Hopefully a simple question. Can I use my camera as a advanced light meter for a medium format film camera? I could just get a light meter, but if I could see in advance exactly ( or very close ) what the image will look like, I would prefer that.
digital camera as light meter
- Thread starter Dark Reality
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The main reason I would prefer a camera used just for metering, is I sometimes go against what my in-camera meter says, to get my desired result.
If this way works, it would literally be as easy as replacing camera A, with camera B. And saving a lot of film too.
Also, what is the crop factor for say, a full frame vs mf. (like 1.6x , is for crop and full frame)
If this way works, it would literally be as easy as replacing camera A, with camera B. And saving a lot of film too.
Also, what is the crop factor for say, a full frame vs mf. (like 1.6x , is for crop and full frame)
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Are you looking for an incident reading or reflected reading? Incident is you put the meter between the subject and the light source(s), reflected is you point the meter are your subject. So your normal camera with a light meter built in is generally going to be reading the reflected light, however it's also calibrated more specifically for that sensor/electronics. If you want an incident reading, you probably should get a dedicated light meter.
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Drizzt321 said:
Neither, I WANT a digital MF camera. But that's not going to happen. But if the image on my lcd of my digital camera can be reproduced with the MF film camera with the same settings, I see no need for a light meter, which can only tell you what IT thinks is correct. ( I understand some differences will be there, depth of field, FOV, etc.. )
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Dark Reality said:
I think the biggest thing would be the ISO, since actual effective digital ISO levels actually vary a bit from the stated ISO levels often. So the shutter/aperture listed will likely be in the ballpark, but not necessarily exactly what your MF camera would need to be set to. If it's not too expensive, you can try doing a series of +/-Ev on your DSLR and compare against the actual exposure for that subject on your MF film. Plus you have the different metering modes. Spot, center-weighted average, partial, evaluative. So, you may need to experiment some to find the one you like best, or just simply use spot to get the most specific metering mode on a very specific part of the image.
So, my guess it'd take a bit of experimentation to get exactly what you want, but it certainly can be done. Just make sure you record everything until you figure out the exposure correction factory (e.g. if your DSLR shows f/5.6 @1/500 ISO 400, by experience you've found you need either 1/1000, or f/5.0 to get a correct exposure on your MF film with film of ISO 400).
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Dark Reality said:
Yes, you can use the digital camera as a light meter and I've heard people using it for just that purpose. In fact, a friend uses his 5D2 to meter for his medium format 617 film camera. It may be a bit more trial and error at first adjusting for the appropriate film characteristics to get the exposure you are looking for. He was using Velvia 50 & 100, which can be a bit more sensitive. Also remember the reciprocity failure of film for long exposures, which the digital camera does not allow for.
This depends on your camera. Medium format cameras for film come in many form factors, eg 6x4.5, 6x7, etc.Dark Reality said:
I found this reference useful a while ago: www.viewcamera.com/images/focalchart.gif
It gives the corresponding 35mm (or full frame) focal length equivalent for different medium and large format cameras, and you can determine the "crop" factor from that.
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Yes, you can use your DSLR as a light meter, transferring settings from one camera to another. I own a Widelux 1500 medium format panoramic camera, and do this all the time with great results. My exposures on Fuji Velvia are dead on are dead on. When i first started i thought there would be some adjustment factor, but I had no issues.
I did this because I did not want to carry a separate meter, or pay for it, and I was going to have a DSLR with me anyway. Now that I think about this, I started with film doing this with a Nikon D90 about 15 years ago. The Widelux does not get much action as of late, but I still like to use it from time to time.
Obviously flash exposures are not gong to work this way.
I did this because I did not want to carry a separate meter, or pay for it, and I was going to have a DSLR with me anyway. Now that I think about this, I started with film doing this with a Nikon D90 about 15 years ago. The Widelux does not get much action as of late, but I still like to use it from time to time.
Obviously flash exposures are not gong to work this way.
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The metering will not be a precision reading, or advanced, as you mentioned. Light is lost in the lens, as much as 1/4 - 1/2 stop just due to the glass in the lens.
This does not matter to the camera, it meters the light actually making it thru the lens and sets the exposure accordingly. However, setting a different camera with a different lens to the same settings will not be as accurate as a light meter, but will likely be close enough if the lens is similar.
I've compared my DSLR's to my light meter, and they usually are within 0.2 stops.
This does not matter to the camera, it meters the light actually making it thru the lens and sets the exposure accordingly. However, setting a different camera with a different lens to the same settings will not be as accurate as a light meter, but will likely be close enough if the lens is similar.
I've compared my DSLR's to my light meter, and they usually are within 0.2 stops.
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