Canon EOS R firmware 1.4.0 now available for download

Version 1.3 for the RP is also buried in that site. It was a little difficult for this English only speaker, but I managed to work my way through. All I need is a moving subject now. :)
I downloaded the fir update for the RP and the number comes up EOSRP0130.FIR. Do you know if this is correct as the instructions for installing implies there is only 3 digits (XXX) for the version number?
 
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Already installed on my EOS R and eye AF improvement is clearly noticeable, faster and more accurate even in low light conditions, it missed some tests shots at 1.2 using the 50mm RF 1.2, focusing my eyelashes instead of the eyes, really just a few from more than 30 test shots.
 
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This man makes a good point, that the eye AF matters less than people think, whether Sony or Canon. I realized way back last winter that eye AF wasn't of huge importance, because the depth of field typically appropriate means the face tracking can be near equal with eye tracking.

 
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This man makes a good point, that the eye AF matters less than people think, whether Sony or Canon. I realized way back last winter that eye AF wasn't of huge importance, because the depth of field typically appropriate means the face tracking can be near equal with eye tracking.


I have to disagree, if I have a lens like the RF 50mm 1.2, there will be occasions that I would want to shoot it at 1.2/1.4/1.8 and not 7 (that is why I paid for it), previously, to nail the eye, you had to take headshots as with a medium distance it would only do face tracking and it was super slow.

Checking the results on camera or with the evf will not tell you if it is perfectly in focus, for that you have to shoot tethered and depending on the location you may not have that option I have taken thousands of shots with the EOS R and I can tell you that on super bright apertures, the face tracking sucks and I had to rely 99% on single point af.
 
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I have to disagree, if I have a lens like the RF 50mm 1.2, there will be occasions that I would want to shoot it at 1.2/1.4/1.8 and not 7 (that is why I paid for it), previously, to nail the eye, you had to take headshots as with a medium distance it would only do face tracking and it was super slow.

Checking the results on camera or with the evf will not tell you if it is perfectly in focus, for that you have to shoot tethered and depending on the location you may not have that option I have taken thousands of shots with the EOS R and I can tell you that on super bright apertures, the face tracking sucks and I had to rely 99% on single point af.
True. I cannot count the number of times, when using the 5D Mark III, that a photo looked sharp on the LCD, but then wasn't sharp at all (eye front focus) when I see it on my computer. That was with f/2.8L lenses (mostly). At f/1.2, eye-AF becomes very important. I'll shoot at f/1.2 as often as I can or think I need to... even if it means adding an ND filter to get to 1/8000 sec or below shutter speed. The background separation I personally want is found there.
 
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I just downloaded 1.4 from Aust. and installed it on my R. It's nighttime here in CA so not much to try it on but tried on some stationary objects and it stuck like glue to them as I moved the camera around. We'll see what happens with some birdies tomorrow!
 
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It’s just a massive upgrade for me. I wouldn’t have expected it to be this good in low tungsten light, but even with the kids it sticks like glue. And through my wife’s glasses also. I can’t wait to go out and track some stuff today. Things like my son drinking from his cup and it just nails the eye past the bottom of the cup. It’s very quick to acquire focus and it doesn’t let go. And the precision and smoothness when using touch’n drag now means I can stop using the directional Keyes for precise placement.
 
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People use it for macro shots, I think. So the whole subject can be in focus.

Of course I'm familiar with the feature intention. Though the question was about final result. If RP does a set of images like after panorama shooting for further processing it's OK because it saves some coins after 3rd-party software. But if it composes final image in the camera, it will be poor result. I had some experiense to make focus stacking for tiny objects, then stitched images in a dedicated software. The result was not so good even with three different options to stack. I wondered why and asked my buddy who's a serious insect macro photographer. He answered if you want to have perfect result you should use hands and masks.
 
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