Canon EF 8-15mm f/4L Fisheye - Durability?

[Ruined]

I really like some of the creative opportunities this lens offers if used wisely.

But, I am concerned with the durability and scratch-resistance of the front element when the hood is not attached. Has anyone used this for an extended period of time? How does the front element look over time? How easy to scratch the front element if a branch or other object comes into contact with it? Thanks

 

[procentje20]

I have used this lens for quite a while, and I'm very cautious with it. The front element protrudes a lot, and I'm sure it will get scratched if i hit it on something. That's why I always attach the hood between shots, Or keep it in front of me where I can see whats coming towards the lens.

The hood also comes loose quite easily, which is another concern. It is however not as bad as the 15mm prime, which jumped out of its hood while I was hiking and the lens was in my bag, and it landed not entirely strait back on the hood, which resulted in the aluminium hood scratching against the front element for two hours. Luckily enough that was outside of a crop camera frame, so it was still sell-able.

It takes some getting used to, but the routine of detaching an attaching the hood while you move around becomes natural, and really should not be a reason not to buy this awesome lens.

 

[Random Orbits]

I have used this lens for quite a while, and I'm very cautious with it. The front element protrudes a lot, and I'm sure it will get scratched if i hit it on something. That's why I always attach the hood between shots, Or keep it in front of me where I can see whats coming towards the lens.

The hood also comes loose quite easily, which is another concern. It is however not as bad as the 15mm prime, which jumped out of its hood while I was hiking and the lens was in my bag, and it landed not entirely strait back on the hood, which resulted in the aluminium hood scratching against the front element for two hours. Luckily enough that was outside of a crop camera frame, so it was still sell-able.

It takes some getting used to, but the routine of detaching an attaching the hood while you move around becomes natural, and really should not be a reason not to buy this awesome lens.

The lens cap and hood are two pieces but I take both off at the same time by twisting off the hood. I don't bother with leaving the hood on only because it can interfere when you want a circular image, and the interface between the cap and hood is not very secure and I'd rather not fumble around clipping the cap to the hood in the field.

 

[Ruined]

I am aware of the clumsy cap/hood interface complaints... Was hoping perhaps one purchased in 2014 would have improved manufacturing tolerances to make this occurrence less likely.

When cleaning the lens, does it clean easy (like a B+W XS-Pro Nano filter?) or does it require polishing like a normal lens. I am trying to figure out if Canon went out of their way to put on some durable anti-scratch, easy clean coatings on this lens which I am hoping they did given how exposed the element is.

 

[Loswr]

I am trying to figure out if Canon went out of their way to put on some durable anti-scratch, easy clean coatings on this lens which I am hoping they did given how exposed the element is.

It has the fluorine coating like all the newer lenses (70-300L, MkII superteles, 24-70 II and f/4 IS, etc.). The coating helps with fingerprint/oil resistance and makes cleaning easier. FWIW, fluorine is used as an anti-graffiti treatment in urban settings.

If you think that's an exposed front element, try the TS-E 17mm...

 

[Random Orbits]

I am aware of the clumsy cap/hood interface complaints... Was hoping perhaps one purchased in 2014 would have improved manufacturing tolerances to make this occurrence less likely.

When cleaning the lens, does it clean easy (like a B+W XS-Pro Nano filter?) or does it require polishing like a normal lens. I am trying to figure out if Canon went out of their way to put on some durable anti-scratch, easy clean coatings on this lens which I am hoping they did given how exposed the element is.

It cleans easily. It's usually capped, so it doesn't tend to get that dirty, but a microfiber cloth or a lens pen to take off the smudges and a rocket blower/brush to blow off the dust/lens pen dust is all it really needs most of the time. I have more problems with dust than smudges anyway, and a blower works fine. With the fisheyes, you have to be a bit more concerned about lens surface dirt/contaminents because it can show up in the image if you're not careful.

 

[Random Orbits]

...

If you think that's an exposed front element, try the TS-E 17mm...

Which is why I tend to treat the 8-15 and TS-E 17 the same way, trying to keep the cap on most of the time. That and the fact that the 17's cap is even larger and less comfortable in a pocket.

If I remember correctly, the 14L II has a similar cap arrangement as the 8-15's clipping to the petal hood. My 14's hood resides in the closet somewhere... I use a lenscoat instead.

 

[Hjalmarg1]

I really like some of the creative opportunities this lens offers if used wisely.

But, I am concerned with the durability and scratch-resistance of the front element when the hood is not attached. Has anyone used this for an extended period of time? How does the front element look over time? How easy to scratch the front element if a branch or other object comes into contact with it? Thanks

If you don't want to spend the big money on the 8-12mm f4L, just try a cheaper version like the very goof 15mm f2.8, still available used on eBay.

 

[GMCPhotographics]

It's as durable as you are careful with it. If you bounce it off a concrete floor...it's going to mark and chip. But objective lenses are far more durable than people give them credit for and usually far more durable than the expensive but crappy filter people buy to protect their objective lens.

 

[infared]

I am trying to figure out if Canon went out of their way to put on some durable anti-scratch, easy clean coatings on this lens which I am hoping they did given how exposed the element is.

It has the fluorine coating like all the newer lenses (70-300L, MkII superteles, 24-70 II and f/4 IS, etc.). The coating helps with fingerprint/oil resistance and makes cleaning easier. FWIW, fluorine is used as an anti-graffiti treatment in urban settings.

If you think that's an exposed front element, try the TS-E 17mm...

LOL! I have the 17mm TSE and that is exactly what I was thinking as I read this post! Have not used the 8-15mm, although I am intrigued with it. (I own the discontinued Canon 15mm f/2.8 Fisheye which I love and is satifactory for my needs. It's also a LOT less expensive, smaller and lighter)...How can any lens be more exposed than the 17mm! I think with both the 17mm and the 8-15mm, we need to slow down a little and take some exta care so that we do not damage them. Consistent, preventive technique is a must when using them. I use a blower, then a brush and then a lens pen to clean mine after use. The lens cap on my fisheye is very tentative so I save the big fat rubber band off a head of broccoli and wrapped it around the lens and cap to keep it in place when not in use. Simple but effective! Some simple steps, slowing down and some extra care is needed with all of these lenses but it preserves their ability to perform at 100% and it also helps with the resale value! :
I am an advocate of top-quality, multi-coated, clear filters on all my glass, but obviously that does not apply here.

 

[hendrik-sg]

Lens cap and shade are 2 pieces, where the cap is cliped on the shade. As generalle known this Connection tends to release unwanted, in the bag for example.

I blocked this release by thooth sticks, which works perfecty. I keep the lens closed, exept when effectivly in use, and remove the shade with the cap on.

If one does not want to see the lens anytime later, i would bond the two parts together

 

[Khalai]

Video not for the fainthearted, but you can clearly see that even plastic fantastic 50mm lens can endure quite a lot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzOLbMPe0u8

 

[Ruined]

It's as durable as you are careful with it. If you bounce it off a concrete floor...it's going to mark and chip. But objective lenses are far more durable than people give them credit for and usually far more durable than the expensive but crappy filter people buy to protect their objective lens.

I am more talking about minor potential mishaps like cap coming loose and plastic brushing up against a lens, or photographic a plant and accidentally bumping into a twig (as things are closer than they appear). Not major damage scenarios. Lenses in these minor contacts can scratch, or not, depending on how durable the anti-scratch coating is.