The ratio between native size and web size is 5760/900, or 6.5x, which when halved leads to a pixel pitch of ~29 pixels. At 12mm on the 5D III, that gives us a maximum possible exposure time of ~ 2min22sec, which still seems too long. To compensate, I assume the scaled pitch is diagonal, so computing for the horizontal or vertical pitch I get (sqrt(diagPitch^2 / 2) = horizPitch; sqrt(29^2/2) = ~20 pixels. That leaves us with a maximum exposure time of ~90 seconds for a 900 pixel web sized image (~5x7" size on the average screen).
 
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booah. quite some math...thanks a lot for your highly engaged post. not that I would "get" it, but I will try to figure that out. must be great to know all that about photography, so 600 rule naked and uncensored seems quite a bit "stoneagish"...hence I am not great in math, it must do 8) but I keep on reflecting your formula. saved it to my notebook to have it with me. Best regards.
 
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You may want to hold your horses on this one.

The more recent 14-24 mm patent actually contained a 14/2.8, a 17/4.0, and 14-18/4-4.7, I don't recall the fourth embodiment just now, it had a zoom factor of 1.2 and was in the 20ish millimeter range. This is not to say 14-24 does not exist on Canon - they are surely trying to find a way to do that and determine whether this would sell enough.

Canon seems to trade corner sharpness for less distortion at their wide angles, this is the reason why they don't attain high drawing capabilities - I'm sort of glad they do when using film cameras. I'm not sure on how they deal with field curvature in their ultrawides.

The question I have is what is the point of 14-24/2.8? I understand 14-24, but I don't understand the F/2.8 part in it - the purpose of F/4.0 is much more clear to me.
 
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Mika said:
The question I have is what is the point of 14-24/2.8? I understand 14-24, but I don't understand the F/2.8 part in it - the purpose of F/4.0 is much more clear to me.

Even with the improved high-iso on the latest camera bodies, I would still say for astro-photography or indoor/outdoor low lighting events.
 
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pwp said:
drjlo said:
Personally, it would be much more useful for me if Canon came up with 16-35 f/2.8 MkIII with sharpness in line with 24-70 II and 70-200 f2.8 II, as well as a real good 35 mm end..

+1....now you're talking!

-PW

Agree 100% I would rather have a 16-35mm Mk III or even better a 16-35mm f/2.8 IS (there is a nikon patent for this that promises superior IQ to the 14-24mm even).

Give us that.
 
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I guess a next update of a 16-35 will be IS. I can see the reason behind that. As videopgraphy is an important medium today. Therefore I'll buy the current version soonish... Less $$$ for us amateurs ;D
 
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Given how the pros and Canon picked the 24-70 II over a competing 24-70 IS, I'm guessing that the same would happen with the 16-35, that it would be a lot sharper but not have IS. Perhaps the IS version would be a 16-35 f/4. That would mirror that all f/4 zooms would have IS, and that wide to normal f/2.8 zooms would not.

I'd prefer a sharper 16-35 II to a 16-35 IS that is comparable in IQ to what exists today.
 
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etg9 said:
The 16-35II is my most used lens by a lot, I too would add to the ranks to be much happier with a 16-35III than a 16-35IS. I don't need this lens to be much wider than it is (although 14-24 is fine). I really want it to have much better sharpness than it currently does.

Convincing words here. That's why I go 16-35 on the 5D3. Have the 10-22 with my old 30D and that was a very fine lens as the crop equivalent to it. Although it is not that fast.
 
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pedro said:
If Canon publish a patent, how much time does it take till anouncement? Generally speaking...Not my lens at the moment...Instead of hunting the "phantom" I will go 16-35 8)
Canon does not publish patents. They submit a application to the patent office, and the patent office approves and publishes it about 2 years later. As often as not, a lens is released before the patent is published. About 1 in 500 patents or less results is a new product release.
 
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Mt Spokane Photography said:
pedro said:
If Canon publish a patent, how much time does it take till anouncement? Generally speaking...Not my lens at the moment...Instead of hunting the "phantom" I will go 16-35 8)
Canon does not publish patents. They submit a application to the patent office, and the patent office approves and publishes it about 2 years later. As often as not, a lens is released before the patent is published. About 1 in 500 patents or less results is a new product release.

Thank you for your explanation. So, no one knows what will happen. They're always good for a surprise.
 
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I've tested the Canon 8-15F4 and the Canon 17-40F4. At the first one I always used the long end and with the second one I used the short end most of the time.

For me it is now clear that I need an objective starting with 14mm and ends at 24mm or 28mm. Less than 14mm is cutting the edges at full frame. For more than 24mm I can use my 24-70.

So I hope a 14-24 or 12-24 will come soon to the dealers.
 
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Harry68 said:
I've tested the Canon 8-15F4 and the Canon 17-40F4. At the first one I always used the long end and with the second one I used the short end most of the time.

For me it is now clear that I need an objective starting with 14mm and ends at 24mm or 28mm. Less than 14mm is cutting the edges at full frame. For more than 24mm I can use my 24-70.

So I hope a 14-24 or 12-24 will come soon to the dealers.
14mm on a fisheye is much wider than 14mm on a rectilinear lens:

14mm Rectilinear:
FF-14mm-14mm.jpg


14mm Fisheye:
FF-14mm.jpg


12mm rectilinear lenses do exist, as in the Sigma 12-24 - and this doesn't have cut the edges on full frame. However, the optical quality isn't up there with the Nikon 14-24:
http://www.lenstip.com/326.11-Lens_review-Sigma_12-24_mm_f_4.5-5.6_II_DG_HSM_Summary.html
 
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