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I can definitely see the red tones on the 5d3 in your hair in the first sample, but I have to say that I find the 5d3's grass sample to look far better on my calibrated IPS monitor. The red of the ball is far better and the photo looks to have more dynamic range. I can see the green is much more saturated, but it also looks far more neutral than the 5d2's shot, which looks to be white balanced a little toward the yellows... which is obviously more pleasing to most people, but isn't the neutral it should be.
I'm not sure color can be questioned this specifically right now... Lightroom's support for the 5d3 isn't even officially released. Quick question though... are you using Lightroom's camera profiles for your pictures or the generic Adobe profile? Because this makes a HUGE difference in color.
I'm not sure color can be questioned this specifically right now... Lightroom's support for the 5d3 isn't even officially released. Quick question though... are you using Lightroom's camera profiles for your pictures or the generic Adobe profile? Because this makes a HUGE difference in color.
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mboss13
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thanks for the email. Trying to make it work in lightroom. Thanks to all that have tried to help me fix this. The issue I have with it is that you can see those red tones in the hair already in the camera. No lightroom necessary to see the difference. We always shoot manual and raw. I think in the outdoor shot you can see the colors are much more vibrant from the Mark ii, which to my taste and taste of our clients is better. I'd hate to jeoperdize our business over wanting to shoot with the newest coolest camera.
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Ryant
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I think you are splitting hairs. You can't tell me your clients care about this slight change, for the better in my opinion. What I do know is your clients will thank you when your photos are more in focus which the 5d 3 will do. You can't tell me that you take pictures and print them and get perfect real to life color with no editing. That just does not happen. If you send your photos to a print shop them do tons of color changing to make the photos print as close to what is desired.
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Ryant said:
+1. Unless your client is a hair dye company and your shooting for their product box cover photo, I really doubt a client would notice, much less care.
Anyway, it looks like a slight WB change in the tint. Just add a touch more green to the WB in camera with the little graph thing and it might match up a little better.
And whoever mentioned that adobe is still in beta... +10 to you. Don't jump to conclusions before the camera is even officially supported in a released program.
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mboss13 said:Here are two more shots, outdoor. Taken raw and processed in lightroom. Same white balance card was used.
Well if you are comparing in LR then you are as much comparing Adobe's reverse engineering of a color profile for each camera as anything else, not that the color filters might make some have more trouble distinguishing some colors from other and lead it to having to make tint choice, but that wouldn't be such large changes as that although it might make it trickier or easier to get a larger number of colors right at once. But anyway it's hard to say what causes it, most of it might just be with Adobe's choice for each. Flip to differen Adobe profiles for a given cam and it'll shift all over. It's a tricky business especially since things can change with different scene lighting temperature, etc.
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I read a post recently where shane hurlbutt was adjusting his Mkii to match each other. Meaning the colors from camera to camera don't exactly line up. He used the wb shift :http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2010/03/color-correction-put-your-best-foot-forward/
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5d3 is way better for color... I always use the ColorChecker Passport to calibrate my colors, and it corrects waay less than with the 5d2.
Buy yourself one of those and this will never be an issue.
To me the first picture looked too green, but I'm colorblind so. (one of the reasons why I use the CC)
But, yeah, as others have said, the 5d3 handles red's much better and overall I find the colors in much less need of correction, although not perfect either.
Buy yourself one of those and this will never be an issue.
To me the first picture looked too green, but I'm colorblind so. (one of the reasons why I use the CC)
But, yeah, as others have said, the 5d3 handles red's much better and overall I find the colors in much less need of correction, although not perfect either.
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PhilDrinkwater
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The problem here is that you're not quite understanding what part of the process of RAW development (I think these were shot RAW?) is down to Adobe and what part of the process is down to Canon. Loads of people don't quite understand and think it's down to the camera 
Each camera has a profile assigned to it in LR. The way colours are processed is actually down to Adobe (or Phase one etc...) NOT Canon. Canon set the white balance - that's their part of the equation. The WB algorithm has changed between the two cameras, but you say you set the WB using a grey card so that takes that out of the equation. The sensor does make a difference to the profiled colours, but much less than the profile itself.
I calibrate my cameras using a colour checker passport. The LR profile for 5d2 is MASSIVELY out. The LR profile for the 5d3 is MUCH closer to real. So, it's the 5d2 profile which is wrong and the 5d3 profile which is right.
However, you like the look of the 5d2 profile.
If you want to get the same result as the previous camera, I'd recommend getting a colour checker passport, using the adobe DNG editor to make a profile from the CCP file and then moving some of the points around until you get the colours that you want. Or you can use the LR HSL settings to change the colours to something closer to what you want, but that will provide a less accurate result.
If I've misunderstand any part of what you're doing, apologies
Each camera has a profile assigned to it in LR. The way colours are processed is actually down to Adobe (or Phase one etc...) NOT Canon. Canon set the white balance - that's their part of the equation. The WB algorithm has changed between the two cameras, but you say you set the WB using a grey card so that takes that out of the equation. The sensor does make a difference to the profiled colours, but much less than the profile itself.
I calibrate my cameras using a colour checker passport. The LR profile for 5d2 is MASSIVELY out. The LR profile for the 5d3 is MUCH closer to real. So, it's the 5d2 profile which is wrong and the 5d3 profile which is right.
However, you like the look of the 5d2 profile.
If you want to get the same result as the previous camera, I'd recommend getting a colour checker passport, using the adobe DNG editor to make a profile from the CCP file and then moving some of the points around until you get the colours that you want. Or you can use the LR HSL settings to change the colours to something closer to what you want, but that will provide a less accurate result.
If I've misunderstand any part of what you're doing, apologies
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PhilDrinkwater
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As a final thought, but probably not that relevant to you - you can specify that the camera change it's white balance IN CAMERA. You can push it towards yellow, blue, magenta or green.
(or at least you could on the 5d2 - I suspect that option still exists on the 5d3)
(or at least you could on the 5d2 - I suspect that option still exists on the 5d3)
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