Do you usually shoot your lenses wide open?
- Thread starter J.R.
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I shoot wide open my 24-70 and 70-200 pretty much always.
On my fisheye and landscape zoom, I go f/8 or f/11 to get everything in focus, as that's usually what you're looking for.
On primes, I usually stop down one stop, to up the sharpness a bit.
The only time I routinely prefer stop down is when doing flash photography or when using an extender.
On my fisheye and landscape zoom, I go f/8 or f/11 to get everything in focus, as that's usually what you're looking for.
On primes, I usually stop down one stop, to up the sharpness a bit.
The only time I routinely prefer stop down is when doing flash photography or when using an extender.
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It depends on the type of Photography.
Underwater Imaging I generally work WA at f/8 or f/11, Macro at f/22
On wildlife it depends on the Lens in use & what I'm trying to achieve, 200f/2, 300f/2.8 & 600f/4, mostly wide Open.
The 200-400 almost always wide open either f/4 or f/5.6.
Underwater Imaging I generally work WA at f/8 or f/11, Macro at f/22
On wildlife it depends on the Lens in use & what I'm trying to achieve, 200f/2, 300f/2.8 & 600f/4, mostly wide Open.
The 200-400 almost always wide open either f/4 or f/5.6.
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On my Leicas... oh hell yes! I strive for wide open. The Leica M beats circles around Canon EOS focusing on any sort of lens from 90mm down to whatever (12mm?). On Canon....I try to stop down about 2/3 stop, just get things sharp. The Leica lenses.... 28, 35, 50, 75, 90mm Summicrons are all sharp as a razor at f/2.0
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Dylan777 said:
With the 85 f/1.8 I was shooting at 5.6 over the weekend... it is because I was shooting my daughter with her grandfather and they weren't on the same plane... so as always... just depends on the shot. Do I normally hover around 1.8... yep.
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not much except my 100mm F2.8 USM macro and the 55-250. For other primes, it's mostly about F2.2 to F11 depending on how much DOF I need.
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Thanks for the replies.
I'm a hobby shooter and most of my shooting for the past one and a half year was with the 24-105 f/4, 70-200 f/4 and the 100-400 at f/5.6. Personally, I found these lenses wide open (at f/4 and f/5.6) to give me all the DOF I needed and probably more which got me into getting the faster lenses.
The 24-70 II was purchased earlier this year and it has been used between f/2.8 to f/5.6 but more often than not, wide open.
The 50mm f/1.4 prime is used mostly indoors in low light where I need the lens faster than f/2.8 - so again wide open or f/2.2.
The 135L is used when I'm taking pictures of my kids / in low light and/or while shooting random sports - so mostly at f/2 to give me great bokeh and fast shutter speed.
The only lens I use mostly stopped down is the 100mm macro which I found I use mostly at f/11 or smaller.
The 16-35 II and the 70-200 II were acquired just this past week so things may change yet
I'm a hobby shooter and most of my shooting for the past one and a half year was with the 24-105 f/4, 70-200 f/4 and the 100-400 at f/5.6. Personally, I found these lenses wide open (at f/4 and f/5.6) to give me all the DOF I needed and probably more which got me into getting the faster lenses.
The 24-70 II was purchased earlier this year and it has been used between f/2.8 to f/5.6 but more often than not, wide open.
The 50mm f/1.4 prime is used mostly indoors in low light where I need the lens faster than f/2.8 - so again wide open or f/2.2.
The 135L is used when I'm taking pictures of my kids / in low light and/or while shooting random sports - so mostly at f/2 to give me great bokeh and fast shutter speed.
The only lens I use mostly stopped down is the 100mm macro which I found I use mostly at f/11 or smaller.
The 16-35 II and the 70-200 II were acquired just this past week so things may change yet
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as Nuero said, i shoot at whatever aperture that gives me the required depth of field that the situation calls for.
that being said, i almost never shoot "wide open" as i prefer to stop down at least 2/3rds+ stops to maximize sharpness when i'm shooting for that "bokeh look".
that being said, i almost never shoot "wide open" as i prefer to stop down at least 2/3rds+ stops to maximize sharpness when i'm shooting for that "bokeh look".
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Depends on lens and subject, but to generalize:
16-35 2.8L II .... usually between 5.6 and 16. Sometimes 22 for DOF, sometimes 2.8 in really low light
24- 105 .... usuall f/4 to 5.6. Occasionally 16-22 for landscape deep DOF
28 2.8 IS .... usually 2.8 - 4
40 2.8 .... hardly ever use it
50 1.4 usually f/2 ... sometimes 5.6 - 11 for incredible sharpness
70-200 2.8 IS II .... usually 2.8. Occasionally 4- 5.6 for easier in focus video
16-35 2.8L II .... usually between 5.6 and 16. Sometimes 22 for DOF, sometimes 2.8 in really low light
24- 105 .... usuall f/4 to 5.6. Occasionally 16-22 for landscape deep DOF
28 2.8 IS .... usually 2.8 - 4
40 2.8 .... hardly ever use it
50 1.4 usually f/2 ... sometimes 5.6 - 11 for incredible sharpness
70-200 2.8 IS II .... usually 2.8. Occasionally 4- 5.6 for easier in focus video
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It depends.
I normally use a 24-70 II. I shoot at f/2.8 90% of the time. The times I stop down is when I don't want such a shallow depth of field and when the light is too much to get a nice picture.
I normally use a 24-70 II. I shoot at f/2.8 90% of the time. The times I stop down is when I don't want such a shallow depth of field and when the light is too much to get a nice picture.
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Hi - I shoot mostly landscapes, cityscapes and still lifes and the aperture I use depends on many factors and on the lens I use:
¤ at night I mostly use really fast glass (24LII/1.4, 35/2.0IS and 85LII/1.2) at their widest aperture in order to prevent motion blur and limit ISOs. That's very handy in the many cases I can't set-up a tripod (in museums, on the streets, etc...), and I usually work around the "issue" of shallow DoF by using the most appropriate focal length and doing multi exposures (if I really need a long DoF that is).
¤ in broad daylight and/or when I can use a tripod, I use a wider selection of lenses from the 8-15L/4 to the 70-300L/3.5-5.6IS, which I usually stop down by one to three stops in order to optimize sharpness. If I need a better subject isolation then I often open the lens to its widest aperture. For landscape I usually stop down further in order to increase the DoF but I avoid going beyond f/13 to prevent the loss of sharpness due to diffraction.
¤ at night I mostly use really fast glass (24LII/1.4, 35/2.0IS and 85LII/1.2) at their widest aperture in order to prevent motion blur and limit ISOs. That's very handy in the many cases I can't set-up a tripod (in museums, on the streets, etc...), and I usually work around the "issue" of shallow DoF by using the most appropriate focal length and doing multi exposures (if I really need a long DoF that is).
¤ in broad daylight and/or when I can use a tripod, I use a wider selection of lenses from the 8-15L/4 to the 70-300L/3.5-5.6IS, which I usually stop down by one to three stops in order to optimize sharpness. If I need a better subject isolation then I often open the lens to its widest aperture. For landscape I usually stop down further in order to increase the DoF but I avoid going beyond f/13 to prevent the loss of sharpness due to diffraction.
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No, because it rarely gives me the dof that I require. For the landscape panoramic shots I'm always at f8 to f11. Don't want to go smaller than f11 due to resolution drop off.
When using faster lenses and wanting to isolate the subject I'd only be fully open if a reasonable distance from subject. If very close then even f4 gives a very shallow DoF depending on focal length. I suppose the lenses that would get used most by myself at a wider aperture are faster wide angles where even close to the subject you've got reasonable dof at 2.8.
Speaking from a personal point of view I see a lot of ultra shallow depth of field pictures that would have been better if they had a little deeper plane of focus.
When using faster lenses and wanting to isolate the subject I'd only be fully open if a reasonable distance from subject. If very close then even f4 gives a very shallow DoF depending on focal length. I suppose the lenses that would get used most by myself at a wider aperture are faster wide angles where even close to the subject you've got reasonable dof at 2.8.
Speaking from a personal point of view I see a lot of ultra shallow depth of field pictures that would have been better if they had a little deeper plane of focus.
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I shoot wedding,and I always shoot wide open .
Canon 24-70 F/2.8 USM Mark I at F/2.8
Canon 35mm F/1.4 USM at F/1.4
Canon 20mm F/2.8 USM at F/2.8
Canon 70-200mm F/2.8 IS USM MarkII at F/2.8
Canon 24-70 F/2.8 USM Mark I at F/2.8
Canon 35mm F/1.4 USM at F/1.4
Canon 20mm F/2.8 USM at F/2.8
Canon 70-200mm F/2.8 IS USM MarkII at F/2.8
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40 2.8 - usually 2.8-5.6
60 2.8 - 2.8-11
200 2.8 L II - 3.2-5.6, with 1.4 extender - 5.0-7.1
EF-M 22/2 - 2.0-4.0
EF-M 18-55 IS STM - 5.6-8.0
If I want to shot wide open usually 1/3 stop down is good for even for high quality primes.
60 2.8 - 2.8-11
200 2.8 L II - 3.2-5.6, with 1.4 extender - 5.0-7.1
EF-M 22/2 - 2.0-4.0
EF-M 18-55 IS STM - 5.6-8.0
If I want to shot wide open usually 1/3 stop down is good for even for high quality primes.
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Yes I shoot my 24L II at f1.4 all the time, either f1.4 for close up portaits or f8 for landscapes.
70-200 II, yup, f2.8 all the time.
S50 would need to be stopped down to 1.8 to give good sharpness / contrast.
16-35 II is the 'dog' in my line up and when doing landscape I will use f11 and manual focus most of the time. Open up and the corner makes you go "ouch!"
70-200 II, yup, f2.8 all the time.
S50 would need to be stopped down to 1.8 to give good sharpness / contrast.
16-35 II is the 'dog' in my line up and when doing landscape I will use f11 and manual focus most of the time. Open up and the corner makes you go "ouch!"
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surapon
80% BY HEART, 15% BY LENSES AND ONLY 5% BY CAMERA
neuroanatomist said:
+1 for me too
Yes, I agree with my teacher Mr. neuroanatomist that " I shoot at the aperture I need for the DoF I want".
Yes, Depend on our Need and the Purpose of that single Photo. Yes, If I want to make the Background to support the main subject---Not Interfere , I just Open the F. Stop wide like 1.2 of 85 mm, MK II, Photos # #2 and # 3 ( The DOF will be very super Shallow)----But If I want to keep the total Sharp of subject such as human/ Model, I just use 2-3 Step down Such as 1.8 or 2.8 , Photo # 1, for to see what in the back ground just for the story teller. If I shoot the Scenery View, I try to use 8.0 up to 10.0 for the most of Sharp of DOF., If I want to get the star effected( with out Have the Stars filter in that time ), of shoot direct to the sun between the tree branch, I will set the F. Stop up to 16.0 or the smallest FD. Stop of that Lens.----Big BUT, If we use the small F. Stop beyond 11.0, We will suffer of Lens Diffraction, "Diffraction is a loss of sharpness or resolution caused by photographing with small f/stops"
Yes, Just the Theory, But I do not care, I will set the F. Stop as I need, Shoot 3-5 Photos at Difference F. Stop, And Select the Photos in the Big LCD. Computer screen.
Nice to talk to you, Sir.
Surapon
PS/. Photo # 1 = F = 2.8 ( 70-200 MK I)
Photo # 2. # 3 = F = 1.2 ( 85 mm MK II)
Photo # 4 F= 11.0 ( 100 MM L IS Macro)
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