Canon R5 sharpness with 100-400 ii and buffer issues

adigoks

EOS 750D
Jul 12, 2020
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The problem I have is that I didn't change my technique between the 5DIII and this one, and I was already at 1/3200. With the 5DIII I was able to get tack sharp images with speeds way lower than this. Maybe you're right and high MP count is not as good as I thought...
i suggest you to rent R6 while you waiting your R5 back. it has the same AF system & less demanding sensor which i think would be more suitable for you. if you want to getting used to high MP camera i suggest you to rent 90D instead.
 
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Hopefully the buffer and sharpness issues get fixed. When you get the camera back I would give it a good test at home with a still subject, a tripod, 10 sec self timer and Manual Focus. Then try this same test on another camera body if you have one and with the same lens, then compare the results and see if there is any big differences in sharpness, and if you want to you can resize the R5 image to the same size as the older camera and then compare the results.
Also if you have any UV filters on your lens I would remove it.
 
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Hello everyone!
First of all, english is not my first language and I apologize for any mistake.
I've been doing bird photography for the last 10-12 years but I'm getting somewhat desperate with my new R5 these days... I got some serious buffer issues and the image sharpness is really bad compared to my old 5Dmkiii.

First, the buffer issue : whenever I do burst shots, my buffer starts around 40-45 pics available and after the first 3-4 shots it drops down to 20 before I can take maybe 10-12 shots if I'm lucky. This could be tolerable, but the buffer takes up to 90 seconds (timed it) to get transferred to the CFExpress card (Sandisk) and even when I'm up to around 13-15 shots I can only take one shot before it goes down to 0 again! I've tried this with multiple CFExpress cards, SD cards (300mbps) and the result is always the same. I shoot raw and save on a single card. The only time the problem seems to be somewhat less present is when I shoot without a lens and with the cap on and it seems to be worse when I continuously need to focus on my subjects. Needless to say, I missed a lot of shots this way.

As if this wasn't enough, picture quality with my 100-400 ii, which was super sharp on my 5Dmkiii, is really bad or at least hit or miss with mostly misses. I'll include pictures below to illustrate what I mean (100% crop). I'm also using the Canon TC1.4x iii, but was also using it before without any problem on my old camera, getting super sharp shots.
Yesterday I saw a Boreal owl (quite rare where I live), and it flew towards me before landing no more than 10 feet from me (was not baiting). With my 5Dmkiii I would have nailed that shot super sharp since it was really an easy shot. When I looked at my pictures I was really frustrated with the results since they were really not sharp at all. I tried using servo AF and one-shot AF, animal eye dectection AF, spot AF and got mostly the same results (RAW, IBIS on, ISO AUTO (2000), f/8, 1/800s to 1/1600s). Attached below is one of many "missed" shots and one of the few where the feathers are a bit sharper (less than 5% of the files). I also added a picture of a duck in a different setting, but again with the same softness problem. I was wondering if the use of the 1.6x-cropped frame mode sometimes could be the culprit, but even when using full frame I get this problem.

Stores are closed right now where I live, but I'll send the body to Canon to fix the buffer issue when they open back. However, I'm curious to see if anyone else had these problems. I'm also worried that even if they fix the buffer issues, I'll still end up taking pictures that are not sharp.

View attachment 195614
(560mm, f/8, 1/1000s, ISO 2500)
View attachment 195616
(560mm, f/8, 1/800s, ISO 2000)
View attachment 195615
(560mm, f/9, 1/3200s, ISO 1600)
I have serious sharpness issues with shots that look like yours. I sent my RF100-500 back to Canon. They now want the R5 body to "fine tune" them together. I am very dubious about this and so far have not sent my R5 back. Very troubling.
 
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I have serious sharpness issues with shots that look like yours. I sent my RF100-500 back to Canon. They now want the R5 body to "fine tune" them together. I am very dubious about this and so far have not sent my R5 back. Very troubling.
I thought the advantage of Mirrorless was no need for Microadjustment? Or I am thinking of the wrong thing?
 
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So I got my lens back after 4 weeks. Put it on a tripod, used single shot. Awful, soft images. RF70-200 hand held for the same shot is sharp.
I told canon and now they have sent me a fedex label for me to send in the R5 and RF100-500.
I have no faith and wonder how long I will be without my camera and lens this time.
At this point I wish I had not traded up from my 5DIV yet. I guess this may be my final lesson about being an early adopter.
PS - my RF lens came back with two pages from the 5D manual about lens settings!
 
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Aug 27, 2019
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So I got my lens back after 4 weeks. Put it on a tripod, used single shot. Awful, soft images. RF70-200 hand held for the same shot is sharp.
I told canon and now they have sent me a fedex label for me to send in the R5 and RF100-500.
I have no faith and wonder how long I will be without my camera and lens this time.
At this point I wish I had not traded up from my 5DIV yet. I guess this may be my final lesson about being an early adopter.
PS - my RF lens came back with two pages from the 5D manual about lens settings!
I am interested in what 2 pages Canon sent you, can you take a shot of them and post em?
 
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Aug 27, 2019
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The "Advanced" manual with the R5 is just awful, a few screenshot with minimal explanation.

The 5D4 manual was great, but the 1DX manual was super detailed and explanatory.

For such an advanced camera to canon expect everyone to have a crystal ball at home?...
I found the 920 pages of the R5 Manual to be pretty useful a couple of times and do not really see a lot missing when compared to the 662 page 5D4 manual.

Looks like Canon has been using the same technical writer for sometime now.

5D

Shutter.png

R5

Shutter_2.png

What do you feel is missing from the manual?
 
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Cog

Dec 6, 2013
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I have the exact same issues and have was about to post my own thread on this.

I still have my 5D4 and have it set up identical to my R5. The images on the 5D4 are razor sharp but the R5 are just awful.

Have Canon come back to you?
I didn't find a big difference in IQ between 5Dm4 and R5 with a 100-400 II, but R5 has a much better AF plus many other features of a mirrorless camera. So my good old 5Dm4 was sold to a happy new owner.

Apart from problems with a focusing technique, using a converter on close-ups is not justified. It will make the picture a bit softer and increase ISO in low light. The second owl image would be much better (sharper and less noisy) if shot at 400mm without a converter with a lower ISO and then cropped.

I've never used back button focusing, BTW. For some reason, I just can't make it work in terms of brain+fingers coordination. :)
 
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Aug 27, 2019
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I’m a new R5 user, I have just moved away from BBF, what the point of BBF if you are using face/eye detect + tracking?
Particularly in the heat of the moment, a bird jumps up and you get one chance for a single frame.
The auto focus is so good and so fast, it just changes everything for me regarding my camera workflow.
Single button BBF does not really help in that use case, however having a back button for face\eye detect and a button for single point is really useful when you want full control of the point of focus.

I still have the shutter button mapped for focus\metering and shutter release I just use the back buttons to override to the type of focus I want.
 
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AlanF

Desperately seeking birds
CR Pro
Aug 16, 2012
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I’m a new R5 user, I have just moved away from BBF, what the point of BBF if you are using face/eye detect + tracking?
Particularly in the heat of the moment, a bird jumps up and you get one chance for a single frame.
The auto focus is so good and so fast, it just changes everything for me regarding my camera workflow.
To reinforce Ramage, eyeAF doesn't work in every situation, like when the bird is surrounded by AF distractions or the focus gets stuck on the background etc, then you need to switch from eyeAF to point focus. So lots of us here use 2 button BBF and press the appropriate BB for the type of focus. If you are just doing BIF, then you could get away without BBF.
 
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koenkooi

CR Pro
Feb 25, 2015
3,614
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I’m a new R5 user, I have just moved away from BBF, what the point of BBF if you are using face/eye detect + tracking?
Particularly in the heat of the moment, a bird jumps up and you get one chance for a single frame.
The auto focus is so good and so fast, it just changes everything for me regarding my camera workflow.
I also moved away from BBF, but on the R5 I set one button to enable single-point AF to get the camera back on track. Last weekend I tried doing BIF with the RF100-500 and was reasonably successful:

20210417 1044 12 Nederland Amersfoort - Canon EOS R5 - RF100-500mm F4.5-7.1 L IS USM at 500 m...jpeg
Most of the time the R5 would track the bee, but it would get confused when it flew in between the cherry blossoms. Pressing the BBF to use small single point would get the focus back to MFD where it needs to be.

The 180L allowed me to get a bit closer, but this really needs the dual nano-USM like the RF100-500 has. Slow bumblebee at these distances gives the AF motors a good workout! The 100L was a bit faster to focus, but waaaaay to short a focal length. I hope the RF100L will get similar AF speeds as the RF100-500 does. And hope for a long-ish 1:1 macro in the 200mm F/4 range with 5 blades triple nano-USM :)
 
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